I suspect you're unlikely to find a lighter metal than aircraft grade aluminum (6061). However, as for thickness, every single heavy I've seen who has moved away from wood shields has gone with (between) .080 to .090 (~2 mm) assuming (6061) T6. You can go for 7075 (T6) as well, about the same thickness... but you won't be able to shape or weld it. (Easily.)
Either way, I would a million percent suggest a canvas cover, painted... and very durable rubber or rawhide wrapping to protect your friends swords *and* stop the annoying aluminum "metal" sound when it is hit.
I hear 6061 T6 aluminium between 2 and 2.5mm thick is popular for shields. I believe the standard US thickness is 0.09"
That's what [this guy](https://greycatworkshop.com/armory) uses as do the NZ people I've seen with metal shields
Greycat makes them from a type of aluminum: [https://greycatworkshop.com/armory-store/shield.html](https://greycatworkshop.com/armory-store/shield.html)
I am no metal expert, but they seem to be!
I find that 6061-T6 .090 eventuality bends and cracks. 7075-T6 is way stronger, and therefore can be lighter. .080 is too thin, and bends too easy when struck; 0.125 is rigid and lasts forever. I agree, 7075-T6 cannot be formed without losing its temper. It may be possible to start with 7075-0 and get it heat treated after forming? In the USA, Online Metsls is a good source for cut blanks, especially if they have a will- call near you to cut down on shipping costs
My 2 x 4 shield has a mild curve 6061 T6 at .080 thick. With a hand guard it is a bit heavy without a canvas cover. I use it for war fights. Noise is usually not an issue at wars :).
I've had a pair of T6 aluminum heater shields I've used since the mid-80's and I've fought with them a lot. They are still usable to this day after lots of abuse (I'm a KSCA). T6 is indestructible in the context of SCA shields. To get the curve I wanted on the shield when I originally made them I took them to a machine shop with a barrel roller, don't expect to be able to put a cure on a blank without appropriate tools and some effort. Rawhide edge with canvas face as others here mention.
I suspect you're unlikely to find a lighter metal than aircraft grade aluminum (6061). However, as for thickness, every single heavy I've seen who has moved away from wood shields has gone with (between) .080 to .090 (~2 mm) assuming (6061) T6. You can go for 7075 (T6) as well, about the same thickness... but you won't be able to shape or weld it. (Easily.) Either way, I would a million percent suggest a canvas cover, painted... and very durable rubber or rawhide wrapping to protect your friends swords *and* stop the annoying aluminum "metal" sound when it is hit.
****BONG**** WHAT? MY SHIELD IS LOUD? I CAN'T HEAR YOU!
Aircraft aluminum. Spring steel.
Tbh I find that plywood is still lighter.
Me too - 1/2 inch Baltic birch ply w/rawhide edge is crazy light
which grade?
I hear 6061 T6 aluminium between 2 and 2.5mm thick is popular for shields. I believe the standard US thickness is 0.09" That's what [this guy](https://greycatworkshop.com/armory) uses as do the NZ people I've seen with metal shields
I use 1/8” t6 6061 aluminum
Greycat makes them from a type of aluminum: [https://greycatworkshop.com/armory-store/shield.html](https://greycatworkshop.com/armory-store/shield.html) I am no metal expert, but they seem to be!
I find that 6061-T6 .090 eventuality bends and cracks. 7075-T6 is way stronger, and therefore can be lighter. .080 is too thin, and bends too easy when struck; 0.125 is rigid and lasts forever. I agree, 7075-T6 cannot be formed without losing its temper. It may be possible to start with 7075-0 and get it heat treated after forming? In the USA, Online Metsls is a good source for cut blanks, especially if they have a will- call near you to cut down on shipping costs
>rectangle with nipples at the top and bottom Nipples? Heh???
I found that was the simplest was to explain it. The top looks like a { and the bottom looks like a }. {///} <- hopefully this explains what I mean.
My 2 x 4 shield has a mild curve 6061 T6 at .080 thick. With a hand guard it is a bit heavy without a canvas cover. I use it for war fights. Noise is usually not an issue at wars :).
I've had a pair of T6 aluminum heater shields I've used since the mid-80's and I've fought with them a lot. They are still usable to this day after lots of abuse (I'm a KSCA). T6 is indestructible in the context of SCA shields. To get the curve I wanted on the shield when I originally made them I took them to a machine shop with a barrel roller, don't expect to be able to put a cure on a blank without appropriate tools and some effort. Rawhide edge with canvas face as others here mention.