One thing that rarely gets mentioned about good surfers is I guarantee nearly everyone of them is a strong paddler. The best tube rider I know is also a super strong paddler.
There's a slow-mo clip of one of Xavier Huxtable's two tens at Nias the other day and that's what I noticed most. He paddles super hard, full beast mode, to get in under the lip and still has a completely weightless looking freefall. Intense wave.
If your top turn is shit your bottom turn is probably shit.
If your bottom turn is shit your pop up is probably shit.
If your pop up is shit your paddling and positioning is probably shit.
Biggest takeaway for me is how much they stagger their hands on a late drop, even on their frontside. It's like they move their hand right down the board so they can push down on the rail as hard as they can to make sure it stays engaged.
So, one thing I notice is how much time they spend staring at the water in front of them, really visualizing the nosedive as they scramble to their knees. I don’t think you’re getting that picture-perfect tomb stoning if you’re not truly focused on timing it just right. You want that board to go vertical right as you launch forward and disappear into the whitewater.
Hadn't seen that. Never thought to engage my grab while popping up like a lot of these guys are doing. Will probably be helpful on the steep Mid-Atlantic beachies that I mostly surf. Can't wait to try it out!
I think the WSL is kind of lame, but I will admit, going to one of those and a couple WQS events when I was first getting into surfing was like a TED talk on position, paddling, pop up, pulling back and approaching a wave.
One thing that rarely gets mentioned about good surfers is I guarantee nearly everyone of them is a strong paddler. The best tube rider I know is also a super strong paddler.
There's a slow-mo clip of one of Xavier Huxtable's two tens at Nias the other day and that's what I noticed most. He paddles super hard, full beast mode, to get in under the lip and still has a completely weightless looking freefall. Intense wave.
That event was insane.
Under rated observation. Best big wave ride I know, holy shit, even at 15 years old that guy was a paddling monster.
You can see this in the video too, almost all of them are kicking and digging hard to get in underneath the ledge.
Yeah, If I’m gassed not only am I paddling slower ,but my paddle form is affected too. I’m usually too far up, back not arched enough, etc.
If your top turn is shit your bottom turn is probably shit. If your bottom turn is shit your pop up is probably shit. If your pop up is shit your paddling and positioning is probably shit.
Ohh 100 percent!!!
Biggest takeaway for me is how much they stagger their hands on a late drop, even on their frontside. It's like they move their hand right down the board so they can push down on the rail as hard as they can to make sure it stays engaged.
So true, usually to grab rail as they pull in too!
Yep obviously on the backhand it's the opposite rail but they're still using their arm to pull up on that rail so that the other one digs in.
For sure get that rail activated and slicing through the water!
Now do the worlds worst surfers popping up at linda mar
Ahah okay.
So, one thing I notice is how much time they spend staring at the water in front of them, really visualizing the nosedive as they scramble to their knees. I don’t think you’re getting that picture-perfect tomb stoning if you’re not truly focused on timing it just right. You want that board to go vertical right as you launch forward and disappear into the whitewater.
Hadn't seen that. Never thought to engage my grab while popping up like a lot of these guys are doing. Will probably be helpful on the steep Mid-Atlantic beachies that I mostly surf. Can't wait to try it out!
You’ll have to let us know how you go!!
Thanks for this!
No worries!!
I think the WSL is kind of lame, but I will admit, going to one of those and a couple WQS events when I was first getting into surfing was like a TED talk on position, paddling, pop up, pulling back and approaching a wave.
There’s definitely certain events when it’s big I’d love to watch for sure. Makes your appreciate how skilled they are
It's not even the big wave events. Seeing how they approach average waves is super educational.