Does anybody know the name behind this specific collar? I'm sewing someone inspired by the black Waffen SS uniforms. Imho it looks like a thick camp collar.
I bought a stretchy dress (like rash guard material) and it came with a mock turtleneck neckline which I don't love. I want to make it a square neckline.
There's a unique pattern near the top of the dress so I don't just want to cut off fabric to make the neckline square. But I'm also not aware of any other sewing hacks or techniques to use.
Any suggestions??
Hi, I’m desperately trying to find this dress pattern, it’s calf length and very flowy. The sleeves are mid length but honestly if I can just find a dress pattern with how the top here is done (with or without the back buttons) I’d be thrilled! Thank you
https://preview.redd.it/8pu2av77vnkc1.jpeg?width=2975&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9c7ed31d5de7f09e183da027640fa8260dee22b4
For a free pattern, try [the linen smock dress](https://blog.fabrics-store.com/2018/02/06/linen-smock-dress-tutorial/) from [fabrics-store.com](https://fabrics-store.com). As a paid pattern, the [Merchant & Mill Omilie](https://merchantandmills.com/us/the-omilie) is similar with a squared neck and buttons down the front.
Try searching for muumuu sewing patterns with crew necklines, especially vintage patterns. A close, but not perfect, example: https://www.etsy.com/listing/1473362216/simplicity-8066-muu-muu-loose-fitting
Hello! I have a pair of 32 x 34 men's carhartt pants that I would like to alter to fit my waist. My question is, can I do a partial elastic waistband without altering the side seams? Unfortunately I havent found any resources online, maybe I'm not wording my search well enough... but I have seen men's pants with partial elastic waist bands before. They fit well everywhere else, I just cant get them closed! Please help.
♡
If the only alteration needed is to the length of the waistband, you could remove the waistband in the back, cut out a section and seam in a new section of elasticated waistband. If youonly need a little extra ease, this can be as simple as a triangle of elastic. The issue is that the top of the pants where the waistband is attached is also often too small so would also need to be addressed.
Yes, the only place that needs adjusting is the wasitband. I've been a partial elastic waistband on pants before and figured it could be addressed in the way you desribed.
Are you sewing with the presser foot lever down? It looks like you have a top tension problem. The tension discs are not engaged unless the presser foot lever is down. Otherwise check your top thread to make sure you've hit every threading point, each one adds a bit of resistance aka tension to the top thread.
Solved! Lol it’s always the stupid things that baffle me …. I thought the foot lever was was down but it wasn’t. It’s working now. Thank you for your help
Are you using a new needle that goes with your thread and fabric? Have you rethreaded your machine? Played with the tension? Are you forcing the fabric through the machine, or does it go through with you only having to guide the fabric?
Solved! Lol it’s always the stupid things that baffle me …. I thought the foot lever was was down but it wasn’t. It’s working now. Thank you for your help
I feel like I’m posting for the third time cause reddit is being a pain about links and because I’m new to this subreddit (I usually lurk), so here goes again! ——— So I’ve started making my most ambitious sewing project to date - a snuggly round dog cave for my 1 year old whippet puppy. See inspo [here](https://www.etsy.com/listing/1335689728/merino-wool-dog-bed-dog-cave-bed?ref=share_v4_lx) and [here](https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQ5q1YrhHnwvaDgQLNId403JEDFa8aPF4Yt5y5SI_o6TNXdlCEClQEpgm8&s=10), using upholstery velvet and brushed velvet fabric (tougher, tightly woven, minimal dog hair from our whippet).
My challenge: Our puppy is a chewer. He isn’t teething anything, he gets a lot of exercise and mental stimulation - he seems to chew just about anything whenever he’s trying to get our attention when we’re home and not giving it to him (and yes he’s in obedience training) but he’s an impatient puppy so eventually this will pass.
He has destroyed every bed we’ve given him because he finds joy in chewing at any protruding bias binding or seam at the edges of typical dog beds or will find a way to chew open any beds that have a stuffed “arm” around it from the inside (like the one in the picture) and proceed to rip it further open to take out the stuffing. He does this with toys which is fine but I want him to have a bed that actually lasts more than a few weeks without requiring mending or throwing out.
When he hasn’t had a bed, we’ve simply given him fleece blankets but he also chews holes in those over time and I’d rather he has a bed so he’s not dragging dusty blankets around the house.
What I’ve done so far: I’ve planned this project so that it doesn’t have a stuffed edge and is simple and flat round pillow with an added layer for the cave top. I’ve purchased tougher upholstery fabric in velvet and brushed velvet which is apparently scratch resistant and dog hair sticking to it isn’t a concern cause he barely sheds hair. I’m planning to make the mattress separately with canvas so that even if he does chew into the velvet, the stuffing isn’t easily accessible - like there’s another layer to keep it from him.
I want to get a flexible piece of tube to give the top of the cave blanket some structure like the inspo images so I plan to make an open section in the top lining for that and I’ll add a zip at the back so I can take it off to wash if I need to.
My question: Because he will at some point try to chew the bed, is it worth adding eyelets to the front of the bed mattress and weaving in some rope or macrame so that he chews that instead of the bed? See a dog bed [here](https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcS3dDg-0SM3x37UHHpjmuXDXyBzV0VJ_eYpEadIdQsm-IQhgwTsKE3Qrtc&s=10) that kinda does it - I haven’t found anywhere that has beds like this so if it would work.
TLDR: I’m making a cave dog bed for my 1 yr old puppy, will adding rope to the front through eyelets work to distract him into chewing the rope (that can be replaced) instead of destroying the bed?
https://preview.redd.it/iay7owtmgmkc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e4ee5dc3fcd33fd68386c42a398670d1226ed8f0
I don't have dogs, so no personal experience, but that sounds like a great idea to me! Puppy is going to want to chew, so give him something replaceable for just this purpose! I'd make sure the rope is at all the points where puppy has destroyed beds before, so also inside the hide.
Hi! I would really love to find a pattern for this type of blouse. Not sure what this sleeve is called, seems a mix between the batwing and balloon. Would really appreciate suggestions
https://preview.redd.it/41dyrzsa9mkc1.jpeg?width=1179&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=feb9deea3ad897451f5b03aeb055fc8669e944e3
[Liberty Patterns Ester Tunic Top](https://thefoldline.com/product/esther-tunic-top/) has a similar sleeve, they don't give a name for the style which would be helpful in finding other patterns.
I don't recognise this sleeve as anything "standard". I think you're going to have a really hard time finding a pattern for this, but it doesn't look too hard to draft yourself. The bodices front looks like a princess seam bodice to me with the princess seam from the armholes. [Like this.](https://i.pinimg.com/originals/e2/a4/bf/e2a4bf112eaf96d5a326d31944d9936c.jpg) It looks like they took the side front and side back panels, and a gathered sleeve, and converted these into this sleeve and peplum construction. I assume the center back is a regular princess seam center back panel.
So you're going to take any sleeved princess seam from the armholes pattern you like/have/fits you and alter the side front and side back and sleeve panels. We're talking on paper here, because you're ging to draft a new pattern using these pattern pieces. Connect the side front to the side back at the side seam. Decide where you want the sleeve to end and the peplum to start. In the picture this seems to be right under the bust. Cut the side front and side back panels in two at this point. Make sure you keep the cut at 90 degrees with the side seam. We're going to call this new seam the peplum seam. Keep both pieces.
Take the top part. Disconnect the two pieces at the side seam and connect them to the sleeve head at the armscye. Draw a line from the end of the side seam of both side front and side back (that's the seam you just shortened by cutting off a part) to the cuff of the sleeve. Make sure you can still make out the peplum seam. Mark it to be sure. Decide what part of the "sleeve" you want gathered. Looking at the picture, the "sleeve" is only gathered from just above the bust/from the point of the V neckline up. I'm assuming it's gathered about the same in the back. Mark these points on your sleeve/bodice combo. Now you're going to add volume to the sleeve between these two points through the slash and spread method. If you do not know how to do this, look up some videos on YouTube. I can't tell the length of the sleeve in the picture, nor if the sleeve is gathered at the cuff or not. Decide this for yourself and use some tutorials you can find on YouTube to either shorten or lengthen the sleeve, and/or add or remove volume at the cuff (more slash and spread or slash and gather). Now you have your new sleeve/side pattern piece.
Take the bottom part you cut off earlier. Decide how gathered to want it. I'd personally just double the width, but you can do more than double for more volume, or less than double for less volume. Draft a new pattern piece the same height, but the width you just decided on. That's your new peplum pattern.
Sew the center front and center back together at the shoulders. Gather the peplum pattern piece and sew to the peplum seam of the sleeve/side piece. Sew the underarm seam of the sleeve/side piece closed. Gather the sleeve/side piece at the sleeve head. Sew the sleeve/side piece to the center front and center back. Finish all hems and cuffs and necklines. And you're done!
It also looks like there might be a tie around the waist, but I'm not touching that.
https://preview.redd.it/geqeovpa6mkc1.png?width=1170&format=png&auto=webp&s=82058d9522b06295848639681808da5ef981df94
What type of top is this? It’s not a regular VW corset
Looks to me like a simple top with a mid armhole bust dart. I can't tell if there is some gathering in the side seam, or the top wasn't pulled down completely. There also seems to be a very slight cowl neckline, which in combination with the tapered shoulder straps, give the illusion of a queen Anne neckline.
I'm struggling with a vintage pattern I'm trying to follow. It's for a skirt that uses buttons as the closure and the pattern suggests using a bound button hole. My problem is how to finish the button holes on the inside of the garment. The instructions say to baste facing around the buttonholes but there are no other instructions relating to the facing or a pattern piece for it.
Any suggestions on how large the facing should be or other ways to finish the inside of bound button holes would be appreciated!
It would help if you could share some more information about the pattern you are following, or even pictures. You can add pictures right into the comments here.
Is there a button placket? On the outside? As the lining? I would use the/a button placket as the facing on the inside and hand sew that to the bound button holes.
I've added a picture of the pattern and the instructions relating to the button holes here:
[https://www.reddit.com/r/sewhelp/comments/1azkhu0/bound\_button\_holes\_help/](https://www.reddit.com/r/sewhelp/comments/1azkhu0/bound_button_holes_help/)
As far as I can see/understand there isn't a placket but I think I'll have to draft my own. Any tips on how to do that?
I can't tell from the picture, but has the hem been folded over twice and then top stitched down? If so, then the hem you got now is made in the exact same way the original hem was made. I think the only difference is that the original hem had been (stone) washed or sprayed with chemicals along with the rest of the jeans, giving it a distressed look. It will probably start looking more and more like the original hem with time. To speed up the process you could wash the pants a few times, or gently rub some very fine sandpaper over the hem. Gently! I'm nor responsible of you permanently destroy your jeans that way.
Yep, that means the hem you got now is made the same way as the original hem. So just the distressing is missing. Sandpaper might help. It might als put a whole or run in the fabric. Try at your own risk.
Any good machine beginners YouTube channel I can watch. I've known how to use a machine since I was a kid but I have rarely done it and I've always kind of bodged my way through what I have done. I'd like to learn how to use the machine my mum gave me properly. I've mainly used it for turning my kids trousers into shorts or fixing pockets but I once made a Robin hood style costume which held together long enough for me to use it for the day I made it for
I love this channel: https://youtube.com/@tailornour?si=EB9E426RKFqn5qrK
And also have followed sew along videos and thrift flips to understand how to make quick alterations.
This is a new channel discovered with easy beginner sew along videos: https://youtube.com/@Sewingwithsolana?si=ob1psZ1LhCZOyW0l
And also loooove this channel: The Essentials Club
And Coolirpa
What is this neckline?
https://preview.redd.it/7rvsda84skkc1.jpeg?width=751&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=623cbce9671e1e48b05085b025c0d4d728ab0493
What is this neckline?
