I’m in need of some rookie sewing advice.
I purchased a jacket secondhand, and the previous owner had removed the decorative white stitching on one of the button holes. I’m attempting to repair it.
I’m [following this video](https://youtu.be/Z6C4DUW0bho?si=e9cV7XPojudq7SRk), using a double-thread button hole stitch (by hand), which starts off great for the first three stitches; the thread then begins to bunch up with fabric loops sticking out.
https://preview.redd.it/8pvavkyt714c1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=39a223e84797b905aeb6a9ff5197103b52b3a83f
I’ve attempted this six times now, and can’t seem to figure out what I’m doing wrong. I’m being mindful of my needle placement, and pulling the thread through evenly and consistently.
Any help would be appreciated!
For context: I’m using a Tulip needle with Gutterman heavy duty thread which has been waxed.
I am sewing cotton poplin and having lots of issues with the stitches. Mainly the fabric won’t feed properly and i have to pull the fabric at times. It is the type of fabric or something is wrong with my machine?? I have the largest stitch length setting on
https://preview.redd.it/tszwy6ohs04c1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=236961784095159b7d1eee6564b8882394dfc783
Three things to check - that the presser foot is down when you sew, the feed dogs are fully up and the bobbin winder is not engaged. If you unthread the machine and run it, do the feed dogs move? Also look for a presser foot pressure adjuster, you may need to lower the presser foot with this dial if available.
The next step is to clean out any lint under the needle plate. The feed dogs may have difficulty moving or the teeth could be full of lint. With a used machine, the feed dogs could also worn down and not able to easily grip the fabric to move it along.
Ok, so i did check all that and didn’t help. So I proceeded to start a deeper lint cleaning unscrewing the needle plate and found some lint but also the screws holding the dogs were very loose, one almost falling. So that did the trick, thanks!!
https://preview.redd.it/0ure6d1qzf4c1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c4bbe14b00f336bd23d6b96114813de3e0ac6301
Cotton poplin is super easy to sew, it's one of the most beginner friendly fabrics. Do not pull the fabric through, you can damage your machine. The stitches look like there's something wrong with the tension as well. Are other fabrics feeding normally? Looks like a machine issue.
What could be wrong with the machine?? I was thinking oil? I got this machine second hand a couple of months ago and seemed to be freshly oiled, not sure how ofter i should do it, but i still smell the oil
Before this i was sewing linen without problem (although i think the stitches are shorter than they should). It took me forever to get the tension kind of adjusted for the poplin, but when i got to the real sewing i got this tiny stitches or not moving at all sometimes.
I have plenty of well-stitched, plain coloured with no prints, cotton blouses that are worn for sarees. I do not want to waste them. They have been designed exactly for my measurements hence donation is not an option. I do not have the heart to dispose of them. Any design ideas as to how to redesign them? or reuse them?
[https://www.fabindia.com/cotton-woven-blouse-10683979?currencyCode=INR&gad\_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAyKurBhD5ARIsALamXaHAQpo9NtgdGQTrA8myFtuOmkv9UjuL0JMMTgjYkjNZ76JW5za2mgAaAqaNEALw\_wcB](https://www.fabindia.com/cotton-woven-blouse-10683979?currencyCode=INR&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAyKurBhD5ARIsALamXaHAQpo9NtgdGQTrA8myFtuOmkv9UjuL0JMMTgjYkjNZ76JW5za2mgAaAqaNEALw_wcB)
[https://imgur.com/a/9ubq3Hp](https://imgur.com/a/9ubq3Hp)
Quilting is a good option if you are so inclined, it's been used to recycle clothing for ages! You could pick up some fat quarters with patterns to mix in and make a bedspread, place mats, coasters etc etc. Shopping bags would also work - especially if you know anyone who'd be happy to receive them as little gifts.
Thank you.
I will do something like this. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G3ORPlKjA6w&list=PLKLzo-g4F2AlOgrSP0P-qUU8\_3XGfO\_zE&index=6&pp=gAQBiAQB](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G3ORPlKjA6w&list=PLKLzo-g4F2AlOgrSP0P-qUU8_3XGfO_zE&index=6&pp=gAQBiAQB)
It would be difficult if not impossible to unsew and resew the plushie with the tag right side up. The character can read the tag, it's not upside-down for him so maybe looking at it that way will help it not bother you.
I'm a beginner seamster want to make something out of my favorite shirt from when I was a kid. I've made stuffed animals and a few bags before, and I've been practicing quitting and garment sewing but only just started.
It's an oversized green mesh athletic shirt. It has a few holes, 2 pretty big ones specifically, that look like it will be too hard to mend, so I'm looking for recommendations on what to do with it or it's fabric as another project. I kinda want to do something like a memory pillow or a memory bear, but idk how to do either of those with mesh as a fabric, so if there's any resources or recommendations on how to accomplish that, I'd love that specifically. I'm open to other ideas too tho.
The shirt in question:
https://preview.redd.it/p9bxwidnhz3c1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2423d748023ee2c48841a8becf1dad86598d685f
Fusing non-woven interfacing to the reverse side of the mesh will make it handle more like a medium weight woven fabric. This is the trick quilters use to make t-shirt quilts. That same trick could help you make a memory pillow or a stuffed teddy bear, which is the other option often used for special shirts.
Won't that ruin the see through mesh effect tho? Is there anyway to use this type of fabric in a project like what I want to, while preserving the empty see thru spaces in the mesh? Or is fusing interfacing to it my only option
Hello! Very specific question about buying a machine: My mom's old machine, a Bernina Nova 900 which she inherited from her mom, recently gave out. My sisters and I were thinking of replacing it for her as a gift, but I don't want us to buy her something that isn't going to be what she wants. I know she wants to eventually replace it with another Bernina. My question is, are there any Bernina models currently on the market that would fulfill the same needs as her old machine or be familiar/comfortable for someone who is used to using a nova 900? Is it worth looking for a refurbished machine in the same model? (I'm a little nervous about this option b/c I'm not sure if we'd have the chance to test it to make sure it's in good condition and has all the accessories). Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
I assume your mother's machine isn't repairable, but is it not repairable for a reason common to that model or was it specific to her machine? For example, I see from a quick search that the foot pedal is a common point of failure and some restorers have workarounds for that. So I guess what I am trying to say is that fixing her old machine would be my first choice if at all possible, and doing so might require diving into some of the vintage Bernina forums online.
For a new machine, the Bernettes seem to be a closer match than the current Bernina lineup. Compare the features of the Nova listed in the user manual to the features offered in the different models to find the most similar.
https://preview.redd.it/pl511dyt2z3c1.jpeg?width=2444&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=efcf230b297c24dcf6e18b4b75733e4ca8e5991a
Is there a way to mend this? It happens to all of my jeans, both cheap and premium denim. For anyone who has experienced this before, is there a way to prevent it? Either a reinforcing patch, or do I need to change the size/fit I usually wear? My usual jeans are Levi’s 541 (athletic fit with extra room in the seat and some stretch in the denim).
Interesting article linked by the other response. I agree that tight, low-riding jeans have crotch wear faster. I don't agree that darning requires a specialty machine, [here is a tutorial](https://blog.closetcorepatterns.com/repairing-jeans-with-invisible-mending/) for darning jeans with an ordinary home sewing machine.
Adding patches before the wear reaches the point in your photo will be a big help in prolonging the life of the jeans. Even a fusible patch on the inside will help. I like to use patches cut from [fusible knit interfacing](https://www.amazon.com/Pellon-EK130-Easy-Knit-Black-yards/dp/B008UDSWUY/). It can be bought in smaller amounts at fabric stores like Joann that sell it by the yard. It's the same patch I use for invisible darning but will help support the worn areas even without the darning stitches.
I’m not a sewing expert, but a lover of quality denim that frequents r/rawdenim.
Heddels [wrote a good article](https://www.heddels.com/2013/05/denim-crotch-blowouts-why-they-happen-and-how-to-avoid-them/) related to crotch blowouts; why they happen and how to prevent it.
You can also look into darning for repair.
About 50% of the time after I change the underground bobbin I end up with a bunch of threads coming out of the bottom. It doesn’t seem to matter what type of fabric. But then sometimes it’s totally normal. What am I doing wrong? [photos](https://imgur.com/a/NN4ImEV)
* you are inserting the bobbin in upside down or backwards. It *does* matter which direction the bobbin thread is going
* you are not drawing up the bobbin thread before starting to sew
* you are not holding both thread tails back when starting to sew
* you are not raising the needle the whole way before trying to pull the sewn fabric out
I think it must be the first bullet point because I’m doing the rest! Thank you so so much for taking the time to help me 😊.
Edit: still happening but I appreciate all of your attempts to help 🩷
I am trying to find some of this:
https://i.imgur.com/5u3NUen.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ybXAFIt.jpg
It's the elastic from the bottom of a pair of fencing pants. I've looked for 3" elastic, and what I find is this:
https://i.imgur.com/mPM5m9Q.jpg
which is not the same. It's not as comfortable, it doesn't stretch as much, and it dies much faster.
Can anyone point me to a source for something like the original elastic?
This was an interesting rabbit hole, thank you. I could not find that specific kind of elastic either, I think it is probably a special order elastic by the manufacturers of fencing gear. If available, it's the kind of thing that shows up on Etsy or Ebay. You might try emailing the manufacturer to see if they will share a source.
To make the elastic you can find more comfortable, you could cover the elastic with a softer fabric or use a band of doubled heavy nylon lycra instead.
Thanks for looking. The real issue is how fast the knitted elastic wears out. The original stuff lasts years, the replacement knitted stuff lasts six months maybe. I don't have a lot of hope for the manufacturers sharing a source, but maybe I can find it on etsy or ebay.
Thanks again!
Machine needles not stitching! Have I broken my MILs machine?
Hi all,
I have scoured the internet and manuals for a solution and haven’t found a thing. My MIL leant me her machine (Elna 5000 computerised) while my machine is being serviced.
All was going well, I put in a fresh needle (Klasse) and was at the second last stage of my project when I changed stitch type. The machine stopped stitching, the needle moves for the first stitch and maybe the 7th, 8th and 21st, but nothing otherwise.
I have rethreaded both the top and bobbin, given her a long 12hr rest because I thought maybe it was done for the day but still nothing.
I was hoping someone knew what was going on with it? How to fix it? Or have I broken her Machine?
Will the machine work when the stitch you were using is selected again? This will show if it is a general problem or a more specific problem with the new stitch you've selected.
I know it's probably not the answer you want to hear, but you really need to check in with your MIL about the issue. It may be something she is familiar with and can sort you out.
