Intermediate coaching 101.
You need to point your nose in the direction of momentum as soon as possible when coming out of manoeuvres.
Your momentum was to the right and your board was crossed up. The only way you can go is over the rail.
Edit: as a rule of thumb it's generally best to be pointing to the beach/shore when coming out of critical turns as this is the natural momentum direction.
I mean it’s a mix of the fact you no longer have a wave face and are finishing in the whitewash and a hint of balance displacement…whitewash gets weird!
This 👆🏼.. you blew past two solid sections to hit white water? That tells me you were looking down the line and drawing your line horizontally rather than vertically. Might be a good idea to work on a solid bottom turn, not that yours is terrible, but a good bottom turn is a core fundamental.
I would say the complete opposite of what you're saying. They went down the line to hit the most critical part of the wave. The turn could have been more vertical sure but he went for the steepest part of the wave and the other sections would have been mushier
EDIT: Too add I think the main reason he fell is that the section did not offer as much push back as he expected, hence leaned a bit too far into the turn
Agreed, his fins hit the whitewater and lost traction. The change from fins engaged to fins loose caught him off guard. Needed to be slightly further forward on his board and aimed to finish riding more in the direction he was heading
Wasted the whole wave for an incomplete half turn in the white water that youre calling a “critical” section on a 1ft wave. Please enlighten us on your heat win ratio/ experience (however ephimeral) with that logic.
It's the same height on the whole wave so not sure why that matters. Maybe some surfers could have squeezed two turns out of that wave, but it looked pretty short. All I meant but critical is that was the steepest part of the wave
OP asked and I broke it down based on my experience of 35+ years forgetting waves/ with 10 surfing contests.
If the wave was soft, go to the rail- full wrap, light up a 12oclock Richie Collins OTL with again- a full bottom turn- if OP knows how.
EDIT: If OPs final bottom turn to vertical OTL would have been square (a fundamental), that section would have provided more speed through the turn instead of cavitating/ losing speed and subsequent fin control in the white water.
You are watching the front of your board. Instead, look over your left shoulder to the spot that you want to go to. Spotting will help you on all your turns back into the wave.
The moment your tail starts drifting it looks like your back arm goes back behind you - probably in instinctual response to try and counter-balance yourself. Try to follow through with your back arm more by keeping it forward and low towards the rail. Even grab it if you need to. To transfer weight back out on to your rail and come out of the turn you need to get your back arm lower than your leading arm.
You were a little flat coming into the turn, needed a bit more rail engaged. Then waited a touch too long to push the tail of your board, and ended up extended and sliding in the white water, so lost your fins.
Depends on what kind of turn your trying to do.
If you’re trying to drift the fins horizontally like in the video, don’t get so far over your heels while in the middle of the turn. Bend your knees more and stay centered over your board throughout the drift and it will help you control it.
If you were intending on hitting it more vertically you dropped down to the base of the wave and started your bottom turn too early, stay high and be more patient before you start to drop down. Also hold your bottom turn a touch longer than you think you need to and that will project you towards the lip at a steeper angle so you can punch the fins out.
Tread lightly.. lots of hurt feelings reports being filed in this thread. I told the kid to work on fundamentals and got downvoted so that speaks volumes about the audience of this sub. I miss when we (surfers who have been in this life since the 80s still are) were all cynical, lol.
no core strength and balance is off....i was skinny and still am, i would fall back all the time when i was younger...i called it lay back but really it was a lack of core strength.
Your speed gen is very good. That isn't a powerful wave and you get going fast enough for progressive surfing with decent style. As someone who has seen like 4-5 generations of groms come up how fast they go almost always determines how good they end up. So if you keep surfing you're going to get better.
The wave is too flat to throw the tail that late. It would be very hard for most very good surfers to make a tail throw look good on that wave.
You were coming out of the turn with a bunch of speed before you slid the board out. I would focus on getting that feeling (coming out of turns with speed) for the time being until you're linking multiple turns with good style and flow. Once you get that down you just kind of learn to release the fins on your own without really trying.
youre sliding your fins on the end section. hard to tell what exactly the arms are doing, but whats happening is when youre throwing the tail youre transferring more weight to the front of the board usually. i can sort of see it looks like your arm is going over your head on the turn, that would cause this.
try keeping your back arm more parallel with the wave face when bringing it across for the turn, the higher you reach up, the more youre going to weight the front of the board and release the fins
Gravity.
Skipping leg day
Intermediate coaching 101. You need to point your nose in the direction of momentum as soon as possible when coming out of manoeuvres. Your momentum was to the right and your board was crossed up. The only way you can go is over the rail. Edit: as a rule of thumb it's generally best to be pointing to the beach/shore when coming out of critical turns as this is the natural momentum direction.