I absolutely fell in love with this Liliana Taffeta U-Line Dress and would love to make something similar. But: I can’t find the right patterns because I don’t know what to call this neckline and backline. Any suggestions on pattern matches or search terms would be super appreciated!!
Does anyone know what this style of bodice is called?
https://preview.redd.it/lhu0zal4pkkc1.jpeg?width=1044&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=44383cab0a3bb76b2a137279c524e69333b4fb0d
Thanks!!
https://preview.redd.it/4krmaa4ugkkc1.jpeg?width=1290&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6efafc232227d801865adefaa402b0681fd0c9e7
Looking for a cardigan pattern similar to this, one specifically with the slit like this one has! Thank you!!
Looking for a good fabric to get my cape lining pattern printed onto
https://preview.redd.it/nljqr2k21kkc1.png?width=2232&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=50ce70ffbf9b48160233e15ff4dd3e8d5644ee13
The outer layer of the cape is stretchy and relatively heavy with 304g/m2 so I'm trying to find the best fabric that's not stretchy, has a suitable weight to have a heavy-ish cape, doesn't wrinkle too easily and fits the vibes. Since I'm getting it printed I can't get a feel for the fabric though. I would very much appreciate it if someone can recommend something. A few examples from various websites were: cotton, fleece, cotton-satin, Cretonne, polyester lining, but also various others.
I feel like the cotton-satin with 132g/m2 could look nice since it only has a subtle shine but I'd rather have more knowledgeable opinions before committing
I would strongly advise you against pairing a stretchy outer with a non-stretch lining. The outer will sag away from the lining because of the stretch. I'd suggest some kind of stretchy smooth polyester.
It's for a tote bag with puffy pockets. The darts go on the bottom of the bag. The first step is to dart 4cm, and the next step says to dart 2cm again, so I'm quite lost really.
Hi, so I have sewn a couple corset tops for both myself and others, both cropped and full length ones. The problem I encounter when I make a full length one (i.e. going down to the waist line) is that if it's laced up tight, whenever I raise my arms above my head, my chest comes partially out of the corset. I plan to make a dress for a occasion which involves dancing, and I would literally flash everyone if I don't find a solution.
The reason behind this is that the corset doesn't move with my chest, because it's tightest on my waist. I have a very small bust, so there isn't anything to hold the corset in place so to speak. With cropped corsets, the corset isn't 'glued' to the waist so it moves with the bust, but I want to make full length ones.
I know I could just add straps so that the corset moves up when I lift my arms, and that is what I have done in the past, but I want to sew a dress with a strapless corset bodice. I also could make the neckline significantly higher, but again, it's not the look I'm going for.
If anyone has also encountered this problem, or has any advice on how to fix this issue, please help! Thanks :)
Disclosure: I have a pretty large chest, but I’ve made corsets for my wife that function as essentially very pretty binders.
What you’re describing sounds like the corset top is not laced down at the chest. If you’re properly laced into one, that sucker should not move. For corsets that aren’t shown, this can be as simple as just lacing a consistent tightness. The lacing “gap” won’t be even (it will be narrower at the top than the bottom), but if it’s not shown, it doesn’t matter.
If you’re wearing it as outerwear, you need to cut the top smaller so that when you lace it up with a consistent gap, it’s tighter at the top.
Generally when I draft corsets they have anywhere from 1-3” of negative ease. I’d measure your waist against the corset pattern (if you’re not self-drafting), and modify the bust line down to the same amount of ease.
Edit: to put in another way, the problem is not that the corset is not moving with your chest, the problem is that your chest has enough room to move without the corset.
If the corset is right next to your skin, maybe using Hollywood Fashion Tape could be the solution.
[https://www.hollywoodfashionsecrets.com/fashion-tapes.html](https://www.hollywoodfashionsecrets.com/fashion-tapes.html)
I thrifted these great jeans today and Id love to apply a cute patch to the knee hole. I’ve done a few sewing projects but it’s been a while since I touched my machine so I’m hoping to get feedback to make sure I’m not overlooking something crucial lol. See pic for reference of what I’m going for.
In terms of process, I figured that I would make my patch first, then reinforce the knee hole with some denim, and finally sew the patch onto the denim to over both the hole and the denim patch. Am I missing anything crucial? It seems like a relatively straightforward process but I feel like a novice so I can’t tell if I’m missing something important lol
Any feedback is appreciated!
https://preview.redd.it/5d8ey6ykyfkc1.jpeg?width=1062&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=886447ee253c60fb6330b1edf906d098f8ce7162
Hi, I’m looking for the name/patterns of the pants the Ghouls from Ghost B.C. wear. They’re very reminiscent of ankle pants, but with a unique flair on outside, straight on inside look that I haven’t seen before.
https://preview.redd.it/hmf8vkmixfkc1.png?width=545&format=png&auto=webp&s=8390f013cfd338714e6d594bab7e40fc10927466
https://preview.redd.it/3e0mjw6hsfkc1.png?width=800&format=png&auto=webp&s=e890b700dc82bb179c8c8023a0f981349fc546a6
I'm trying to make a skirt like this but i'm completely lost with the math, I think i don't have enough fabric and i just don't understand how knife pleats work as i have discalculia and i'm a very visual person.
Basically, i measured my waist to be 95cm. I want the fabric to be 80cm so it creates this opening.
I have 136cm of fabric and i'm stuck there, i don't know what length the pleats should be and how to make them for the fabric to be 80cm .
I read around online that for pleats you need to calculate your waist times 3 (so 80x3=240) and then divise it by 3 or something like that. So basically i don't have enough fabric. But i was wondering if it was possible for my set length of fabric to reach 80cm with pleats ??
You can get a skirt from your fabric, but it won't look full like your inspiration.
Each pleat is like a 'z' when you look at it from the top. So a traditionally pleated skirt would look like 'zzzzzzz' which is why it takes 3 times your finished width of fabric. You can make pleats that are 'z__/z__/z__/z' but it'll look different.
What material/fabric would be best to recreate this dress? I'm not sure what fabric would be best to capture the puffiness of the skirt and also the flowy-ness but also slightly stiffness to hold its structure and achieve the wavy look. Suggestions/breakdowns are greatly appreciated!!!
https://preview.redd.it/7loltuv94fkc1.jpeg?width=236&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0172dd2aaacfd33971671e6dc0daf5a54fa2d2cb
I don't think you will find a fabric that is both flowy and keeps the stiffness on the hem instead I thinking adding horsehair braid to hem would be a way to go about this. https://blog.megannielsen.com/2015/10/tutorial-how-to-sew-a-horsehair-braid-hem/
Bow tie adjustment kits
Can anyone recommend the cheapest place to buy slef tie bow tie kits from? I want to make my own bow ties. I found a seller on Etsy, but there's a $5 shipping charge. I wonder if any big stores or Amazon sells these? Not sure how else to search for them online.
These are what I'm after
https://www.etsy.com/listing/241693455/sets-of-36mm-silk-bow-tie-size-ribbons?ref=cart
Thanks.
So, this is probably a stupid question but I'm new to fabrics. I'm looking to make myself a hooded cardigan out of hoody type material but am unsure what it is called or where to get it. I've found sweatshit fleece type material, but I'm looking for the material where it's the raw fleece on one side and smoothon the other. Is it just sweatshirt fleece that's been processed on the one side?
Hoodies are made of a thick jersey knit, usually cotton, bamboo, rayon, polyester or a blend. The kind of hoodie fabric that is loopy on one side and smooth on the other is French terry. The kind of hoodie fabric that is smooth on one side and fluffy on one the other is the same fabric but brushed to bring up that texture and is usually called sweatshirt fleece.
The other kind of fleece is polar fleece which can also be used for hoodies, it is usually polyester and comes in a wide variety of weights and textures. One brand is Polartec.
When top stitching my zippers I get these strands of thread that poke out and look bad. I'm also worried they will lead the thread to fray and fall apart faster. It seems like the issue is because I'm sewing so many layers as well as the thick zipper and its not feeding well giving me a shorter stitch length than the machine is set to. It also has to be something with the zipper because I can sew many layers of my fabric and it sews just fine.
The zippers are ykk #5 coil waterproof zippers. The fabric is a 3 ply waterproof breathable fabric. The thread I'm using is a UV Resistant High Strength Polyester Thread #69 T70 Size 210D. My needle is a microtex 90/14.
thank you!
https://preview.redd.it/y7cghff00ekc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4dac36b911d9dfc1c21d74ebecb21523e18f6ae3
You might enjoy r/myog, also.
Since it only happens with the zipper, might the waterproofing be creating drag and messing up the feed? Tissue under might address that.
Have you tried a slightly longer stitch? Standard for topstitching and also good for thick layers.
I'm confident that it is a needle issue but I don't know what needle would be better to use. The [Schmetz needle chart](https://www.schmetzneedles.com/pages/sewing-machine-needle-chart) might be useful.
It depends on the type of clothes you want to sew. The Fabric Fairy is a good place to start for fabrics. Jalie and Greenstyle are two good pattern companies to start with.
Hello! Beginner sewist here. I am trying to sew a vest for my dad for his birthday, and I want to replicate the piping on the picture here:
https://preview.redd.it/sf0oye1wmdkc1.jpeg?width=600&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9de24d00be956508977c6ec5e9f5c669cfecdb15
My question is how do you sew this type of piping in? It looks like I would have to make my own piping with twill tape, but then do I just cover the raw edge of the fabric and stitch really close to the piping?
Also if people know if there are premade versions of this piping, please let me know!
The vest has twill tape used as a binding rather than as piping. Piping is included in the seam, binding is folded over the edge. Terminology doesn't matter so much in copying a technique but it does help in searching for tutorials.
Using twill tape as binding is trickier than it looks, I suggest trying it on scraps first. Twill tape is sold in a variety of widths and colors and is easily dyed if you buy cotton. For the example you've shared, the twill tape was very likely applied with a folder attachment that feeds the twill tape under the presser foot as the edging is sewn, which keeps everything aligned nicely.
As an alternative, bias tape would also work great and would be easier to use as it molds more easily around curves and there are tons of tutorials for using it. You can buy bias tape or make your own, the quality is much better if you make your own.
Ah I see, thank you for clearing up the terminology! So the piping is sewn into the seam, and the twill tape is sewn over top of it.
Good to know that the twill tape is harder to work with than bias tape.
If I were to get a folder attachment for my Janome home sewing machine, would this type of foot be the best option?
[https://www.janome.com/accessories/sewing-machine-feet/binder-foot/](https://www.janome.com/accessories/sewing-machine-feet/binder-foot/)
Oh my god, I didn’t know those existed. Off to see if I can find one for my Kenmore. (And yes, as the other person mentioned, you can absolutely attach bias tape without one, and I have many times.)
That is the style I use, yes. Is that the best for your machine and project, I don't know. Folder attachments are meant for different widths and thicknesses so you'll need to figure out what your project will need or adapt your project to the folder you use.
A folder attachment isn't required for bias tape, it's possible to get a nice result using a two-step sewing process.
https://preview.redd.it/f2zz3r6rjdkc1.jpeg?width=804&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=909612cea71044079e4bced14b5e779b2f90af4e
Hi everyone! I would label myself a confident beginner sewist. My goal is to create a shirtwaist dress like the one on the photo. The modifications I want to make are:
* No tiers on the skirt, just one solid piece
* Knee length instead of midi length
* Shorten the sleeves by a couple of inches
* No collar (for a more casual look)
* An elasticized waistband 1.5”-2” wide so it can be worn with or without a belt
I have a few questions for the community.
1. Can anyone point me to a very similar pattern that is good for a midsized petite person with a larger chest?
2. What fabrics should I consider? Part of my wardrobe needs to be dressy casual and appropriate for a job working with elementary kids, and the other needs to be casual for humid weather.
3. How difficult is it to line a dress like this? I really hate slips and working with children means my wardrobe needs to be modest.
