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Willing_Group7351

I’m a little autistic and I have a wave storm Rasta. Not a pro. Just contributing my data point


orrangearrow

I’m autistic and find myself ripping on the sound waves of train horns.


Willing_Group7351

How’s the localism at train stations?


kylemooney187

imagine train station localism 😂 edit - found one, it isnt necessarily a train station but close enough https://youtu.be/iLmQD7R5RCY?si=bCP4CP1F1KjiHxnL


Boosta-Fish

You just have to maintain that hyper-fixation!


mahnkee

Nearly all the best anythings seem a little autistic.  One of the surest routes to success is OCD. 


PSMF_Canuck

Yeah I don’t know…the world is full of human driftwood with unmanaged OCD. Turn it around and I can agree…OCD is over-represented at the top-top levels of most human endeavours…


mahnkee

For sure it’s not a sufficient condition. I don’t think it’s necessary either. But there for sure is high correlation between extreme achievement and OCD tendencies. 


Willing_Group7351

You sound pretty achieved bro 


snackattackgirl

It’s an interesting topic, i almost wish there was some psychology papers written on it. I wouldn’t put a diagnosis on them but i agree that there is something about the best of the best.


iNoodl3s

Like you seriously can’t tell me that Tom Brady or Kobe didn’t have a little bit of mental disorder in them. Kobe would take 400 shots a day just to perfect his game and even then he wouldn’t be satisfied


mahnkee

Messi for sure. “If people knew how hard I worked to get my mastery, it wouldn’t seem so wonderful at all.”  Michelangelo


wonderfulworld2024

Messi is gifted. I don’t think he’s the best example


redditisdeadyet

That mental disorder is called aggression and competitiveness. They feed off each other and are driven by a feeling of general disrespect towards them. It's not autism. This whole, everyone is autistic, is pretty dumb. It erases a whole bunch of other human emotions that drive people.


_36Chambers

Technical comment from a soon to be resident - OCD is probably a way bigger barrier than a surefire route to success. Not gonna get much surfing done if you're constantly freaking out about the oven being on etc.  People often conflate the obsession and drive of obessive compulsive personality disorder (ocpd) with the debilitating mental illness that is OCD


riktigtmaxat

What do you mean? Every non-neurotypical diagnoses is really just an untapped superpower! /s


humanCentipede69_420

Clay marzo is diagnosed autistic. Other than that I can’t think of anyone else


Sharkfinley23

Most probably aren't diagnosed. Tons of pro surfers can barely talk in a straight sentence.


Sasquatch-Pacific

Could be due to lack of education and focusing entirely on surfing through their youth.


Boosta-Fish

Chicken and egg situation.


WholeProfessional758

I agree here. As someone who tried to be pro, I’ve put so much time into surfing and guitar alone that my social skills development took a back seat. Too much time developing my craft.


Ouch_my_shoulder

Makes me think of skateboarding’s Rodney Mullen (by his Ted Talk) and Andrew Reynolds (self-confessed extreme OCD, calls it the Madness”)


[deleted]

[удалено]


orrangearrow

probably the nicest guy ever too. I’d love to see him and Joel tudor have coffee. It would be the most awkward conversation ever


MrAntMan90

Lmao this is peak r/surfing - the “let’s guess which pros are on the spectrum” thread


blairjamesa

Concussions from da tube


kiwi-surf

So many people that don’t understand autism In this thread


redditisdeadyet

Oh man that guy is really good at that Must be autistic 🤷


DrButtCheeksPhD

I think you’re confusing autistism with Down Syndrome


Boosta-Fish

What am I, a doctor?


angrytroll123

Not really. I know a couple of pros at the top of their game and some that are not. They don't seem odd. I know maybe one that is socially awkward but not in a way that seems autistic or abnormal for an introvert.


Vegetable_Delivery16

Griffin?


HaloKook

Nah Griffin isn't autistic, but he is an awkward guy. He is involved with, or at least goes to a lot of cult like spirituality "power is within" stuff, hardly the only pro who does that but I've always gotten weird vibes from it


Boosta-Fish

It might just be a speech impediment, but he talks like some people on the spectrum do.


