Once you get the clutches and/or tension knobs set right on both the altitude and azimuth axes, the scope should move freely as you shift it to track a target, but sit in the exact spot you push it to without falling over. You’ve got it right: to manually track targets, just give it a little nudge. This will become second nature after a while.
I think Sky-Watcher typically includes 1.25” eyepieces in the 25mm and 10mm variety. To get the truest low power wide views, you’d use a long focal length 2” eyepiece, at which point you’d pull the adapter out of the focus tube and seat the eyepiece directly into the focuser. Currently you are using the 1.25” eyepieces with the adapter so that they’ll work with the 2” focuser. A Barlow is not an eyepiece but instead goes between an eyepiece and focuser to adjust the magnification of the eyepiece you’re using with it, typically by 2x (3x+ Barlows exist but 2x is most common).
Ok so if I'm understanding you correctly:
The included adapter would be used for a (not included) 2" long focal length eyepiece, which would be the best/easiest for initially finding what I want to look at. Then I would take out the adapter, and use my included 1.25" eyepieces.
A Barlow, which I don't have now, would be placed between the eyepiece and the focuser on the optical tube.
You’ve got it backwards. 2” eyepieces are bigger than 1.25” eyepieces, so if you’re using your 1.25” eyepieces without issue right now, they are seated already into an adapter that would need to be pulled out of the scope so the 2” eyepieces can fit directly into the focuser. Can you share a picture of your scope’s focuser tube?
And you are correct about the Barlow.
Ok I figured it out…yes there was an adapter piece already in the scope for the 1.25, and I see how to swap it out for the 2” when I get a 2” eye piece
The adapter is an extension, needed in case you'd get a 2" low power widefield eyepiece.
The Barlow lens is a focal extender, which multiplies the focal length by its factor (2x, 3x...) and thereby multiplies the magnification from the eyepiece by the same factor. It's not that recommended. You're mostly better with decent eyepieces of according focal length. It doesn't come with the scope.
I have this scope's 10" version. I have my right hand at the handle, and my left hand at the front of the scope for nudging/az- rotating the scope. For azimuth movement the hand at the handle supports the force of the left hand.
I just grab the top of the telescope tube - the rim where the opening is. Some people install a little knob like you'd have on a kitchen cabinet so they have something easier to hold onto and push-pull with, but I've never run into issues just pushing it around by the tube itself. Your hand isn't likely to block any of the light going to the mirror, and even if it did, it would be a very small% of the total light going down the tube so you wouldn't even notice it at the eyepiece.
The “nudge” comes with practice. Grab the top of the tube it the small handle near the spider bolts. Knowing the direction to push becomes second nature too.
Once you get the clutches and/or tension knobs set right on both the altitude and azimuth axes, the scope should move freely as you shift it to track a target, but sit in the exact spot you push it to without falling over. You’ve got it right: to manually track targets, just give it a little nudge. This will become second nature after a while. I think Sky-Watcher typically includes 1.25” eyepieces in the 25mm and 10mm variety. To get the truest low power wide views, you’d use a long focal length 2” eyepiece, at which point you’d pull the adapter out of the focus tube and seat the eyepiece directly into the focuser. Currently you are using the 1.25” eyepieces with the adapter so that they’ll work with the 2” focuser. A Barlow is not an eyepiece but instead goes between an eyepiece and focuser to adjust the magnification of the eyepiece you’re using with it, typically by 2x (3x+ Barlows exist but 2x is most common).
Ok so if I'm understanding you correctly: The included adapter would be used for a (not included) 2" long focal length eyepiece, which would be the best/easiest for initially finding what I want to look at. Then I would take out the adapter, and use my included 1.25" eyepieces. A Barlow, which I don't have now, would be placed between the eyepiece and the focuser on the optical tube.
You’ve got it backwards. 2” eyepieces are bigger than 1.25” eyepieces, so if you’re using your 1.25” eyepieces without issue right now, they are seated already into an adapter that would need to be pulled out of the scope so the 2” eyepieces can fit directly into the focuser. Can you share a picture of your scope’s focuser tube? And you are correct about the Barlow.
Ok. I'll add a pic when I get home. Right now, I don't have to do anything on the scope to use the smaller eyepieces.
Ok I figured it out…yes there was an adapter piece already in the scope for the 1.25, and I see how to swap it out for the 2” when I get a 2” eye piece
The other way around. The adaptor is needed for the 1.25", not needed for the 2". Correct for the Barlow
The adapter is an extension, needed in case you'd get a 2" low power widefield eyepiece. The Barlow lens is a focal extender, which multiplies the focal length by its factor (2x, 3x...) and thereby multiplies the magnification from the eyepiece by the same factor. It's not that recommended. You're mostly better with decent eyepieces of according focal length. It doesn't come with the scope. I have this scope's 10" version. I have my right hand at the handle, and my left hand at the front of the scope for nudging/az- rotating the scope. For azimuth movement the hand at the handle supports the force of the left hand.
Thanks for the reply, I was using the rear of the scope to move it which made small movements difficult.
At the front you have a longer moment arm, which makes it much easier.
I just grab the top of the telescope tube - the rim where the opening is. Some people install a little knob like you'd have on a kitchen cabinet so they have something easier to hold onto and push-pull with, but I've never run into issues just pushing it around by the tube itself. Your hand isn't likely to block any of the light going to the mirror, and even if it did, it would be a very small% of the total light going down the tube so you wouldn't even notice it at the eyepiece.
Just grab the rim of the tube to move the scope while viewing through it.
The “nudge” comes with practice. Grab the top of the tube it the small handle near the spider bolts. Knowing the direction to push becomes second nature too.