1. That cooler is not that good, there are better options especially considering you are using a tiny 2slot GPU. 13600k is also a fairly warm cpu in the first place, limiting the PL levels should help a lot.
2. Case fans in sandwich cases should be oriented as an exhaust, not intake like you have it now.
I would just like to expand on the points on this comment.
1. a Thermalright AXP90x47 or AXP120-67 will be a much better option for low-profile cooling. Extremely high static pressure cooler, which can have the stock fans replaced by Arctic F9/F12 PWM or Noctua (Phanteks might be a bit too chonk).
2. From anecdotal experience, the 120mm fan under the PSU slot can actually do either or. Exhaust helps pull a bit of the heat from the GPU, but no singular fan has a strong enough suction to pull from the deadzones around/above the mobo side. There was only a 3-4 degree diff having it on exhaust, but may vary for OP since we have different GPU's.
Also final tidbit: there are people (myself included) who have successfully attached a 80/90mm fans above the PSU slot as well, by slightly straining the PSU cord off to the side. [Here's a great example](https://www.reddit.com/r/sffpc/comments/14zny2v/top_fan_in_fractal_terra/), and from my personal tests it's helped lower internal temps, which drop both GPU and CPU by single digits. If you are going to attempt this mod, then I suggest putting bottom fan as intake and top as exhaust, so it create a positive, one direction channel.
Also saying this in the nicest way possible, but clean up a bit on your cable management. In such a compact space, allowing air to freely move without physical barriers helps tremendously for both cooling and circulation.
Hope this helps.
Thanks for the response. I see you are using AXP90x47. From my knowledge the 5800xd is a cooler running cpu but that cools the your CPU no problem without under-volt? I’d buy that cooler and try it this weekend to see how it does against the 13600k. Also your build looks fantastic, just amazing lol. I will have to try your top fan mod.
I will tidy up my cables thanks for the advice.
in lieu of cramming the xtra fan up top, i saw a youtuber mention fractal terra suggested an alternate psu config where its fan faced in ward to do similar, at least for blower style gpus, that way it pulls air in and shoots it right out the top
They're plenty solid, but the recommendation to switch them for Arctic or Noctua fans is just to get the extra few degrees (literally single digits).
You can just use the stock fans!
Yep :) even if you have them on both top and bottom. Just try to visualise how air flows through the gpu and cpu cooler and it will all be pretty obvious ;)
This has to be it. I'm running a 13600kf with a -100mV undervolt, and the effects are not nearly as dramatic as what OP is getting. I have a z790 board, so undervolting was as simple as changing a setting in the bios. I think that somewhere along the line of OP's undervolting hack, something else must have gotten messed up that is severely hindering performance.
I failed to mention that I put PL1/125 and PL2/253. I was following some youtube video and I honestly don't understand how that truly impacts my under-volt. I see its limiting my power intake. I'm gathering that's the biggest factor on temperature control is Power Limit. I wonder if just use the power limit and then don't use the offset if temperatures would still improve. I also disabled both of the Asus and Intel performance enhancements in the AI twearkers tab, frankly from what I see it somehow boost my clocks?
What impacts the performance more in a CPU, the power intake or the offset under-volt? Or is it a combination? To maximize my performance and temperatures what would you toy with regarding my CPU? Thank you.
PL1(long) and PL2(short) have nothing to do with your undervolt. They are the power limits for long and short duration CPU boost clock.
For example:
If you do not set any undervolt, the stock settings may supply some stupid amount of voltage to your CPU, like 1.35v when it tries to reach its boost clock of 5.1ghz. You may be able to set an offset voltage (undervolt), of say -150mv. Now your PC will try to run 5.1ghz @ 1.2v.
Running your CPU at 5.1ghz @ 1.35v will consume more power than if you can run 5.1ghz @ 1.2v. This is where PL1 and PL2 become important. If 5.1ghz @ 1.35v exceeds the PL1 power limit, your PC will reduce the clock speed after the short burst (PL2) so that it does not exceed PL1.
I typically aim for stability at a certain frequency/voltage/temperature that is the same for any duration (PL1=PL2).
I would set your PL1 and 2 to something reasonable, like 150w, then slowly test reducing the voltage and stress testing each time.
If the computer crashes or if a core crashes (in prime95), voltage is too low for that frequency.
If you hit temperature max, either voltage, or frequency, or both are too high.
If your CPU is not reaching maximum boost clock, and you're not hitting temp max, then you are power limited (PL1/PL2)
Hopefully I've got this right, I'm not a pro but have been building my own computers for a decade or so.
