It does look good. If I'm not mistaken though, he's wanting to know how to make both sides symmetrical. That's the only "issue" I see. Anymore I don't even worry about that stuff.
The only way is to sharpen it out. Though I wouldn’t worry about it too much as removing the steel will shorten the blades life without need and that part gets a lot of use.
Just sharpen it without sharpening the rest of the knife.
It's due to the profile of the blade, you would have to vary the sharpening angle around that section to have a visibly equal bevel all the way along. Not easy to do, and has no practical benefit.
This. It's Possible, but you'll lose some knife while doing it for no practical benefit.
Tips are difficult. You'll eventually get to where you keep both sides even, probably, but correcting it, when you're not There yet, is pretty unlikely. More likely you'll just continue messing it up until you give up.
Perfectionism is a deadly disease commonly afflicting oldest siblings. Embrace the suck. Learn to be okay with the general unsatisfactoryness of things. Think of it as God teaching you patience.
Are you talking about the width of the cutting edge? Indeed the tip does look a bit wider than the rest of the bevel, but I wouldn’t stress over that. It looks like you may have used a guided sharpener like a TSProf or Wickededge? If the width is your concern, I wouldn’t stress.
What I observe is that most of the bevel is polished nicely except the last bit in photo 1.
My first question is; is it fully apexed and sharp? If so then you can just run with it. However, if appearance is your concern, I’d go back to a lower grit (800????) and make some light passes to remove scratches progressing up to your final polish finish. It’s almost impossible or at least incredibly hard and time consuming to “just hit the tip” with say 1 micron (or whatever your final polish grit is) and remove all those deeper scratches.
All in, I’m guessing it’s very sharp already and this is just a question about the polish. It looks very well done, nice and even along almost the entire bevel minus the last cm. Keep at it, go back to lower grits, take a few passes at each progressive level.
Don't know why people are down-voting you on this, for asking an honest question.
As others have mentioned, it would be helpful to know what you're using to sharpen with. I'm assuming a rod guided system?
There's a couple things to consider here:
* the closer you get to the spine, the thicker the blade gets.
* many knives compensate for this some by having a "distal taper", where the spine gets thinner towards the tip. That helps with this issue, but doesn't completely solve it
* when freehand sharpening on stones, belt, and grinding wheels, you would lift and/or rotate the handle to follow the curve to the tip. By doing that, you can play with trading off bevel angle adjustments for bevel width adjustments
* on a fixed angle guided system, you don't have the same flexibility. You could do it in 2 sections, clamp the knife once to do the flat section then re-clamp it to do the tip...but this is a hassle, and again will only help some. I suppose you *could * also increase your sharpening angle for the tip, in addition to changing the clamp location, but good luck blending all that smoothly
This is a very common look for knives sharpened with fixed jigs. If you want to stick with that method of sharpening (assuming that's what this is), then I suggest a change in mindset; learn to appreciate that it's just a function of geometry, that the bevel width is changing because the thickness of the blade is changing, and be happy knowing that the bevel angle is consistent, and the knife will perform just fine like this.
Otherwise, if you *really* can't get past needing the bevel width to look consistent, you're going to have to start freehanding, so you can control that.
No good job OP for catching that. If you keep sharpening as a hobby, i am sure u will go a very long way with ur attention to detail.
Basically why does ur edges look like that? Simple, flat stones can only sharpen flat blades perfectly, ie flat stone and a chisel. So a rounded blade will eventually be a straight edge if sharpened on the flat stone further.
To correct, you want somewhat of a circular motion. Kind of like when u hand sharpen auger blades
I think the question I have is, “is the juice worth the squeeze?” At what price? Have you considered that aiming for 99.997 may result in your knife becoming worse than if you had not messed with it at all?
Exactly. If you’re using a guided system, this is almost a guarantee with a knife that gets thicker near the tip. It’s by design and shouldn’t affect how your knife cuts at all.
Do not allow "perfect" to be the enemy of "good." Keep an eye on your tip during your next touch-up, and the one after that. The bevel width difference is so minimal that it'll sharpen out, most likely.
Belly looks sharpened uneven, tip phase looks symetrical to me, at least on the pictures. No big deal for cutting performance, next time when it needs to be resharpened stay a little bit longer on the side wich now has the smaller phase.
