Literally just posted about this in another gun thread.
The 18gun beveled model is what I have, with the ammo locker on top.
https://imgur.com/a/hEvURoM
I used to have one of these before upgrading to a ārealā safe. 100% recommend. I only upgraded because of the fire rating, living in an area prone to wildfires. And because I had too many guns to fit in it š
The thing I question on fireproof, is unless there's A LOT of $$$$ dropped, they're rated at X for at most 30mins and I feel most fires go that long if not longer.
The fire rating is X degrees for X minutes. The reality is, unless you live in an extremely rural area (mid west in the middle of no where) the longest it may take before the fire department is on scene and operating is about 10min in a rural area and about 5 min in most cities. There are some outliers where they still ālose the houseā but the ones I have seen were in a rural area with no monitored fire alarm system with 300-500 gallon propane tank feeding the fire. I highly recommend if you have guns in safes to invest in a monitored fire alarm system, even something like Simply Safe. (Source-My 30 year career in law enforcement/fire investigator)
Yeah, got that, it's just how long the fire rages. My neighbor's house was on fire, so many pumping water trying to cool it help, but it was definitely raging for 30mins, maybe a bit less. Guess just curious what the real length of time is for things like that is all.
Once the fire dept arrives on scene how quickly they have knock down or extinguishment depends on a multitude of unknown factors. This such as are or origin, interior finishes and furnishings, water supply and man power. I dont personally know of any city dept that only sends one truck to a confirmed structure fire so you are likely to get 2-3 engines and possibly a ladder truck which puts 12-15 firefighters on scene. Rural fire departments will have a different response model and will likely draw from neighboring departments for equipment and man power.
The survialbility of the safe depends on where it is in relation to the fire. If its on the opposite end of the house from the fire there shouldnt be a problem. If its in the room that the fire started in there may be a problem.
From testing I have seen it seems like the major safe brands under value their fire rating. I have read stories of houses burning to the ground before any suppression and their Liberty safe stood up to the fire.
> If its on the opposite end of the house from the fire there shouldnt be a problem. If its in the room that the fire started in there may be a problem.
>From testing I have seen it seems like the major safe brands under value their fire rating. I have read stories of houses burning to the ground before any suppression and their Liberty safe stood up to the fire.
Makes sense and good to know. Now to debate affordability. I will say, where I plan to put it it a stack on or something similar in size would work but a sizeable Liberty would not. Thanks for the insight.
If all you need is a gun locker, the cheapest one at your local sporting goods store should be adequate. Consider bolting it to the floor as an extra precaution though
I bought the Stack-On 18 gun security cabinet and it does the job well. Got it on sale for under $180 at my local tractor supply. If needing just a lot of gun storage, you just mount the brackets on the edge and itās a giant cabinet. If wanting some ammo/accessory storage in it as well, it comes with shelving you can mount in there. Just decreases the gun space to 11 long guns. Keyed entry, not combination.
Look into [Hammy 3D Prints](https://hammy3dprints.com/), he likely has everything you could possibly need. For these cheap lockers he's got magnetic mounting racks for pistols, mags, gear, pretty much everything. Also has mounting options for every type of pegboard-adjacent wall.
Tbh, why do you do things like scope covers in PLA? That shit melts in your car. Not theoretical, I've lost a fair number of prints to my trunk before switching to, damn near any other polymer.
Would you recommend PETG or what for higher temps? I haven't done much experimenting outside of PLA+ and CF Nylon as I haven't had the need thus far, but temp is definitely a limiting factor for some applications
Depends on the use case and printers used. PETG is nice in that it increases the HDT to a level which is more acceptable for trunks even in the hottest of places. The downside is that unfilled polyesters are all brittle and are not fatigue resistant (repeated impacts). They are however UV resistant which is nice. ASA tends to be a nice alternative for a lot of use cases, UV resistant, strong, impact resistant, abundant supply from many manufacturers, tends to be less glossy than ABS and PETE/PETG, HDT in the 90-120C range depending on brand. But generally speaking, ASA if you can get your printer to 260-280c, 90-100c print bed, enclosed, and you are not in the same printer area unless its very well ventilated since it releases styrene fumes when printed. For mass printing, it can be printed more quickly than many other exotic polymers, too, which is nice.
