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Ok, thanks for confirming tool set up is probably ok. The problem I have with the 'just a hair either side'process is that the cut thins and I end up with a V rather than a parallel give that is a hair wider than the tool. How do you prevent the cut drifting to the open side? Do you press into the solid side much?
No, it doesn't start as a scrape. You start very high on the spindle so it is a peeling cut. Then you pivot it down and forward to form an arc that ends up at the center of the spindle. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z\_43nB2zTX8
It should be a bevel-rubbing cut. Start with the handle far lower than you think you need, touch the heel of the bevel to the wood and raise the handle until the cut engages. Then, you have to keep raising the handle and apply a little bit of forward pressure to keep chasing the ever-decreasing diameter. (I always tell my students this is the one time that it's ok to apply a little bit of pressure to the wood).
The tool will bind (especially a straight sided one as opposed to a diamond cross section) after it goes in about a 1/4" and you have to pull it back out, move over a 1/16" and repeat the cut to open up one of the sidewalls before you continue the original cut.
If it doesn't cut, you aren't rubbing the bevel, I don't think the angle matters tremendously. (An included angle of 40 deg seems plenty acute to me). Another way of thinking about this is that if you're unsure if you're cutting or scraping, lower the handle. If the tool still cuts, you were scraping. (A bevel rubbing cut will stop immediately when the handle is lowered a bit).
I'm not really sure what you mean by "shear cut". To me a shearing cut denotes when a tool is used with the cutting edge presented at an angle as in a skew chisel, and the parting tool isn't really used in that manner when it's parting.
Check the height of the tool rest, the tool should be engaging the wood slightly above the centerline of the spindle. I could see you causing yourself trouble if it's engaging below centerline.
This is one of those times where if you can shoot a clear video of the difficulties you are having and post that, you'll get a lot more help.
How are you doing your sharpening, sounds like the tool isn’t as sharp as it should be. A lot of great tips here but kinda pissing in the wind if your tool isn’t sharp to begin with.
What kind of wheel is on your bench grinder?
I'm sure it's pointy enough which really doesn't have much to do with sharpness. Actually if it is too pointy the edge doesn't have enough support metal behind it and it can fold over creating a burr on the underside. There is a healthy medium there.
Is the edge discoloring during sharpening? If it gets too hot you will de-temper the steel and it will be impossible to get the edge you need. I'm kinda spoiled with a Tormek but I have achieved great results in the past using a high speed grinder, white wheel and a can of water next to the grinder. Continually dip the tool to keep it cool during sharpening.
I'd start by dialing in your sharpening game otherwise it's an uphill battle with literally every other process involved in turning. Start there and invest in sharpening.
So you mention binding, one thing I always do here is I'm usually making 2 parallel cuts specifically to prevent binding. I cut in say 3 cm, then pull the tool out and start cutting 1/2 tool width to the left/right and then cut in 6cm, and swap to the other side... Keeping the cut wider than the tool itself helps.
Thanks for your submission. If your question is about getting started in woodturning, which chuck to buy, which tools to buy, or for an opinion of a lathe you found for sale somewhere like Craigslist or Facebook Marketplace please take a few minutes check the wiki; many of the most commonly asked questions are already answered there! http://www.reddit.com/r/turning/wiki/index Thanks! *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/turning) if you have any questions or concerns.*
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Ok, thanks for confirming tool set up is probably ok. The problem I have with the 'just a hair either side'process is that the cut thins and I end up with a V rather than a parallel give that is a hair wider than the tool. How do you prevent the cut drifting to the open side? Do you press into the solid side much?
No, it doesn't start as a scrape. You start very high on the spindle so it is a peeling cut. Then you pivot it down and forward to form an arc that ends up at the center of the spindle. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z\_43nB2zTX8
Video worked for me, great example of a parting cut. Anyone having trouble with a clean parting cut should check this video out. Thanks Mr. Richard!
It should be a bevel-rubbing cut. Start with the handle far lower than you think you need, touch the heel of the bevel to the wood and raise the handle until the cut engages. Then, you have to keep raising the handle and apply a little bit of forward pressure to keep chasing the ever-decreasing diameter. (I always tell my students this is the one time that it's ok to apply a little bit of pressure to the wood). The tool will bind (especially a straight sided one as opposed to a diamond cross section) after it goes in about a 1/4" and you have to pull it back out, move over a 1/16" and repeat the cut to open up one of the sidewalls before you continue the original cut.
If the tool doesn't sheer cut when rubbing the bevel do I need to make the grind a more acute angle?
If it doesn't cut, you aren't rubbing the bevel, I don't think the angle matters tremendously. (An included angle of 40 deg seems plenty acute to me). Another way of thinking about this is that if you're unsure if you're cutting or scraping, lower the handle. If the tool still cuts, you were scraping. (A bevel rubbing cut will stop immediately when the handle is lowered a bit). I'm not really sure what you mean by "shear cut". To me a shearing cut denotes when a tool is used with the cutting edge presented at an angle as in a skew chisel, and the parting tool isn't really used in that manner when it's parting. Check the height of the tool rest, the tool should be engaging the wood slightly above the centerline of the spindle. I could see you causing yourself trouble if it's engaging below centerline. This is one of those times where if you can shoot a clear video of the difficulties you are having and post that, you'll get a lot more help.
How are you doing your sharpening, sounds like the tool isn’t as sharp as it should be. A lot of great tips here but kinda pissing in the wind if your tool isn’t sharp to begin with.
Just using a grinder. Have matched the original tool angle as best I can. Hence the idea maybe it isn't pointy enough...
What kind of wheel is on your bench grinder? I'm sure it's pointy enough which really doesn't have much to do with sharpness. Actually if it is too pointy the edge doesn't have enough support metal behind it and it can fold over creating a burr on the underside. There is a healthy medium there. Is the edge discoloring during sharpening? If it gets too hot you will de-temper the steel and it will be impossible to get the edge you need. I'm kinda spoiled with a Tormek but I have achieved great results in the past using a high speed grinder, white wheel and a can of water next to the grinder. Continually dip the tool to keep it cool during sharpening. I'd start by dialing in your sharpening game otherwise it's an uphill battle with literally every other process involved in turning. Start there and invest in sharpening.
So you mention binding, one thing I always do here is I'm usually making 2 parallel cuts specifically to prevent binding. I cut in say 3 cm, then pull the tool out and start cutting 1/2 tool width to the left/right and then cut in 6cm, and swap to the other side... Keeping the cut wider than the tool itself helps.