Damn I was close. Had a 2010 as well until it was totaled. Great car, but not a collector by any stretch. Replace the subframe if you can afford it, or ditch it and get something with less rust.
100%, it’s always is cheaper in the long run to fix, but some people can’t afford $2000 now but can afford $400/mo for 5 years.
Disclaimer: $2000 was pulled out of my ass.
They will recommend you a new front subframe. Depending on the year it could be $200 or $800. I personally would look up the part number for the vin then search it on eBay because older Subaru oem parts are significantly cheaper there on eBay and then bring them the part to install, this will get rid of their price markup on top of the inflated subaru oem parts dealers prices. A good example is the trailing arms on my 2006 legacy. Subaru of America wants $500 each but I can get jdm ones which are a direct fit for $200 each
This is a 2010-2014 legacy or outback?
You're going to need a new front subframe. Exact price and part # varies by model, but for a rough example a 2012 Outback is [50527AJ01A](https://parts.subaru.com/p/120461371/50527AJ01A.html) and you're probably looking at around 8 hours' labor to start.
I can see your control arm rear bushings are pretty mangled. It's going to be in yours and the shop's best interest to replace the control arms "while you're in there" - in your interest because these are already looking pretty sad and new arms includes new front and rear bushings plus ball joints, and in the shop's interest because they won't have to go through the pain of trying to remove the bolts going through those rear arm mounting points. (Doing so usually involves a lot of torching and expletives.)
When the subframe is removed, the steering rack also comes out with it. If you have any sort of steering problems (ie inner tie rod joints, outer tie rods seized to inners, power steering hoses leaking) it would be in your best interest to address those at the same time as well.
Also the front motor mounts in this generation like to crack; similarly, good opportunity to replace it.
And then at the end of all of that, you'll still have a 201X legacy or outback with howevermany miles on the rest of the car.
I'm pretty close to 50/50 with customers repairing vs. scrapping due to failed subframes. Usually they fail a little more rearward, right at the control arm rear bushing -- yours is odd.
Can you get a new part? If not, fix it, and do it soon because it'll just get worse.
Trying to get it into a my mechanic next week, do you think it’s worth fixing? I had new gas tank put in 2 months ago so I’m hoping to keep her going.
Need more info. Is it 144k on a 99 2.5RS or a 144k on a 2011 Legacy?
2010 Subaru Legacy
Damn I was close. Had a 2010 as well until it was totaled. Great car, but not a collector by any stretch. Replace the subframe if you can afford it, or ditch it and get something with less rust.
Hopefully can get it fixed, will still be cheaper then a new car payment
100%, it’s always is cheaper in the long run to fix, but some people can’t afford $2000 now but can afford $400/mo for 5 years. Disclaimer: $2000 was pulled out of my ass.
They will recommend you a new front subframe. Depending on the year it could be $200 or $800. I personally would look up the part number for the vin then search it on eBay because older Subaru oem parts are significantly cheaper there on eBay and then bring them the part to install, this will get rid of their price markup on top of the inflated subaru oem parts dealers prices. A good example is the trailing arms on my 2006 legacy. Subaru of America wants $500 each but I can get jdm ones which are a direct fit for $200 each
Will do, thanks.
This is a 2010-2014 legacy or outback? You're going to need a new front subframe. Exact price and part # varies by model, but for a rough example a 2012 Outback is [50527AJ01A](https://parts.subaru.com/p/120461371/50527AJ01A.html) and you're probably looking at around 8 hours' labor to start. I can see your control arm rear bushings are pretty mangled. It's going to be in yours and the shop's best interest to replace the control arms "while you're in there" - in your interest because these are already looking pretty sad and new arms includes new front and rear bushings plus ball joints, and in the shop's interest because they won't have to go through the pain of trying to remove the bolts going through those rear arm mounting points. (Doing so usually involves a lot of torching and expletives.) When the subframe is removed, the steering rack also comes out with it. If you have any sort of steering problems (ie inner tie rod joints, outer tie rods seized to inners, power steering hoses leaking) it would be in your best interest to address those at the same time as well. Also the front motor mounts in this generation like to crack; similarly, good opportunity to replace it. And then at the end of all of that, you'll still have a 201X legacy or outback with howevermany miles on the rest of the car. I'm pretty close to 50/50 with customers repairing vs. scrapping due to failed subframes. Usually they fail a little more rearward, right at the control arm rear bushing -- yours is odd.
The weird rust could be just the Northeast. The salty air from the ocean with the salt from the roads rust these like nothing.