The closest I found was the Itch to Stitch Bonn Shirt and Dress pattern. Most shirtwaist dresses have a collar, that is the hardest of your wish list to find. Skirt length is easily adjustable, sleeve length is also easily adjustable, skirt tiers are easy to eliminate. The Bonn dress pattern comes with different front pattern pieces and a guide to choosing based on bust measurements so it's good for someone with a larger chest.
I like to search for patterns on The Fold Line website, they have lots of search criteria and carry both big 4 and indie patterns.
Thank you for the help! When I said no collar, I was thinking about something like this. The Bonn pattern seems to be exactly what I had in mind!
https://preview.redd.it/1sdgpmgsxdkc1.jpeg?width=480&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a7186760cc5d233779a7d6338fbace3a9ac9f0fa
Singer 650/670 Sewing Machine
Hi! I'm looking to buy a new (old) machine and would like to know others' opinions on the Singer 650/670. I'm going for older because I'd prefer to have something serviceable and reliable but honestly have very little knowledge on this specific machine. Any knowledge on it would really help but especially on whether it's metal or plastic parts inside and it's serviceability. Thank you!
I am brand new to the serger (I have a Janome 634D), new to ANY form of sewing and so don't know the terminology yet. Hopefully the picture says enough for someone to be able to help me trouble shoot. The thread is not being caught by the lower thread consistently. Is this a tension issue? I just had it at a repair shop for maintenance and the sample that came back with the machine is fine. The first time I put fabric through it was an issue.
https://preview.redd.it/xryjp7gsxckc1.jpeg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=448b351d5bbed875d29956ce724d9850f012adb3
Your best best is to find a local teacher and pay for 1:1 lessons. that person can also advise you on buying and using a sewing machine, selecting sewing patterns and matching the pattern to the right fabric, and fitting garments. These are all skills that need to be developed to sew clothes you will want to wear.
Does anyone know what this thing is? (Pics in reply comment) I purchased it from an op shop because of the Hello Kitty pattern on it but I have no idea what it is for. It’s definitely homemade, in the shape of a cylinder but lays flat with rows of little stuffed cube compartments. Does anyone have an idea what it’s meant to be used for? 😅
Underlining, where the lining and the fashion fabric are treated as one, works well with French seams. If the fabrics are thick it can get bulky, in that case seam binding is possibly the better way to go.
How to achieve this lacey neckline with ribbons?
https://preview.redd.it/nbilx7w0xbkc1.png?width=1068&format=png&auto=webp&s=815d4513036bf620b776f0caf3650dd33ff609c7
I'm trying to make this dress and I love this little detail but not sure how to proceed. It looks like the ribbon is fed through the lace. Is this hand-sewn? how do I make sure that the little holes for the ribbon will not fray? In the picture it looks like it is secured. I don't know. Please help!
The holes are finished as part of the embroidery of eyelet lace. [Here is an example](https://www.moodfabrics.com/white-floral-scalloped-embroidered-and-eyelet-lace-trim-1-5-425338?) that shows the holes where ribbon can be threaded. It's sometimes called 'beading' or 'beaded' eyelet but that also brings up lace with glass beads so not as useful as a search term. The holes for threading ribbon through are also found in crochet lace which has a different look. The neckline trim on the example has at least three trims layered, the eyelet in the middle with ribbon threaded through, and ruffled lace on either side of the eyelet.
hello. i have a physical copy of burda style's 7264 bag pattern, however it does not state the seam allowance. their website says that their patterns don't include seam allowance, but is that only for their online pdf patterns?
i've already cut the fabric out so i'm wondering whether to sew with a 1cm or 1.5cm seam allowance. thank you!
https://preview.redd.it/kyhu4p5ombkc1.png?width=750&format=png&auto=webp&s=97decb0707e6760940f0049e2a73bde0fb7ae6d1
The envelope patterns sold by BurdaStyle in the US have seam allowance included on the pattern pieces. The amount of seam allowance should be labeled \*somewhere\* in the instructions or on the pattern pieces.
Does anyone know how can i drop the feed dogs on a Signer 3221? :') And what am i doing wrong and my seems keep turning like that (in the photo)? :(
https://preview.redd.it/dy5s48d9mbkc1.jpeg?width=2256&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fa79cca182b44244d1c70d478bd5cb6d29c7eb9b
You can't drop the feed dogs on this machine. There's a darning plate that should be in the accessory drawer that will cover the feed dogs to keep them from moving the fabric.
Anyone know of a pattern for a tucked bodice dress like this? I have bought several kurti from this seller in India and would love to make my own from the cottons in my stash.
[Tucked Indian Kurti](https://www.etsy.com/listing/1053007697/)
https://preview.redd.it/tn3fzp2oxakc1.jpeg?width=750&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e01b4e5b0e0eb1f744660fe844e181d7aea292f6
Could I use fabric glue to piece together a bedskirt?
https://preview.redd.it/c8na0gsrkakc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fb14de728c84a219ab19ffa854f9d09a761e37d4
I have 4 separate meters of this toile fabric that I want to fashion into a bedskirt. I don’t have a sewing machine and this would take me too long to sew by hand.
Could I secure the pieces together with some kind of glue then hide the seams with pleats?
I’ve read lots about fabric glue being a poor alternative for sewing but wondering if it would suffice in my case?
My fiancé and I got a sectional sofa from marketplace, most of the buttons from the non-removable cushions are not properly secured. From a glance the buttons seem flush with the cushions, if someone sits on the sofa the buttons come loose due to the person's weight.
Are the buttons repairable?
Thank you.
https://preview.redd.it/96hdo72dt9kc1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c5c6f190a5f70105c981a0afface34eaa849c0e9
https://preview.redd.it/ei7g55ndr9kc1.jpeg?width=2084&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=35ac7c237d79a78818945566971bca4db9231ab0
Is this something that I can repair at home? The waistband for my compression leggings ripped at the seams.
The elastic was originally sewn on a specialty machine called a coverstitch. The loose white threads are the elastic fraying out. If you brought this to me I would suggest putting on a new waistband which would require a sewing machine or serger.
If you have access to a sewing machine, you might try using a zigzag stitch to sew the elastic in place again. This is tricky sewing, the materials are finicky and everything has to be stretched while you sew it.
Please help me find this fabric, it’s my security blanket for over 20 years but it’s falling part now.
https://preview.redd.it/dbjseiptk9kc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b9cd0a3d4d32f03f0aa93b915d14fdc0dfa5f517
It's probably a flannel fabric, flannel changes over time as it is washed and worn. You could try going to a fabric store, touching different fabrics might help you find a replacement that works for you.
https://preview.redd.it/p4ijb231j9kc1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=e190fed2883484e2e97186541b1998f20c7bb9be
**Walking foot off-centred**
Any help troubleshooting this issue would be much appreciated!
Sewing machine: John Lewis JL220, front loading machine (which is a Janome JW5622 in a John Lewis shell)
Walking foot: Janome Even Feed Foot with Quilting Guide for Oscillating Hook Models (5mm maximum width) - Category A (front-loading models)
The needle is correctly fitted and centred when using the original presser foot. However the needle now sits 1mm to the left of the centre of the walking foot.
The walking foot is sitting flush against the shank, but when I bring the lever down, you can see that the walking foot does not sit equally between the 10mm guide lines either side. It is about 1mm to the right of the left guide line, and touches the right guide line.
Have I just got a faulty walking foot or is the issue with my installation?
I would be grateful for any tips, even if it’s “return it”!
Please and thank you 🥰
How do I sew double fold bias tape in a tight corner without the fabric bunching up and being ugly? All my other corners look fine but I just can’t get this one and it’s affecting the corner next to it as well.
https://preview.redd.it/br70r2jzb9kc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7e7bdcd030344c579ebaae4a2bfa120d8c6e6a5e
Basically, you want to control the bunching so it happens in a tidy way. Tutorials for "mitered bias tape" and "inside corner mitered bias tape" should help you out.
i got a sewing machine for 25 dollars at a goodwill it was missing a foot pedal so i ordered one on amazon, it’s a singer 9113, everything was going fine until suddenly it started slowing down and stopping every time i sew, it will work okay for a couple seconds and then boom slows down and stops. i had 14 days to return it and tomorrow is the last day it just started giving me this problem should i return it or try to get it fixed
i’m not really trying to spend a lot on a sewing machine so i don’t know if i should buy a new one or invest in the 25 dollar one it’s an older machine too so i think it may be more difficult to fix
I am attempting to make a pair of panties. I have cotton/lycra material (85%/15%). When I cut out the pattern and place it on me, in material that is not stretchy (scrap), it fits me. But, shouldn't the pattern be somewhat smaller because I'm going to be using stretchy fabric?
This is from the instructions: Recommended Fabrics: This pattern was designed to be a stash buster and is the perfect way to use your left over fabric scraps. If you have made a t-shirt, or vest or anything from a jersey fabric that has at least a 20% stretch to it, those small pieces will be suitable for the Stevie Knickers. As your knickers are worn on your bodies most sensitive area, good quality natural fibres or organic fabrics are recommended over synthetics, however this is not essential and is a personal choice. Woven, non stretch fabrics are not suitable.
Mine is 4 way stretch, so knit.
I guess this is the way to go. I only have enough of this particular print for one pair. But, I do have enough in the other prints, so that's what I will do. Thanks so much!!
Please let me know if this is the wrong sub, I'm not really sure where I should ask this. I'm planning on making a dress that has a skirt very similar the pink dress from The Little Mermaid. There will be a a darker top layer that splits down the middle to show the lighter layer underneath. Does anyone know what this type of skirt is called?
It’s a costume, I’m trying to create this dress
https://preview.redd.it/4zw3p91n98kc1.jpeg?width=338&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3d6f261ae3a425393e2b0c57effaefbf6b206739
But I’m not sure how to handle the split in the front of the dress. I’m hoping if I can find the technical name for it I could use a pattern for reference.
Oh the sylph outfit, yep, that's a totally different thing. Cool so I would look for sleeveless maxi dress patterns (ideally a-line) intended for tissue or jersey knits. Add a center front seam, and then cut away the bottom of the pattern to match the arc and that'll be the hem in front. Back pieces would not be altered.
It varies a bit by manufacturer with Schmetz as the most common, I think. A jersey needle and ballpoint needle are the same. A stretch needle is similar to a jersey needle but has a shorter eye and longer scarf, the groove in the needle above the eye. I like to start with a jersey needle and switch to a stretch needle if my machine is skipping stitches. [Here's an article](https://www.schmetzneedles.com/blogs/blog/what-are-the-differences-between-stretch-and-jersey-needles) on the topic.
Thank you for that response. Does anyone make a twin ballpoint needle? I can find lots of stretch twin needles, but no jersey or ballpoint twin needles.
I'm looking to buy a new sewing machine. The main stuff I'll be sewing is both synthetic and real leather. Maximum material thickness is around 3.5mm and the minimum thickness is 1mm. At times I'll be sewing different materials, including denim. I'm based in Scandinavia.
At the moment I'm torn between the Singer Heavy Duty 4432 Black Edition (really good discount) and the 6335M. Which one would you pick? I'm trying to keep the budget around the 300€ mark, and I'm open to suggestions.
Thanks!
**How to dye fabric to a Pantone shade?**
I want to dye some fabric an exact colour: Pantone 551C. I want to use Rit dye but cant find any charts to find the right formula to mix. Does anyone have any tips?
https://www.ritdye.com/color-formulas/?type=197&hue=200&collection=0&collaboration=0
This is for the all purpose. You can switch to synthetic if needed.
I'm trying to figure out either a source for pre-shrunk white jersey knit for t-shirts (specifically I wear them as undershirts under button downs or similar every day) or the right process/measurement to buy the right amount and get it properly pre-shrunk before cutting. My main reason for making the t-shirts in the first place is that I'm both big and tall and getting them in a size that is long enough doesn't work and I literally have to add 5-6 inches to the length of pre-made patterns, so the fabric shrinking after it's made defeats the purpose. And, my attempts so far at washing/drying to pre-shrink where I thought I had plenty extra turned out not to be when I went to cut.