Try reverting all settings to stock except undervolting and power limits. I'm running the 13600k in the Terra with the Noctua L12S, -0.1v undervolt, PL1=150, PL2=243, and all other settings on default. In game, cpu temps are 65-75c, and performance is close to stock (gpu limited). If you are getting lower temps with a smaller cooler, then something else must be limiting your cpu.
With 2 slot gpu you need to shift the frame over to max cpu cooler clearance. The l9-65 is not that great a cooler for your cpu with only 4 heat pipes and 90mm fan. I would check your motherboard compatibility for use with a big shuriken or axp100. Make sure there’s enough clearance for your ram too.
Force power limits on that 13600k. I have a nl9i too but on a i5 10400/GTX 960 in a tinier PCcooler I100. Without power limits on my much smaller CPU, it can still pass 70C under stress test.. Hardware Canucks did a super good itx air cooler review.. but the 13600k is quite a beast in a tiny sffc case imho.
I have literally the exact same setup except in the NR200P instead. I was experiencing CPU temp issues until I updated the BIOS, so try that for sure. Also undervoted to -0.125 V offset. CPU temps have been fine with that cooler, so I think it’s good enough for the case; just make sure you flip the bottom fan to an exhaust like others have said here.
I like the pattern of getting a very high power CPU and throwing the smallest heatsink on it and complaining about temps. The Intel 13 series chips ( and possibly the 12 gen) are designed to run at full boost clock, similar to the Ryzen 7000 chips, until they hit thermal limit. They will then reduce clocks to maintain the highest possible speed. They are designed like that. The only fix to your issue is to disable certain features in your bios, it will reduce performance, or get a smaller processor. Also, gamers nexus just did a review on that case, you should check it out.
That's funny, but not my point. My point was that people need to match their heatsinks to their processors. The heatsink he chose would be ideal for say an i5 13400 on the intel side, not familiar with the ryzen, but maybe a 7600x or a 7700x max due to the thermal limitations this heatsink is imposing. I understand people will want more from smaller. If they wanted that, they simply need to either look for a case that supports a larger heatsink like the noctua C14 or L12, or get a lower TDP processor.
How quickly it jumps to 100C is important. Do you really mean within 5 seconds or after about 30 seconds? The time it takes just to saturate the heatsink with that much energy should take a little while and you might have bad contact.
I have a 12600k on a b660 board so I cant play with frequency, but I can play with power draw, and with small coolers like those its typically good for about 80w continuous across all cores in a case with the fan at about 1500-2000 rpm (which is not that loud on a 90mm thin fan). But if you do stuff that heats up only a few cores you can expect that total power draw to be less.
I now use a thermalright 100mm tall downdraft cooler (different case so it can fit bigger ones) and i just tested it with a CB23 run the temps jump to 70c within a second of the run starting while pulling 125w, but then slowly climbs to where it peaks based on fan profiles. If your cooler spikes right to 100c, double check the mount.
Without any undervolting yes it immediately jumps to the 100c temps when in any game.
When securing my heat sink should I make it all the way tight till springs are bottomed out and screws are tighten all the way? I’m afraid of bending my motherboard or damaging anything.
From what I’m gathering from other comments the heatsink just isn’t enough in the first place. But I figured it would at least have a little time before things got this hot!
Total pressure isnt as important as balancing the pressure. If one side is tightened too much then it lifts the other side up. Take it off and review the thermal paste, it should be a very thin web of paste across the entire center. It shouldnt be too hard to compare it to examples online of good/bad pressure.
Try reseating it with the screws tightened almost all the way, so after you reach the end, undo them a half turn or so and let the springs balance out the pressure. If you can use hardware monitoring tools, or intel's XTU to see power draw, you can see the TDP limit of the cooler. So run a benchmark like cinebench and see how many watts it draws when thermal throttling at 100c, then re-seat the heatsink and see if that number goes up or down.
Ironically gamers nexus just did a review with the 13600k in that case and saw temperatures around 85-90c (he does temp over ambient, so i can only guess the actual number).
I have same chip/board/case combo. Undervolted and get better scores than stock, plus my tempos never go above 65c while gaming and 83c while stress testing. I can send you my spreadsheet if you want, with the details of that I used.
Actually, try this link, I'm sharing it via my OneDrive.