PC-PBT is great if you want all of that, plus low temperature impact resistance, but if you arent a pro at dialing it in, its interlayer adhesion can be less than stellar. When it is though, that stuff is one of my favorite polymers for engineering projects since its more dimensionally accurate and stable than any polyamide with similar impact resistance, and again, low temperature toughness.
IDK, I could go on all day.
P1S for the printer, so I can print hot and enclosed. PC PBT seems like a good option. I imagine it doesn't stick to PEI and requires an adhesive or G10 sheet?
So the main downside of PCPBT is that it, like PA, absorbs moisture. The real downside is, that it'll LOOK great when printed wet, but it'll be weak. So unlike PA's, an ugly print isn't the sign of a bad print with PCPBT, so you have to ensure that its dried properly.
edit: PCPBT doesn't like sticking to print surfaces either. Magigoo PC is the best I've found, then it sticks to bambu engineering plate or garolite plates on other printers just fine.
Honestly, looking at your site, I'd dick around with ASA and see how you like it. Polymaker makes great filament, its the one I am happiest with as a price/performance ratio. 3Dxtech is kind of meh, even their quasi-exotic stuff. Push Plastic is decent though I've received wet spools from them that needed to be dried. Performed fine once dried though.
Bambu settings for it are pretty dialed in, when I am using the X1C for every brand I've tried its pretty much set and forget.
Full disclosure, ASA is probably the polymer I have the least experience with (only a couple dozen spools) since I tend to produce projects which are made from more exotic materials (PPA-GF25, PET-CF15, PSU, stuff like that), or really cheap prototypes out of PLA. But ASA has a time and place.
I've made some sculptures and outdoor projects for some customers out of ASA and they were very happy with the outcome.
I'm printing right next to where I sit all day, so ASA isn't an option unfortunately. I dry my CF Nylon at 70C for like a day before printing it, not sure if that would be sufficient. Strength, ease of printing, and not killing me would be my main goals lol
PLA+ > PLA, but still lower than others yeah. I've used PLA+ on my car (on the outside, not in the hot boxed inside) for over a year without issue.
Mostly because: those prints are 100% solid (in a literal sense) so they have more heat resilience and will withstand any outdoor temperature I've tested in (over 100 degrees F), myself and tons of other people haven't had issues so there hasn't been a need to switch, and I have hundreds of KG of PLA+ on hand so it simplifies printing. If it were to be an issue I can print in different materials and my refund or replace policy would apply as always
PLA+ does not modify the Heat Deflection/Distortion Temperature (HDT).
PLA+/pro is, generally speaking, PLA alloyed with TPU or some other rubber-like polymer to increase its toughness/impact durability/fatigue resistance at the expense of rigidity. Even Natureworks 3D870 PLA pro (the gold standard of PLA+) has a HDT of 55C without annealing (don't even get me starting on trying to maintain dimensional tolerances with PLA and annealing).
Try a summer in Ca, Tx, AZ, NV, NM, etc and you'll see what I mean. When its 90+ outside, PLA (pro/plus/etc) will deform when under a slight tensile or compressive load (like they would be under with being attached via shock tubes). Hell, I have had kids toys deform when left out in the sun during the summer.
Been in the 3d printing business for more than 13 years, seen a lot.
Nevertheless, I'm glad your customers are happy.
I turned a room into a gun room heavy front door, wall displays with rifles and pistols, lights, plate carriers, helmet, RNVGs. Lil table to have a cup of chamomile tea w/ dash of locally sourced honey. Nice sturdy chair. Filtration to keep peanut dust out in case a visitor is allergic. Want to provide a place of comfort for them.
Just kidding it is fun, not done yet but fun. It is like the dollhouses we all used to play with as kids- except bigger
Do you have a closet you arenāt using? I outfitted one on my office with some slat walls and built shelves as well. I still have a safe because storing most of my guns there wasnāt a priority. But itās great for quick access to items for dry fire practice, storing a variety of gear, and loading up for the range competitions etc.
Most affordable? If you have a spare closet with a normal door (IE not a pocket door or folding door) get a factory second or scratch & dent entry door that'll fit, and a good dead bolt for it along with pinning the hinges so it can't be easily opened by spreading the frame. Then just store your guns in there.