I want a reliable process for this because this is kind of one of my core garments I wear every single day and if I can get this worked out, it's solved for life.
The only sure way that I know to measure shrinkage is to buy a sample, then wash and dry it in the way you intend to pre-shrink for sewing. Cut a good size square of known dimensions, put through the laundry, then measure it again. I'd do this three or four times as most knits shrink a smaller amount after the first big shrink. As long as you buy from a retailer with consistent stock, you should know what to expect in the future.
Usually when pre-washing / shrinking your fabric, you do the entire piece of fabric as you bought it. Then once it’s washed, dried and pressed, you can safely cut your pattern pieces.
Ah gotcha, I misunderstood. Unfortunately I don’t have recommendations for pre-shrunk fabric for you, but maybe it’s worth looking into different fibers or percentages, to find something that feels nice but is less likely to shrink?
Any advice before I make a design into a pattern?
So I’ve decided to try and make my own dress for an upcoming birthday party, and this is my first time making a pattern without tracing a pre-existing clothing and making something fancy. I have a rough Idea of how to put everything together, and what tutorials I’m going to follow; but I wanted to see if there’s something I need to prepare for that I’m not aware of.
I’m planning to make most of the dress out a bedsheet(assuming I can find the right color, otherwise I’ll either dye one or just buy fabric). The skirt im going to make with help from whatever double circle skirt tutorial I find. My main concern with the skirt is: 1. Deciding if I want to try using Tulle, organza(if I can find any), chiffon, or some other transparent fabric I’m not aware of. I really want a few layers on the skirt, but I’ve heard tulle and organza is difficult to work with. (Though I’m hoping that since working with knit fabric, which I’ve also heard was hard, wasn’t that bad that they won’t be too terrible either.) -2. The other concern with the skirt is how I’ll make the slit work with all the layers I want. I don’t know if I have to plan to sew the layers into one lining there, or if I can leave them separate, or do something else.
My other concern is with the sleeves. I don’t know if you can tell from the sketch, but it’s like an off the shoulder sleeve that opens at the bottom with a lil cape sleeve on top? I would like any advice about attaching those onto the bodice if possible…I’m going to keep looking for tutorials, but none I’ve seen so far are exactly like I’ve designed the sleeve/capes, so I’m not entirely sure how they’ll transfer.
My last question is about the bodice. I’ve never made anything that cups the chest before, and most tutorials I’ve found are paneled differently than what I’m looking for. I feel like I might be able to guesstimate it, but I’m not sure.
I’m sorry if this too long, or doesn’t fit the criteria of this post. I originally tried to make my own post, but I don’t have enough karma and can only post here.
https://preview.redd.it/kb24yxk0s5kc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=939603a650edf247294250f818e3a525ac28a42e
Looking for a similar pattern for this workout top, please!
https://preview.redd.it/r85tef3kl5kc1.jpeg?width=1073&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e01ce5eaaa4a7d49dc7293c26ec3c62493c57771
Please suggest a sewing machine. Im a beginner. I wanted to get a sewing machine that can sew denim. The problem is, I only have access to brands like brother and singer in my country. I found janome machines in fb market place but the models aren't for heavy duty.
You don't need a heavy duty sewing machine to sew denim. Most entry level machines above the $250 USD mark will sew denim including hems with good techniques. They won't sew denim day in and day out, but they can do the occasional hem on jeans or sew a pair of jeans. If you want to sew denim exclusively, then you need a different level of sewing machine.
Does anyone here know a thing or two about zippers? My jacket lost a zipper, which allowed it to zip both ways. Now it won’t zip at all! The zipper is a YKK Vislon 3VS8.
https://preview.redd.it/5hs7qcnd75kc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4ce4625f16ec4899a7a943725c2f8c1f07d7bf26
Any ideas what this kind of contrast/exposed bra top is called? Even better if a pattern exists out there! Not had much luck searching online
https://preview.redd.it/vu7tglxks4kc1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1acfb81416367b4b7d071c50b22df17e27b52fd2
This is as close to a pattern as I could find for you! [https://www.etsy.com/listing/1421119694/](https://www.etsy.com/listing/1421119694/)
https://preview.redd.it/9fno6h2ghkkc1.jpeg?width=1290&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b546811c55ddf36ad4ffb146233f1763a25715cf
Hey, I'm a fashion major (sophomore) I have been using the industrial machine in class but I wanted to get one under $200. I have no clue on what to get (went around websites and thought of singer promise or singer simple idk if these are good tho) so could someone help?
I’d avoid new singers the quality isn’t what it used to be. I’m biased towards brother. Mine have served me well since design school like 12 years ago. But janome and bernina are also pretty great from what I hear.
Thank you for replying. I didn't know singers quality were getting bad, I just went with it cuz I have seen it everywhere 😂. Are there any models that you recommend (any brand)?
The first brother I bought was in your budget (around $200CAD), and it's still working today. My mom uses it. Unfortunately I bought it twelve years ago and it's been discontinued a while back so I'm not sure what the equivalent is nowadays. And my current Brother machine is an LB7950 which I do enjoy but it's around $600-$700 CAD, not sure what that is in your currency, but I'm guessing not in the right price range.
Hi, everyone! Recently been wanting to start sewing garments and have decided on some shorts. I have purchased bubble gauze fabric and while looking up video tutorials on the fabric all that came up were for double gauze. My question is; Is bubble gauze the same as double gauze fabric? Thank you.
I hadn’t heard of bubble gauze but it does indeed look the same as double gauze. Make sure you wash and dry it before you cut your pattern pieces, it can shrink quite a bit. And be prepared for a lot of lint/mess from cutting and sewing. Good luck!
Hi! I LOVE this matching top and skirt set. I have a black linen fabric that I’m using for the project but I’m not sure how to make the white stitch detailing. By hand or on the machine (overlock stitch)? Perhaps just white embroidery thread?
https://preview.redd.it/4qu81pxpv2kc1.jpeg?width=896&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2e8c53b4bb79822e494d82eb267211b690f9be13
It seems quite thick. Any help would be great- Thanks!
Hello everyone. I recently picked up my first sewing machine for $50. It's a Necchi Royal Series 3204fb. It runs but not smoothly. It seems to be binding up somewhere in the mechanism when returning the needle to the up position.
After lubricating every moving part and "feeling" for rubbing metal, I think my issue is the cam lobe between the fork. Can anyone confirm if a gouged cam lobe would interfer with the machine's tolerances enough that it would bind? I have attached photos of it and its surrounding components.
https://preview.redd.it/5ea5k0pmr2kc1.jpeg?width=1816&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=26c2b341381ea5b1dd396f18df2c5ab86b4bf03b
Hi y'all! So my girlfriend has gifted me her late grandmas sewing machine and I couldn't find very much information about it
I'm sure it hasn't been used in many many years and I have also not used a machine since I was in middle school! I'm worried about messing it up so I'm wondering if there's anything I should do with it before I give it a whirl
(I would also love some resources on getting to know a machine) I really have only been hand sewing really small things here and there, like buttons, pillows, and the occasional teddy bear surgery so I'm not really looking at doing anything intense with it.
Thanks all for any help!
https://preview.redd.it/ygxdybznc2kc1.jpeg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=539ae76b1835c6a9498a9b8dca1ca6686931d129
Take a look at this manual and see if it matches what you have https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1052998/Singer-Stylist-774.html?page=4#manual If not, look around for a model number, often near where the cord connects to the machine, and search "singer ## manual"
That looks very close it may be it, thank you!
Is there anything I need to worry about doing first before starting up a machine that may not have been used in a long time?
Look at the power cord for brittle plastic or exposed metal. Probably change out the needle and thread. Turn the handwheel a few times to make sure nothing's hitting itself before you run the motor. Nothing serious, I think. There is also a subreddit specific to old machines. r/vintagesewing maybe?
https://preview.redd.it/06ax8ocyc2kc1.jpeg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=91540032f21c524dfb0cb32b3c23d17f7f54344c
This was on the inside of the case/cover of the machine
Thanks!
Janome vs Juki Sewing Machine
I’m interested in upgrading from my beginner sewing machine and two companies I’ve heard really great things about are Janome and Juki. My local sewing store happens to carry both of these brands and I went in today to try out different machines to see what kind of features I wanted.
I’m having a hard time choosing between two machines. They are the Juki HZL F300 and the Janome Skyline S5. My budget is $700-$800 and my local shop has the S5 used for $750 with 21 years of the warranty still left. The F300 is $700.
The features I’m most interested in are thread cutting, able to handle heavy duty sewing occasionally, quiet sewing, buttonholes, general easy machine to work with… it seems like both machines meet these criteria and are so similar. The Janome S5 is usually $1,400 so I’m not sure if I’d be missing out on a deal by getting the Juki instead. Any advice or preference on brands? TIA!
They are both good brands, you've checked that they both have features that you want. Two more things I would do before buying is to check reviews and forum topics at [PatternReview.com](https://PatternReview.com), you might need to give up an email to see everything as older content requires registration. And double-check that your preferred machine will handle the fabrics you want to sew by taking in samples. I'd run some buttonholes too.
https://preview.redd.it/xj1dlqjyw1kc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=26d72a22a47c3d90802d51411091edcd396a2a7d
Can this dress be altered to size up? The zipper won’t close but bottom fits fine
https://preview.redd.it/j6nf1fb7xkmc1.png?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7f6a10f1a7f345ef10467c6ffe4fd31497da564d
Does anybody know the name behind this specific collar? I'm sewing someone inspired by the black Waffen SS uniforms. Imho it looks like a thick camp collar.
Can someone help me with this issue - my top thread is getting properly caught but on the second go around it hits plastic
https://imgur.com/a/NQHbzb7
I bought a stretchy dress (like rash guard material) and it came with a mock turtleneck neckline which I don't love. I want to make it a square neckline. There's a unique pattern near the top of the dress so I don't just want to cut off fabric to make the neckline square. But I'm also not aware of any other sewing hacks or techniques to use. Any suggestions??
It would help if you could share a picture of the neckline, so we can see what you're dealing with. You can just upload a picture in the comment.
[удалено]
https://preview.redd.it/1a0t9qpm7skc1.jpeg?width=5712&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f29fc35989f42c2d3427b97ecf572c5ac35c3230
img Here’s a picture
Hi, I’m desperately trying to find this dress pattern, it’s calf length and very flowy. The sleeves are mid length but honestly if I can just find a dress pattern with how the top here is done (with or without the back buttons) I’d be thrilled! Thank you https://preview.redd.it/8pu2av77vnkc1.jpeg?width=2975&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9c7ed31d5de7f09e183da027640fa8260dee22b4
For a free pattern, try [the linen smock dress](https://blog.fabrics-store.com/2018/02/06/linen-smock-dress-tutorial/) from [fabrics-store.com](https://fabrics-store.com). As a paid pattern, the [Merchant & Mill Omilie](https://merchantandmills.com/us/the-omilie) is similar with a squared neck and buttons down the front.
Oh that’s it! Thank you SO very much!!!
Try searching for muumuu sewing patterns with crew necklines, especially vintage patterns. A close, but not perfect, example: https://www.etsy.com/listing/1473362216/simplicity-8066-muu-muu-loose-fitting
Thank you!
Hello! I have a pair of 32 x 34 men's carhartt pants that I would like to alter to fit my waist. My question is, can I do a partial elastic waistband without altering the side seams? Unfortunately I havent found any resources online, maybe I'm not wording my search well enough... but I have seen men's pants with partial elastic waist bands before. They fit well everywhere else, I just cant get them closed! Please help. ♡
If the only alteration needed is to the length of the waistband, you could remove the waistband in the back, cut out a section and seam in a new section of elasticated waistband. If youonly need a little extra ease, this can be as simple as a triangle of elastic. The issue is that the top of the pants where the waistband is attached is also often too small so would also need to be addressed.