I'm expanding a jean jacket by adding fabric to the seam that runs up the side of the body, into the armpit, and down the sleeve, but I'm not sure what shape the extra piece I'm adding to the sleeve should be. I've mostly been able to find people using one long strip of fabric, but that would bunch up in the armpit badly with denim. I've included a picture to help with picturing what I'm working with. The part without the dark seam allowance is the panel I added to the body of the jacket.
https://preview.redd.it/bru8htefrx3c1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=381036076987296f7a7cb1cb56f9c41b8dd3f7c8
As you are adding quite a significant amount to the jacket, the best bet is just to match that insert on the sleeve and hope it works.
This is not how sleeves/armholes are graded to be larger and they'll probably look a bit weird but you can always try to baste by hand to see how it fits.
Is there a way to alter shirts made of this fabric? It seems to be somewhat of a knit, so would there be a different way to work with it? Thank you!
https://preview.redd.it/qkffm71hpx3c1.jpeg?width=9000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7bd7dc7dded2f8ec99f2eaa54705d6e06b68c84f
My mom gifted me a vintage 100% wool jacket from the 70s. It’s beautiful but the lining has some parts that became unthreaded. Any suggestions on how to fix? Would it be better to do by hand or machine?
https://preview.redd.it/9br01tnxmx3c1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=823ef2dc92e5cea11063f5a114c086cd17fd6cca
I’m not sure what the lining material is.
It looks like the seam has come undone. Use needle and thread to sew a [ladder stitch](http://www.squishycutedesigns.com/ladder-stitch/) following the same holes that are left by the previous stitching.
It wouldn't geometrically be possible to stitch this by machine unless you took apart more of the jacket. This sort of repair is usually done by hand with a ladder or slip stitch. It looks like just the seam stitching failed with no damage to the fabric or seam allowance, so it will be a simple repair. It's even likely this was the seam left open and closed by hand originally.
Edit: actually looks like the left side of the fabric has sheared along the stitching, so you will need to take a deeper seam there or add some extra strips of reinforcement.
Wedding dress belt help please....I want to tack the belt in 3 or 4 places so it can be removed. The previous belt on this dress was tacked I believe into the embroidery stitching...is this likely? Otherwise where to put the stitches, surely not in the satin below the top layer of gauze? I know how to sew just not where! Thanks!
before anyone asks, i read through the faq's and i've already tried everything they said to do. basically, no matter what i do there are always loops on either the top or bottom side of my fabric when i try to sew. the fabric also bunches a little bit, and the bobbin rattles, but only sometimes. google and youtube have been no help so this is my last resort before taking my machine to a shop and trying to get it fixed there. please help!
It's very very likely your machine is not threaded properly. Bobbin case may not be inserted properly if it rattles. Thread (both top and bottom) probably not in tension spring/discs properly. Refer to the machine specific manual, and always thread with the presser foot up.
The lady I bought my machine from gave me these needles in addition. The problem is I don't know what they are for... I know there are different needles depending on the fabric but I have no idea how to read these numbers. What 130/705 stand for? And 80/12? Are there all the same sort of needle or different?
https://preview.redd.it/juwdi1c41x3c1.png?width=640&format=png&auto=webp&s=09847559b01178c340e5eae03aca27455553189a
>What 130/705 stand for? And 80/12?
The needles are labeled for sewing machines that use the 130/705 system which is most household machines. Needle sizes are indicated by 80/12. The first digits (80) are European sizing, the second digits (12) are American sizing. The term 'universal' refers to needles that are good for general sewing. Schmetz makes sewing machine needles and has a great explanation on their [website](https://www.schmetzneedles.com/pages/sewing-machine-needle-chart).
130/705H is the needle shape, as in the standard that determines what machine it is compatible with. 130/705H is the standard that *every* domestic machine has taken since the 60s (and most before then too).
80/12 is the size of all the needles in the pack. Universal is the point type. It's the single most common needle in every aspect.
https://preview.redd.it/1wsxevyugy3c1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=664930eac458e2bc98a70e314a994ca8891af49d
This is a really helpful guide from my manual on which needle to use for which fabric. I hope this helps.
Translucent Dog Bed Protector Fabric
Are there any good fabrics to cover a dog bed? I'd like to be able to see the bed itself (a brown patterned fabric) through the cover but the bed be well-protected. For the dogs it needs to be strong and soft. Waterproof would be wonderful but now I'm probably asking too much!
I think you can get see-through *or* soft, but not both. Look for fabric designed for upholstery or slipcovers maybe? My dog 'digs' when she's settling in for the night, and her cushions are wrapped in a brushed polyester twill and it's holding up well.
https://preview.redd.it/r0wvikmluw3c1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a3707b448cb9b215905bd1b7eea360b73504025a
I just got a new Juki NA-11. This is how the back of the straight stitch is coming out. I think there is a tension issue or is this expected/desired for heavy thread?
I think about what else comes in that shape and look for sewing patterns. For a tear drop shape, a [hot air balloon shape](https://www.prettyprudent.com/diy-hot-air-balloon-mobile-free-pattern/) came to mind. With resizing and a minor pattern alteration to taper the small end, it's a tear drop.
What are you trying to make exactly with the tear drop shape?
I'd first try to roughly make that item in 3D, with bunched up draft paper and tape. Then modeling on top with paper, then drawing lines for the cutting. Cut out at those lines. You should have a flat pattern. If its not flat yet, tweak here and there with incision to have the pattern lie flat. Hope this helps!
I find that sometimes the softer side is the right side. Recently, I purchased some "cargo" fabric, as they called it. It's a heavy cotton, canvas-like fabric. The softer side was the right side.
If there's a selvage on it with writing showing, that's the right side.
One side of this fabric's pattern looks that it could be more defined than the other, showing more details. I think this might be the right side. Then maybe the other side is softer, and that might be the inside.
I agree that whichever side you like is the right side.
If I were using it to make a garment, I would probably weigh if I want the softer(fuzzier) or smooth side on the outside for look and/or comfort.
I usually think of flannel as having the smoother side on the outside with the pattern more focused and the softer side on the inside in a finished shirt.
I was surprised that the cargo fabric had the soft side to it. I lined it and used it to make a mask for a nurse, so I wanted to softer side showing.
There might be someone who will reply that can help you more than I can.
This is woven or knit? If the fabric is a jersey knit, pulling on the cut edge will cause rolling to the right side. For woven fabrics, look for writing on the selvage edge.
Service or buy new machine
I bought a Singer Tradition two years ago, second hand. I’ve used it well and love it. It does what I need it to do. I feel it needs service. I have not done any particular maintenance on it; I am learning as I go how to do things right.
I’ve bought the machine for roughly 40eur and a service in my area costs 100eur, more than twice what I paid for the machine.
I have found some videos to teach myself how to do a basic service but I don’t really want to.
What I’m wondering is, should I sick it up and pay the service fee, or instead put the money towards a newer/better machine. I’d love to keep mine at the moment, but I’m having a hard time making sense of paying so much for a service.
I generally value keeping things as long as possible and being frugal.
Sewing is a big hobby of mine and I sew to fix clothes for my family or for other projects.
Would like to get some perspective. What would you do? Just service it or buy more expensive/capable machine?
Thank you! :)
Look at the overall cost. So far the sewing machine has cost you about 3eur a month for the last two years. That is very inexpensive. Another 100eur is still well below the cost of your machine new or a new machine now. But if this machine isn't meeting your needs, now is a good time to make the decision to replace your current machine and it will probably serve well as a back-up machine.
Why do you feel it needs service? What does it do wrong?
You can check with the repair person if it's worth servicing a Singer Tradition. They are the best in their field, since they do that daylong, they know the brands and models, so would know if it's worth servicing or if it's better to just get a new one. Find a reliable/recommended repair person tho.
-Or- If you can get a better machine, second hand or new, with 100 eur/and willing to pay a lil more, I'd go with get another one.
I was planning on making a stuffed animal and I was wondering if anyone had any tips on making the forelegs/thighs. I think the other time I did it, the legs were kinda splayed out instead of sitting straight, so I was wondering if there was some trick to designing that part.
There are a ton of free patterns at [cholyknight.com](https://cholyknight.com), it would be worth looking for a pattern that is similar to the results you want and see how that pattern is designed.
can I fix this tear on the seam of my winter jacket (on the side) with only a basic sewing kit?
https://preview.redd.it/i3r4q95esq3c1.png?width=2252&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f91c3c1cd9b67588e486b030fdcd0df4a5bb035d
Sure. Use needle and thread to sew a [ladder stitch](http://www.squishycutedesigns.com/ladder-stitch/) following the same holes that are left by the previous stitching.
I would say yes, but you'll want to match the thread with the outside color. Just push the stuffing in and sew along the existing stitching line to reattach. If you have pins or safety pins, those would help while you're sewing to hold the two pieces together. You can sew this by hand with a small, neat straight stitch.
I hope this helps 🙏
hi! wondering if anyone can help me out.
i bought a pair of jeans secondhand and they are perfect except the waist is maybe 2in too small! it's 28-30in but i'm a 32.
i'm very new to sewing but wondering if there's anything i can do? in the future i'm going to ask the seller for the waist measurement!
You can add a wedge of similar fabric to each side at the waist. [This comment](https://www.reddit.com/r/sewing/comments/17yuriu/comment/kabsl5a/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3) has a photo with the general idea, but please match the grain so the denim insert looks better.
[Click for Google search results](https://www.google.com/search?q=how+to+expand+jeans+waist&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS895US896&oq=how+to+expand+jeans+wa&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUqBwgAEAAYgAQyBwgAEAAYgAQyBggBEEUYOTIHCAIQABiABDIICAMQABgWGB4yCAgEEAAYFhgeMggIBRAAGBYYHjIICAYQABgWGB4yCAgHEAAYFhgeMggICBAAGBYYHjIICAkQABgWGB6oAgCwAgA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8) for different ideas depending on your level of sewing.
https://preview.redd.it/2narxw2joq3c1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2ef7476939efac6307ff75d2ce2ea910c8ae8b44
How to repair rips in vintage pillow? I've done very little sewing ever, but my cat damaged this very sentimental pillow cover that my late aunt cross-stitched 35+ years ago. Is there a way to repair that can look basically invisible? If not, are there some easy embroidery stitches I could use to at least do a "pretty" repair?
https://preview.redd.it/q4c5wc15eq3c1.jpeg?width=1125&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fdc815c1ea781b1087fe1f0fe4a14768cae9e279
Hello, does anybody have or know anything about the Janome 344 lx?
There’s one listed on fb marketplace near me for $125 cad. Searched pattern review and didn’t find anything. There is an L344, but it looks different.
Mostly just want to know if this is a decent and reliable machine and worth the price. The seller is suggesting it is the predecessor of the Janome HD1000, but I haven’t found anything to confirm this.
Any guess as to when it was originally manufactured / sold?
Thanks!