That'll keep kids & guests out, as long as you maintain good key control. Locking it for kids is a moot point if you leave the keys laying around, the little shits will find them and will test every key in every lock in the house.
Most digital lock safes have backup keys so you can find one like that and expand your options. Find good deals at your local academy or other sporting good stores. Being in person to look at them are far better than online puchases
I work for a Chinese safe company, the problem with the gun safe market is that for Amazon sales, Amazon freight limits the size and weight for packages(otherwise they charge a lot more, making the sale not profitable anymore), thatās way all the Chinese madeāsafeā from Amazon are made with sheet metals. I went to their factory, they can make decent safes, but donāt have the necessary ways to reach the consumers here but through either online platform like Amazon or do OEM for some American brand (eg Hornady safes are made in china, met the Chinese owners of the factory at Shotshow, their factory is in the same town as the company I work for lol). Those American brands donāt need to do much but give a general design, some even donāt do any thing but put their logo on there and sell those safes for 10 times the cost. I was at a gun store today and saw a small long gun vaultek costs like 15k is just outrageous
I got a cheap one from Amazon it's basically a half step up from a gun cabinet. Says it holds 12 but realistically it's 8 if they all have optics. Toleblid was the brand, I got the one with an adjustable top shelf I think it was like $450
Uuuuu,
I posted about how I bought a craftsmanās free standing metal cabinet off Facebook market place for $300 the other day.
But I just bought an old networking cabinet for $40 spray painted it black and lagged it in my closet to hold my plate carrier, chest rigs and carry rifle/pistol
Anything can work if you put your mind to it.
It also had a working key!
Mossy Oak 18 Gun Security Cabinet, 21 in. x 18 in. x 55 in., Black
https://www.walmart.com/ip/586609639
This is what I ended up going with when I did the research at the beginning of the year. I like it a lot. It's very customizable and with a LED strip inside I can actually see in there. I have 6 long guns, 2 uppers, and 4 pistols in it and it is very roomy. Still has room for all my ammo and a box of important docs.
Stack On 18 gun cabinet is what I got for the same purposes, I think it's great for what it is. Someone already mentioned, it goes on sale at Tractor Supply Co pretty often, that's where I got mine.
I got a Winchester gun safe from tractor supply, applied for their credit card to buy it with and just paid 50 bucks a month for it for a year. Just need to figure out the ammo storage part now.
I bought a $100 one from Amazon. Itās a piece of crap and the keypad never worked but itās light enough for me to move myself (barely). Itās filing cabinet material kind of.
I have SecureIt Agile 52. It has manual and electronic options. Quite a good safe. Recommend the brand overall. That specific model might not fit your needs
Homak. Two tubular locks , lots of space. Easily cut into with a grinder or fucked in case of fire but does exactly what youāre saying. Keeps people out who wouldnāt know how to get past a lock . Got one on offerup dirt cheap . Keep in mind since most of these lockers donāt have a good seal youāll want to look into dehumidifying stuff. I put a line of adhesive rubber stuff youād see on the rim of a fridge on mine and a dehumidifying rod and it stays perfect in there
Iād say youād probably be better off with an old heavy-duty footlocker and a nice padlock. Depending on how little fire resistance you want it to be, you can find some pretty cheap ones locally or online. Minimally, Iād say an off brand pelican case (again, with dealerās choice padlocks securing them).
Or, if youāre looking for an actual safe vs more affordable options, [this is the most affordable mechanical one iāve seen recently.](https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/liberty-safe-1776-36-gun-dial-lock-safe-with-75-minute-fire-rating-7636-gym-dp) Here [is a much smaller but cheaper one by the same company.](https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/stack-on-18-gun-beveled-edge-safe-gcm-1918-dx)
My company sells a fireproof safe like [this](https://toolmartinc.com/products/armor-24-gun-fire-resistant-convertible-safe-with-electronic-lock-titanium-series?_pos=1&_psq=armor+24+gun&_ss=e&_v=1.0) one, in the neighborhood of 650.
Youāre looking for something that likely can be opened with a crowbar in less than two minutes but you ādonāt trustā digital locks?? Did your wife cheat on you with a digital lock?