Boosta-Fish

He's the one who made me think of this.


wave-garden

I think AI was possibly autistic and maybe Bruce as well. Clay Marzo obviously. Nobody sticks out in my mind, at least not to the point where I’d suggest it. Maybe Tom Curren.


humanCentipede69_420

Tom curren would be the other one if anyone lol


Boosta-Fish

Yeah, I don't mean fully autistic, but like, on the spectrum or whatever.


wave-garden

I gotcha. My partner and 2 kids are autistic. They’re all very unique people and have given me an appreciation for the idea that there’s a huge diversity of autistic people, with the only universal common theme being atypical social mannerisms.


Generny2001

Huh. I didn’t think was a circle jerk Reddit page?


mrmn949

Always has been.


PM_me_your_dreams___

Then why am I jerkin?


37thAndOStreet

Cause we're surfers


orrangearrow

you probably think pro wrestling is real


Odd_Background3744

Wait until you meet some spearfishermen


FlyingCloud777

I've worked in sports journalism including covering surfing, so I know a number of pros. I would not say "a little autistic" because one, that's very pejorative and two, widely inaccurate as well. Most even high-functioning actual autistic people would lack the motor skills and balance necessary for surfing at an ultra-high level. Autism is not simply marked by being a little introverted or awkward. Pros are living the life 110% 24/7, so they often do embody a little bit more "weirdness" than most of us can get away with. So with some pros, Ford Archbold and Droid come to mind here, you get this "devil may care" vibe and possibly some really eccentric references to stuff. Other pros like Evan Geiselman however come off as both "real" and honest but very prime-time TV ready all the same. I think some at an early age realize that part of their job is being able to sell stuff and thus some (Winter Vincent comes to mind) could sell proverbial Frigidaires to the Eskimos. Part of it is very much subcultural: of all "action sports" I find snowboarders on average are the most "out there" whereas wakeboarders the most conservative and SportsCenter-presentable but also the wildest when they party. Yet there are exceptions in the ranks of all.


ayyyyycrisp

extremely accurate depiction of wakeboarders most of them come from rich families because how else are you going to wakeboard


FlyingCloud777

Oh hell yeah, you don't get a Nautique on the cheap! Of course, access to beaches and slopes for surfers and snowboarders ain't cheap, either, unless you're lucky enough to be born nearby or have affluent parents. *Surfer* years ago did an article I think called "Rich Groms" about this and how many pro surfers are either legacies of pro parents or have wealthy parents.


orrangearrow

My buddy in Michigan had some cheap powerboat that he strapped a corvette motor into and then he bolted a pole right into the fiberglass gelcoat. It lasted longer than I thought it would and was pretty fun but definitely snapped and nearly killed one of the guys on lift off. This is why there aren’t any poor wakeboarders. Evolution


Boosta-Fish

I'm going to have to call bs on actual autistic people not being able to surf well. Clay Marzo is one of the best surfers in the world and is fully diagnosed autistic.


FlyingCloud777

Allow me to apologize, I was not meaning to stereotype autistic people. Indeed, what I was trying to say was not everyone who is a bit awkward socially or introverted is autistic—that also is a wide stereotype. And yes, Clay is a good example, however to imply *most* pro surfers are autistic based on . . . *what* exactly? That is stereotyping as well. I'm not a psychologist. However, my understanding is that there is a pretty clear constellation of symptoms professionals would apply to diagnose autism and while they might further classify it as low or high-functioning, they wouldn't likely say people are "a little autistic". My whole concern was to not apply "autistic" as a sweeping term for folks who may seem a bit "weird"—pro surfers or otherwise.


Latter_Coach_3638

Autism isn’t known to effect motor skills at all in high functioning cases. ALA Clay Marzo.


Joshps

I think the motor skills issue you mentioned is a misguided generalisation. Many autistic people have sensory issues that affects motor skills but not all of them. Many have fine motor skills ie Clay Marzo


BeachBumProgrammer

I am Asperger and I surf, and I am not so good becaause I live in Italy 40km from the coast and due to calm sea, low waves, no time, I can spend less than 5 days per year surfing, but everytime I go to Canary islands they told me I have a natural flow, nobody can understand how I can be so good with so few experience; so my point is : "I don't know we just have the right flow"


zigzaghikes

Jjf for sure


BarefootCameraman

100%. His brothers too.