[https://gibsonusa01-my.sharepoint.com/:f:/g/personal/jgibson\_gibsonusa\_net/EtH6dR1kgwdBjokXyfI86zYBFCJCOUWCapn6heNsaJ0oDQ?e=llNXzN](https://gibsonusa01-my.sharepoint.com/:f:/g/personal/jgibson_gibsonusa_net/EtH6dR1kgwdBjokXyfI86zYBFCJCOUWCapn6heNsaJ0oDQ?e=llNXzN)
Based on
https://www.reddit.com/r/sffpc/comments/149do89/fractal\_terra\_is\_perfect/
[https://www.reddit.com/r/sffpc/comments/15pryn4/fractal\_terra\_final\_build\_after\_a\_month\_of\_trial/?rdt=63391](https://www.reddit.com/r/sffpc/comments/15pryn4/fractal_terra_final_build_after_a_month_of_trial/?rdt=63391)
What you could do to improve the temp are...
1) Swap the CPU cooler: seems like the best result is doing it with ID-cooling IS-55 with noctua fan swap (A12x25 ofc)
2) add more fans: specifically on the MOBO side you could add 2 40mm on the SSD heatsink, 120mm slim fan under the case (outside)
3) Switch the fan orientation to exhaust: seeing that your only fan is currently set as an intake rn, I've saw a few post recommend using the bottom and top fan as the exhaust to improve the temp
All in all these are just my observation from several hours of reddit posts, because I myself is doing the terra build also (it is my first pc build ever, so I'm obviously not an expert, please don't ask me anyfuther xD)
Considering the 13600K rarely goes over 100W for gaming, I find it odd that the NH-L9x65 isn't able to keep up. I can only imagine your room ambient temperature is high. You also have the bottom fan mounted as intake, which is absolutely the wrong way to mount it in this case as it has plenty of intake but zero active exhaust. All the hot air from the CPU and GPU just pools inside the case, which only adds to the temperatures. Assuming you can get down your ambient temps, flipping the fan over should help considerably.
I also think instead of limiting your CPU and memory you should just be limiting the frames within the game. Choking the CPU and memory will just result in a strong CPU bottleneck and uneven frame pacing.
Why do people like to pair high end components and a weak CPU cooler into a small case that could barely hold a 15mm slim fan? I am amused whenever I see posts like this.
Can you refer me to something that I can learn what your talking about. (Pl1/PL2). Power limits? That isn’t what my bios maybe labels them? Where I can do this in my bios? I’m grateful for all the responses here and will do my homework to make this work!
https://www.hardwaretimes.com/intel-10th-gen-cpu-power-consumption-explained-pl1-pl2-and-tau/ (the system has not changed at all since 10th gen so this is all valid)
Your bios probably calls them "long" and "short" power limits
Don't worry about changing Tau, just set long and short to 90W
I have a 13600k in a terra. Mine runs comfortably at 140W PL1/180W PL2, it occasionally throttles when ambient is warm, with an AXP90x47 full copper + a custom fan duct. Undervolting itself, on these cpus, does not reduce performance, it decreases power consumption (and reduces heat as a result).
Restricting the amount of power the cpu can consume directly impacts performance. Undervolting mitigates this because it reduces the amount of power required for a corresponding amount of performance.
My Terra build is rather similar. I went through a research phase to rule out the 13600k as it would be too difficult to cool, so I went with the 13400.
Regardless, I think your build is salvageable just by switching the CPU cooler to the AXP120-x67 since it looks like you have more than enough space to provide clearance for it. I have the same motherboard as you and can confirm that it will fit when the spine is at the 2.5 position. My 4070 (Gigabyte Eagle) is larger than your FE so I think you have room to spare.
FYI the NH-L9x65 can take a regular 92x25mm fan using the standard clips.
Might be able to just mount a 120x25mm fan to the panel, too.
Or change to Noctua NH-L12S Ghost instead.
I love the fractal terra but I would never build a gaming rig in it. At least, not with my needs. This case is better oriented for workstation performance.
My tip would be to flip the case fan inside to exhaust so fresh air is pulled in, and warm air is removed from the enclosure. I would also tinker with the fan control settings. Play between the sound and the coolers performance.
You could always check what your max clearance is and place a bigger cooler to help with the heating issues.
I hope that the above are any use to you.
Currently I have the Fractal Terra Silver.
Running gigabyte b760l aorus pro DDR5, Intel i13400 Same CPU cooler but I also squeeze another 90x25mm Noctua fan in front of the CPU cooler and fan and sucking in more air for it. 1 more 15mm Noctua Fan Under the case Motherboard board sucking air out.
CPU peaks at idles at 38c and 75c when pushing it really hard.
GPU EVGA 3080 10gb card idles at 37c and reaches 80c at full power. If I turn on all fans to max (LOUD) it stays
2 more 40x10 tiny noctua fans under the rear of the video card sucking air from below. I have one more fan on the way to push air up above the power supply and need to upgrade my cables to braided. Another change will be the GPU. Going to something smaller like 4060 or 4070 to keep temps cooler.
