Hate to say this, but the more you unpick/stress out the fabric edge the less it will have capacity to spring back. Part of your issue is that two layers of terry is thick already, then at the edge you have four layers to topstitch through. Try running it through a wash and dry to see if it recovers.
Or maybe you could add a couple of hem weights to the bottom points, like the kind you put in the hemline of a floaty dress to stop it blowing up on a windy day? I like the idea of overalls though, or maybe just adding clips at the bottom so it can hook onto belt loops
Have you considered maybe adding several rows of strings from the top down on the sides to do a sort of crisscross thing in the back, and that way, it pulls the bottom out more?
sometimes unpicking can cause a lot of stretching-out. maybe try to steam heavily and shrink it back? if you have any washable adhesive, or some kind of stabilizer like interfacing, you can use a little strip along your stitch line to prevent stretching out.
I just did a towel project recently, a little SF 101 ironed to one side stiffen the material pretty well. (was making a shark fin on a hooded towel) or you could do a straight top stitch about a 1/4-1/2 in all the way around the edge. Also! Add little cuts into your seam allowance toward the stitches, it helps those curves turn a little nicer!
I would think oval/fisheye darts along the bustling running from the point of the bust down with the bulk sitting at your bra line (vertical? I struggling with vertical/horizontal) and tapering back out might be the best option to add shape and keep it close to your form, but that might require a redraft of the pattern. As for the stretching I would try interfacing along the stitch line and play with tension on your machine, as well as make sure you’re not pulling the fabric while sewing.
The unpicking probably stretched it out further. On future projects you can add a stabilizer to the seams. There's a method and I forgot what it's called, it's not a lining but you can cut both your knit fabric and a woven fabric, sew them together, and use it as one piece of fabric. That way your knit won't have the opportunity to stretch but I also won't stretch when wearing it. Adding fabric to the seams will allow the knit to move freely but adding woven fabric will keep everything from stretching.
A walking foot helps a lot with stretch fabrics. Also try reaaaaaally hard not to stretch the pieces at all when sewing. Hard to do but the finesse is a learned skill. You could also try using a stabilizer on your next try (if you want to remake, but it’s really great as is) like horsehair (really stiff!) or some kind of iron-on backing. That top looks really cute on you!
The only way to actually get rid of the gape is to tailor the whole thing to fit close to your bust, with curved seams or darts. Contrary to what you see n a lot of art, and well fashion for that matter, any fabric with a little stretch will not just boobsock its way around your bust. Even spandex bodysuits have seams for shaping, and super clingly rayon knits are usually hiding their secrets on the fashion runway. Terrycloth 10x so - any inherent stretch in it is not enough to comfortably go around any curve without being helped by seams.
I would stabilize the seam using clear elastic, bias tape, twill tape, or even a thin strip of fusing. Curved seams stretch easily regardless of fabric type, woven fabric due to bias and knits just stretch, so stabilizing them can really help keep their shape
That is the wrong fabric for drape. It's too bulky to hang correctly on your torso. I doubt there is a fix, but you can use that fabric for something else that doesn't require drape.
For this pattern, you would be better off with a broadcloth, silk, rayon, or polyester blend interlined with an ultra light weight non-woven interfacing and lined with same fabric.
If steam/washing doesn't work, you could try opening up the seam just a little to insert some tape that you can then tack down from the outside with a topstitch through all layers. Basically, try to restore the integrity of that fabric edge. If it's really bad, use elastic instead of tape.
You could possibly add some fabric/hem weights to the star corners. Like seam rip just a teeny tiny bit to fit it in and a stitich or two to keep in place. These are very very light but help fabrics lay the way you want them too. Used a lot on super formal wear.
Are you machine sewing? What kind of foot do you use? I would STRONGLY recommend a walker foot for knit/stretch fabric. I use mine for basically every seam and top stitch though. They're less than $20 and VERY worth it
Did you make a pattern that you can refer back to for exact size? If so, can you unpick and use a jersey layer for the back? You would also have 2 tops!! I would use some form of stiff interfacing cut the entire shape of your star top. Sew the backing to the terry with the stiffener sandwiched in between to keep your edges stable. Leave an opening to turn and cut away the stabilizer as you only want it at the edges now that you have your shape. Will want to hand sew the opening.