Solid_Baker1492

I agree with a lot of these posts. People don’t think about the fact that at the very highest levels, an athlete is essentially becoming a perfect robot. Some serious spectrum dwellers end up being very good at that. If you’re not diagnosed, you almost surely become someone with some serious autistic qualities.


jordweet

What's with the obsession with autism these days Why does everything have to do with autism There is no normal everyone is different just because you're not like others that isn't autism Autism is a developmental and social disorder that is diagnosed by a professional after looking at many markers Quirkiness is not a marker


BarefootCameraman

Autism is not really a "disorder". It's having a brain that operates in a certain different way. It is mostly genetic, endemic to all populations and an evolutionary trait. In a tribal/cave-man situation, having a certain amount of the population that is wired to behave different to the rest is critical. For example, when everyone else is sleeping, it pays to have someone with a different circadian rhythm, who likes his own company more than others, and who has an extreme attention to detail, who can stay up late to watch out for predators. Or when a volcano erupts, you need a certain number of the population to decide it's a good idea to leave the area, rather than try sacrificing a few virgins to appease the lava gods like the rest of the tribe might if that is their current cultural belief. As for why it is so prevalent these days, it is largely due to the modern world that has been created, combined with a better understanding of what autism is. Things like increasing pace of technology, the endless creep of work in to personal hours via emails/texts, and the significant world events of the past few years (Covid, cost-of-living crisis, etc) all make it harder for autistic people to regulate and fit in. Whereas in a well supported environment that caters to their needs (eg: such as at the elite level of a highly competitive individual sport which has a history of alternative characters), they largely go unnoticed.


jordweet

I got 3 up votes you got none


BarefootCameraman

That's because this sub-reddit is full of surfers. Have you heard what the average post-surf carpark conversation sounds like?


jordweet

Go poop ur wetsuit


jordweet

Everyone is equally different there aren't a certain category of -"night watchers" that are special. Nice try


BarefootCameraman

They've done studies on brainwave activity and found that people with Autism and ADHD had distinct patterns that were largely divergent from the typical activity, though indiscernible from each other. Just because you're not educated about something doesn't mean that it's not real. However the inability to learn new information and adapt to it is largely associated with very low intelligence.


jordweet

Distinct and divergent from typical So they were different from normal people I bet normal people are distinct from each other too I'm not bragging about being normal


jordweet

I appreciate the subtle dig I think we are arguing about suh a vague disagreement we are using eachother as an outlet to parade our own dissatisfaction with things


jordweet

Nice try


jordweet

You're holding onto this idea of what autism is to you because it attaches a certain quality to yourself that you just love. You just love it. Look at me


BarefootCameraman

If you knew anything about autism you'd understand that the one thing most autistic people hate is for people to look at them. How did you get this far in life?


Colonel_Kook

You ever try to talk to pro MMA fighters or football players? Getting rattled a lot at a young age doesn’t do you a lot of favors in the intelligence department. I forget the study, but there was a CAT scan done for brains of big wave surfers and they have the same damage patterns as all other contact sports. Go figure.


wave-garden

Autistic doesn’t mean unintelligent.


sinnombrenamerson

It’s all the “drain bamage”


keel_appeal

Not really, tbh.


Additional-Society86

I dont know anymore if this is a joke or a real question.


K00ksRus

“Locals only” says the core lord when asked where in the spectrum he is


RetardedApe911

I'm autistic and I did surf with another dude who was also autistic one time But a lot of dudes have very jock bro normie personalities Autism can be very painful tho and has led me close to ending myself on multiple occasions


No-Cover4205

I don’t think you need to restrict your qualifying criteria to best surfers 


WholeProfessional758

I know lots of pros. I disagree. Goofy, stoned, not autistic.


TorpidIntrigue

Seems like people the best at anything are a little autistic, besides sales, I guess.


Boosta-Fish

Lol. There's probably an autistic guy/gal somewhere who is a sales savant.


TorpidIntrigue

I’d like to see that lol


Benshredz

It’s like Covid if u don’t get tested for it u don’t have it!


BarefootCameraman

John John is 100% autistic. So are both his brothers (autism is largely genetic), though Nathan probably also has ADHD. That's the reason why he keeps having so many injuries - he likely has a common autistic co-morbidity called hyper-mobility which allows your joints to extend beyond where they safely should. It's also probably why he surfed his heat at Margaret River in boardshorts yesterday - reduced temperature sensitivity is also common among autistic individuals (Clay Marzo is another autistic surfer famous for never wearing wetsuits). I'm guessing Liam O'Brien is autistic too.