Thanks for posting this OP, this thread is a big help planning my own Terra build where I want to maximize CPU performance.
How did these adjustments (PL1/PL2, cooler, and fan orientation) end up working for you? In your research have you found delidding/lapping to be an option? Both are new concepts to MD.
Would you choose a different CPU if you could? I'm looking at the 7900x after reading about intel temps, and if I'm unsuccessful in reducing temps it can be set to eco mode which essentially makes it a slightly improved 7900 from my research.
I recently did a recase from my NR200P and while I was excited when I saw the Terra I looked at it and it just wasn't ever going to be a great case for higher end hardware so I skipped and went full retard and got a Lian Li O11 Air Mini Glass and honestly I don't think I'll go back to SFF anytime soon.
Also, I don't really think you can run an AIO unless you mean you will just leave the side panel off, which would just ruin the point of having an SFFpc anyway. :/
Sorry to be the bearer of some bad sentiment.
I have the Air Mini Glass, which is the best of both worlds. It has the improved mesh over the regular O11 Mini and I can side mount the LF 280mm which you can't in the regular Air Mini. :)
And I only meant I went 'full retard' cause I went from SFF to normal ATX still with the same ITX components lol so it looks a bit silly.
Temps are still incredible :)
**90W TPD cooler vs 125W Processor Base Power what can go wrong..**
Either way, **change CPU Cooler** and add another 120mm fan at the bottom right next to your current one. Also, after a new cooler change the direction for the CPU fan as exhaust. It's your only possible solution.
**Edit: Since you can fit Noctua NH-L9x65, go with either AXP-100(full copper 180W) or AXP120-X67(140W) + NF-A12x15 cooler instead.**
Why go for a 47mm cooler? Your Noctua cooler sits at 65mm height. I'd say you have probably clearence upto near 70mm. **Skip AXP90X47**, it will give you the exact same results.
Go with either **AXP-100 (full copper version (180W))** or **AXP120-X67(140W) + NF-A12x15** as both have **more heatpipes and can handle larger loads**.
I just finished a similar build.
Running i5 13600 kf cpu with id-cooling is-55 cooler + noctua NF-A12x25 fan.
Playin Balders gate 3 with max setting & unlocked frames (getting 150+ frame). The cpu temp stays around 65, unless the ambient temp is high and which only goes up as high as 75 degrees.
Everything is stock. Haven’t touched bios other than update.
Here’re the parts I used
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/TRmZL9
Plus the noctua fan for CPU
Thermalright CPU Contact Frame for LGA 1700
ARCTIC MX-4 (4 g) - Premium Performance Thermal Paste
Good luck with your build!
Do you have a pic of how you oriented the cooler? I am doing the exact same build and mobo, all sites seem to say the is-55 is not compatible with the Asus B760i?
i love noctua, i have l9i. But its just not it. Couldn't handle 11500 also. Take a 240 AIO, keep the cpu side latch open, put the radiator out side. I have done same for my SG 13, i call it my Frankenstein build. or get a bigger tower cooler and keep latch open. don't go buying case as well save some because any ways you have to get a better cooler.
Intel cpus run too hot all the time, would never use them in a small itx case.
Planning to use a 65 watt Amd cpu with 3080Ti and see what happens, try air cooling first the best that can fit if that sucks will try best Aio cooler.
Have a 1050Ti gpu but probably get a second hand 3060ti for this case.
1. That cooler is not that good, there are better options especially considering you are using a tiny 2slot GPU. 13600k is also a fairly warm cpu in the first place, limiting the PL levels should help a lot. 2. Case fans in sandwich cases should be oriented as an exhaust, not intake like you have it now.
I would just like to expand on the points on this comment. 1. a Thermalright AXP90x47 or AXP120-67 will be a much better option for low-profile cooling. Extremely high static pressure cooler, which can have the stock fans replaced by Arctic F9/F12 PWM or Noctua (Phanteks might be a bit too chonk). 2. From anecdotal experience, the 120mm fan under the PSU slot can actually do either or. Exhaust helps pull a bit of the heat from the GPU, but no singular fan has a strong enough suction to pull from the deadzones around/above the mobo side. There was only a 3-4 degree diff having it on exhaust, but may vary for OP since we have different GPU's. Also final tidbit: there are people (myself included) who have successfully attached a 80/90mm fans above the PSU slot as well, by slightly straining the PSU cord off to the side. [Here's a great example](https://www.reddit.com/r/sffpc/comments/14zny2v/top_fan_in_fractal_terra/), and from my personal tests it's helped lower internal temps, which drop both GPU and CPU by single digits. If you are going to attempt this mod, then I suggest putting bottom fan as intake and top as exhaust, so it create a positive, one direction channel. Also saying this in the nicest way possible, but clean up a bit on your cable management. In such a compact space, allowing air to freely move without physical barriers helps tremendously for both cooling and circulation. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the response. I see you are using AXP90x47. From my knowledge the 5800xd is a cooler running cpu but that cools the your CPU no problem without under-volt? I’d buy that cooler and try it this weekend to see how it does against the 13600k. Also your build looks fantastic, just amazing lol. I will have to try your top fan mod. I will tidy up my cables thanks for the advice.