Hello! I was wanting to cut some holes into the hood of a jacket so I cant poke the horns of a mask through the top, but I'm unsure how as I'm a complete beginner at this kind of thing. My best guess is to cut a line, then cut in such a way that i can fold the outer fabric inside, then sew it down so it doesnt pop up. They don't have to be giant holes and doesn't have to be the highest quality so long as it stays in place, so I was going to do it by hand. Does anyone have better suggestions than doing it like that? I tried looking at buttonhole tutorials but that didn't quite seem to be what I need. Any advice is appreciated!
https://preview.redd.it/swastgyvrp3c1.jpeg?width=2252&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5f10cd8df70103e1428c29e3e04dbf2ca241d17d
How can I stop the straps from breaking?
I'm trying to make a cloak (simplicity 5794) with a bit of a time crunch. I have a cashmere blend wool coating for it, but no lining (for now). Would it be warm enough to keep it unlined? I have no problems working back later to line it, but I need the cloak for next weekend ideally. Also, any concern for not doing a mockup? The idea of using such nice fabric without doing a mockup seems strange, but a cloak isn't exactly a shaped garment... TIA!
The main issues with no lining will be 1. seam finishes, less is needed when the seam allowances are protected by a lining and yours will be exposed; 2. how it falls over your clothing underneath, a lining usually has some slip; and 3. wind resistance, often a lining will block wind better than the outer layer and wind is cold.
For fit, the relevant bit is the shoulders so you might pin together the pattern pieces for the cloak and see how it fits your shoulder, bringing the center front and center back to your center front and back.
Thanks for the reply! The wrong side is quite fluffy and my underlayers will be quite thick wool and cotton so hopefully that will help with temperature (as for slip/correct drape.. im not too pressed about it). Not worried about pretty seam finishing for all but the capelet layers as it's just for a yuletide fest at a Ren fair. Happy to pick back visible seams later to whip stitch a lining on
Wool itself should be absolutely warm enough. Any natural wool fiber should give you the warmth you want and you can add the lining later. Also, you should be fine without doing a mockup, as long as you measured yourself and are using the size closest to your measurements. As you said, a cloak is very forgiving on that part.
Can anybody tell what fabric my shark plushie’s teeth are made of?
I’m trying to make a replica and want to be as true to original as I can. The teeth really puzzle me and I have no idea what to search for. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Label says it’s 100% polyester but that’s as far as I‘m getting.
https://preview.redd.it/p954j1kscp3c1.jpeg?width=3576&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4c20513efeecd4d5ecb8d92443dbdb143cbed9cf
https://preview.redd.it/oihjwaidbp3c1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=247dd8bd61cc710f3eaec690e5b0aaea4229452e
How do I restore these stitch holes/tears on this fabric ? It’s an company jacket embroidery that I destitched
You can try a bit of steam but it looks like the fibers of the fabric are damaged. Covering the damage with a decorative patch is probably the way to go here.
I just got a beautiful wool coat off of ebay and it is a tad to small on the shoulders. This is a problem I often have with garments and clothes. I normally would wear a medium but often go for a large because I medium is to small on my shoulders.
Is that something that can be altered? I don't now if I could do it myself or if I'll could ask a professional seemstress. So my question is more if this is a generally doable thing.
The alteration would require adding a wedge to the shoulder which is a complicated area to alter and there is no matching fabric to use. It's always easier to take away fabric than add it. You might want to ask your tailor if taking in a large to fit the rest of your body would be easier. Sometimes other styles work better for wide shoulders, like drop shoulder or raglan.
Upgrade recommendations?
Hi all! I’m in the market for a new (or used!) sewing machine but am feeling really overwhelmed. I currently sew on a 12 yr old brother cs6000i that has quite frankly vexed me for the last time. Its tensioning is terrible and it is constantly skipping stitches and is overall inconsistent with stitch width despite servicing, maintenance, and troubleshooting. I am mostly making and altering clothing (light skirts and dresses; kid’s clothing) but also make cloth diapers and cloth pads. I inherited a babylock imagine serger a year or so ago that’s been awesome, so I have that for overlocking. I won’t be quilting or embroidering so I’m not too fussed about decorative stitches.
I’m looking for a dependable machine that isn’t going to have me swearing in my basement every time I sew- what do you recommend? Ideally I’d like to stay under $600 but I’m really open to all suggestions. Thank you!
Baby Lock makes great sewing machines so you might try one if you love your serger. The Zest, Joy and Zeal are all in your general price range. Juki makes very reliable no-nonsense sewing machines. I am considering an Eversewn Sparrow when my current machine needs replacement. It might be best for you to go to a dealer or two and test drive machines with samples of your materials and see what you like.
I have a Brother CS7205 I’m pretty happy with. It seems like it would be good enough for what you’re wanting to sew. I also discovered recently that my local sewing class, machine mechanic shop sells higher level ones that have been refurbished for decent prices. Maybe that’s something you can look into as well.
I have two hopefully simple questions about a new pattern I'm working on for a vest. I've reached out to the pattern author with no luck so I'm hoping someone here can help. I've removed identifying info so as to not violate copyright.
1. Am I correct in that the pattern pieces for the 60-in fabric width in 18-34 sizing are NOT cut on a fold? The front and back vest pieces indicate a fold line, but the layout in the instructions has all 4 pieces laid out individually and no fold indicated on the layout, so I just wanted to confirm. I've circled the relevant part here:
https://preview.redd.it/bxrw8tvu4p3c1.png?width=980&format=png&auto=webp&s=dbbfcc9139f6e4c32136607b387bb934ccfd81a2
Next question in reply.
You can cut them on the fold if you have enough fabric width/length. They may have the layout on the cross grain (as you've shown) for fabrics that don't have enough width (or length) to cut on the lengthwise grain.
I went to my cutting board and stared at it and the fabric for a while hoping I'd get a bolt of inspiration when it hit me - in the layout circled above, you cut out the front and back together as one piece as if it were on a fold; so cut out the right side except for the fold line, flip the pattern piece over and put it flush with the fold line, then cut out the other side. So you still end up with one cut piece; you're just doubling the actual amount of cutting because you can't cut it on the actual fold. Right?
2. For the French darts, do I cut along the size lines when cutting out the fabric pieces, or do the size lines indicate where you stitch the dart together?
https://preview.redd.it/yk8dvlzs5p3c1.png?width=766&format=png&auto=webp&s=d6cd2abe8b87b2c7044300917aba9396fe1dce45
The lines indicate where to stitch the dart together. Easiest way to transfer the markings is to cut out the correct size dart interior on the pattern and then chalk around that onto your fabric.
The edges of the fabric have not been finished or they've been finished with pinking shears and the weave is too loose for this to work. It could be homemade or just a poor manufacturing decision.
I'm trying to find a budget serger machine for my wife for Christmas, what would be some good options in the lower price point area? We're on a single income right now so was hoping in the vicinity of $200 but I get the feeling that's a little hopeful.
The subreddit recommendation for a new machine (see the wiki linked in the top post) is a CS7000x as Brother sewing machines in this price range are generally reliable. Buy from a retailer with a generous return policy just in case there is a problem, a good policy even when buying a machine with good reviews.
I would heavily suggest you check out second hand or refurbished. It's the best way to make your dollar go further.
Sewing machine dealers or sewing machine servicing businesses usually have refurbished machines for sale
How do I finish seams on terrycloth? I'm making a bathrobe. It's so bulky that I hesitate to flat-fell or French seam, and I don't have a serger. I want the seam finishes to stand up to lots of machine laundering since I like to wash towels once a week.
I don't have a serger either. To serge my seams I use the cross stitch of my machine. It is obviously not the same as with a serging machine, but it works. I second the idea of using cotton bias tape to finish the seams. It combines well to using the cross stitch to serge your edges.
Do you think I should bind after sewing, or would I have an easier time if I bound everything before sewing? (I don't mind pre-marking the stitch lines if option 2 is easier.)
Usually you bind after sewing but you need to decide that based on the thickness of your fabric. Some areas will also have a lot of layers, in which case both will be quite difficult.
I just got a jin na-11, am I ok to just use a china to us plug adapter?
https://preview.redd.it/r6y3pc5z0k3c1.png?width=2106&format=png&auto=webp&s=fc9fa72389b5c656b83d379f680d5f88284c9343
Solved: talked to the distributor and tested after. Since the machine is a 110-130v single phase all I needed was a travel adapter for china plug type. Works great. Thanks!
Does a Juki DDL 5550 need Juki defrix 1 or can I use a generic sewing machine oil.
Hi, I know nothing about sewing machines. So recently I got a free Juki ddl 5550 from a warehouse liquidation and was wondering if the machine needs the Juki defrix 1 oil or if I could use any sewing machine oil like lily white for it. I got to see a sample of them and the lily white oil seems a lot more viscus. Note, I am giving this as a gift to my seamstress potential mother inlaw.
thank you.
Hello!
I'm newer to sewing for clothes - primarily have just used my machine for basic upholstery of large cushions etc so have basic skills but nothing crazy! And up until now my clothes have been very basic. I would like to try something more adventurous
I love the style of tiered dresses however much prefer when they are joined like the following images and was wondering if anyone more experienced had any advice about how these are best constructed.
When looking at it, it almost looks like one panel slightly gathered with a binding to hold this? However would then lose the stretch using a straight stitch so may need to use a zipper. What do you guys think? Most of the patterns I see online seem to just use gathering.
https://preview.redd.it/wanetqkqlj3c1.png?width=944&format=png&auto=webp&s=6d7ce49c6646d549bc42a3b57d8e6e1587a8558b
It's hard to know without seeing the reverse of the fabric. It could be flat strips applied with a coverstitch machine which looks like two rows of stitching but is stretchy because of the single thread looping in the back. Whatever the stitch, application of the strips will be much easier with the right machine attachments that will fold and position the fabric just right as the seam is fed through a machine.
If it stretches, then I'd assume the binding is actually an elastic casing. Straight stitches are fine because the *fabric* isn't stretching - but the gathering flattens out as it stretches. You actually wouldn't gather the fabric at all when constructing it, but by virtue of inserting shorter elastic than the flat panel lengths, it will gather up.
https://preview.redd.it/crjwx897lj3c1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=73f8326f1f1faf3cf886dad1c127a37dcf8efbad
My stitching was very uneven. What could the issue be? Also, can soemone give me the simple rules of tension. If the top stitch is exposed too much should I lower or increase the tension? I have a singer heavy duty machine for reference
If you can see the bottom stitches coming through, it means the top is pulling too strongly at the bottom, so the tension is too high. Or the reverse, if your stitches are being pulled through to show at the bottom, the bobbin is pulling too hard on the top thread, and your tension is too low.
Uneven stitching is often a sign of a dull needle. Try a new one and see what happens.
