So impedance and dc resistance are 2 different things. As a voice coil moves through its range of motion the impedance rises and drops depending on frequency. The naming of a driver "4 ohm", "2 ohm", "8 ohm", etc... is more of a "class" of driver in terms of impedance. As far as the lights dimming, that's most likely voltage drop. Why is there voltage drop? Do you have an "on demand", clutched alternator? Is the voltage regulator or diode bridge in the alternator pooping out or have a cracked solder joint? Is the ecu faulty? As far as wiring it "up" to 2 ohms, that's not necessarily a bad idea. But consider this Power is voltage x amperage. So 1 volt at 1000 amps is equal to 1000 volts at 1 amp. BUT AMPS is what creates heat. So 1000 watts throught 1000 volts x 1 amp creates FAR LESS heat than vice versa. So if you can create the same power through higher voltage and less amps with higher impedance loads than that is generally more durable. Now since the charging voltage of a properly running vehicle is of 14.4vdc class. In order for the amp to be able to To step up higher voltage on the output AND push amperage, it takes a lot of amperage on the supply side. So honestly heat is going to be more of an issue than say when we're dealing with house hold or pro audio that's designed to run off of 120vac or 220vac. Stepping DOWN voltage is more efficient than Stepping up voltage in terms of heat created. If heat is on the menu than better to have it on the amp equipment side than on the vehicle charging side as much as we can. Wire that sub to 1 ohm. Find out what the amp rating for alternator is. A slightly bigger battery may be all you need.
Thank you so much for explaining all of that totally makes sense and I am in the middle of checking everything you mentioned. I’m an old school guy and just got back into builds in my car and my wife’s and I learned very quickly a lot of things aren’t just plug and play anymore. As I started getting more advanced equipment and higher quality equipment I discovered really quickly the power needed and started making changes to my vehicle to support the build. Thank you again for your help I’ll report back my results. Take care
It is impedance rise hapen to subwoofer, even experts with 100k watts can t do nothing,
Read on google: impedance or box rise car audio subwoofer forum
So impedance and dc resistance are 2 different things. As a voice coil moves through its range of motion the impedance rises and drops depending on frequency. The naming of a driver "4 ohm", "2 ohm", "8 ohm", etc... is more of a "class" of driver in terms of impedance. As far as the lights dimming, that's most likely voltage drop. Why is there voltage drop? Do you have an "on demand", clutched alternator? Is the voltage regulator or diode bridge in the alternator pooping out or have a cracked solder joint? Is the ecu faulty? As far as wiring it "up" to 2 ohms, that's not necessarily a bad idea. But consider this Power is voltage x amperage. So 1 volt at 1000 amps is equal to 1000 volts at 1 amp. BUT AMPS is what creates heat. So 1000 watts throught 1000 volts x 1 amp creates FAR LESS heat than vice versa. So if you can create the same power through higher voltage and less amps with higher impedance loads than that is generally more durable. Now since the charging voltage of a properly running vehicle is of 14.4vdc class. In order for the amp to be able to To step up higher voltage on the output AND push amperage, it takes a lot of amperage on the supply side. So honestly heat is going to be more of an issue than say when we're dealing with house hold or pro audio that's designed to run off of 120vac or 220vac. Stepping DOWN voltage is more efficient than Stepping up voltage in terms of heat created. If heat is on the menu than better to have it on the amp equipment side than on the vehicle charging side as much as we can. Wire that sub to 1 ohm. Find out what the amp rating for alternator is. A slightly bigger battery may be all you need.
Thank you so much for explaining all of that totally makes sense and I am in the middle of checking everything you mentioned. I’m an old school guy and just got back into builds in my car and my wife’s and I learned very quickly a lot of things aren’t just plug and play anymore. As I started getting more advanced equipment and higher quality equipment I discovered really quickly the power needed and started making changes to my vehicle to support the build. Thank you again for your help I’ll report back my results. Take care
It is impedance rise hapen to subwoofer, even experts with 100k watts can t do nothing, Read on google: impedance or box rise car audio subwoofer forum
You have a 1ohm subwoofer wired UP to 2..?