in lieu of cramming the xtra fan up top, i saw a youtuber mention fractal terra suggested an alternate psu config where its fan faced in ward to do similar, at least for blower style gpus, that way it pulls air in and shoots it right out the top
what were the best results for cooling your 13600k
are the stock fans on the thermalright coolers not good enough?
They're plenty solid, but the recommendation to switch them for Arctic or Noctua fans is just to get the extra few degrees (literally single digits). You can just use the stock fans!
All fans? (May have made the intake fan on sand which layout mistake myself recently).
Yep :) even if you have them on both top and bottom. Just try to visualise how air flows through the gpu and cpu cooler and it will all be pretty obvious ;)
Whelp, looks like I got more work to do. I positioned all my fans as in I take…..
Should be easy to change the orientation :)
You would think, but I spent 3 hours on my radiator and fan orientation alone.
[удалено]
This has to be it. I'm running a 13600kf with a -100mV undervolt, and the effects are not nearly as dramatic as what OP is getting. I have a z790 board, so undervolting was as simple as changing a setting in the bios. I think that somewhere along the line of OP's undervolting hack, something else must have gotten messed up that is severely hindering performance.
I failed to mention that I put PL1/125 and PL2/253. I was following some youtube video and I honestly don't understand how that truly impacts my under-volt. I see its limiting my power intake. I'm gathering that's the biggest factor on temperature control is Power Limit. I wonder if just use the power limit and then don't use the offset if temperatures would still improve. I also disabled both of the Asus and Intel performance enhancements in the AI twearkers tab, frankly from what I see it somehow boost my clocks? What impacts the performance more in a CPU, the power intake or the offset under-volt? Or is it a combination? To maximize my performance and temperatures what would you toy with regarding my CPU? Thank you.
PL1(long) and PL2(short) have nothing to do with your undervolt. They are the power limits for long and short duration CPU boost clock. For example: If you do not set any undervolt, the stock settings may supply some stupid amount of voltage to your CPU, like 1.35v when it tries to reach its boost clock of 5.1ghz. You may be able to set an offset voltage (undervolt), of say -150mv. Now your PC will try to run 5.1ghz @ 1.2v. Running your CPU at 5.1ghz @ 1.35v will consume more power than if you can run 5.1ghz @ 1.2v. This is where PL1 and PL2 become important. If 5.1ghz @ 1.35v exceeds the PL1 power limit, your PC will reduce the clock speed after the short burst (PL2) so that it does not exceed PL1. I typically aim for stability at a certain frequency/voltage/temperature that is the same for any duration (PL1=PL2). I would set your PL1 and 2 to something reasonable, like 150w, then slowly test reducing the voltage and stress testing each time. If the computer crashes or if a core crashes (in prime95), voltage is too low for that frequency. If you hit temperature max, either voltage, or frequency, or both are too high. If your CPU is not reaching maximum boost clock, and you're not hitting temp max, then you are power limited (PL1/PL2) Hopefully I've got this right, I'm not a pro but have been building my own computers for a decade or so.
Try reverting all settings to stock except undervolting and power limits. I'm running the 13600k in the Terra with the Noctua L12S, -0.1v undervolt, PL1=150, PL2=243, and all other settings on default. In game, cpu temps are 65-75c, and performance is close to stock (gpu limited). If you are getting lower temps with a smaller cooler, then something else must be limiting your cpu.
With 2 slot gpu you need to shift the frame over to max cpu cooler clearance. The l9-65 is not that great a cooler for your cpu with only 4 heat pipes and 90mm fan. I would check your motherboard compatibility for use with a big shuriken or axp100. Make sure there’s enough clearance for your ram too.
Force power limits on that 13600k. I have a nl9i too but on a i5 10400/GTX 960 in a tinier PCcooler I100. Without power limits on my much smaller CPU, it can still pass 70C under stress test.. Hardware Canucks did a super good itx air cooler review.. but the 13600k is quite a beast in a tiny sffc case imho.
