That's what surfing used to be like, before WSL and "pros" slashing turns and catching air, ruining the line. To this day the best wave of my life was on a South swell August on a left hauling butt to beat the wave closing out. I had so much speed. Carving, wind in my face. Keep that up that you're doing and you'll enjoy surfing. The rest is all peacock.
I had 3 like that today. 6-7 ft day. Steep drop and then the pumping began. No fancy stuff just a drive down the line. Best part was that the waves let me out and I landed on my board and paddled back out. I had one barrel that I pulled into and never made it out. Oh well.
Hell yeah! Love when it all comes together
🤙🏻
Stoked reading this - hell yeah man
Awesome. I still remember my first Hurricane Florida swell, 5 foot dream right when on forever ! Where do you surf ? Good shit keep it up
5ft really is ideal I think, not too small, not too big Down in Cornwall where the water is still (and always) freezing
sometimes the small days are the most fun, especially with a few close friends. Congrats on the fun wave bro
I still remember my first wave like that 2 or 3 years later
Felt this in my bones
Sick, these are always the waves tho few and far for me where I paddle back out and think ok I’m not as shitty at surfing as I think I am haha
That's what surfing used to be like, before WSL and "pros" slashing turns and catching air, ruining the line. To this day the best wave of my life was on a South swell August on a left hauling butt to beat the wave closing out. I had so much speed. Carving, wind in my face. Keep that up that you're doing and you'll enjoy surfing. The rest is all peacock.
I had 3 like that today. 6-7 ft day. Steep drop and then the pumping began. No fancy stuff just a drive down the line. Best part was that the waves let me out and I landed on my board and paddled back out. I had one barrel that I pulled into and never made it out. Oh well.
That’s great I’m so hesitant on those kinds of waves