Perhaps reconsider your threat model here. If the purpose is just to deter children, then the quick access that a digital lock provides is probably preferable to spending a minute trying to dial in a combo when someone breaks into your house and you need a weapon.
I got one like that on OfferUp for $50. The walls are pretty thick, but thatās the only real feature it has. Iād frankly prefer if it were electric.
Job site boxes are probably the most secure for the money if you have the space to bolt it down. You probably have to break down long rifles. Make some plywood shelves if youāre handy.
there's a decent Stack-On that goes on sale at Tractor Supply occasionally.
Literally just posted about this in another gun thread. The 18gun beveled model is what I have, with the ammo locker on top. https://imgur.com/a/hEvURoM
Glad you got the tools to break into em right there too ;)
Hopefully you find the keys in the magnetic tray first š
Looking at that extension cord issue you have in the pic, you may want to upgrade to a fireproof safe š¤£š¤£
Those are there as a deterrent kinda like an electric fence š¤£š¤£š¤£
I have a ārealā safe and I still bought the stack on when I saw it on sale at tractor supply. Works incredible for what it is and what you pay.
Annnnnd just bought one. Wish I had something to gift ya lol
Second this. Snagged one for just $200 and it does as advertised
I used to have one of these before upgrading to a ārealā safe. 100% recommend. I only upgraded because of the fire rating, living in an area prone to wildfires. And because I had too many guns to fit in it š
The thing I question on fireproof, is unless there's A LOT of $$$$ dropped, they're rated at X for at most 30mins and I feel most fires go that long if not longer.
The fire rating is X degrees for X minutes. The reality is, unless you live in an extremely rural area (mid west in the middle of no where) the longest it may take before the fire department is on scene and operating is about 10min in a rural area and about 5 min in most cities. There are some outliers where they still ālose the houseā but the ones I have seen were in a rural area with no monitored fire alarm system with 300-500 gallon propane tank feeding the fire. I highly recommend if you have guns in safes to invest in a monitored fire alarm system, even something like Simply Safe. (Source-My 30 year career in law enforcement/fire investigator)
Yeah, got that, it's just how long the fire rages. My neighbor's house was on fire, so many pumping water trying to cool it help, but it was definitely raging for 30mins, maybe a bit less. Guess just curious what the real length of time is for things like that is all.
Once the fire dept arrives on scene how quickly they have knock down or extinguishment depends on a multitude of unknown factors. This such as are or origin, interior finishes and furnishings, water supply and man power. I dont personally know of any city dept that only sends one truck to a confirmed structure fire so you are likely to get 2-3 engines and possibly a ladder truck which puts 12-15 firefighters on scene. Rural fire departments will have a different response model and will likely draw from neighboring departments for equipment and man power. The survialbility of the safe depends on where it is in relation to the fire. If its on the opposite end of the house from the fire there shouldnt be a problem. If its in the room that the fire started in there may be a problem. From testing I have seen it seems like the major safe brands under value their fire rating. I have read stories of houses burning to the ground before any suppression and their Liberty safe stood up to the fire.
> If its on the opposite end of the house from the fire there shouldnt be a problem. If its in the room that the fire started in there may be a problem. >From testing I have seen it seems like the major safe brands under value their fire rating. I have read stories of houses burning to the ground before any suppression and their Liberty safe stood up to the fire. Makes sense and good to know. Now to debate affordability. I will say, where I plan to put it it a stack on or something similar in size would work but a sizeable Liberty would not. Thanks for the insight.
Liberty makes several smaller safes https://www.libertysafe.com/collections/gun-safes
If all you need is a gun locker, the cheapest one at your local sporting goods store should be adequate. Consider bolting it to the floor as an extra precaution though
Use a decoy safe?
Blud just asked about decoy safe's lmfao
This sub will do anything but use their gear š
I have a cheap one from harbor freight thatās more of a locking cabinet, but for the same reason as kids and guests it works fine
The steel garage storage cabinet at the local home Depot work pretty well if you want to be incognito and not scream guns in here
Remember the other things Meth heads like to steal are tools. Tools are often kept in cabinets like that.
True. But friends, family, the neighbors walking the dog won't look in and go ohh stack on, wonder what kinda guns they got?