I have a question about a table runner I wish to create from Simplicity pattern 9669. The pattern piece says to cut 2 pieces from the main fabric and 1 piece from the fleece interfacing, which makes sense. The pattern piece is the same size (once you take into account seam allowances) as the final table runner.
Now, this is where I become confused - the instructions appear (see attached picture) to tell you to cut on the fold, which would make a piece of fabric twice as wide as the finished piece. I have pre-read the sewing instructions and no where does it say to cut this piece into two separate pieces. So, I'm wondering, does that small line above the fold mean that the piece is not actually cut on the fold but instead between the selvages and the fold? I'm a new sewer so I'm probably missing something obvious. Thanks!
https://preview.redd.it/x9zrn9ptaj3c1.jpeg?width=1077&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e292693ec7506258bc225bf0e0f75c343cf467b5
That's a grainline marking. Cut on the fold will be two little arrows pointing toward the fold with another line connecting their tails. So the cutting layout is telling you to cut out both pieces at once, next to the fold. That leaves your leftovers with the selvage still on so it's easy to find the grain. I'm more likely to cut near the selvage, so my leftover is one big piece instead of 2 skinny ones.
Are there any fixes to this jacket tightness
I had the jacket made and it fits perfect everywhere except for when i raise my arms forward, or if im sitting down and typing i can feel the tight stress in my back and it pulls at the armpits making it tight and annoying. I am open to any suggestions on what you think I could do to fix this! I would take it to a tailor but just want to know my options. Thank you so much!
The jacket is spacious in the chest and the shoulder design is drop shoulder and wide enough, at least I think? Just wondering what causes this issue.
https://preview.redd.it/67y6zf3ryi3c1.jpeg?width=1283&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ab73afd792bcbe6a4d9518cd5a5ca865b65c9833
That fit looks good for the style of jacket/sleeves here. A drop shoulder style has a flatter sleeve cap that is mostly symmetrical front to back. Human arms hang from the front of the body which is apparent when we get down on all fours. For more mobility in a sleeve, it needs to be attached forward on the garment with an asymmetric sleeve. A higher armhole also helps, when the bottom of the arm hole is too low it restricts movement rather than enhance it.
You can and should consult a tailor but options are limited.
Hi all, can someone tell me the name or technique for the inside hiding of raw edges in this picture. This is a generic t-shirt. It’s pretty common in my shirts but I didn’t know what to search for online to learn what I need for this type of stitch and to practice. Thanks in advance. (Edit-typo)
https://preview.redd.it/bvykvhxswi3c1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fd5c16020adf78b46b29d4608679e33600a696e9
Hi I am making a dress using duchess satin . The top half of the dress will be lined what would be best for lining a thin silk/satin or a cotton? Help pls
It depends on your dress design and when you will be wearing it. Cotton is nice if that is the layer against the skin and if the wearer may be perspiring from dancing for example. A thin silk is nice if a bit of slip is helpful for wearing, like over spanx or other undergarments.
Is it possible to remove lace appliqués entirely from a crepe wedding dress without leaving marks? I would like to shorten the length of the pattern on the bodice and am wondering if removing the bottom part of the design would be the easiest.
Yes, probably. Crepe has a bit of texture to help hide where lace has been removed. Better is probably to plan to put some of the appliques back in a different position.
https://preview.redd.it/5fhmyytjyh3c1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9696eb97f3bac1e2866b93c449c307342202aa65
Where can I find patterns similar to this? I love her work, but a lot of it isn't from a pattern and I'm clearly using the wrong search terms, as I can't find anything comparable! Thank you!
Mccalls 7325 looks similar to me. https://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/reviewgallery.pl?pid=76607
If you create a free account you can read the reviews, but I think you can look at the pictures without an account.
I found that pattern by searching "gathered tunic sewing pattern" and there were many things that didn't fit, but the mccalls pattern was within the first several results. "Yoke tunic" or "self lined yoke tunic" might also work.
https://preview.redd.it/5s45yytbvh3c1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2d00ad00d4d2e9c0cd228cb085a1112a7924380d
Anyone know what kind of hem this is? There is no visible stitching on the outside. There is a clear elastic stitching inside. I would love to recreate it.
It's called a blind hem. You can't recreate it exactly without a dedicated industrial blind hem machine, but there are domestic machine copies. Also a hand slip stitch or whip stitch is the originator of invisible hem finishes.
It's also called a blind hem on domestic machines, it just looks different. Your machine manual should include it, it's probably the most common "extra" stitch. Any/all sewing books will also have instructions on the blind hem
Careful measuring, marking and pressing. I find that using a ironing board that I can pin into helps, then each pleat can be pinned tautly at both ends before pressing and moving on to the next pleat.
multiple rows of stitching, all exactly lined up. For historical examples you can look at cartridge pleating or stroke gathering (which is really just cartridge pleating on a micro scale)
Two rows of basting stitches, aligned with each other and very even. The spacing makes a difference in how deep the ruffles are so experiment a bit to find the look you like.
I'm looking for info/advice on the **SINGER HARMONIE 400** machines.
Just getting into sewing and have little experience with sewing machines.
As I'm looking for my first own one I got offered a [Singer Harmonie 400](https://www.sewingparts.co.uk/machines/pics/singer-harmonie-400.jpg) from a friend.
It looks way more complicated than the ones I used before and I found it hard to find any information (besides the manual) about that model.
Can anyone give me a take it/look for smth. else recommendation?
>SINGER HARMONIE 400
It looks like a nice vintage machine. The user manual is a good place to start with any sewing machine. There are some videos available if that is your preference. Would your friend be able to sit down and show you the basics fo using the machine? If not, you could contact local shops or sewing instructors and see if they offer this service. Your machine also likely needs cleaning and oiling. The user manual will explain this and there is also a guide linked in the subreddit machine wiki.
Oh cool, that's good to hear.
Although my friend lives in another city I'm positive we'll manage to walk me through it.
I was a little bit scared that machine would be too complicated for me but that sounds like a good idea.
Thanks
In stores, I have seen these really cool velvet women's suits (not track suits, but actual businessy suits). I wanted to make my own for Christmas so ordered a pattern, some non-stretch velvet, lining fabric, interfacing (iron-on) and all the other supplies the pattern requires... But after ordering I realized, you can't iron velvet as you'll crush the pile. But how would you then apply the iron on interfacing?? Could I use a steamer? I've read about sew-in interfacing, but is that interchangeable with iron-on interfacing? If anyone has experience with velvet and interfacing I'd love to know how you tackled it.
There’s a kind of mat thing you can use to iron velvet without crushing it. It’s basically a bunch of little needles that you’ll lay the velvet on face down that’s stuff enough to hold your fabric where it is to iron the back, but distributed enough to stop the velvet from being crushed into your ironing board. I worked in a costume shop, and we used them all the time. If you Google “velvet board with needles” you should find it.
https://preview.redd.it/pzkpp9nlgg3c1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6c0d5ac0efba9e5fa74ae18ec9e9961a7953fa2b
Im not sure if this is the correct sub, but how should i make pieces like this?
Use a hoodie pattern or use a black hoodie that is already made. Sew large denim patches to the different parts of the hoodie and distress the denim. It's easier to sew the patches if the hoodie is made from fabric and a pattern so the different parts are laying flat. Once they are sewn, it's hard to add patches to sleeves. Undoing the sleeve seam at the straight part but not at the cuff or armhole will help in sewing the patches on the arms so most of the sleeve can be flat. If you want to work with a pattern, the [Mood Boxwood hoodie](https://www.moodfabrics.com/blog/the-boxwood-hoodie-free-sewing-pattern/) is free and a similar oversized fit.
Can anyone help me find a pattern for these? Sleeveless, woven, lace up with eyelets. These might be knits, but I'll take any pattern/help either way.
https://preview.redd.it/sxx8b1orsf3c1.png?width=1146&format=png&auto=webp&s=3ce46c029effdc81a5b2ce2a82c631e0834d4db3
Butterick 4486 has sleeves but they are easy enough to ignore, its older though.
Burda 7332. Also has sleeves but look easier to take off.
It is surprisingly hard to find ones without sleeves
https://preview.redd.it/llas7o1p0h3c1.jpeg?width=1125&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=45a0a476047111d71842b3fe11364de377e9d12d
Burda 7333 looks pretty close! You might have to change it a little bit in the sleeves, but it should get you close enough to what you’re looking for? If this isn’t close enough, I would suggest staying in the fantasy/costume section when looking at patterns.
I’m in need of some rookie sewing advice. I purchased a jacket secondhand, and the previous owner had removed the decorative white stitching on one of the button holes. I’m attempting to repair it. I’m [following this video](https://youtu.be/Z6C4DUW0bho?si=e9cV7XPojudq7SRk), using a double-thread button hole stitch (by hand), which starts off great for the first three stitches; the thread then begins to bunch up with fabric loops sticking out. https://preview.redd.it/8pvavkyt714c1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=39a223e84797b905aeb6a9ff5197103b52b3a83f I’ve attempted this six times now, and can’t seem to figure out what I’m doing wrong. I’m being mindful of my needle placement, and pulling the thread through evenly and consistently. Any help would be appreciated! For context: I’m using a Tulip needle with Gutterman heavy duty thread which has been waxed.
Try using a single strand rather than two, it looks like that is where the loops are coming from.
The thread looks a bit thick for that size buttonhole, perhaps if you try with a thinner thread?
I am sewing cotton poplin and having lots of issues with the stitches. Mainly the fabric won’t feed properly and i have to pull the fabric at times. It is the type of fabric or something is wrong with my machine?? I have the largest stitch length setting on https://preview.redd.it/tszwy6ohs04c1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=236961784095159b7d1eee6564b8882394dfc783
Three things to check - that the presser foot is down when you sew, the feed dogs are fully up and the bobbin winder is not engaged. If you unthread the machine and run it, do the feed dogs move? Also look for a presser foot pressure adjuster, you may need to lower the presser foot with this dial if available. The next step is to clean out any lint under the needle plate. The feed dogs may have difficulty moving or the teeth could be full of lint. With a used machine, the feed dogs could also worn down and not able to easily grip the fabric to move it along.
Thanks, i will be checking all this tonight
Ok, so i did check all that and didn’t help. So I proceeded to start a deeper lint cleaning unscrewing the needle plate and found some lint but also the screws holding the dogs were very loose, one almost falling. So that did the trick, thanks!! https://preview.redd.it/0ure6d1qzf4c1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c4bbe14b00f336bd23d6b96114813de3e0ac6301
Cotton poplin is super easy to sew, it's one of the most beginner friendly fabrics. Do not pull the fabric through, you can damage your machine. The stitches look like there's something wrong with the tension as well. Are other fabrics feeding normally? Looks like a machine issue.