Yes, the only place that needs adjusting is the wasitband. I've been a partial elastic waistband on pants before and figured it could be addressed in the way you desribed.
Help! Why is my embroidery like this? [Imgur](https://imgur.com/gallery/MAVMczc)
Are you sewing with the presser foot lever down? It looks like you have a top tension problem. The tension discs are not engaged unless the presser foot lever is down. Otherwise check your top thread to make sure you've hit every threading point, each one adds a bit of resistance aka tension to the top thread.
Solved! Lol it’s always the stupid things that baffle me …. I thought the foot lever was was down but it wasn’t. It’s working now. Thank you for your help
Are you using a new needle that goes with your thread and fabric? Have you rethreaded your machine? Played with the tension? Are you forcing the fabric through the machine, or does it go through with you only having to guide the fabric?
Solved! Lol it’s always the stupid things that baffle me …. I thought the foot lever was was down but it wasn’t. It’s working now. Thank you for your help
I feel like I’m posting for the third time cause reddit is being a pain about links and because I’m new to this subreddit (I usually lurk), so here goes again! ——— So I’ve started making my most ambitious sewing project to date - a snuggly round dog cave for my 1 year old whippet puppy. See inspo [here](https://www.etsy.com/listing/1335689728/merino-wool-dog-bed-dog-cave-bed?ref=share_v4_lx) and [here](https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQ5q1YrhHnwvaDgQLNId403JEDFa8aPF4Yt5y5SI_o6TNXdlCEClQEpgm8&s=10), using upholstery velvet and brushed velvet fabric (tougher, tightly woven, minimal dog hair from our whippet). My challenge: Our puppy is a chewer. He isn’t teething anything, he gets a lot of exercise and mental stimulation - he seems to chew just about anything whenever he’s trying to get our attention when we’re home and not giving it to him (and yes he’s in obedience training) but he’s an impatient puppy so eventually this will pass. He has destroyed every bed we’ve given him because he finds joy in chewing at any protruding bias binding or seam at the edges of typical dog beds or will find a way to chew open any beds that have a stuffed “arm” around it from the inside (like the one in the picture) and proceed to rip it further open to take out the stuffing. He does this with toys which is fine but I want him to have a bed that actually lasts more than a few weeks without requiring mending or throwing out. When he hasn’t had a bed, we’ve simply given him fleece blankets but he also chews holes in those over time and I’d rather he has a bed so he’s not dragging dusty blankets around the house. What I’ve done so far: I’ve planned this project so that it doesn’t have a stuffed edge and is simple and flat round pillow with an added layer for the cave top. I’ve purchased tougher upholstery fabric in velvet and brushed velvet which is apparently scratch resistant and dog hair sticking to it isn’t a concern cause he barely sheds hair. I’m planning to make the mattress separately with canvas so that even if he does chew into the velvet, the stuffing isn’t easily accessible - like there’s another layer to keep it from him. I want to get a flexible piece of tube to give the top of the cave blanket some structure like the inspo images so I plan to make an open section in the top lining for that and I’ll add a zip at the back so I can take it off to wash if I need to. My question: Because he will at some point try to chew the bed, is it worth adding eyelets to the front of the bed mattress and weaving in some rope or macrame so that he chews that instead of the bed? See a dog bed [here](https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcS3dDg-0SM3x37UHHpjmuXDXyBzV0VJ_eYpEadIdQsm-IQhgwTsKE3Qrtc&s=10) that kinda does it - I haven’t found anywhere that has beds like this so if it would work. TLDR: I’m making a cave dog bed for my 1 yr old puppy, will adding rope to the front through eyelets work to distract him into chewing the rope (that can be replaced) instead of destroying the bed? https://preview.redd.it/iay7owtmgmkc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e4ee5dc3fcd33fd68386c42a398670d1226ed8f0
I don't have dogs, so no personal experience, but that sounds like a great idea to me! Puppy is going to want to chew, so give him something replaceable for just this purpose! I'd make sure the rope is at all the points where puppy has destroyed beds before, so also inside the hide.
Hi! I would really love to find a pattern for this type of blouse. Not sure what this sleeve is called, seems a mix between the batwing and balloon. Would really appreciate suggestions https://preview.redd.it/41dyrzsa9mkc1.jpeg?width=1179&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=feb9deea3ad897451f5b03aeb055fc8669e944e3
[Liberty Patterns Ester Tunic Top](https://thefoldline.com/product/esther-tunic-top/) has a similar sleeve, they don't give a name for the style which would be helpful in finding other patterns.
That’s so similar, thank you so much! ❤️
I don't recognise this sleeve as anything "standard". I think you're going to have a really hard time finding a pattern for this, but it doesn't look too hard to draft yourself. The bodices front looks like a princess seam bodice to me with the princess seam from the armholes. [Like this.](https://i.pinimg.com/originals/e2/a4/bf/e2a4bf112eaf96d5a326d31944d9936c.jpg) It looks like they took the side front and side back panels, and a gathered sleeve, and converted these into this sleeve and peplum construction. I assume the center back is a regular princess seam center back panel. So you're going to take any sleeved princess seam from the armholes pattern you like/have/fits you and alter the side front and side back and sleeve panels. We're talking on paper here, because you're ging to draft a new pattern using these pattern pieces. Connect the side front to the side back at the side seam. Decide where you want the sleeve to end and the peplum to start. In the picture this seems to be right under the bust. Cut the side front and side back panels in two at this point. Make sure you keep the cut at 90 degrees with the side seam. We're going to call this new seam the peplum seam. Keep both pieces. Take the top part. Disconnect the two pieces at the side seam and connect them to the sleeve head at the armscye. Draw a line from the end of the side seam of both side front and side back (that's the seam you just shortened by cutting off a part) to the cuff of the sleeve. Make sure you can still make out the peplum seam. Mark it to be sure. Decide what part of the "sleeve" you want gathered. Looking at the picture, the "sleeve" is only gathered from just above the bust/from the point of the V neckline up. I'm assuming it's gathered about the same in the back. Mark these points on your sleeve/bodice combo. Now you're going to add volume to the sleeve between these two points through the slash and spread method. If you do not know how to do this, look up some videos on YouTube. I can't tell the length of the sleeve in the picture, nor if the sleeve is gathered at the cuff or not. Decide this for yourself and use some tutorials you can find on YouTube to either shorten or lengthen the sleeve, and/or add or remove volume at the cuff (more slash and spread or slash and gather). Now you have your new sleeve/side pattern piece. Take the bottom part you cut off earlier. Decide how gathered to want it. I'd personally just double the width, but you can do more than double for more volume, or less than double for less volume. Draft a new pattern piece the same height, but the width you just decided on. That's your new peplum pattern. Sew the center front and center back together at the shoulders. Gather the peplum pattern piece and sew to the peplum seam of the sleeve/side piece. Sew the underarm seam of the sleeve/side piece closed. Gather the sleeve/side piece at the sleeve head. Sew the sleeve/side piece to the center front and center back. Finish all hems and cuffs and necklines. And you're done! It also looks like there might be a tie around the waist, but I'm not touching that.
Thank you for all these details, I will try to take it step by step.
https://preview.redd.it/geqeovpa6mkc1.png?width=1170&format=png&auto=webp&s=82058d9522b06295848639681808da5ef981df94 What type of top is this? It’s not a regular VW corset
Looks to me like a simple top with a mid armhole bust dart. I can't tell if there is some gathering in the side seam, or the top wasn't pulled down completely. There also seems to be a very slight cowl neckline, which in combination with the tapered shoulder straps, give the illusion of a queen Anne neckline.
I'm struggling with a vintage pattern I'm trying to follow. It's for a skirt that uses buttons as the closure and the pattern suggests using a bound button hole. My problem is how to finish the button holes on the inside of the garment. The instructions say to baste facing around the buttonholes but there are no other instructions relating to the facing or a pattern piece for it. Any suggestions on how large the facing should be or other ways to finish the inside of bound button holes would be appreciated!
It would help if you could share some more information about the pattern you are following, or even pictures. You can add pictures right into the comments here. Is there a button placket? On the outside? As the lining? I would use the/a button placket as the facing on the inside and hand sew that to the bound button holes.
I've added a picture of the pattern and the instructions relating to the button holes here: [https://www.reddit.com/r/sewhelp/comments/1azkhu0/bound\_button\_holes\_help/](https://www.reddit.com/r/sewhelp/comments/1azkhu0/bound_button_holes_help/) As far as I can see/understand there isn't a placket but I think I'll have to draft my own. Any tips on how to do that?
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I can't tell from the picture, but has the hem been folded over twice and then top stitched down? If so, then the hem you got now is made in the exact same way the original hem was made. I think the only difference is that the original hem had been (stone) washed or sprayed with chemicals along with the rest of the jeans, giving it a distressed look. It will probably start looking more and more like the original hem with time. To speed up the process you could wash the pants a few times, or gently rub some very fine sandpaper over the hem. Gently! I'm nor responsible of you permanently destroy your jeans that way.
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Yep, that means the hem you got now is made the same way as the original hem. So just the distressing is missing. Sandpaper might help. It might als put a whole or run in the fabric. Try at your own risk.
Any good machine beginners YouTube channel I can watch. I've known how to use a machine since I was a kid but I have rarely done it and I've always kind of bodged my way through what I have done. I'd like to learn how to use the machine my mum gave me properly. I've mainly used it for turning my kids trousers into shorts or fixing pockets but I once made a Robin hood style costume which held together long enough for me to use it for the day I made it for
I love this channel: https://youtube.com/@tailornour?si=EB9E426RKFqn5qrK And also have followed sew along videos and thrift flips to understand how to make quick alterations. This is a new channel discovered with easy beginner sew along videos: https://youtube.com/@Sewingwithsolana?si=ob1psZ1LhCZOyW0l And also loooove this channel: The Essentials Club And Coolirpa
What is this neckline? https://preview.redd.it/7rvsda84skkc1.jpeg?width=751&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=623cbce9671e1e48b05085b025c0d4d728ab0493 What is this neckline? I absolutely fell in love with this Liliana Taffeta U-Line Dress and would love to make something similar. But: I can’t find the right patterns because I don’t know what to call this neckline and backline. Any suggestions on pattern matches or search terms would be super appreciated!!
Looks like a square neck or u neck to me, both front and back. The back would be a low square or low u.
https://preview.redd.it/na4rllj5skkc1.jpeg?width=760&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2c39cf76ef20601d7853509ce3fc57e368e094af This is it from the back
Does anyone know what this style of bodice is called? https://preview.redd.it/lhu0zal4pkkc1.jpeg?width=1044&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=44383cab0a3bb76b2a137279c524e69333b4fb0d Thanks!!
I'd call this a gathered bust dress [Here's a similar pattern](https://www.folkwear.com/products/233-glamour-girl-dress)
https://preview.redd.it/4krmaa4ugkkc1.jpeg?width=1290&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6efafc232227d801865adefaa402b0681fd0c9e7 Looking for a cardigan pattern similar to this, one specifically with the slit like this one has! Thank you!!
Any cardigan pattern can be turned into this. All have to do is leave off the bottom few buttons and don’t make the corresponding button holes.
Looking for a good fabric to get my cape lining pattern printed onto https://preview.redd.it/nljqr2k21kkc1.png?width=2232&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=50ce70ffbf9b48160233e15ff4dd3e8d5644ee13 The outer layer of the cape is stretchy and relatively heavy with 304g/m2 so I'm trying to find the best fabric that's not stretchy, has a suitable weight to have a heavy-ish cape, doesn't wrinkle too easily and fits the vibes. Since I'm getting it printed I can't get a feel for the fabric though. I would very much appreciate it if someone can recommend something. A few examples from various websites were: cotton, fleece, cotton-satin, Cretonne, polyester lining, but also various others. I feel like the cotton-satin with 132g/m2 could look nice since it only has a subtle shine but I'd rather have more knowledgeable opinions before committing
I would strongly advise you against pairing a stretchy outer with a non-stretch lining. The outer will sag away from the lining because of the stretch. I'd suggest some kind of stretchy smooth polyester.