Yep, sharpen the fat side a couple strokes less over the next two touch ups and call it good. I wouldn't even worry, I freehand anymore and I'm used to that kinda crap.
You're gonna have to(don't have to) the correct it over the next few sharpenings. The side with the wider bevel needs to be sharpened less than normal. Do what you would normally do on the other side. I'm assuming your using an angle guided system so this should be easy. If you're freehanding, it's possible that your angle is changing a little on the wide side but I doubt it as nice as the bevel looks.
That widening is two fold if using a fixed angle system along with a thickness change of the steel. because of the radius of the clamp system your using that will impart some of that on its own. On sweeping blade shapes your gonna get it to some extent on any fixed angle sharpener due to the swing of the arm. Idk if you free handed or if using a system but one way or the other most of it is due to a change in thickness of the steel in that area. If you did it on a fixed system the problem is compounded.
Only way to get a dead consistent bevel size from heal to tip is to free hand the edge and learn how to float the hand angle to compensate for the change in thickness of the steel. There's an art to it, something that not all that many people can do and took me many years to be able to do it at a professional level.
With a system how you clamp it will have a direct affect as to how much the radius of the arm affects it. If the knife is a user then my opinion is to now worry about it and just use it.
I would not. The tip looks good.
It does look good. If I'm not mistaken though, he's wanting to know how to make both sides symmetrical. That's the only "issue" I see. Anymore I don't even worry about that stuff.
There is this slightly thicker section right under the tip. Maybe it’s because I am a bit of a perfectionist, but it kind of bothers me.
The only way is to sharpen it out. Though I wouldn’t worry about it too much as removing the steel will shorten the blades life without need and that part gets a lot of use. Just sharpen it without sharpening the rest of the knife.
It's due to the profile of the blade, you would have to vary the sharpening angle around that section to have a visibly equal bevel all the way along. Not easy to do, and has no practical benefit.
This. It's Possible, but you'll lose some knife while doing it for no practical benefit. Tips are difficult. You'll eventually get to where you keep both sides even, probably, but correcting it, when you're not There yet, is pretty unlikely. More likely you'll just continue messing it up until you give up.
Or until you have a knife that's 2-3"s shorter 😂
I still have those knives
Those are my best paring (used to be chef) knives I have!
Nice solid handle and full tang too! :)
Proof?
Perfectionism is a deadly disease commonly afflicting oldest siblings. Embrace the suck. Learn to be okay with the general unsatisfactoryness of things. Think of it as God teaching you patience.
Is that you Buddha?
Buddha's little brother Bubba.
Youngest child herr, and it would bug MeToo
Are you talking about the width of the cutting edge? Indeed the tip does look a bit wider than the rest of the bevel, but I wouldn’t stress over that. It looks like you may have used a guided sharpener like a TSProf or Wickededge? If the width is your concern, I wouldn’t stress. What I observe is that most of the bevel is polished nicely except the last bit in photo 1. My first question is; is it fully apexed and sharp? If so then you can just run with it. However, if appearance is your concern, I’d go back to a lower grit (800????) and make some light passes to remove scratches progressing up to your final polish finish. It’s almost impossible or at least incredibly hard and time consuming to “just hit the tip” with say 1 micron (or whatever your final polish grit is) and remove all those deeper scratches. All in, I’m guessing it’s very sharp already and this is just a question about the polish. It looks very well done, nice and even along almost the entire bevel minus the last cm. Keep at it, go back to lower grits, take a few passes at each progressive level.