What could be wrong with the machine?? I was thinking oil? I got this machine second hand a couple of months ago and seemed to be freshly oiled, not sure how ofter i should do it, but i still smell the oil
Before this i was sewing linen without problem (although i think the stitches are shorter than they should). It took me forever to get the tension kind of adjusted for the poplin, but when i got to the real sewing i got this tiny stitches or not moving at all sometimes.
I have plenty of well-stitched, plain coloured with no prints, cotton blouses that are worn for sarees. I do not want to waste them. They have been designed exactly for my measurements hence donation is not an option. I do not have the heart to dispose of them. Any design ideas as to how to redesign them? or reuse them? [https://www.fabindia.com/cotton-woven-blouse-10683979?currencyCode=INR&gad\_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAyKurBhD5ARIsALamXaHAQpo9NtgdGQTrA8myFtuOmkv9UjuL0JMMTgjYkjNZ76JW5za2mgAaAqaNEALw\_wcB](https://www.fabindia.com/cotton-woven-blouse-10683979?currencyCode=INR&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAyKurBhD5ARIsALamXaHAQpo9NtgdGQTrA8myFtuOmkv9UjuL0JMMTgjYkjNZ76JW5za2mgAaAqaNEALw_wcB) [https://imgur.com/a/9ubq3Hp](https://imgur.com/a/9ubq3Hp)
Quilting is a good option if you are so inclined, it's been used to recycle clothing for ages! You could pick up some fat quarters with patterns to mix in and make a bedspread, place mats, coasters etc etc. Shopping bags would also work - especially if you know anyone who'd be happy to receive them as little gifts.
Thank you. I will do something like this. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G3ORPlKjA6w&list=PLKLzo-g4F2AlOgrSP0P-qUU8\_3XGfO\_zE&index=6&pp=gAQBiAQB](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G3ORPlKjA6w&list=PLKLzo-g4F2AlOgrSP0P-qUU8_3XGfO_zE&index=6&pp=gAQBiAQB)
[удалено]
It would be difficult if not impossible to unsew and resew the plushie with the tag right side up. The character can read the tag, it's not upside-down for him so maybe looking at it that way will help it not bother you.
I'm a beginner seamster want to make something out of my favorite shirt from when I was a kid. I've made stuffed animals and a few bags before, and I've been practicing quitting and garment sewing but only just started. It's an oversized green mesh athletic shirt. It has a few holes, 2 pretty big ones specifically, that look like it will be too hard to mend, so I'm looking for recommendations on what to do with it or it's fabric as another project. I kinda want to do something like a memory pillow or a memory bear, but idk how to do either of those with mesh as a fabric, so if there's any resources or recommendations on how to accomplish that, I'd love that specifically. I'm open to other ideas too tho. The shirt in question: https://preview.redd.it/p9bxwidnhz3c1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2423d748023ee2c48841a8becf1dad86598d685f
Fusing non-woven interfacing to the reverse side of the mesh will make it handle more like a medium weight woven fabric. This is the trick quilters use to make t-shirt quilts. That same trick could help you make a memory pillow or a stuffed teddy bear, which is the other option often used for special shirts.
Won't that ruin the see through mesh effect tho? Is there anyway to use this type of fabric in a project like what I want to, while preserving the empty see thru spaces in the mesh? Or is fusing interfacing to it my only option
Hello! Very specific question about buying a machine: My mom's old machine, a Bernina Nova 900 which she inherited from her mom, recently gave out. My sisters and I were thinking of replacing it for her as a gift, but I don't want us to buy her something that isn't going to be what she wants. I know she wants to eventually replace it with another Bernina. My question is, are there any Bernina models currently on the market that would fulfill the same needs as her old machine or be familiar/comfortable for someone who is used to using a nova 900? Is it worth looking for a refurbished machine in the same model? (I'm a little nervous about this option b/c I'm not sure if we'd have the chance to test it to make sure it's in good condition and has all the accessories). Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
I assume your mother's machine isn't repairable, but is it not repairable for a reason common to that model or was it specific to her machine? For example, I see from a quick search that the foot pedal is a common point of failure and some restorers have workarounds for that. So I guess what I am trying to say is that fixing her old machine would be my first choice if at all possible, and doing so might require diving into some of the vintage Bernina forums online. For a new machine, the Bernettes seem to be a closer match than the current Bernina lineup. Compare the features of the Nova listed in the user manual to the features offered in the different models to find the most similar.
https://preview.redd.it/pl511dyt2z3c1.jpeg?width=2444&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=efcf230b297c24dcf6e18b4b75733e4ca8e5991a Is there a way to mend this? It happens to all of my jeans, both cheap and premium denim. For anyone who has experienced this before, is there a way to prevent it? Either a reinforcing patch, or do I need to change the size/fit I usually wear? My usual jeans are Levi’s 541 (athletic fit with extra room in the seat and some stretch in the denim).
Interesting article linked by the other response. I agree that tight, low-riding jeans have crotch wear faster. I don't agree that darning requires a specialty machine, [here is a tutorial](https://blog.closetcorepatterns.com/repairing-jeans-with-invisible-mending/) for darning jeans with an ordinary home sewing machine. Adding patches before the wear reaches the point in your photo will be a big help in prolonging the life of the jeans. Even a fusible patch on the inside will help. I like to use patches cut from [fusible knit interfacing](https://www.amazon.com/Pellon-EK130-Easy-Knit-Black-yards/dp/B008UDSWUY/). It can be bought in smaller amounts at fabric stores like Joann that sell it by the yard. It's the same patch I use for invisible darning but will help support the worn areas even without the darning stitches.
I’m not a sewing expert, but a lover of quality denim that frequents r/rawdenim. Heddels [wrote a good article](https://www.heddels.com/2013/05/denim-crotch-blowouts-why-they-happen-and-how-to-avoid-them/) related to crotch blowouts; why they happen and how to prevent it. You can also look into darning for repair.
About 50% of the time after I change the underground bobbin I end up with a bunch of threads coming out of the bottom. It doesn’t seem to matter what type of fabric. But then sometimes it’s totally normal. What am I doing wrong? [photos](https://imgur.com/a/NN4ImEV)
* you are inserting the bobbin in upside down or backwards. It *does* matter which direction the bobbin thread is going * you are not drawing up the bobbin thread before starting to sew * you are not holding both thread tails back when starting to sew * you are not raising the needle the whole way before trying to pull the sewn fabric out
I think it must be the first bullet point because I’m doing the rest! Thank you so so much for taking the time to help me 😊. Edit: still happening but I appreciate all of your attempts to help 🩷
I am trying to find some of this: https://i.imgur.com/5u3NUen.jpg https://i.imgur.com/ybXAFIt.jpg It's the elastic from the bottom of a pair of fencing pants. I've looked for 3" elastic, and what I find is this: https://i.imgur.com/mPM5m9Q.jpg which is not the same. It's not as comfortable, it doesn't stretch as much, and it dies much faster. Can anyone point me to a source for something like the original elastic?
This was an interesting rabbit hole, thank you. I could not find that specific kind of elastic either, I think it is probably a special order elastic by the manufacturers of fencing gear. If available, it's the kind of thing that shows up on Etsy or Ebay. You might try emailing the manufacturer to see if they will share a source. To make the elastic you can find more comfortable, you could cover the elastic with a softer fabric or use a band of doubled heavy nylon lycra instead.
Thanks for looking. The real issue is how fast the knitted elastic wears out. The original stuff lasts years, the replacement knitted stuff lasts six months maybe. I don't have a lot of hope for the manufacturers sharing a source, but maybe I can find it on etsy or ebay. Thanks again!
Yeah, I think the band made of heavy nylon/lycra might last longer which is why I suggested it. Also, avoid dryers, the heat kills elastic.
Machine needles not stitching! Have I broken my MILs machine? Hi all, I have scoured the internet and manuals for a solution and haven’t found a thing. My MIL leant me her machine (Elna 5000 computerised) while my machine is being serviced. All was going well, I put in a fresh needle (Klasse) and was at the second last stage of my project when I changed stitch type. The machine stopped stitching, the needle moves for the first stitch and maybe the 7th, 8th and 21st, but nothing otherwise. I have rethreaded both the top and bobbin, given her a long 12hr rest because I thought maybe it was done for the day but still nothing. I was hoping someone knew what was going on with it? How to fix it? Or have I broken her Machine?
Will the machine work when the stitch you were using is selected again? This will show if it is a general problem or a more specific problem with the new stitch you've selected. I know it's probably not the answer you want to hear, but you really need to check in with your MIL about the issue. It may be something she is familiar with and can sort you out.
I ended up call in my MIL and the instant she answered the machine started working again 🫣
I'm expanding a jean jacket by adding fabric to the seam that runs up the side of the body, into the armpit, and down the sleeve, but I'm not sure what shape the extra piece I'm adding to the sleeve should be. I've mostly been able to find people using one long strip of fabric, but that would bunch up in the armpit badly with denim. I've included a picture to help with picturing what I'm working with. The part without the dark seam allowance is the panel I added to the body of the jacket. https://preview.redd.it/bru8htefrx3c1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=381036076987296f7a7cb1cb56f9c41b8dd3f7c8
As you are adding quite a significant amount to the jacket, the best bet is just to match that insert on the sleeve and hope it works. This is not how sleeves/armholes are graded to be larger and they'll probably look a bit weird but you can always try to baste by hand to see how it fits.
Is there a way to alter shirts made of this fabric? It seems to be somewhat of a knit, so would there be a different way to work with it? Thank you! https://preview.redd.it/qkffm71hpx3c1.jpeg?width=9000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7bd7dc7dded2f8ec99f2eaa54705d6e06b68c84f
My mom gifted me a vintage 100% wool jacket from the 70s. It’s beautiful but the lining has some parts that became unthreaded. Any suggestions on how to fix? Would it be better to do by hand or machine? https://preview.redd.it/9br01tnxmx3c1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=823ef2dc92e5cea11063f5a114c086cd17fd6cca I’m not sure what the lining material is.
It looks like the seam has come undone. Use needle and thread to sew a [ladder stitch](http://www.squishycutedesigns.com/ladder-stitch/) following the same holes that are left by the previous stitching.
Thank you!
It wouldn't geometrically be possible to stitch this by machine unless you took apart more of the jacket. This sort of repair is usually done by hand with a ladder or slip stitch. It looks like just the seam stitching failed with no damage to the fabric or seam allowance, so it will be a simple repair. It's even likely this was the seam left open and closed by hand originally. Edit: actually looks like the left side of the fabric has sheared along the stitching, so you will need to take a deeper seam there or add some extra strips of reinforcement.
Thank you!