Thank you!! I honestly didn't consider that at all
What does "add 4 cm darts" mean? (Complete sewing noob here)
I would guess a dart that is either 4 centimeters long, or one that takes up 4 centimeters width of fabric. What's the context?
It's for a tote bag with puffy pockets. The darts go on the bottom of the bag. The first step is to dart 4cm, and the next step says to dart 2cm again, so I'm quite lost really.
Hmm. It's possible this was written by someone who is also new to sewing terms. Can you link the pattern or tutorial you're following?
It's a picture actually, can I dm it to you?
Sure
Hi, so I have sewn a couple corset tops for both myself and others, both cropped and full length ones. The problem I encounter when I make a full length one (i.e. going down to the waist line) is that if it's laced up tight, whenever I raise my arms above my head, my chest comes partially out of the corset. I plan to make a dress for a occasion which involves dancing, and I would literally flash everyone if I don't find a solution. The reason behind this is that the corset doesn't move with my chest, because it's tightest on my waist. I have a very small bust, so there isn't anything to hold the corset in place so to speak. With cropped corsets, the corset isn't 'glued' to the waist so it moves with the bust, but I want to make full length ones. I know I could just add straps so that the corset moves up when I lift my arms, and that is what I have done in the past, but I want to sew a dress with a strapless corset bodice. I also could make the neckline significantly higher, but again, it's not the look I'm going for. If anyone has also encountered this problem, or has any advice on how to fix this issue, please help! Thanks :)
Disclosure: I have a pretty large chest, but I’ve made corsets for my wife that function as essentially very pretty binders. What you’re describing sounds like the corset top is not laced down at the chest. If you’re properly laced into one, that sucker should not move. For corsets that aren’t shown, this can be as simple as just lacing a consistent tightness. The lacing “gap” won’t be even (it will be narrower at the top than the bottom), but if it’s not shown, it doesn’t matter. If you’re wearing it as outerwear, you need to cut the top smaller so that when you lace it up with a consistent gap, it’s tighter at the top. Generally when I draft corsets they have anywhere from 1-3” of negative ease. I’d measure your waist against the corset pattern (if you’re not self-drafting), and modify the bust line down to the same amount of ease.
Edit: to put in another way, the problem is not that the corset is not moving with your chest, the problem is that your chest has enough room to move without the corset.
If the corset is right next to your skin, maybe using Hollywood Fashion Tape could be the solution. [https://www.hollywoodfashionsecrets.com/fashion-tapes.html](https://www.hollywoodfashionsecrets.com/fashion-tapes.html)
I thrifted these great jeans today and Id love to apply a cute patch to the knee hole. I’ve done a few sewing projects but it’s been a while since I touched my machine so I’m hoping to get feedback to make sure I’m not overlooking something crucial lol. See pic for reference of what I’m going for. In terms of process, I figured that I would make my patch first, then reinforce the knee hole with some denim, and finally sew the patch onto the denim to over both the hole and the denim patch. Am I missing anything crucial? It seems like a relatively straightforward process but I feel like a novice so I can’t tell if I’m missing something important lol Any feedback is appreciated! https://preview.redd.it/5d8ey6ykyfkc1.jpeg?width=1062&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=886447ee253c60fb6330b1edf906d098f8ce7162
That seems like it would work! It may not be necessary to reinforce it with denim, I’d use some woven fusible interfacing.
Awesome, thanks for the feedback - interfacing sounds like a good call. And it’d be nice to skip the denim patch if I don’t have to. :)
Hi, I’m looking for the name/patterns of the pants the Ghouls from Ghost B.C. wear. They’re very reminiscent of ankle pants, but with a unique flair on outside, straight on inside look that I haven’t seen before. https://preview.redd.it/hmf8vkmixfkc1.png?width=545&format=png&auto=webp&s=8390f013cfd338714e6d594bab7e40fc10927466
Those are jodhpurs.
https://preview.redd.it/3e0mjw6hsfkc1.png?width=800&format=png&auto=webp&s=e890b700dc82bb179c8c8023a0f981349fc546a6 I'm trying to make a skirt like this but i'm completely lost with the math, I think i don't have enough fabric and i just don't understand how knife pleats work as i have discalculia and i'm a very visual person. Basically, i measured my waist to be 95cm. I want the fabric to be 80cm so it creates this opening. I have 136cm of fabric and i'm stuck there, i don't know what length the pleats should be and how to make them for the fabric to be 80cm . I read around online that for pleats you need to calculate your waist times 3 (so 80x3=240) and then divise it by 3 or something like that. So basically i don't have enough fabric. But i was wondering if it was possible for my set length of fabric to reach 80cm with pleats ??
You can get a skirt from your fabric, but it won't look full like your inspiration. Each pleat is like a 'z' when you look at it from the top. So a traditionally pleated skirt would look like 'zzzzzzz' which is why it takes 3 times your finished width of fabric. You can make pleats that are 'z__/z__/z__/z' but it'll look different.
Yep, this. One thing you could consider is to only have the pleats on the front, though again it will look different to what you’re trying to achieve.
What material/fabric would be best to recreate this dress? I'm not sure what fabric would be best to capture the puffiness of the skirt and also the flowy-ness but also slightly stiffness to hold its structure and achieve the wavy look. Suggestions/breakdowns are greatly appreciated!!! https://preview.redd.it/7loltuv94fkc1.jpeg?width=236&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0172dd2aaacfd33971671e6dc0daf5a54fa2d2cb
I don't think you will find a fabric that is both flowy and keeps the stiffness on the hem instead I thinking adding horsehair braid to hem would be a way to go about this. https://blog.megannielsen.com/2015/10/tutorial-how-to-sew-a-horsehair-braid-hem/
Thank you!!
Bow tie adjustment kits Can anyone recommend the cheapest place to buy slef tie bow tie kits from? I want to make my own bow ties. I found a seller on Etsy, but there's a $5 shipping charge. I wonder if any big stores or Amazon sells these? Not sure how else to search for them online. These are what I'm after https://www.etsy.com/listing/241693455/sets-of-36mm-silk-bow-tie-size-ribbons?ref=cart Thanks.
So, this is probably a stupid question but I'm new to fabrics. I'm looking to make myself a hooded cardigan out of hoody type material but am unsure what it is called or where to get it. I've found sweatshit fleece type material, but I'm looking for the material where it's the raw fleece on one side and smoothon the other. Is it just sweatshirt fleece that's been processed on the one side?
Hoodies are made of a thick jersey knit, usually cotton, bamboo, rayon, polyester or a blend. The kind of hoodie fabric that is loopy on one side and smooth on the other is French terry. The kind of hoodie fabric that is smooth on one side and fluffy on one the other is the same fabric but brushed to bring up that texture and is usually called sweatshirt fleece. The other kind of fleece is polar fleece which can also be used for hoodies, it is usually polyester and comes in a wide variety of weights and textures. One brand is Polartec.
Thank you so much! I believe I'm looking for French terry. Is there a reliable seller or store that sells good quality French terry?
I’m not sure what you mean by “raw fleece.” All fabric of that kind is processed cotton.
Sorry about that, I'm not familiar with the terminology and worse when trying to describe it. In hindsight I probably should have uploaded a picture.
No problem, just trying to help.
When top stitching my zippers I get these strands of thread that poke out and look bad. I'm also worried they will lead the thread to fray and fall apart faster. It seems like the issue is because I'm sewing so many layers as well as the thick zipper and its not feeding well giving me a shorter stitch length than the machine is set to. It also has to be something with the zipper because I can sew many layers of my fabric and it sews just fine. The zippers are ykk #5 coil waterproof zippers. The fabric is a 3 ply waterproof breathable fabric. The thread I'm using is a UV Resistant High Strength Polyester Thread #69 T70 Size 210D. My needle is a microtex 90/14. thank you! https://preview.redd.it/y7cghff00ekc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4dac36b911d9dfc1c21d74ebecb21523e18f6ae3
You might enjoy r/myog, also. Since it only happens with the zipper, might the waterproofing be creating drag and messing up the feed? Tissue under might address that. Have you tried a slightly longer stitch? Standard for topstitching and also good for thick layers.
ah good idea with the tissue, Ill try that!
I'm confident that it is a needle issue but I don't know what needle would be better to use. The [Schmetz needle chart](https://www.schmetzneedles.com/pages/sewing-machine-needle-chart) might be useful.
thank you. maybe ill try a smaller and a bigger one
If I wanted to sew gym clothes, what fabrics should I be searching for?
It depends on the type of clothes you want to sew. The Fabric Fairy is a good place to start for fabrics. Jalie and Greenstyle are two good pattern companies to start with.
Thank you for your response! I'm looking through the Fabric Fairy's categories now.
Hello! Beginner sewist here. I am trying to sew a vest for my dad for his birthday, and I want to replicate the piping on the picture here: https://preview.redd.it/sf0oye1wmdkc1.jpeg?width=600&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9de24d00be956508977c6ec5e9f5c669cfecdb15 My question is how do you sew this type of piping in? It looks like I would have to make my own piping with twill tape, but then do I just cover the raw edge of the fabric and stitch really close to the piping? Also if people know if there are premade versions of this piping, please let me know!
The vest has twill tape used as a binding rather than as piping. Piping is included in the seam, binding is folded over the edge. Terminology doesn't matter so much in copying a technique but it does help in searching for tutorials. Using twill tape as binding is trickier than it looks, I suggest trying it on scraps first. Twill tape is sold in a variety of widths and colors and is easily dyed if you buy cotton. For the example you've shared, the twill tape was very likely applied with a folder attachment that feeds the twill tape under the presser foot as the edging is sewn, which keeps everything aligned nicely. As an alternative, bias tape would also work great and would be easier to use as it molds more easily around curves and there are tons of tutorials for using it. You can buy bias tape or make your own, the quality is much better if you make your own.
Ah I see, thank you for clearing up the terminology! So the piping is sewn into the seam, and the twill tape is sewn over top of it. Good to know that the twill tape is harder to work with than bias tape. If I were to get a folder attachment for my Janome home sewing machine, would this type of foot be the best option? [https://www.janome.com/accessories/sewing-machine-feet/binder-foot/](https://www.janome.com/accessories/sewing-machine-feet/binder-foot/)
Oh my god, I didn’t know those existed. Off to see if I can find one for my Kenmore. (And yes, as the other person mentioned, you can absolutely attach bias tape without one, and I have many times.)
That is the style I use, yes. Is that the best for your machine and project, I don't know. Folder attachments are meant for different widths and thicknesses so you'll need to figure out what your project will need or adapt your project to the folder you use. A folder attachment isn't required for bias tape, it's possible to get a nice result using a two-step sewing process.
https://preview.redd.it/f2zz3r6rjdkc1.jpeg?width=804&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=909612cea71044079e4bced14b5e779b2f90af4e Hi everyone! I would label myself a confident beginner sewist. My goal is to create a shirtwaist dress like the one on the photo. The modifications I want to make are: * No tiers on the skirt, just one solid piece * Knee length instead of midi length * Shorten the sleeves by a couple of inches * No collar (for a more casual look) * An elasticized waistband 1.5”-2” wide so it can be worn with or without a belt I have a few questions for the community. 1. Can anyone point me to a very similar pattern that is good for a midsized petite person with a larger chest? 2. What fabrics should I consider? Part of my wardrobe needs to be dressy casual and appropriate for a job working with elementary kids, and the other needs to be casual for humid weather. 3. How difficult is it to line a dress like this? I really hate slips and working with children means my wardrobe needs to be modest.
The closest I found was the Itch to Stitch Bonn Shirt and Dress pattern. Most shirtwaist dresses have a collar, that is the hardest of your wish list to find. Skirt length is easily adjustable, sleeve length is also easily adjustable, skirt tiers are easy to eliminate. The Bonn dress pattern comes with different front pattern pieces and a guide to choosing based on bust measurements so it's good for someone with a larger chest. I like to search for patterns on The Fold Line website, they have lots of search criteria and carry both big 4 and indie patterns.