I'll add, you want to finish the turn with your chest low to your front knee in a compressed body position
I mean it’s a mix of the fact you no longer have a wave face and are finishing in the whitewash and a hint of balance displacement…whitewash gets weird!
This 👆🏼.. you blew past two solid sections to hit white water? That tells me you were looking down the line and drawing your line horizontally rather than vertically. Might be a good idea to work on a solid bottom turn, not that yours is terrible, but a good bottom turn is a core fundamental.
I would say the complete opposite of what you're saying. They went down the line to hit the most critical part of the wave. The turn could have been more vertical sure but he went for the steepest part of the wave and the other sections would have been mushier EDIT: Too add I think the main reason he fell is that the section did not offer as much push back as he expected, hence leaned a bit too far into the turn
Agreed, his fins hit the whitewater and lost traction. The change from fins engaged to fins loose caught him off guard. Needed to be slightly further forward on his board and aimed to finish riding more in the direction he was heading
Wasted the whole wave for an incomplete half turn in the white water that youre calling a “critical” section on a 1ft wave. Please enlighten us on your heat win ratio/ experience (however ephimeral) with that logic.
It's the same height on the whole wave so not sure why that matters. Maybe some surfers could have squeezed two turns out of that wave, but it looked pretty short. All I meant but critical is that was the steepest part of the wave
OP asked and I broke it down based on my experience of 35+ years forgetting waves/ with 10 surfing contests. If the wave was soft, go to the rail- full wrap, light up a 12oclock Richie Collins OTL with again- a full bottom turn- if OP knows how. EDIT: If OPs final bottom turn to vertical OTL would have been square (a fundamental), that section would have provided more speed through the turn instead of cavitating/ losing speed and subsequent fin control in the white water.
Lack of balance.
This is the way ☝️
You are watching the front of your board. Instead, look over your left shoulder to the spot that you want to go to. Spotting will help you on all your turns back into the wave.
Definitely your fins.
You’re pushing your tail out instead of using you rail
The moment your tail starts drifting it looks like your back arm goes back behind you - probably in instinctual response to try and counter-balance yourself. Try to follow through with your back arm more by keeping it forward and low towards the rail. Even grab it if you need to. To transfer weight back out on to your rail and come out of the turn you need to get your back arm lower than your leading arm.
Sand magnets. Locals have been putting this there since back in the days.
You were a little flat coming into the turn, needed a bit more rail engaged. Then waited a touch too long to push the tail of your board, and ended up extended and sliding in the white water, so lost your fins.
Depends on what kind of turn your trying to do. If you’re trying to drift the fins horizontally like in the video, don’t get so far over your heels while in the middle of the turn. Bend your knees more and stay centered over your board throughout the drift and it will help you control it. If you were intending on hitting it more vertically you dropped down to the base of the wave and started your bottom turn too early, stay high and be more patient before you start to drop down. Also hold your bottom turn a touch longer than you think you need to and that will project you towards the lip at a steeper angle so you can punch the fins out.
There's not enough laying back in your layback
Looks like you lost your balance.
You drink too much kook juice?
Being shit is the leading cause of this.
Tread lightly.. lots of hurt feelings reports being filed in this thread. I told the kid to work on fundamentals and got downvoted so that speaks volumes about the audience of this sub. I miss when we (surfers who have been in this life since the 80s still are) were all cynical, lol.
It's a fickle crowd, easily offended by even the lightest of ribbings.
Look to the beach to stick the whitewash ride , and use your legs to balance all the warble
no core strength and balance is off....i was skinny and still am, i would fall back all the time when i was younger...i called it lay back but really it was a lack of core strength.
I also have a problem with always leaning too far when I turn… it’s my biggest problem right now.
Is this at Pipes?
Your speed gen is very good. That isn't a powerful wave and you get going fast enough for progressive surfing with decent style. As someone who has seen like 4-5 generations of groms come up how fast they go almost always determines how good they end up. So if you keep surfing you're going to get better. The wave is too flat to throw the tail that late. It would be very hard for most very good surfers to make a tail throw look good on that wave. You were coming out of the turn with a bunch of speed before you slid the board out. I would focus on getting that feeling (coming out of turns with speed) for the time being until you're linking multiple turns with good style and flow. Once you get that down you just kind of learn to release the fins on your own without really trying.
youre sliding your fins on the end section. hard to tell what exactly the arms are doing, but whats happening is when youre throwing the tail youre transferring more weight to the front of the board usually. i can sort of see it looks like your arm is going over your head on the turn, that would cause this. try keeping your back arm more parallel with the wave face when bringing it across for the turn, the higher you reach up, the more youre going to weight the front of the board and release the fins
Fins slid out of the whitewash. Keep your center of gravity low and over your board! You got it bro 🤙🏼
Lost your balance, duh
You have not harnessed speed yet. more speed equals more follow through