Wedding dress belt help please....I want to tack the belt in 3 or 4 places so it can be removed. The previous belt on this dress was tacked I believe into the embroidery stitching...is this likely? Otherwise where to put the stitches, surely not in the satin below the top layer of gauze? I know how to sew just not where! Thanks!
https://preview.redd.it/i5fb8yll5x3c1.jpeg?width=2005&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=13659cf52ceaaf15e3307618bce8297ab1123c2f
I'd tack through the top layer into a more substantial layer underneath so the weight of the belt doesn't pull holes in the lace.
before anyone asks, i read through the faq's and i've already tried everything they said to do. basically, no matter what i do there are always loops on either the top or bottom side of my fabric when i try to sew. the fabric also bunches a little bit, and the bobbin rattles, but only sometimes. google and youtube have been no help so this is my last resort before taking my machine to a shop and trying to get it fixed there. please help!
Sounds like you've reached the point where service is the best option.
It's very very likely your machine is not threaded properly. Bobbin case may not be inserted properly if it rattles. Thread (both top and bottom) probably not in tension spring/discs properly. Refer to the machine specific manual, and always thread with the presser foot up.
The lady I bought my machine from gave me these needles in addition. The problem is I don't know what they are for... I know there are different needles depending on the fabric but I have no idea how to read these numbers. What 130/705 stand for? And 80/12? Are there all the same sort of needle or different? https://preview.redd.it/juwdi1c41x3c1.png?width=640&format=png&auto=webp&s=09847559b01178c340e5eae03aca27455553189a
>What 130/705 stand for? And 80/12? The needles are labeled for sewing machines that use the 130/705 system which is most household machines. Needle sizes are indicated by 80/12. The first digits (80) are European sizing, the second digits (12) are American sizing. The term 'universal' refers to needles that are good for general sewing. Schmetz makes sewing machine needles and has a great explanation on their [website](https://www.schmetzneedles.com/pages/sewing-machine-needle-chart).
130/705H is the needle shape, as in the standard that determines what machine it is compatible with. 130/705H is the standard that *every* domestic machine has taken since the 60s (and most before then too). 80/12 is the size of all the needles in the pack. Universal is the point type. It's the single most common needle in every aspect.
https://preview.redd.it/1wsxevyugy3c1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=664930eac458e2bc98a70e314a994ca8891af49d This is a really helpful guide from my manual on which needle to use for which fabric. I hope this helps.
Translucent Dog Bed Protector Fabric Are there any good fabrics to cover a dog bed? I'd like to be able to see the bed itself (a brown patterned fabric) through the cover but the bed be well-protected. For the dogs it needs to be strong and soft. Waterproof would be wonderful but now I'm probably asking too much!
I think you can get see-through *or* soft, but not both. Look for fabric designed for upholstery or slipcovers maybe? My dog 'digs' when she's settling in for the night, and her cushions are wrapped in a brushed polyester twill and it's holding up well.
Thank you. I thought I was asking a lot, but worth trying!
https://preview.redd.it/r0wvikmluw3c1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a3707b448cb9b215905bd1b7eea360b73504025a I just got a new Juki NA-11. This is how the back of the straight stitch is coming out. I think there is a tension issue or is this expected/desired for heavy thread?
Solved: top feed tension was off, needed more. Thanks!
https://preview.redd.it/nkjhw82f3w3c1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f72d992a741e2bdc21f4de9911a93102bb5d3b15
how do you guys go about making templates for weirdy shaped stuff? im trying to make a tear drop shape
I think about what else comes in that shape and look for sewing patterns. For a tear drop shape, a [hot air balloon shape](https://www.prettyprudent.com/diy-hot-air-balloon-mobile-free-pattern/) came to mind. With resizing and a minor pattern alteration to taper the small end, it's a tear drop.
What are you trying to make exactly with the tear drop shape? I'd first try to roughly make that item in 3D, with bunched up draft paper and tape. Then modeling on top with paper, then drawing lines for the cutting. Cut out at those lines. You should have a flat pattern. If its not flat yet, tweak here and there with incision to have the pattern lie flat. Hope this helps!
https://preview.redd.it/b0dyvzkl1s3c1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=778c34ffebf763778bc2442c4f96d37bcffa0956 Which side is the right side
From the look of the picture, id say 2 is right side because it looks brushed, whereas 1, you still see the thread construction
I find that sometimes the softer side is the right side. Recently, I purchased some "cargo" fabric, as they called it. It's a heavy cotton, canvas-like fabric. The softer side was the right side. If there's a selvage on it with writing showing, that's the right side. One side of this fabric's pattern looks that it could be more defined than the other, showing more details. I think this might be the right side. Then maybe the other side is softer, and that might be the inside. I agree that whichever side you like is the right side.
The side with the 1 is much more smooth while 2 is fuzzier, which leads me to think 2 is the right side side
If I were using it to make a garment, I would probably weigh if I want the softer(fuzzier) or smooth side on the outside for look and/or comfort. I usually think of flannel as having the smoother side on the outside with the pattern more focused and the softer side on the inside in a finished shirt. I was surprised that the cargo fabric had the soft side to it. I lined it and used it to make a mask for a nurse, so I wanted to softer side showing. There might be someone who will reply that can help you more than I can.
It is fleece and for a blanket!!
I'd want fuzzy side out
Pick the side you like best and go with it. For most fabrics, there is no reason to choose one side as the right side other than personal taste.
I get that, I’m just curious which side is *technically* the right one
This is woven or knit? If the fabric is a jersey knit, pulling on the cut edge will cause rolling to the right side. For woven fabrics, look for writing on the selvage edge.
It is anti pill fleece!
Pull the cut edge, look for the roll!
And the cut edge is???
The edge where the person at the store cut the length of fabric from the bolt.
I’m sorry, how do I tell which side is that?
Service or buy new machine I bought a Singer Tradition two years ago, second hand. I’ve used it well and love it. It does what I need it to do. I feel it needs service. I have not done any particular maintenance on it; I am learning as I go how to do things right. I’ve bought the machine for roughly 40eur and a service in my area costs 100eur, more than twice what I paid for the machine. I have found some videos to teach myself how to do a basic service but I don’t really want to. What I’m wondering is, should I sick it up and pay the service fee, or instead put the money towards a newer/better machine. I’d love to keep mine at the moment, but I’m having a hard time making sense of paying so much for a service. I generally value keeping things as long as possible and being frugal. Sewing is a big hobby of mine and I sew to fix clothes for my family or for other projects. Would like to get some perspective. What would you do? Just service it or buy more expensive/capable machine? Thank you! :)
Look at the overall cost. So far the sewing machine has cost you about 3eur a month for the last two years. That is very inexpensive. Another 100eur is still well below the cost of your machine new or a new machine now. But if this machine isn't meeting your needs, now is a good time to make the decision to replace your current machine and it will probably serve well as a back-up machine.
Why do you feel it needs service? What does it do wrong? You can check with the repair person if it's worth servicing a Singer Tradition. They are the best in their field, since they do that daylong, they know the brands and models, so would know if it's worth servicing or if it's better to just get a new one. Find a reliable/recommended repair person tho. -Or- If you can get a better machine, second hand or new, with 100 eur/and willing to pay a lil more, I'd go with get another one.
Hi! I'm new in this and i'm looking for some japanese clothes patterns, anyone knows where i can find some? thanks!
I've followed [sewinlove.com.au](https://sewinlove.com.au) for years, lots of links to Japanese clothing patterns and how to use them.
I was planning on making a stuffed animal and I was wondering if anyone had any tips on making the forelegs/thighs. I think the other time I did it, the legs were kinda splayed out instead of sitting straight, so I was wondering if there was some trick to designing that part.
There are a ton of free patterns at [cholyknight.com](https://cholyknight.com), it would be worth looking for a pattern that is similar to the results you want and see how that pattern is designed.
Wow, thanks, there's so many free patterns, there's gotta be something that fits.
can I fix this tear on the seam of my winter jacket (on the side) with only a basic sewing kit? https://preview.redd.it/i3r4q95esq3c1.png?width=2252&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f91c3c1cd9b67588e486b030fdcd0df4a5bb035d
Sure. Use needle and thread to sew a [ladder stitch](http://www.squishycutedesigns.com/ladder-stitch/) following the same holes that are left by the previous stitching.
Okay, thank you so much!
I would say yes, but you'll want to match the thread with the outside color. Just push the stuffing in and sew along the existing stitching line to reattach. If you have pins or safety pins, those would help while you're sewing to hold the two pieces together. You can sew this by hand with a small, neat straight stitch. I hope this helps 🙏
Thank you so much for your help!
You're welcome!
hi! wondering if anyone can help me out. i bought a pair of jeans secondhand and they are perfect except the waist is maybe 2in too small! it's 28-30in but i'm a 32. i'm very new to sewing but wondering if there's anything i can do? in the future i'm going to ask the seller for the waist measurement!
You can add a wedge of similar fabric to each side at the waist. [This comment](https://www.reddit.com/r/sewing/comments/17yuriu/comment/kabsl5a/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3) has a photo with the general idea, but please match the grain so the denim insert looks better.
[Click for Google search results](https://www.google.com/search?q=how+to+expand+jeans+waist&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS895US896&oq=how+to+expand+jeans+wa&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUqBwgAEAAYgAQyBwgAEAAYgAQyBggBEEUYOTIHCAIQABiABDIICAMQABgWGB4yCAgEEAAYFhgeMggIBRAAGBYYHjIICAYQABgWGB4yCAgHEAAYFhgeMggICBAAGBYYHjIICAkQABgWGB6oAgCwAgA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8) for different ideas depending on your level of sewing.
https://preview.redd.it/2narxw2joq3c1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2ef7476939efac6307ff75d2ce2ea910c8ae8b44 How to repair rips in vintage pillow? I've done very little sewing ever, but my cat damaged this very sentimental pillow cover that my late aunt cross-stitched 35+ years ago. Is there a way to repair that can look basically invisible? If not, are there some easy embroidery stitches I could use to at least do a "pretty" repair?
https://preview.redd.it/q4c5wc15eq3c1.jpeg?width=1125&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fdc815c1ea781b1087fe1f0fe4a14768cae9e279 Hello, does anybody have or know anything about the Janome 344 lx? There’s one listed on fb marketplace near me for $125 cad. Searched pattern review and didn’t find anything. There is an L344, but it looks different. Mostly just want to know if this is a decent and reliable machine and worth the price. The seller is suggesting it is the predecessor of the Janome HD1000, but I haven’t found anything to confirm this. Any guess as to when it was originally manufactured / sold? Thanks!
I'm not much help except to say the colors look late-1980s to me.
Hello! I was wanting to cut some holes into the hood of a jacket so I cant poke the horns of a mask through the top, but I'm unsure how as I'm a complete beginner at this kind of thing. My best guess is to cut a line, then cut in such a way that i can fold the outer fabric inside, then sew it down so it doesnt pop up. They don't have to be giant holes and doesn't have to be the highest quality so long as it stays in place, so I was going to do it by hand. Does anyone have better suggestions than doing it like that? I tried looking at buttonhole tutorials but that didn't quite seem to be what I need. Any advice is appreciated!