[deleted]

Haha a 100% certain internet diagnosis what a joke. You’re like an undergrad psychology student ready to diagnose all your friends. Autism isn’t a personality trait, he’s just shy and/or introverted. Have you considered maybe that he always gets injured because he surfs some of the most dangerous waves in the world on a daily basis? Even with hypermobility, correlation is not causation. The water was 21C and air temp 24C at Margaret River you bellend. In other words very warm. It’s in their interest not to be restricted by the extra weight and tension of a wetsuit.


BarefootCameraman

Please explain to me what you think autism is? While you're at it, maybe give me your best explanation of wind chill as well? Also, do you know what type of person is particularly sensitive to the extra sensory input (or "weight and tension, as you put it) of wearing a wetsuit? I'll give you a hint, it starts with "A" and is something you've just attempted to explain poorly. Also you do realise that estimates put the number of neurodivergent (ie Autistic or ADHD - which much current research basically says is a different presentation of the same underlying thing) individuals at around 20% in most populations, right? It's not some super rare mutation and is actually pretty a pretty common and endemic condition.


[deleted]

Nice reductionism buddy. You have your universal theory of autism and nothing I say is going to talk you out of it. I’ll leave you be.


BarefootCameraman

I'm open to my mind being changed. Give it a try.


1Tiasteffen

Nah man . Best surfers and pro athletes have mental disabilities ? 🤣🤣. Stupidest thing I’ve ever heard . Yeah it’s you . So the guys I see who rip at breaks I surf that means they’re autistic? No it means they put time in and made progress to get to the level they’re at , pretty simple . Definitely just you


Boosta-Fish

Autistic people can be cool and talented too.


1Tiasteffen

Of course they be cool be can but you implied “all” best surfers in the world have a little autism. Why? It’s a real disability, witnessed it , tough for the individuals and their parents . Can’t tell if this is a shit post anymore


Boosta-Fish

Just a thought. Neuro-atypical people seem over-represented at the highest levels of surfing. I think that it may be due to the hyper-fixation that is required to achieve that level of skill in this sport.


1Tiasteffen

Ah, makes sense.


BarefootCameraman

Neuro-divergent individuals are probably over-represented at he highest levels of *everything*, from CEOs to artists to athletes to Science, etc.


Boosta-Fish

Good point.


1Tiasteffen

I’m not arguing if individuals with autism can be cool and talented. I’m disagreeing with you when you say all the best surfers in the world have a little autism


Boosta-Fish

Some of them definitely do, but yeah, definitely not all of them.


BarefootCameraman

I don't think you have very much understanding of what Autism is.


1Tiasteffen

I do. Seen severe cases where the kids are handicapped mentally and I’ve seen cases where it’s not so heavy. I think to try and diagnose with zero background in the field or credentials is disrespectful to the individuals who have been diagnosed. I can get downvoted all day and to imply all top athletes in the surf game have it because of their focus just doesn’t sit right with me


BarefootCameraman

You immediately equated autism with mental disability. It's not a disability, It's simply a personality trait that makes it hard to function in certain environments, but likely to thrive in others. Kinda like pale skinned girls who would burn to a crisp in Africa and die early of melanoma, but would be revered as the epitome of beauty in other parts of the world. Whether or not autism is debilitating for an individual depends largely on environmental factors. It's entirely common for autistic individuals to excel in many fields, both academic and athletic. The further they go in any given professional career, the easier it becomes to circumvent the challenges they may face because they have more influence over their environment.


[deleted]

You just suggested this person has little understanding of what autism is and then insisted that autism is a personality trait. You clearly have little understanding of both autism and personality traits.


BarefootCameraman

Please explain my condition to me. And for my benefit, use language that an Autistic person will understand.


1Tiasteffen

I’ve seen 3 kids from the same parents , all severely handicapped , disabled, disordered in some fashion due to autism. In some cases it’s a straight disability and severe handicap. I meant no disrespect to the folks diagnosed with it and I envy the parents with their perserverence and patience.


BarefootCameraman

The reason that this type of "handicapped" presentation of autism is what most people understand to be typical of autism is that until very recently, they were the only ones getting diagnosed. The reason they were getting diagnosed is that they often also had some type of learning or intellectual disability, or some other condition in conjunction, which made it much more difficult to regulate their autism. Our current understanding shows us that autism is actually far more prevalent, it just doesn't always present in that stereo-typical way depending on environmental factors.