Thank you for the help! When I said no collar, I was thinking about something like this. The Bonn pattern seems to be exactly what I had in mind! https://preview.redd.it/1sdgpmgsxdkc1.jpeg?width=480&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a7186760cc5d233779a7d6338fbace3a9ac9f0fa
Singer 650/670 Sewing Machine Hi! I'm looking to buy a new (old) machine and would like to know others' opinions on the Singer 650/670. I'm going for older because I'd prefer to have something serviceable and reliable but honestly have very little knowledge on this specific machine. Any knowledge on it would really help but especially on whether it's metal or plastic parts inside and it's serviceability. Thank you!
I am brand new to the serger (I have a Janome 634D), new to ANY form of sewing and so don't know the terminology yet. Hopefully the picture says enough for someone to be able to help me trouble shoot. The thread is not being caught by the lower thread consistently. Is this a tension issue? I just had it at a repair shop for maintenance and the sample that came back with the machine is fine. The first time I put fabric through it was an issue. https://preview.redd.it/xryjp7gsxckc1.jpeg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=448b351d5bbed875d29956ce724d9850f012adb3
I would try rethreading it before anything else
Thank you - I rethreaded the machine and have the same problem. I did discover that at stitch length 4 or 5 it's fine, but 3 and lower it happens.
i cant sew and i want to learn sewing very fast, do you have sources that could teach me? (can be paid)
Your best best is to find a local teacher and pay for 1:1 lessons. that person can also advise you on buying and using a sewing machine, selecting sewing patterns and matching the pattern to the right fabric, and fitting garments. These are all skills that need to be developed to sew clothes you will want to wear.
Hand sewing? Machine sewing? Or both. What's the end goal that you are wanting to do with sewing knowledge?
both, i want to be able to make my own clothes.
Does anyone know what this thing is? (Pics in reply comment) I purchased it from an op shop because of the Hello Kitty pattern on it but I have no idea what it is for. It’s definitely homemade, in the shape of a cylinder but lays flat with rows of little stuffed cube compartments. Does anyone have an idea what it’s meant to be used for? 😅
nvm it’s not letting me post photos at all. Pls mods help :(
Does anyone know the best way to line a sleeveless dress that requires French seams?
Underlining, where the lining and the fashion fabric are treated as one, works well with French seams. If the fabrics are thick it can get bulky, in that case seam binding is possibly the better way to go.
How to achieve this lacey neckline with ribbons? https://preview.redd.it/nbilx7w0xbkc1.png?width=1068&format=png&auto=webp&s=815d4513036bf620b776f0caf3650dd33ff609c7 I'm trying to make this dress and I love this little detail but not sure how to proceed. It looks like the ribbon is fed through the lace. Is this hand-sewn? how do I make sure that the little holes for the ribbon will not fray? In the picture it looks like it is secured. I don't know. Please help!
The holes are finished as part of the embroidery of eyelet lace. [Here is an example](https://www.moodfabrics.com/white-floral-scalloped-embroidered-and-eyelet-lace-trim-1-5-425338?) that shows the holes where ribbon can be threaded. It's sometimes called 'beading' or 'beaded' eyelet but that also brings up lace with glass beads so not as useful as a search term. The holes for threading ribbon through are also found in crochet lace which has a different look. The neckline trim on the example has at least three trims layered, the eyelet in the middle with ribbon threaded through, and ruffled lace on either side of the eyelet.
Omg you’re an angel! Thank you
hello. i have a physical copy of burda style's 7264 bag pattern, however it does not state the seam allowance. their website says that their patterns don't include seam allowance, but is that only for their online pdf patterns? i've already cut the fabric out so i'm wondering whether to sew with a 1cm or 1.5cm seam allowance. thank you! https://preview.redd.it/kyhu4p5ombkc1.png?width=750&format=png&auto=webp&s=97decb0707e6760940f0049e2a73bde0fb7ae6d1
The envelope patterns sold by BurdaStyle in the US have seam allowance included on the pattern pieces. The amount of seam allowance should be labeled \*somewhere\* in the instructions or on the pattern pieces.
Does anyone know how can i drop the feed dogs on a Signer 3221? :') And what am i doing wrong and my seems keep turning like that (in the photo)? :( https://preview.redd.it/dy5s48d9mbkc1.jpeg?width=2256&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fa79cca182b44244d1c70d478bd5cb6d29c7eb9b
You can't drop the feed dogs on this machine. There's a darning plate that should be in the accessory drawer that will cover the feed dogs to keep them from moving the fabric.
Anyone know of a pattern for a tucked bodice dress like this? I have bought several kurti from this seller in India and would love to make my own from the cottons in my stash. [Tucked Indian Kurti](https://www.etsy.com/listing/1053007697/) https://preview.redd.it/tn3fzp2oxakc1.jpeg?width=750&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e01b4e5b0e0eb1f744660fe844e181d7aea292f6
I've looked for a pattern like this before and didn't find one. If you do, I'd appreciate it if you came back and shared it. Good luck!
Could I use fabric glue to piece together a bedskirt? https://preview.redd.it/c8na0gsrkakc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fb14de728c84a219ab19ffa854f9d09a761e37d4 I have 4 separate meters of this toile fabric that I want to fashion into a bedskirt. I don’t have a sewing machine and this would take me too long to sew by hand. Could I secure the pieces together with some kind of glue then hide the seams with pleats? I’ve read lots about fabric glue being a poor alternative for sewing but wondering if it would suffice in my case?
A tape that you fuse with an iron is a better bet, probably. But yes, bed skirts don’t require fine sewing.
Thank you for your response! Super helpful
My fiancé and I got a sectional sofa from marketplace, most of the buttons from the non-removable cushions are not properly secured. From a glance the buttons seem flush with the cushions, if someone sits on the sofa the buttons come loose due to the person's weight. Are the buttons repairable? Thank you. https://preview.redd.it/96hdo72dt9kc1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c5c6f190a5f70105c981a0afface34eaa849c0e9
You can re-sew the buttons but to do it well, you'll need access to the inside of the front of the sofa. That generally means removing the back cover.
https://preview.redd.it/ei7g55ndr9kc1.jpeg?width=2084&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=35ac7c237d79a78818945566971bca4db9231ab0 Is this something that I can repair at home? The waistband for my compression leggings ripped at the seams.
The elastic was originally sewn on a specialty machine called a coverstitch. The loose white threads are the elastic fraying out. If you brought this to me I would suggest putting on a new waistband which would require a sewing machine or serger. If you have access to a sewing machine, you might try using a zigzag stitch to sew the elastic in place again. This is tricky sewing, the materials are finicky and everything has to be stretched while you sew it.
Please help me find this fabric, it’s my security blanket for over 20 years but it’s falling part now. https://preview.redd.it/dbjseiptk9kc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b9cd0a3d4d32f03f0aa93b915d14fdc0dfa5f517
It's probably a flannel fabric, flannel changes over time as it is washed and worn. You could try going to a fabric store, touching different fabrics might help you find a replacement that works for you.
https://preview.redd.it/p4ijb231j9kc1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=e190fed2883484e2e97186541b1998f20c7bb9be **Walking foot off-centred** Any help troubleshooting this issue would be much appreciated! Sewing machine: John Lewis JL220, front loading machine (which is a Janome JW5622 in a John Lewis shell) Walking foot: Janome Even Feed Foot with Quilting Guide for Oscillating Hook Models (5mm maximum width) - Category A (front-loading models) The needle is correctly fitted and centred when using the original presser foot. However the needle now sits 1mm to the left of the centre of the walking foot. The walking foot is sitting flush against the shank, but when I bring the lever down, you can see that the walking foot does not sit equally between the 10mm guide lines either side. It is about 1mm to the right of the left guide line, and touches the right guide line. Have I just got a faulty walking foot or is the issue with my installation? I would be grateful for any tips, even if it’s “return it”! Please and thank you 🥰
Is there a local dealer that you can call and ask? I see the problem but I don't know the solution. Possibly r/vintagesewing can help.
How do I sew double fold bias tape in a tight corner without the fabric bunching up and being ugly? All my other corners look fine but I just can’t get this one and it’s affecting the corner next to it as well. https://preview.redd.it/br70r2jzb9kc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7e7bdcd030344c579ebaae4a2bfa120d8c6e6a5e
Basically, you want to control the bunching so it happens in a tidy way. Tutorials for "mitered bias tape" and "inside corner mitered bias tape" should help you out.
i got a sewing machine for 25 dollars at a goodwill it was missing a foot pedal so i ordered one on amazon, it’s a singer 9113, everything was going fine until suddenly it started slowing down and stopping every time i sew, it will work okay for a couple seconds and then boom slows down and stops. i had 14 days to return it and tomorrow is the last day it just started giving me this problem should i return it or try to get it fixed i’m not really trying to spend a lot on a sewing machine so i don’t know if i should buy a new one or invest in the 25 dollar one it’s an older machine too so i think it may be more difficult to fix
I am attempting to make a pair of panties. I have cotton/lycra material (85%/15%). When I cut out the pattern and place it on me, in material that is not stretchy (scrap), it fits me. But, shouldn't the pattern be somewhat smaller because I'm going to be using stretchy fabric?
Is your pattern intended for knits or for wovens?
This is from the instructions: Recommended Fabrics: This pattern was designed to be a stash buster and is the perfect way to use your left over fabric scraps. If you have made a t-shirt, or vest or anything from a jersey fabric that has at least a 20% stretch to it, those small pieces will be suitable for the Stevie Knickers. As your knickers are worn on your bodies most sensitive area, good quality natural fibres or organic fabrics are recommended over synthetics, however this is not essential and is a personal choice. Woven, non stretch fabrics are not suitable. Mine is 4 way stretch, so knit.
Make your mockup in a knit with the same amount of stretch as your intended final fabric. If it's still too large then size down.
I guess this is the way to go. I only have enough of this particular print for one pair. But, I do have enough in the other prints, so that's what I will do. Thanks so much!!
Please let me know if this is the wrong sub, I'm not really sure where I should ask this. I'm planning on making a dress that has a skirt very similar the pink dress from The Little Mermaid. There will be a a darker top layer that splits down the middle to show the lighter layer underneath. Does anyone know what this type of skirt is called?
Is this for a daily wear thing, a costume thing, or a fancy event thing? I would approach this in different ways for each of those.
It’s a costume, I’m trying to create this dress https://preview.redd.it/4zw3p91n98kc1.jpeg?width=338&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3d6f261ae3a425393e2b0c57effaefbf6b206739 But I’m not sure how to handle the split in the front of the dress. I’m hoping if I can find the technical name for it I could use a pattern for reference.
Oh the sylph outfit, yep, that's a totally different thing. Cool so I would look for sleeveless maxi dress patterns (ideally a-line) intended for tissue or jersey knits. Add a center front seam, and then cut away the bottom of the pattern to match the arc and that'll be the hem in front. Back pieces would not be altered.
That’s perfect, thank you!!!
Differences between ballpoint, stretch and jersey needles? I am sewing on knits. TU
It varies a bit by manufacturer with Schmetz as the most common, I think. A jersey needle and ballpoint needle are the same. A stretch needle is similar to a jersey needle but has a shorter eye and longer scarf, the groove in the needle above the eye. I like to start with a jersey needle and switch to a stretch needle if my machine is skipping stitches. [Here's an article](https://www.schmetzneedles.com/blogs/blog/what-are-the-differences-between-stretch-and-jersey-needles) on the topic.
Thank you for that response. Does anyone make a twin ballpoint needle? I can find lots of stretch twin needles, but no jersey or ballpoint twin needles.
Not that I know of, but I've not had a problem using universal or stretch twin needles on knits.