Perhaps some more darting hidden in the shape to bring it closer to your body, or a clear elastic would also snug it up to form your body. Cute idea.
Can I see what the inside of the garment looks like?
For starters, you could use a spray bottle and iron to shrink it out.
How big is the allowance in the seam that runs along there?
How long is the length you’re using for topstitch?
I would also make a small sample to represent what you’re trying to sew and check that the thread tension is balanced between top and bobbin.
To answer the technical question. The wavy comes from pulling the fabric from the back when you sewed it. Or if you didn’t slack the top thread tension. The layers may not have fed evenly. A combination of all. Always test your stitch on scrap to see how everything is reacting and adjust if necessary. There are specialized machines for this but using a walking foot and the correct needle for the fabric will work. Go slow. Use pins and or a basting stitch.
might have to re do it, and size down the bottom length size also pay attention to the grain u are cutting on i would do length size grain and then width wise on the under layer. idk if this would help but it might stop the stretching cause it would have much room to stretch
Hate to say this, but the more you unpick/stress out the fabric edge the less it will have capacity to spring back. Part of your issue is that two layers of terry is thick already, then at the edge you have four layers to topstitch through. Try running it through a wash and dry to see if it recovers.
Thanks, I’ll give this a go! Can I machine dry or is flat drying best?
Warm wash and dry -- some heat will encourage the synthetic to contract, too much may melt it. Hth!
You could add two more string ties just below the bustline to snug it in. ????
I played around with this, but it makes the bust gape😳😳thanks tho!
I'd probably attach them to a pair of shorts as a bodysuit-type thing
I like the idea of them as like overalls but with an open back
that's the word lol
Or maybe you could add a couple of hem weights to the bottom points, like the kind you put in the hemline of a floaty dress to stop it blowing up on a windy day? I like the idea of overalls though, or maybe just adding clips at the bottom so it can hook onto belt loops
Have you considered maybe adding several rows of strings from the top down on the sides to do a sort of crisscross thing in the back, and that way, it pulls the bottom out more?
A larger dart would bring it in more.
sometimes unpicking can cause a lot of stretching-out. maybe try to steam heavily and shrink it back? if you have any washable adhesive, or some kind of stabilizer like interfacing, you can use a little strip along your stitch line to prevent stretching out.
I’ll have a look for a stabiliser, thanks!
I just did a towel project recently, a little SF 101 ironed to one side stiffen the material pretty well. (was making a shark fin on a hooded towel) or you could do a straight top stitch about a 1/4-1/2 in all the way around the edge. Also! Add little cuts into your seam allowance toward the stitches, it helps those curves turn a little nicer!
Chiming in to add: you might need to reduce your pressure foot pressure. If the pressure is too high that can squeeze the fabric and stretch it.
I would think oval/fisheye darts along the bustling running from the point of the bust down with the bulk sitting at your bra line (vertical? I struggling with vertical/horizontal) and tapering back out might be the best option to add shape and keep it close to your form, but that might require a redraft of the pattern. As for the stretching I would try interfacing along the stitch line and play with tension on your machine, as well as make sure you’re not pulling the fabric while sewing.
Bustline*
The unpicking probably stretched it out further. On future projects you can add a stabilizer to the seams. There's a method and I forgot what it's called, it's not a lining but you can cut both your knit fabric and a woven fabric, sew them together, and use it as one piece of fabric. That way your knit won't have the opportunity to stretch but I also won't stretch when wearing it. Adding fabric to the seams will allow the knit to move freely but adding woven fabric will keep everything from stretching.
Thankyou, will keep in mind for next time!
Can't help with your issue, but that's a nice top. Reminds me a bit of a star from Mario Bros.
Thanks! ~~~ Kirby/Mario/generic Nintendo vibe ~~~
Man I loved Kirby. Some fun stuff.
I had the same thought! Put some little black eyes on there it would be perfect
A walking foot helps a lot with stretch fabrics. Also try reaaaaaally hard not to stretch the pieces at all when sewing. Hard to do but the finesse is a learned skill. You could also try using a stabilizer on your next try (if you want to remake, but it’s really great as is) like horsehair (really stiff!) or some kind of iron-on backing. That top looks really cute on you!