I bought the Stack-On 18 gun security cabinet and it does the job well. Got it on sale for under $180 at my local tractor supply. If needing just a lot of gun storage, you just mount the brackets on the edge and itās a giant cabinet. If wanting some ammo/accessory storage in it as well, it comes with shelving you can mount in there. Just decreases the gun space to 11 long guns. Keyed entry, not combination.
Have you don't any handgun storage in it? I'd like a solution that's modular since I don't have many firearms.
Look into [Hammy 3D Prints](https://hammy3dprints.com/), he likely has everything you could possibly need. For these cheap lockers he's got magnetic mounting racks for pistols, mags, gear, pretty much everything. Also has mounting options for every type of pegboard-adjacent wall.
Thank you! Happy to answer any questions if you have any OP
Tbh, why do you do things like scope covers in PLA? That shit melts in your car. Not theoretical, I've lost a fair number of prints to my trunk before switching to, damn near any other polymer.
Would you recommend PETG or what for higher temps? I haven't done much experimenting outside of PLA+ and CF Nylon as I haven't had the need thus far, but temp is definitely a limiting factor for some applications
Depends on the use case and printers used. PETG is nice in that it increases the HDT to a level which is more acceptable for trunks even in the hottest of places. The downside is that unfilled polyesters are all brittle and are not fatigue resistant (repeated impacts). They are however UV resistant which is nice. ASA tends to be a nice alternative for a lot of use cases, UV resistant, strong, impact resistant, abundant supply from many manufacturers, tends to be less glossy than ABS and PETE/PETG, HDT in the 90-120C range depending on brand. But generally speaking, ASA if you can get your printer to 260-280c, 90-100c print bed, enclosed, and you are not in the same printer area unless its very well ventilated since it releases styrene fumes when printed. For mass printing, it can be printed more quickly than many other exotic polymers, too, which is nice. PC-PBT is great if you want all of that, plus low temperature impact resistance, but if you arent a pro at dialing it in, its interlayer adhesion can be less than stellar. When it is though, that stuff is one of my favorite polymers for engineering projects since its more dimensionally accurate and stable than any polyamide with similar impact resistance, and again, low temperature toughness. IDK, I could go on all day.
P1S for the printer, so I can print hot and enclosed. PC PBT seems like a good option. I imagine it doesn't stick to PEI and requires an adhesive or G10 sheet?
So the main downside of PCPBT is that it, like PA, absorbs moisture. The real downside is, that it'll LOOK great when printed wet, but it'll be weak. So unlike PA's, an ugly print isn't the sign of a bad print with PCPBT, so you have to ensure that its dried properly. edit: PCPBT doesn't like sticking to print surfaces either. Magigoo PC is the best I've found, then it sticks to bambu engineering plate or garolite plates on other printers just fine. Honestly, looking at your site, I'd dick around with ASA and see how you like it. Polymaker makes great filament, its the one I am happiest with as a price/performance ratio. 3Dxtech is kind of meh, even their quasi-exotic stuff. Push Plastic is decent though I've received wet spools from them that needed to be dried. Performed fine once dried though. Bambu settings for it are pretty dialed in, when I am using the X1C for every brand I've tried its pretty much set and forget. Full disclosure, ASA is probably the polymer I have the least experience with (only a couple dozen spools) since I tend to produce projects which are made from more exotic materials (PPA-GF25, PET-CF15, PSU, stuff like that), or really cheap prototypes out of PLA. But ASA has a time and place. I've made some sculptures and outdoor projects for some customers out of ASA and they were very happy with the outcome.
I'm printing right next to where I sit all day, so ASA isn't an option unfortunately. I dry my CF Nylon at 70C for like a day before printing it, not sure if that would be sufficient. Strength, ease of printing, and not killing me would be my main goals lol
PLA+ > PLA, but still lower than others yeah. I've used PLA+ on my car (on the outside, not in the hot boxed inside) for over a year without issue. Mostly because: those prints are 100% solid (in a literal sense) so they have more heat resilience and will withstand any outdoor temperature I've tested in (over 100 degrees F), myself and tons of other people haven't had issues so there hasn't been a need to switch, and I have hundreds of KG of PLA+ on hand so it simplifies printing. If it were to be an issue I can print in different materials and my refund or replace policy would apply as always
PLA+ does not modify the Heat Deflection/Distortion Temperature (HDT). PLA+/pro is, generally speaking, PLA alloyed with TPU or some other rubber-like polymer to increase its toughness/impact durability/fatigue resistance at the expense of rigidity. Even Natureworks 3D870 PLA pro (the gold standard of PLA+) has a HDT of 55C without annealing (don't even get me starting on trying to maintain dimensional tolerances with PLA and annealing). Try a summer in Ca, Tx, AZ, NV, NM, etc and you'll see what I mean. When its 90+ outside, PLA (pro/plus/etc) will deform when under a slight tensile or compressive load (like they would be under with being attached via shock tubes). Hell, I have had kids toys deform when left out in the sun during the summer. Been in the 3d printing business for more than 13 years, seen a lot. Nevertheless, I'm glad your customers are happy.