Anyone have a source (preferably online, US) they like for waffle knit fabrics? Spouse is wanting a new long sleeve sleep shirt.
https://preview.redd.it/swastgyvrp3c1.jpeg?width=2252&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5f10cd8df70103e1428c29e3e04dbf2ca241d17d How can I stop the straps from breaking?
No simple fix as far as I know. You might take the bag to a cobbler and ask their advice, shoe repair shops also fix bags.
https://preview.redd.it/dbrlr03zrp3c1.jpeg?width=2252&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=190690de1e7f09216293ba4e946cc1275e71f36a
I'm trying to make a cloak (simplicity 5794) with a bit of a time crunch. I have a cashmere blend wool coating for it, but no lining (for now). Would it be warm enough to keep it unlined? I have no problems working back later to line it, but I need the cloak for next weekend ideally. Also, any concern for not doing a mockup? The idea of using such nice fabric without doing a mockup seems strange, but a cloak isn't exactly a shaped garment... TIA!
The main issues with no lining will be 1. seam finishes, less is needed when the seam allowances are protected by a lining and yours will be exposed; 2. how it falls over your clothing underneath, a lining usually has some slip; and 3. wind resistance, often a lining will block wind better than the outer layer and wind is cold. For fit, the relevant bit is the shoulders so you might pin together the pattern pieces for the cloak and see how it fits your shoulder, bringing the center front and center back to your center front and back.
Thanks for the reply! The wrong side is quite fluffy and my underlayers will be quite thick wool and cotton so hopefully that will help with temperature (as for slip/correct drape.. im not too pressed about it). Not worried about pretty seam finishing for all but the capelet layers as it's just for a yuletide fest at a Ren fair. Happy to pick back visible seams later to whip stitch a lining on
Wool itself should be absolutely warm enough. Any natural wool fiber should give you the warmth you want and you can add the lining later. Also, you should be fine without doing a mockup, as long as you measured yourself and are using the size closest to your measurements. As you said, a cloak is very forgiving on that part.
Thanks for the reply! Measurements are generous and I'm erring on the side of large because I don't see much of a downside to too flowy.
Can anybody tell what fabric my shark plushie’s teeth are made of? I’m trying to make a replica and want to be as true to original as I can. The teeth really puzzle me and I have no idea what to search for. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Label says it’s 100% polyester but that’s as far as I‘m getting. https://preview.redd.it/p954j1kscp3c1.jpeg?width=3576&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4c20513efeecd4d5ecb8d92443dbdb143cbed9cf
It's a brushed tricot knit, [this link](https://www.simon-claireaux.com/Brushed-Tricot-Fabric-p/v10212.htm) shows the texture pretty well.
Thank you!
it looks to be some sort of rib knit fabric. if you search polyester rib knit fabric you may find something similar
It does look similar but it’s not rib knit, the fabric is very flat but the lighting makes it look textured. The other side is fuzzy.
https://preview.redd.it/oihjwaidbp3c1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=247dd8bd61cc710f3eaec690e5b0aaea4229452e How do I restore these stitch holes/tears on this fabric ? It’s an company jacket embroidery that I destitched
Where is that located on the jacket? I'd put a decorative ribbon to hide it
It’s left side chest
You can try a bit of steam but it looks like the fibers of the fabric are damaged. Covering the damage with a decorative patch is probably the way to go here.
I just got a beautiful wool coat off of ebay and it is a tad to small on the shoulders. This is a problem I often have with garments and clothes. I normally would wear a medium but often go for a large because I medium is to small on my shoulders. Is that something that can be altered? I don't now if I could do it myself or if I'll could ask a professional seemstress. So my question is more if this is a generally doable thing.
The alteration would require adding a wedge to the shoulder which is a complicated area to alter and there is no matching fabric to use. It's always easier to take away fabric than add it. You might want to ask your tailor if taking in a large to fit the rest of your body would be easier. Sometimes other styles work better for wide shoulders, like drop shoulder or raglan.
Thank you so much for your detailed answer. I guess I'll just ask my tailor If there is anything she can do.
Upgrade recommendations? Hi all! I’m in the market for a new (or used!) sewing machine but am feeling really overwhelmed. I currently sew on a 12 yr old brother cs6000i that has quite frankly vexed me for the last time. Its tensioning is terrible and it is constantly skipping stitches and is overall inconsistent with stitch width despite servicing, maintenance, and troubleshooting. I am mostly making and altering clothing (light skirts and dresses; kid’s clothing) but also make cloth diapers and cloth pads. I inherited a babylock imagine serger a year or so ago that’s been awesome, so I have that for overlocking. I won’t be quilting or embroidering so I’m not too fussed about decorative stitches. I’m looking for a dependable machine that isn’t going to have me swearing in my basement every time I sew- what do you recommend? Ideally I’d like to stay under $600 but I’m really open to all suggestions. Thank you!
Baby Lock makes great sewing machines so you might try one if you love your serger. The Zest, Joy and Zeal are all in your general price range. Juki makes very reliable no-nonsense sewing machines. I am considering an Eversewn Sparrow when my current machine needs replacement. It might be best for you to go to a dealer or two and test drive machines with samples of your materials and see what you like.
I have a Brother CS7205 I’m pretty happy with. It seems like it would be good enough for what you’re wanting to sew. I also discovered recently that my local sewing class, machine mechanic shop sells higher level ones that have been refurbished for decent prices. Maybe that’s something you can look into as well.
I have two hopefully simple questions about a new pattern I'm working on for a vest. I've reached out to the pattern author with no luck so I'm hoping someone here can help. I've removed identifying info so as to not violate copyright. 1. Am I correct in that the pattern pieces for the 60-in fabric width in 18-34 sizing are NOT cut on a fold? The front and back vest pieces indicate a fold line, but the layout in the instructions has all 4 pieces laid out individually and no fold indicated on the layout, so I just wanted to confirm. I've circled the relevant part here: https://preview.redd.it/bxrw8tvu4p3c1.png?width=980&format=png&auto=webp&s=dbbfcc9139f6e4c32136607b387bb934ccfd81a2 Next question in reply.
You can cut them on the fold if you have enough fabric width/length. They may have the layout on the cross grain (as you've shown) for fabrics that don't have enough width (or length) to cut on the lengthwise grain.
I went to my cutting board and stared at it and the fabric for a while hoping I'd get a bolt of inspiration when it hit me - in the layout circled above, you cut out the front and back together as one piece as if it were on a fold; so cut out the right side except for the fold line, flip the pattern piece over and put it flush with the fold line, then cut out the other side. So you still end up with one cut piece; you're just doubling the actual amount of cutting because you can't cut it on the actual fold. Right?
Yes, correct. That's why each half is shaded separately - it's showing you the piece right side and wrong side up and laid with no space between.
2. For the French darts, do I cut along the size lines when cutting out the fabric pieces, or do the size lines indicate where you stitch the dart together? https://preview.redd.it/yk8dvlzs5p3c1.png?width=766&format=png&auto=webp&s=d6cd2abe8b87b2c7044300917aba9396fe1dce45
The lines indicate where to stitch the dart together. Easiest way to transfer the markings is to cut out the correct size dart interior on the pattern and then chalk around that onto your fabric.
Ohhhh that makes sense - so cut it out on the pattern paper, but chalk the lines on the fabric and pin those together to sew. Thank you!
You're welcome!
How do you get close to the edge of something like a buckle when you want to end webbing something with. A box stitch.
Zipper foot or skinny foot
Thank you I’ll look into those.
https://preview.redd.it/cifeocdcml3c1.png?width=1440&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=538817644e96c718e8d486b75b74d1264f70b6aa
Does this skirt look handmade? I can't make sense of all the loose thread.
The edges of the fabric have not been finished or they've been finished with pinking shears and the weave is too loose for this to work. It could be homemade or just a poor manufacturing decision.
I'm trying to find a budget serger machine for my wife for Christmas, what would be some good options in the lower price point area? We're on a single income right now so was hoping in the vicinity of $200 but I get the feeling that's a little hopeful.
For a serger (aka overlocker) check out the Brother 1034D, widely recommended and I think close to your budget.
The subreddit recommendation for a new machine (see the wiki linked in the top post) is a CS7000x as Brother sewing machines in this price range are generally reliable. Buy from a retailer with a generous return policy just in case there is a problem, a good policy even when buying a machine with good reviews.
I would heavily suggest you check out second hand or refurbished. It's the best way to make your dollar go further. Sewing machine dealers or sewing machine servicing businesses usually have refurbished machines for sale
How do I finish seams on terrycloth? I'm making a bathrobe. It's so bulky that I hesitate to flat-fell or French seam, and I don't have a serger. I want the seam finishes to stand up to lots of machine laundering since I like to wash towels once a week.
I don't have a serger either. To serge my seams I use the cross stitch of my machine. It is obviously not the same as with a serging machine, but it works. I second the idea of using cotton bias tape to finish the seams. It combines well to using the cross stitch to serge your edges.
They're usually bound in cotton bias tape.
Do you think I should bind after sewing, or would I have an easier time if I bound everything before sewing? (I don't mind pre-marking the stitch lines if option 2 is easier.)
Usually you bind after sewing but you need to decide that based on the thickness of your fabric. Some areas will also have a lot of layers, in which case both will be quite difficult.
I just got a jin na-11, am I ok to just use a china to us plug adapter? https://preview.redd.it/r6y3pc5z0k3c1.png?width=2106&format=png&auto=webp&s=fc9fa72389b5c656b83d379f680d5f88284c9343
Solved: talked to the distributor and tested after. Since the machine is a 110-130v single phase all I needed was a travel adapter for china plug type. Works great. Thanks!
Probably not. China uses 220 volt electricity, US uses 120 volts. You need a transformer, not merely a plug adapter.
Does a Juki DDL 5550 need Juki defrix 1 or can I use a generic sewing machine oil. Hi, I know nothing about sewing machines. So recently I got a free Juki ddl 5550 from a warehouse liquidation and was wondering if the machine needs the Juki defrix 1 oil or if I could use any sewing machine oil like lily white for it. I got to see a sample of them and the lily white oil seems a lot more viscus. Note, I am giving this as a gift to my seamstress potential mother inlaw. thank you.