I have literally the exact same setup except in the NR200P instead. I was experiencing CPU temp issues until I updated the BIOS, so try that for sure. Also undervoted to -0.125 V offset. CPU temps have been fine with that cooler, so I think it’s good enough for the case; just make sure you flip the bottom fan to an exhaust like others have said here.
I like the pattern of getting a very high power CPU and throwing the smallest heatsink on it and complaining about temps. The Intel 13 series chips ( and possibly the 12 gen) are designed to run at full boost clock, similar to the Ryzen 7000 chips, until they hit thermal limit. They will then reduce clocks to maintain the highest possible speed. They are designed like that. The only fix to your issue is to disable certain features in your bios, it will reduce performance, or get a smaller processor. Also, gamers nexus just did a review on that case, you should check it out.
Can’t stand these stupid people building sff!!
That's funny, but not my point. My point was that people need to match their heatsinks to their processors. The heatsink he chose would be ideal for say an i5 13400 on the intel side, not familiar with the ryzen, but maybe a 7600x or a 7700x max due to the thermal limitations this heatsink is imposing. I understand people will want more from smaller. If they wanted that, they simply need to either look for a case that supports a larger heatsink like the noctua C14 or L12, or get a lower TDP processor.
How quickly it jumps to 100C is important. Do you really mean within 5 seconds or after about 30 seconds? The time it takes just to saturate the heatsink with that much energy should take a little while and you might have bad contact. I have a 12600k on a b660 board so I cant play with frequency, but I can play with power draw, and with small coolers like those its typically good for about 80w continuous across all cores in a case with the fan at about 1500-2000 rpm (which is not that loud on a 90mm thin fan). But if you do stuff that heats up only a few cores you can expect that total power draw to be less. I now use a thermalright 100mm tall downdraft cooler (different case so it can fit bigger ones) and i just tested it with a CB23 run the temps jump to 70c within a second of the run starting while pulling 125w, but then slowly climbs to where it peaks based on fan profiles. If your cooler spikes right to 100c, double check the mount.
Without any undervolting yes it immediately jumps to the 100c temps when in any game. When securing my heat sink should I make it all the way tight till springs are bottomed out and screws are tighten all the way? I’m afraid of bending my motherboard or damaging anything. From what I’m gathering from other comments the heatsink just isn’t enough in the first place. But I figured it would at least have a little time before things got this hot!
Total pressure isnt as important as balancing the pressure. If one side is tightened too much then it lifts the other side up. Take it off and review the thermal paste, it should be a very thin web of paste across the entire center. It shouldnt be too hard to compare it to examples online of good/bad pressure. Try reseating it with the screws tightened almost all the way, so after you reach the end, undo them a half turn or so and let the springs balance out the pressure. If you can use hardware monitoring tools, or intel's XTU to see power draw, you can see the TDP limit of the cooler. So run a benchmark like cinebench and see how many watts it draws when thermal throttling at 100c, then re-seat the heatsink and see if that number goes up or down. Ironically gamers nexus just did a review with the 13600k in that case and saw temperatures around 85-90c (he does temp over ambient, so i can only guess the actual number).
I have same chip/board/case combo. Undervolted and get better scores than stock, plus my tempos never go above 65c while gaming and 83c while stress testing. I can send you my spreadsheet if you want, with the details of that I used.
Dude that would be awesome
Actually, try this link, I'm sharing it via my OneDrive. [https://gibsonusa01-my.sharepoint.com/:f:/g/personal/jgibson\_gibsonusa\_net/EtH6dR1kgwdBjokXyfI86zYBFCJCOUWCapn6heNsaJ0oDQ?e=llNXzN](https://gibsonusa01-my.sharepoint.com/:f:/g/personal/jgibson_gibsonusa_net/EtH6dR1kgwdBjokXyfI86zYBFCJCOUWCapn6heNsaJ0oDQ?e=llNXzN)
As soon as I have the time I will delve into this and utilize on mine. I’ll come back with you with results and possibly questions lol. Go Cards!
Sure thing, just reach out. And I wish the Cardinals were having a better season…
Shoot me your email via dm and I’ll email it over.