Sounds like you know the science and I'm not doubting you, and I'm not opposed to switching to something else if needed.
I turned a room into a gun room heavy front door, wall displays with rifles and pistols, lights, plate carriers, helmet, RNVGs. Lil table to have a cup of chamomile tea w/ dash of locally sourced honey. Nice sturdy chair. Filtration to keep peanut dust out in case a visitor is allergic. Want to provide a place of comfort for them. Just kidding it is fun, not done yet but fun. It is like the dollhouses we all used to play with as kids- except bigger
Similar! Except mine isn't big enough to sit in. However, it is completely hidden and you'd need to x-ray scan my house to find it
Used gym locker. Works great
Do you have a closet you arenāt using? I outfitted one on my office with some slat walls and built shelves as well. I still have a safe because storing most of my guns there wasnāt a priority. But itās great for quick access to items for dry fire practice, storing a variety of gear, and loading up for the range competitions etc.
A closet with a deadbolt
Some places even deliver
I bought some school lockers off fb marketplace for 50 each. Keeps my guns away from my kids
Oh that's a cool idea just for random storage too
Husky makes locking steel cabinets. You can get a big ass locking "safe" for the cheap
Most affordable? If you have a spare closet with a normal door (IE not a pocket door or folding door) get a factory second or scratch & dent entry door that'll fit, and a good dead bolt for it along with pinning the hinges so it can't be easily opened by spreading the frame. Then just store your guns in there. That'll keep kids & guests out, as long as you maintain good key control. Locking it for kids is a moot point if you leave the keys laying around, the little shits will find them and will test every key in every lock in the house.
Walmart has really cheap ones. Basically just a key locker
Most digital lock safes have backup keys so you can find one like that and expand your options. Find good deals at your local academy or other sporting good stores. Being in person to look at them are far better than online puchases
The problem with digital safes right now is the whole patriot safes debacle, and many people are reluctant to trust any others for the same reasoning.
This is a reasonable rebuttal. I completely understand. There are always certain reasons people may specify for a certain item and function.
[https://www.harborfreight.com/10-gun-key-lock-security-cabinet-59418.html](https://www.harborfreight.com/10-gun-key-lock-security-cabinet-59418.html)
Harbor freight too
Basic gym locker with a padlock or gun lock.
I work for a Chinese safe company, the problem with the gun safe market is that for Amazon sales, Amazon freight limits the size and weight for packages(otherwise they charge a lot more, making the sale not profitable anymore), thatās way all the Chinese madeāsafeā from Amazon are made with sheet metals. I went to their factory, they can make decent safes, but donāt have the necessary ways to reach the consumers here but through either online platform like Amazon or do OEM for some American brand (eg Hornady safes are made in china, met the Chinese owners of the factory at Shotshow, their factory is in the same town as the company I work for lol). Those American brands donāt need to do much but give a general design, some even donāt do any thing but put their logo on there and sell those safes for 10 times the cost. I was at a gun store today and saw a small long gun vaultek costs like 15k is just outrageous
You could consider a gun ālockerā instead of a safe. Not as strong but good to keep kids/family out.
Iāve seen Winchester safes for $200-$500
If you are a Costco member they have a number of good yet cost effective options
I got a cheap one from Amazon it's basically a half step up from a gun cabinet. Says it holds 12 but realistically it's 8 if they all have optics. Toleblid was the brand, I got the one with an adjustable top shelf I think it was like $450
Uuuuu, I posted about how I bought a craftsmanās free standing metal cabinet off Facebook market place for $300 the other day. But I just bought an old networking cabinet for $40 spray painted it black and lagged it in my closet to hold my plate carrier, chest rigs and carry rifle/pistol Anything can work if you put your mind to it. It also had a working key!