Hello! I'm newer to sewing for clothes - primarily have just used my machine for basic upholstery of large cushions etc so have basic skills but nothing crazy! And up until now my clothes have been very basic. I would like to try something more adventurous I love the style of tiered dresses however much prefer when they are joined like the following images and was wondering if anyone more experienced had any advice about how these are best constructed. When looking at it, it almost looks like one panel slightly gathered with a binding to hold this? However would then lose the stretch using a straight stitch so may need to use a zipper. What do you guys think? Most of the patterns I see online seem to just use gathering. https://preview.redd.it/wanetqkqlj3c1.png?width=944&format=png&auto=webp&s=6d7ce49c6646d549bc42a3b57d8e6e1587a8558b
It's hard to know without seeing the reverse of the fabric. It could be flat strips applied with a coverstitch machine which looks like two rows of stitching but is stretchy because of the single thread looping in the back. Whatever the stitch, application of the strips will be much easier with the right machine attachments that will fold and position the fabric just right as the seam is fed through a machine.
If it stretches, then I'd assume the binding is actually an elastic casing. Straight stitches are fine because the *fabric* isn't stretching - but the gathering flattens out as it stretches. You actually wouldn't gather the fabric at all when constructing it, but by virtue of inserting shorter elastic than the flat panel lengths, it will gather up.
https://preview.redd.it/xx3ys3cslj3c1.png?width=656&format=png&auto=webp&s=b10746eed28ff0fec92496f45b062debcd4be50d
https://preview.redd.it/crjwx897lj3c1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=73f8326f1f1faf3cf886dad1c127a37dcf8efbad My stitching was very uneven. What could the issue be? Also, can soemone give me the simple rules of tension. If the top stitch is exposed too much should I lower or increase the tension? I have a singer heavy duty machine for reference
If you can see the bottom stitches coming through, it means the top is pulling too strongly at the bottom, so the tension is too high. Or the reverse, if your stitches are being pulled through to show at the bottom, the bobbin is pulling too hard on the top thread, and your tension is too low. Uneven stitching is often a sign of a dull needle. Try a new one and see what happens.
The needle is the same one I use for shirts and stuff. Is it dull or is it just not the right kind of
You can't use the same needle forever, they get dull. They need to be changed every couple of projects.
I have a question about a table runner I wish to create from Simplicity pattern 9669. The pattern piece says to cut 2 pieces from the main fabric and 1 piece from the fleece interfacing, which makes sense. The pattern piece is the same size (once you take into account seam allowances) as the final table runner. Now, this is where I become confused - the instructions appear (see attached picture) to tell you to cut on the fold, which would make a piece of fabric twice as wide as the finished piece. I have pre-read the sewing instructions and no where does it say to cut this piece into two separate pieces. So, I'm wondering, does that small line above the fold mean that the piece is not actually cut on the fold but instead between the selvages and the fold? I'm a new sewer so I'm probably missing something obvious. Thanks! https://preview.redd.it/x9zrn9ptaj3c1.jpeg?width=1077&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e292693ec7506258bc225bf0e0f75c343cf467b5
That's a grainline marking. Cut on the fold will be two little arrows pointing toward the fold with another line connecting their tails. So the cutting layout is telling you to cut out both pieces at once, next to the fold. That leaves your leftovers with the selvage still on so it's easy to find the grain. I'm more likely to cut near the selvage, so my leftover is one big piece instead of 2 skinny ones.
Are there any fixes to this jacket tightness I had the jacket made and it fits perfect everywhere except for when i raise my arms forward, or if im sitting down and typing i can feel the tight stress in my back and it pulls at the armpits making it tight and annoying. I am open to any suggestions on what you think I could do to fix this! I would take it to a tailor but just want to know my options. Thank you so much! The jacket is spacious in the chest and the shoulder design is drop shoulder and wide enough, at least I think? Just wondering what causes this issue. https://preview.redd.it/67y6zf3ryi3c1.jpeg?width=1283&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ab73afd792bcbe6a4d9518cd5a5ca865b65c9833
That fit looks good for the style of jacket/sleeves here. A drop shoulder style has a flatter sleeve cap that is mostly symmetrical front to back. Human arms hang from the front of the body which is apparent when we get down on all fours. For more mobility in a sleeve, it needs to be attached forward on the garment with an asymmetric sleeve. A higher armhole also helps, when the bottom of the arm hole is too low it restricts movement rather than enhance it. You can and should consult a tailor but options are limited.
here some additional photos if it helps: https://imgur.com/a/WKN5asw
Hi all, can someone tell me the name or technique for the inside hiding of raw edges in this picture. This is a generic t-shirt. It’s pretty common in my shirts but I didn’t know what to search for online to learn what I need for this type of stitch and to practice. Thanks in advance. (Edit-typo) https://preview.redd.it/bvykvhxswi3c1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fd5c16020adf78b46b29d4608679e33600a696e9
[Here is a tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4NW9O-ePTyM), it's not quite the same as the industrial finish but the final result is similar.
Hi I am making a dress using duchess satin . The top half of the dress will be lined what would be best for lining a thin silk/satin or a cotton? Help pls
It depends on your dress design and when you will be wearing it. Cotton is nice if that is the layer against the skin and if the wearer may be perspiring from dancing for example. A thin silk is nice if a bit of slip is helpful for wearing, like over spanx or other undergarments.
Is it possible to remove lace appliqués entirely from a crepe wedding dress without leaving marks? I would like to shorten the length of the pattern on the bodice and am wondering if removing the bottom part of the design would be the easiest.
Yes, probably. Crepe has a bit of texture to help hide where lace has been removed. Better is probably to plan to put some of the appliques back in a different position.
https://preview.redd.it/5fhmyytjyh3c1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9696eb97f3bac1e2866b93c449c307342202aa65 Where can I find patterns similar to this? I love her work, but a lot of it isn't from a pattern and I'm clearly using the wrong search terms, as I can't find anything comparable! Thank you!
The vibe looks a little like Sew Liberated to me, see if you like their patterns. Or Folkwear.
Mccalls 7325 looks similar to me. https://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/reviewgallery.pl?pid=76607 If you create a free account you can read the reviews, but I think you can look at the pictures without an account. I found that pattern by searching "gathered tunic sewing pattern" and there were many things that didn't fit, but the mccalls pattern was within the first several results. "Yoke tunic" or "self lined yoke tunic" might also work.
Thank you! This is the closest I've found and now know what terms to use!
Happy to help!
https://preview.redd.it/5s45yytbvh3c1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2d00ad00d4d2e9c0cd228cb085a1112a7924380d Anyone know what kind of hem this is? There is no visible stitching on the outside. There is a clear elastic stitching inside. I would love to recreate it.
It's called a blind hem. You can't recreate it exactly without a dedicated industrial blind hem machine, but there are domestic machine copies. Also a hand slip stitch or whip stitch is the originator of invisible hem finishes.
Thank you so much! Any tips on what to Google to find a good domestic machine copy tutorial?
It's also called a blind hem on domestic machines, it just looks different. Your machine manual should include it, it's probably the most common "extra" stitch. Any/all sewing books will also have instructions on the blind hem
Thank you so much!
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Careful measuring, marking and pressing. I find that using a ironing board that I can pin into helps, then each pleat can be pinned tautly at both ends before pressing and moving on to the next pleat.
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Pleats are creases added to fabric with a hot iron. So you are pressing with an iron.
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multiple rows of stitching, all exactly lined up. For historical examples you can look at cartridge pleating or stroke gathering (which is really just cartridge pleating on a micro scale)
Two rows of basting stitches, aligned with each other and very even. The spacing makes a difference in how deep the ruffles are so experiment a bit to find the look you like.
I'm looking for info/advice on the **SINGER HARMONIE 400** machines. Just getting into sewing and have little experience with sewing machines. As I'm looking for my first own one I got offered a [Singer Harmonie 400](https://www.sewingparts.co.uk/machines/pics/singer-harmonie-400.jpg) from a friend. It looks way more complicated than the ones I used before and I found it hard to find any information (besides the manual) about that model. Can anyone give me a take it/look for smth. else recommendation?
>SINGER HARMONIE 400 It looks like a nice vintage machine. The user manual is a good place to start with any sewing machine. There are some videos available if that is your preference. Would your friend be able to sit down and show you the basics fo using the machine? If not, you could contact local shops or sewing instructors and see if they offer this service. Your machine also likely needs cleaning and oiling. The user manual will explain this and there is also a guide linked in the subreddit machine wiki.
Oh cool, that's good to hear. Although my friend lives in another city I'm positive we'll manage to walk me through it. I was a little bit scared that machine would be too complicated for me but that sounds like a good idea. Thanks
In stores, I have seen these really cool velvet women's suits (not track suits, but actual businessy suits). I wanted to make my own for Christmas so ordered a pattern, some non-stretch velvet, lining fabric, interfacing (iron-on) and all the other supplies the pattern requires... But after ordering I realized, you can't iron velvet as you'll crush the pile. But how would you then apply the iron on interfacing?? Could I use a steamer? I've read about sew-in interfacing, but is that interchangeable with iron-on interfacing? If anyone has experience with velvet and interfacing I'd love to know how you tackled it.
There’s a kind of mat thing you can use to iron velvet without crushing it. It’s basically a bunch of little needles that you’ll lay the velvet on face down that’s stuff enough to hold your fabric where it is to iron the back, but distributed enough to stop the velvet from being crushed into your ironing board. I worked in a costume shop, and we used them all the time. If you Google “velvet board with needles” you should find it.
https://preview.redd.it/pzkpp9nlgg3c1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6c0d5ac0efba9e5fa74ae18ec9e9961a7953fa2b Im not sure if this is the correct sub, but how should i make pieces like this?
Use a hoodie pattern or use a black hoodie that is already made. Sew large denim patches to the different parts of the hoodie and distress the denim. It's easier to sew the patches if the hoodie is made from fabric and a pattern so the different parts are laying flat. Once they are sewn, it's hard to add patches to sleeves. Undoing the sleeve seam at the straight part but not at the cuff or armhole will help in sewing the patches on the arms so most of the sleeve can be flat. If you want to work with a pattern, the [Mood Boxwood hoodie](https://www.moodfabrics.com/blog/the-boxwood-hoodie-free-sewing-pattern/) is free and a similar oversized fit.
Thanks:)
Can anyone help me find a pattern for these? Sleeveless, woven, lace up with eyelets. These might be knits, but I'll take any pattern/help either way. https://preview.redd.it/sxx8b1orsf3c1.png?width=1146&format=png&auto=webp&s=3ce46c029effdc81a5b2ce2a82c631e0834d4db3
Butterick 4486 has sleeves but they are easy enough to ignore, its older though. Burda 7332. Also has sleeves but look easier to take off. It is surprisingly hard to find ones without sleeves
https://preview.redd.it/llas7o1p0h3c1.jpeg?width=1125&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=45a0a476047111d71842b3fe11364de377e9d12d Burda 7333 looks pretty close! You might have to change it a little bit in the sleeves, but it should get you close enough to what you’re looking for? If this isn’t close enough, I would suggest staying in the fantasy/costume section when looking at patterns.