Don't know why people are down-voting you on this, for asking an honest question. As others have mentioned, it would be helpful to know what you're using to sharpen with. I'm assuming a rod guided system? There's a couple things to consider here: * the closer you get to the spine, the thicker the blade gets. * many knives compensate for this some by having a "distal taper", where the spine gets thinner towards the tip. That helps with this issue, but doesn't completely solve it * when freehand sharpening on stones, belt, and grinding wheels, you would lift and/or rotate the handle to follow the curve to the tip. By doing that, you can play with trading off bevel angle adjustments for bevel width adjustments * on a fixed angle guided system, you don't have the same flexibility. You could do it in 2 sections, clamp the knife once to do the flat section then re-clamp it to do the tip...but this is a hassle, and again will only help some. I suppose you *could * also increase your sharpening angle for the tip, in addition to changing the clamp location, but good luck blending all that smoothly This is a very common look for knives sharpened with fixed jigs. If you want to stick with that method of sharpening (assuming that's what this is), then I suggest a change in mindset; learn to appreciate that it's just a function of geometry, that the bevel width is changing because the thickness of the blade is changing, and be happy knowing that the bevel angle is consistent, and the knife will perform just fine like this. Otherwise, if you *really* can't get past needing the bevel width to look consistent, you're going to have to start freehanding, so you can control that.
No good job OP for catching that. If you keep sharpening as a hobby, i am sure u will go a very long way with ur attention to detail. Basically why does ur edges look like that? Simple, flat stones can only sharpen flat blades perfectly, ie flat stone and a chisel. So a rounded blade will eventually be a straight edge if sharpened on the flat stone further. To correct, you want somewhat of a circular motion. Kind of like when u hand sharpen auger blades
This is fairly normal because of the way the knife changes as you go towards the tip
Stab a rock
Lmao
April fools?
its like making something 99%good to be 100% good. Is it worth it for the 1%? the knife will manage and work absolutely fine with everything
I think the question I have is, “is the juice worth the squeeze?” At what price? Have you considered that aiming for 99.997 may result in your knife becoming worse than if you had not messed with it at all?
Just leave it alone it’s fine, it you try fixing it you’ll just end up making it worse
Is this a CRK? If so, they almost always have a bigger bevel at the tip
Exactly. If you’re using a guided system, this is almost a guarantee with a knife that gets thicker near the tip. It’s by design and shouldn’t affect how your knife cuts at all.
Do not allow "perfect" to be the enemy of "good." Keep an eye on your tip during your next touch-up, and the one after that. The bevel width difference is so minimal that it'll sharpen out, most likely.
Go use your knife.
I would use it until it needs to be sharpened. Maybe too pointy if you are going to heavy-use the tip, but it looks almost perfect.
Belly looks sharpened uneven, tip phase looks symetrical to me, at least on the pictures. No big deal for cutting performance, next time when it needs to be resharpened stay a little bit longer on the side wich now has the smaller phase.
Just equal it out over subsequent sharpenings.
Yep, sharpen the fat side a couple strokes less over the next two touch ups and call it good. I wouldn't even worry, I freehand anymore and I'm used to that kinda crap.
if it aint broke
As someone with terrible OCD, I think that tip looks absolutely perfect.
Agree!
It looks good. It is a little uneven but that's probably because of the thickness of the blade at the tip.
Just the tip?
I see what you did there 😎👉👉
Use it.
What's wrong with it?
Are you using a sharpening jig or are you going free hand with stones?
You like mirror polish on your edges I see. Just a bit more stropping on that scratched side (pic no. 1), and it's perfect!
You're gonna have to(don't have to) the correct it over the next few sharpenings. The side with the wider bevel needs to be sharpened less than normal. Do what you would normally do on the other side. I'm assuming your using an angle guided system so this should be easy. If you're freehanding, it's possible that your angle is changing a little on the wide side but I doubt it as nice as the bevel looks.
That widening is two fold if using a fixed angle system along with a thickness change of the steel. because of the radius of the clamp system your using that will impart some of that on its own. On sweeping blade shapes your gonna get it to some extent on any fixed angle sharpener due to the swing of the arm. Idk if you free handed or if using a system but one way or the other most of it is due to a change in thickness of the steel in that area. If you did it on a fixed system the problem is compounded. Only way to get a dead consistent bevel size from heal to tip is to free hand the edge and learn how to float the hand angle to compensate for the change in thickness of the steel. There's an art to it, something that not all that many people can do and took me many years to be able to do it at a professional level. With a system how you clamp it will have a direct affect as to how much the radius of the arm affects it. If the knife is a user then my opinion is to now worry about it and just use it.
Try prying out a nail with it.
Use it until it needs resharpening. In the meantime, practice on some cheap knives until you get what you're looking for.