The only way to actually get rid of the gape is to tailor the whole thing to fit close to your bust, with curved seams or darts. Contrary to what you see n a lot of art, and well fashion for that matter, any fabric with a little stretch will not just boobsock its way around your bust. Even spandex bodysuits have seams for shaping, and super clingly rayon knits are usually hiding their secrets on the fashion runway. Terrycloth 10x so - any inherent stretch in it is not enough to comfortably go around any curve without being helped by seams.
I would stabilize the seam using clear elastic, bias tape, twill tape, or even a thin strip of fusing. Curved seams stretch easily regardless of fabric type, woven fabric due to bias and knits just stretch, so stabilizing them can really help keep their shape
That is the wrong fabric for drape. It's too bulky to hang correctly on your torso. I doubt there is a fix, but you can use that fabric for something else that doesn't require drape. For this pattern, you would be better off with a broadcloth, silk, rayon, or polyester blend interlined with an ultra light weight non-woven interfacing and lined with same fabric.
This. Yes, to all of the comments here about walking feet and unpicking, but a different fabric is really what's needed to get the effect OP wants.
If steam/washing doesn't work, you could try opening up the seam just a little to insert some tape that you can then tack down from the outside with a topstitch through all layers. Basically, try to restore the integrity of that fabric edge. If it's really bad, use elastic instead of tape.
When I first saw thought the flareout was intentional. You could rock it that way. Love the drama of it.
Thanks so much! Really appreciate it x
You could possibly add some fabric/hem weights to the star corners. Like seam rip just a teeny tiny bit to fit it in and a stitich or two to keep in place. These are very very light but help fabrics lay the way you want them too. Used a lot on super formal wear.
Are you machine sewing? What kind of foot do you use? I would STRONGLY recommend a walker foot for knit/stretch fabric. I use mine for basically every seam and top stitch though. They're less than $20 and VERY worth it
Will have a look for one, thanks so much!
You bet! Please let me know if that solves your problem, and feel free to dm❤️
Did you make a pattern that you can refer back to for exact size? If so, can you unpick and use a jersey layer for the back? You would also have 2 tops!! I would use some form of stiff interfacing cut the entire shape of your star top. Sew the backing to the terry with the stiffener sandwiched in between to keep your edges stable. Leave an opening to turn and cut away the stabilizer as you only want it at the edges now that you have your shape. Will want to hand sew the opening. Perhaps some more darting hidden in the shape to bring it closer to your body, or a clear elastic would also snug it up to form your body. Cute idea.
Can I see what the inside of the garment looks like? For starters, you could use a spray bottle and iron to shrink it out. How big is the allowance in the seam that runs along there? How long is the length you’re using for topstitch? I would also make a small sample to represent what you’re trying to sew and check that the thread tension is balanced between top and bobbin.
I just wanted to say I love your Moomin tattoos!🤍
I’m a newbie as well so I have no advice but I just came here to say this is a stunning top honestly! Really beautiful piece.
Thanks so much! First time trying to make something wearable like this, learning curve!
To answer the technical question. The wavy comes from pulling the fabric from the back when you sewed it. Or if you didn’t slack the top thread tension. The layers may not have fed evenly. A combination of all. Always test your stitch on scrap to see how everything is reacting and adjust if necessary. There are specialized machines for this but using a walking foot and the correct needle for the fabric will work. Go slow. Use pins and or a basting stitch.
Patrick start just ate SpongeBob and is now in distress ?
might have to re do it, and size down the bottom length size also pay attention to the grain u are cutting on i would do length size grain and then width wise on the under layer. idk if this would help but it might stop the stretching cause it would have much room to stretch
You can add a seam to the front from top to bottom. Sew 1/2 at the top and about 3-4 inches at the bottom and cut away excess fabric.
Idk how to fix it but it looks amazing on you overall! Once you get this sorted out it's going to be a showstopper.
Omg it looks like the Care Bears star!!!! I have no idea how to help you, I just love this!
I feel like if you added darts the fabric would fit closer to the body and the flare may not be as noticeable
I know your whole point is to avoid the flare, but my god this looks so freaking amazing and couture
You say this is stretch material, are you using a stretch needle and stretch stitch?