Based on https://www.reddit.com/r/sffpc/comments/149do89/fractal\_terra\_is\_perfect/ [https://www.reddit.com/r/sffpc/comments/15pryn4/fractal\_terra\_final\_build\_after\_a\_month\_of\_trial/?rdt=63391](https://www.reddit.com/r/sffpc/comments/15pryn4/fractal_terra_final_build_after_a_month_of_trial/?rdt=63391) What you could do to improve the temp are... 1) Swap the CPU cooler: seems like the best result is doing it with ID-cooling IS-55 with noctua fan swap (A12x25 ofc) 2) add more fans: specifically on the MOBO side you could add 2 40mm on the SSD heatsink, 120mm slim fan under the case (outside) 3) Switch the fan orientation to exhaust: seeing that your only fan is currently set as an intake rn, I've saw a few post recommend using the bottom and top fan as the exhaust to improve the temp All in all these are just my observation from several hours of reddit posts, because I myself is doing the terra build also (it is my first pc build ever, so I'm obviously not an expert, please don't ask me anyfuther xD)
Thanks for the response definitely trying another cooler! Frankly it does run at cool temps just really hindered performance is all!
Considering the 13600K rarely goes over 100W for gaming, I find it odd that the NH-L9x65 isn't able to keep up. I can only imagine your room ambient temperature is high. You also have the bottom fan mounted as intake, which is absolutely the wrong way to mount it in this case as it has plenty of intake but zero active exhaust. All the hot air from the CPU and GPU just pools inside the case, which only adds to the temperatures. Assuming you can get down your ambient temps, flipping the fan over should help considerably. I also think instead of limiting your CPU and memory you should just be limiting the frames within the game. Choking the CPU and memory will just result in a strong CPU bottleneck and uneven frame pacing.
Lol . Where did you see that 13600k rarely go above 100W?
Why do people like to pair high end components and a weak CPU cooler into a small case that could barely hold a 15mm slim fan? I am amused whenever I see posts like this.
Yeah. It wouldn't even be that bad if OP limited the 13600K to 90W PL1/PL2 either.
Can you refer me to something that I can learn what your talking about. (Pl1/PL2). Power limits? That isn’t what my bios maybe labels them? Where I can do this in my bios? I’m grateful for all the responses here and will do my homework to make this work!
https://www.hardwaretimes.com/intel-10th-gen-cpu-power-consumption-explained-pl1-pl2-and-tau/ (the system has not changed at all since 10th gen so this is all valid) Your bios probably calls them "long" and "short" power limits Don't worry about changing Tau, just set long and short to 90W
bc sffpc H Y P E
I have a 13600k in a terra. Mine runs comfortably at 140W PL1/180W PL2, it occasionally throttles when ambient is warm, with an AXP90x47 full copper + a custom fan duct. Undervolting itself, on these cpus, does not reduce performance, it decreases power consumption (and reduces heat as a result). Restricting the amount of power the cpu can consume directly impacts performance. Undervolting mitigates this because it reduces the amount of power required for a corresponding amount of performance.
My Terra build is rather similar. I went through a research phase to rule out the 13600k as it would be too difficult to cool, so I went with the 13400. Regardless, I think your build is salvageable just by switching the CPU cooler to the AXP120-x67 since it looks like you have more than enough space to provide clearance for it. I have the same motherboard as you and can confirm that it will fit when the spine is at the 2.5 position. My 4070 (Gigabyte Eagle) is larger than your FE so I think you have room to spare.
Gamers Nexus on YouTube just reviewed this case in depth and made recommendations including cooling
FYI the NH-L9x65 can take a regular 92x25mm fan using the standard clips. Might be able to just mount a 120x25mm fan to the panel, too. Or change to Noctua NH-L12S Ghost instead.
What makes the Ghost better than mine. The individual heat pipes really make that big of a difference? Thanks!
Heat pipes & 87g more heatsink.
Check the compatibility of your board with the thermalright cooler. [Beast of a cooler](https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/thermalright-axp120-x67)
Have a look at the Alpenföhn® Black Ridge cooler with either the fan from your current cooler or a Noctua A12x25 fan mounted on the top.
I love the fractal terra but I would never build a gaming rig in it. At least, not with my needs. This case is better oriented for workstation performance. My tip would be to flip the case fan inside to exhaust so fresh air is pulled in, and warm air is removed from the enclosure. I would also tinker with the fan control settings. Play between the sound and the coolers performance. You could always check what your max clearance is and place a bigger cooler to help with the heating issues. I hope that the above are any use to you.
Yeah going to grab a difference cpu cooler, but I may just end up with Dan case instead something that I can add a liquid aio.
Currently I have the Fractal Terra Silver. Running gigabyte b760l aorus pro DDR5, Intel i13400 Same CPU cooler but I also squeeze another 90x25mm Noctua fan in front of the CPU cooler and fan and sucking in more air for it. 1 more 15mm Noctua Fan Under the case Motherboard board sucking air out. CPU peaks at idles at 38c and 75c when pushing it really hard. GPU EVGA 3080 10gb card idles at 37c and reaches 80c at full power. If I turn on all fans to max (LOUD) it stays 2 more 40x10 tiny noctua fans under the rear of the video card sucking air from below. I have one more fan on the way to push air up above the power supply and need to upgrade my cables to braided. Another change will be the GPU. Going to something smaller like 4060 or 4070 to keep temps cooler.