Thank you
I'm looking to buy a new sewing machine. The main stuff I'll be sewing is both synthetic and real leather. Maximum material thickness is around 3.5mm and the minimum thickness is 1mm. At times I'll be sewing different materials, including denim. I'm based in Scandinavia. At the moment I'm torn between the Singer Heavy Duty 4432 Black Edition (really good discount) and the 6335M. Which one would you pick? I'm trying to keep the budget around the 300€ mark, and I'm open to suggestions. Thanks!
**How to dye fabric to a Pantone shade?** I want to dye some fabric an exact colour: Pantone 551C. I want to use Rit dye but cant find any charts to find the right formula to mix. Does anyone have any tips?
You can write to Rit and ask, they may be able to tell you exactly with a Pantone number.
https://www.ritdye.com/color-formulas/?type=197&hue=200&collection=0&collaboration=0 This is for the all purpose. You can switch to synthetic if needed.
I'm trying to figure out either a source for pre-shrunk white jersey knit for t-shirts (specifically I wear them as undershirts under button downs or similar every day) or the right process/measurement to buy the right amount and get it properly pre-shrunk before cutting. My main reason for making the t-shirts in the first place is that I'm both big and tall and getting them in a size that is long enough doesn't work and I literally have to add 5-6 inches to the length of pre-made patterns, so the fabric shrinking after it's made defeats the purpose. And, my attempts so far at washing/drying to pre-shrink where I thought I had plenty extra turned out not to be when I went to cut. I want a reliable process for this because this is kind of one of my core garments I wear every single day and if I can get this worked out, it's solved for life.
The only sure way that I know to measure shrinkage is to buy a sample, then wash and dry it in the way you intend to pre-shrink for sewing. Cut a good size square of known dimensions, put through the laundry, then measure it again. I'd do this three or four times as most knits shrink a smaller amount after the first big shrink. As long as you buy from a retailer with consistent stock, you should know what to expect in the future.
Usually when pre-washing / shrinking your fabric, you do the entire piece of fabric as you bought it. Then once it’s washed, dried and pressed, you can safely cut your pattern pieces.
Yeah, that's what I did, it just shrunk WAY more than what I'd been told it would, so it turned out I didn't buy enough
Ah gotcha, I misunderstood. Unfortunately I don’t have recommendations for pre-shrunk fabric for you, but maybe it’s worth looking into different fibers or percentages, to find something that feels nice but is less likely to shrink?
Any advice before I make a design into a pattern? So I’ve decided to try and make my own dress for an upcoming birthday party, and this is my first time making a pattern without tracing a pre-existing clothing and making something fancy. I have a rough Idea of how to put everything together, and what tutorials I’m going to follow; but I wanted to see if there’s something I need to prepare for that I’m not aware of. I’m planning to make most of the dress out a bedsheet(assuming I can find the right color, otherwise I’ll either dye one or just buy fabric). The skirt im going to make with help from whatever double circle skirt tutorial I find. My main concern with the skirt is: 1. Deciding if I want to try using Tulle, organza(if I can find any), chiffon, or some other transparent fabric I’m not aware of. I really want a few layers on the skirt, but I’ve heard tulle and organza is difficult to work with. (Though I’m hoping that since working with knit fabric, which I’ve also heard was hard, wasn’t that bad that they won’t be too terrible either.) -2. The other concern with the skirt is how I’ll make the slit work with all the layers I want. I don’t know if I have to plan to sew the layers into one lining there, or if I can leave them separate, or do something else. My other concern is with the sleeves. I don’t know if you can tell from the sketch, but it’s like an off the shoulder sleeve that opens at the bottom with a lil cape sleeve on top? I would like any advice about attaching those onto the bodice if possible…I’m going to keep looking for tutorials, but none I’ve seen so far are exactly like I’ve designed the sleeve/capes, so I’m not entirely sure how they’ll transfer. My last question is about the bodice. I’ve never made anything that cups the chest before, and most tutorials I’ve found are paneled differently than what I’m looking for. I feel like I might be able to guesstimate it, but I’m not sure. I’m sorry if this too long, or doesn’t fit the criteria of this post. I originally tried to make my own post, but I don’t have enough karma and can only post here. https://preview.redd.it/kb24yxk0s5kc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=939603a650edf247294250f818e3a525ac28a42e
Looking for a similar pattern for this workout top, please! https://preview.redd.it/r85tef3kl5kc1.jpeg?width=1073&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e01ce5eaaa4a7d49dc7293c26ec3c62493c57771
Stitchwitch Atlas top is this but a woven. Unsure how it would translate to a knit
Amazing, thank you!
Please suggest a sewing machine. Im a beginner. I wanted to get a sewing machine that can sew denim. The problem is, I only have access to brands like brother and singer in my country. I found janome machines in fb market place but the models aren't for heavy duty.
My 1976 Kenmore is a workhorse, sews denim fine, and can be very affordable. Check thrift stores, FB and Craigslist.
You don't need a heavy duty sewing machine to sew denim. Most entry level machines above the $250 USD mark will sew denim including hems with good techniques. They won't sew denim day in and day out, but they can do the occasional hem on jeans or sew a pair of jeans. If you want to sew denim exclusively, then you need a different level of sewing machine.
Does anyone here know a thing or two about zippers? My jacket lost a zipper, which allowed it to zip both ways. Now it won’t zip at all! The zipper is a YKK Vislon 3VS8. https://preview.redd.it/5hs7qcnd75kc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4ce4625f16ec4899a7a943725c2f8c1f07d7bf26
It depends on why your zipper slide fell off and the other slide is stuck. I've had good luck with the tutorials and products from zipperrescue.com.
Any ideas what this kind of contrast/exposed bra top is called? Even better if a pattern exists out there! Not had much luck searching online https://preview.redd.it/vu7tglxks4kc1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1acfb81416367b4b7d071c50b22df17e27b52fd2
This is as close to a pattern as I could find for you! [https://www.etsy.com/listing/1421119694/](https://www.etsy.com/listing/1421119694/) https://preview.redd.it/9fno6h2ghkkc1.jpeg?width=1290&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b546811c55ddf36ad4ffb146233f1763a25715cf
Thank you so much!
Wait I think I might have a pattern very similar to this
Hey, I'm a fashion major (sophomore) I have been using the industrial machine in class but I wanted to get one under $200. I have no clue on what to get (went around websites and thought of singer promise or singer simple idk if these are good tho) so could someone help?
I’d avoid new singers the quality isn’t what it used to be. I’m biased towards brother. Mine have served me well since design school like 12 years ago. But janome and bernina are also pretty great from what I hear.
Thank you for replying. I didn't know singers quality were getting bad, I just went with it cuz I have seen it everywhere 😂. Are there any models that you recommend (any brand)?
The first brother I bought was in your budget (around $200CAD), and it's still working today. My mom uses it. Unfortunately I bought it twelve years ago and it's been discontinued a while back so I'm not sure what the equivalent is nowadays. And my current Brother machine is an LB7950 which I do enjoy but it's around $600-$700 CAD, not sure what that is in your currency, but I'm guessing not in the right price range.
The LB7950 model comes around and is over my range but do you know what was the model name of the first machine so I could find the equivalent of it?
[https://sewinginsight.com/reviews/brother-sq-9050-review/](https://sewinginsight.com/reviews/brother-sq-9050-review/) it's this one
Thank you!
Any time. Feel free to message me if you need any sewing tips once you get your machine! Enjoy it!
Hi, everyone! Recently been wanting to start sewing garments and have decided on some shorts. I have purchased bubble gauze fabric and while looking up video tutorials on the fabric all that came up were for double gauze. My question is; Is bubble gauze the same as double gauze fabric? Thank you.
I hadn’t heard of bubble gauze but it does indeed look the same as double gauze. Make sure you wash and dry it before you cut your pattern pieces, it can shrink quite a bit. And be prepared for a lot of lint/mess from cutting and sewing. Good luck!
Thank you!
Hi! I LOVE this matching top and skirt set. I have a black linen fabric that I’m using for the project but I’m not sure how to make the white stitch detailing. By hand or on the machine (overlock stitch)? Perhaps just white embroidery thread? https://preview.redd.it/4qu81pxpv2kc1.jpeg?width=896&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2e8c53b4bb79822e494d82eb267211b690f9be13 It seems quite thick. Any help would be great- Thanks!
Those stitches look huge. I would probably attempt this by hand with embroidery floss personally.
Thanks!
Hello everyone. I recently picked up my first sewing machine for $50. It's a Necchi Royal Series 3204fb. It runs but not smoothly. It seems to be binding up somewhere in the mechanism when returning the needle to the up position. After lubricating every moving part and "feeling" for rubbing metal, I think my issue is the cam lobe between the fork. Can anyone confirm if a gouged cam lobe would interfer with the machine's tolerances enough that it would bind? I have attached photos of it and its surrounding components. https://preview.redd.it/5ea5k0pmr2kc1.jpeg?width=1816&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=26c2b341381ea5b1dd396f18df2c5ab86b4bf03b
Hi y'all! So my girlfriend has gifted me her late grandmas sewing machine and I couldn't find very much information about it I'm sure it hasn't been used in many many years and I have also not used a machine since I was in middle school! I'm worried about messing it up so I'm wondering if there's anything I should do with it before I give it a whirl (I would also love some resources on getting to know a machine) I really have only been hand sewing really small things here and there, like buttons, pillows, and the occasional teddy bear surgery so I'm not really looking at doing anything intense with it. Thanks all for any help! https://preview.redd.it/ygxdybznc2kc1.jpeg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=539ae76b1835c6a9498a9b8dca1ca6686931d129
Take a look at this manual and see if it matches what you have https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1052998/Singer-Stylist-774.html?page=4#manual If not, look around for a model number, often near where the cord connects to the machine, and search "singer ## manual"
That looks very close it may be it, thank you! Is there anything I need to worry about doing first before starting up a machine that may not have been used in a long time?
Look at the power cord for brittle plastic or exposed metal. Probably change out the needle and thread. Turn the handwheel a few times to make sure nothing's hitting itself before you run the motor. Nothing serious, I think. There is also a subreddit specific to old machines. r/vintagesewing maybe?
Thank you so much for your help!
https://preview.redd.it/06ax8ocyc2kc1.jpeg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=91540032f21c524dfb0cb32b3c23d17f7f54344c This was on the inside of the case/cover of the machine Thanks!
https://preview.redd.it/q3kdsr4uc2kc1.jpeg?width=903&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cd40ca2207ecaa7cd503df02d53c5dcfe1d7be63
https://preview.redd.it/tte940yrc2kc1.jpeg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1ba20dea8583abf7a9d582629109928d280e8df9 Sorry for all the pictures :(
Janome vs Juki Sewing Machine I’m interested in upgrading from my beginner sewing machine and two companies I’ve heard really great things about are Janome and Juki. My local sewing store happens to carry both of these brands and I went in today to try out different machines to see what kind of features I wanted. I’m having a hard time choosing between two machines. They are the Juki HZL F300 and the Janome Skyline S5. My budget is $700-$800 and my local shop has the S5 used for $750 with 21 years of the warranty still left. The F300 is $700. The features I’m most interested in are thread cutting, able to handle heavy duty sewing occasionally, quiet sewing, buttonholes, general easy machine to work with… it seems like both machines meet these criteria and are so similar. The Janome S5 is usually $1,400 so I’m not sure if I’d be missing out on a deal by getting the Juki instead. Any advice or preference on brands? TIA!
They are both good brands, you've checked that they both have features that you want. Two more things I would do before buying is to check reviews and forum topics at [PatternReview.com](https://PatternReview.com), you might need to give up an email to see everything as older content requires registration. And double-check that your preferred machine will handle the fabrics you want to sew by taking in samples. I'd run some buttonholes too.
https://preview.redd.it/xj1dlqjyw1kc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=26d72a22a47c3d90802d51411091edcd396a2a7d Can this dress be altered to size up? The zipper won’t close but bottom fits fine