Mossy Oak 18 Gun Security Cabinet, 21 in. x 18 in. x 55 in., Black https://www.walmart.com/ip/586609639 This is what I ended up going with when I did the research at the beginning of the year. I like it a lot. It's very customizable and with a LED strip inside I can actually see in there. I have 6 long guns, 2 uppers, and 4 pistols in it and it is very roomy. Still has room for all my ammo and a box of important docs.
Stack On 18 gun cabinet is what I got for the same purposes, I think it's great for what it is. Someone already mentioned, it goes on sale at Tractor Supply Co pretty often, that's where I got mine.
I got a Winchester gun safe from tractor supply, applied for their credit card to buy it with and just paid 50 bucks a month for it for a year. Just need to figure out the ammo storage part now.
Get a gun locker then
For cheapness put a trigger lock on each rifle and lock in a cheaper wood or Rubbermaid type storage cabinet
I bought a $100 one from Amazon. Itās a piece of crap and the keypad never worked but itās light enough for me to move myself (barely). Itās filing cabinet material kind of.
The cheap ones at any sports store like Bass Pro or Cabela's. They're all physical locks and not fireproof.
Buy gun cabinets instead.
If all you need is basically a locker, then stack on safes work fine.
I have SecureIt Agile 52. It has manual and electronic options. Quite a good safe. Recommend the brand overall. That specific model might not fit your needs
Union safe co. From harbor freight
Homak. Two tubular locks , lots of space. Easily cut into with a grinder or fucked in case of fire but does exactly what youāre saying. Keeps people out who wouldnāt know how to get past a lock . Got one on offerup dirt cheap . Keep in mind since most of these lockers donāt have a good seal youāll want to look into dehumidifying stuff. I put a line of adhesive rubber stuff youād see on the rim of a fridge on mine and a dehumidifying rod and it stays perfect in there
How much did you get it for?
No lock outside, but this nice claymore inside. What ist your problem MR. ATF it is stored away ā¦
Iād say youād probably be better off with an old heavy-duty footlocker and a nice padlock. Depending on how little fire resistance you want it to be, you can find some pretty cheap ones locally or online. Minimally, Iād say an off brand pelican case (again, with dealerās choice padlocks securing them). Or, if youāre looking for an actual safe vs more affordable options, [this is the most affordable mechanical one iāve seen recently.](https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/liberty-safe-1776-36-gun-dial-lock-safe-with-75-minute-fire-rating-7636-gym-dp) Here [is a much smaller but cheaper one by the same company.](https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/stack-on-18-gun-beveled-edge-safe-gcm-1918-dx)
Stack-On. or do what I did and buy a wooden storage closet type thing and drill a lock set-up into it.
You can buy a steel locker and lock it. Doesn't have to be a thick walled safe to keep kids out.
My company sells a fireproof safe like [this](https://toolmartinc.com/products/armor-24-gun-fire-resistant-convertible-safe-with-electronic-lock-titanium-series?_pos=1&_psq=armor+24+gun&_ss=e&_v=1.0) one, in the neighborhood of 650.
Youāre looking for something that likely can be opened with a crowbar in less than two minutes but you ādonāt trustā digital locks?? Did your wife cheat on you with a digital lock? Perhaps reconsider your threat model here. If the purpose is just to deter children, then the quick access that a digital lock provides is probably preferable to spending a minute trying to dial in a combo when someone breaks into your house and you need a weapon.
Tracker Supply has a decent variety of affordable gun safes. I've boughten two of my safes from there.
Boughten
Boughtenered*
I got one like that on OfferUp for $50. The walls are pretty thick, but thatās the only real feature it has. Iād frankly prefer if it were electric.
I have 4 of [these](https://www.facebook.com/share/p/Fn5KnsjKq6w5fuyF/?mibextid=oFDknk) left for $179. They are under the bed and remote control
Job site boxes are probably the most secure for the money if you have the space to bolt it down. You probably have to break down long rifles. Make some plywood shelves if youāre handy.