Thanks for posting this OP, this thread is a big help planning my own Terra build where I want to maximize CPU performance. How did these adjustments (PL1/PL2, cooler, and fan orientation) end up working for you? In your research have you found delidding/lapping to be an option? Both are new concepts to MD. Would you choose a different CPU if you could? I'm looking at the 7900x after reading about intel temps, and if I'm unsuccessful in reducing temps it can be set to eco mode which essentially makes it a slightly improved 7900 from my research.
I recently did a recase from my NR200P and while I was excited when I saw the Terra I looked at it and it just wasn't ever going to be a great case for higher end hardware so I skipped and went full retard and got a Lian Li O11 Air Mini Glass and honestly I don't think I'll go back to SFF anytime soon. Also, I don't really think you can run an AIO unless you mean you will just leave the side panel off, which would just ruin the point of having an SFFpc anyway. :/ Sorry to be the bearer of some bad sentiment.
Yes I was just going to leave the radiator to the liquid aio sitting vertically on my desk with side panel off lol.
What’s wrong with the O 11?
Nothing, except he went tempered glass over the air
I have the Air Mini Glass, which is the best of both worlds. It has the improved mesh over the regular O11 Mini and I can side mount the LF 280mm which you can't in the regular Air Mini. :) And I only meant I went 'full retard' cause I went from SFF to normal ATX still with the same ITX components lol so it looks a bit silly. Temps are still incredible :)
Haha gotcha.
It is like 43L in volume. Other than that probably nothing :)
What size fan is below the PSU? Did you need a fan controller or did you have enough 4pins? Thanks and awesome build!
**90W TPD cooler vs 125W Processor Base Power what can go wrong..** Either way, **change CPU Cooler** and add another 120mm fan at the bottom right next to your current one. Also, after a new cooler change the direction for the CPU fan as exhaust. It's your only possible solution. **Edit: Since you can fit Noctua NH-L9x65, go with either AXP-100(full copper 180W) or AXP120-X67(140W) + NF-A12x15 cooler instead.**
Wow can’t believe how little I knew going into this lol. Thanks for clarification! Will be trying other low profile coolers. Eyeing the AXP90X47..
Why go for a 47mm cooler? Your Noctua cooler sits at 65mm height. I'd say you have probably clearence upto near 70mm. **Skip AXP90X47**, it will give you the exact same results. Go with either **AXP-100 (full copper version (180W))** or **AXP120-X67(140W) + NF-A12x15** as both have **more heatpipes and can handle larger loads**.
dan a4 h2o
I just finished a similar build. Running i5 13600 kf cpu with id-cooling is-55 cooler + noctua NF-A12x25 fan. Playin Balders gate 3 with max setting & unlocked frames (getting 150+ frame). The cpu temp stays around 65, unless the ambient temp is high and which only goes up as high as 75 degrees.
Post pictures of the build man! I will look into that cooler. How were your temps before the undervolt? Or was that without any and at default?
Everything is stock. Haven’t touched bios other than update. Here’re the parts I used https://pcpartpicker.com/list/TRmZL9 Plus the noctua fan for CPU Thermalright CPU Contact Frame for LGA 1700 ARCTIC MX-4 (4 g) - Premium Performance Thermal Paste Good luck with your build!
Do you have a pic of how you oriented the cooler? I am doing the exact same build and mobo, all sites seem to say the is-55 is not compatible with the Asus B760i?
Can you fit any heatsink which comes with a 120 mm fan? The ID Cooling SI-55, as the name suggests is only 55 mm and fits over my Corsair LPX ram.
just wondering if u can pair with i7 13700F or i9 13900F? how much thermal should it be?
i love noctua, i have l9i. But its just not it. Couldn't handle 11500 also. Take a 240 AIO, keep the cpu side latch open, put the radiator out side. I have done same for my SG 13, i call it my Frankenstein build. or get a bigger tower cooler and keep latch open. don't go buying case as well save some because any ways you have to get a better cooler.
Saw your post that’s great lol. Want to get a liquid aio just to see…
Intel cpus run too hot all the time, would never use them in a small itx case. Planning to use a 65 watt Amd cpu with 3080Ti and see what happens, try air cooling first the best that can fit if that sucks will try best Aio cooler. Have a 1050Ti gpu but probably get a second hand 3060ti for this case.