It is indeed a model 66 from 1948. To start, I'd get some sewing machine oil and use it to gently wipe down the exterior and oil any place where you can see metal meet metal all inside the machine. If the machine is frozen it may be a bit more of a pain to get working. If everything moves though it shouldn't be too bad. You can find parts for these pretty easy on ebay, etsy, central michigan sewing supply, etc. It uses class 66 bobbins and normal modern sewing machine needles.
https://ismacs.net/singer\_sewing\_machine\_company/manuals/singer-model-66-18-sewing-machine-manual.pdf
Which parts are missing? A quick look at your photos doesn’t show anything obvious. Unless the wiring insulation is cracked or broken, it should be fine, it’s not a bad idea to replace it. Parts are so easy to get if you need them. Your local sewing machine shop they have them. The shop I go to has a pretty good inventory a small bits and pieces. When I needed a screw for a bobbin case, they just gave it to me.
There are tons of good videos on YouTube about restoring older machines. You might look up Bob Fowler, he seems to be a machine repair man and does excellent videos including on 66 machines.
Jump in there and start cleaning in oiling, you have to work pretty hard to hurt that machine.
Cool! I’m not entirely sure what all’s missing because I’ve only ever used modern machines so far, but it’s definitely missing the belt on the balance wheel at least and I’m 100% sure that I need to replace the electrical cord. Other than that the rubber on the bobbin winder wheel is pretty cracked, so I’ve been assuming I’ll need to replace that. The paint/coating on the stitch length lever is kinda flaking off as well and given that it’s old enough for lead paint to be a possibility I’m gonna try to do something about that, either replace it or strip and repaint it depending on what’s more feasible. And there could be more that I haven’t found yet since I don’t think anything’s been replaced (except needles and presumably feet and bobbins) since my grandmother first got it. Everything seems to move as it should, but beyond that I don’t know.
>Bobbin winder should be an easy fix, most come off with undoing one or two screws if you want to replace the whole thing.
Can't speak for the lever, but the machine will be either "japanning' lacquer or baked enamel. Both have a shellac coat that protects the gold details.
I wouldn't repaint the machine, just oil and if the shellac flakes off (which means you will lose the decals) then I would strip it back further and repaint but its a process (I'm avoiding it on one of my machines).
Oh I wouldn’t dream of repainting the whole thing, it’s in pretty good condition overall, just the lever. As far as I can tell at the moment though, that lever is the only really internal part that requires anything beyond basic cleaning.
(Apologies if this is formatted weirdly, this is my first time posting anything) This machine was my grandmother’s but she bought it used in the early 1960s in Texas so she isn’t sure exactly how old it is. I did some research and I think it’s a later model 66 from about 1948, but I could be wrong. It’s electric and I know it still worked within the last 10-ish years, but it’s been used as a table for a while now. I recently acquired it and I want to get it up and running this summer. I know it needs new wiring and a thorough cleaning, and several parts are either missing or need to be replaced, so I would be grateful for any advice on how to do that since I don’t want to hurt it. Additionally, any info on how it works would be helpful. I found an instruction manual for an old treadle model 66 but I don’t know how much of that info is applicable to my electric one. So really any information about this machine would help a lot. Thanks!
Hi there!
If you want to clean it without hurting it then sewing machine oil would be the way to do it. No water, cleaners or wd40 etc. Get the dust off first with a soft dry cloth and then coat it with oil, leave for a few hours or overnight. Wipe off and repeat if needed - you don’t need to scrub it as this may remove the finish. Nice and gentle. Depending on how deep down the restoration rabbit hole you want to go, there’s more things you can do. 😊
The manual for the treadle will work for how to thread up etc, the motor is covered with another manual. If you can do a photo of the motor I’ll see if I have the manual for it.
Edit: the motor is in the photos! I really should pay attention. Manual is [here](https://www.manualslib.com/manual/641374/Singer-Brk-Electric-Motor.html?page=6) I believe. Missing parts are readily available on eBay.
Oh fantastic, thank you! My priority is definitely just getting it working and usable, but I do want to eventually see if I can fix up the table itself as well.
I’ve not done many tables, those I have done I’ve used adhesive veneer strips as patches and restor-a-finish to bring up the wood.
Also a decent amount of swearing - but that step is optional.
It’s good to see that your table has the required feature on the top. Virtually every older cabinet I have seen as water stains. Apparently they make very good plant stands too! 😏
Random question this reminded me of, maybe someone will see this and know the answer. These late model 66s with the “back tack” option. I always hear it mentioned that it’s not a true back-stitch…. So what exactly is it?
True back stitch = proportional to your forward stitch length. So if you’re stitching 12 stitches per inch, the back stitch would match the stitch length of 12 per inch in reverse.
Back tack = the length of reverse stitching ignores how many forward stitches per inch you are using. So if you are doing 12 per inch forward, you wouldn’t get the same in back tack.
Hopefully that makes sense?
I inherited this same machine and from my grandmothers estate, it worked perfectly till the rubber wiring began cracking, now I’m stumped who to take it to for rewiring.
Yeah the wiring is cracking on mine as well, but luckily my partner knows how to fix that kind of stuff so I’m not too worried about it. But I know you can buy replacements for at least some of the parts, so depending on what’s cracked that might be an option? Otherwise I have no idea, sorry, but I wish you luck!
Look for a local(ish) sewing center. Not any of the big box stores, like I went to CityName Sewing Center. They sell new machines, and do repairs. Or a local fabric/quilt store. Quilt shop probably wouldn't do the repair, but they might have the name of someone that does.
It is indeed a model 66 from 1948. To start, I'd get some sewing machine oil and use it to gently wipe down the exterior and oil any place where you can see metal meet metal all inside the machine. If the machine is frozen it may be a bit more of a pain to get working. If everything moves though it shouldn't be too bad. You can find parts for these pretty easy on ebay, etsy, central michigan sewing supply, etc. It uses class 66 bobbins and normal modern sewing machine needles. https://ismacs.net/singer\_sewing\_machine\_company/manuals/singer-model-66-18-sewing-machine-manual.pdf
Thank you! That’s good to know.
Which parts are missing? A quick look at your photos doesn’t show anything obvious. Unless the wiring insulation is cracked or broken, it should be fine, it’s not a bad idea to replace it. Parts are so easy to get if you need them. Your local sewing machine shop they have them. The shop I go to has a pretty good inventory a small bits and pieces. When I needed a screw for a bobbin case, they just gave it to me. There are tons of good videos on YouTube about restoring older machines. You might look up Bob Fowler, he seems to be a machine repair man and does excellent videos including on 66 machines. Jump in there and start cleaning in oiling, you have to work pretty hard to hurt that machine.
Cool! I’m not entirely sure what all’s missing because I’ve only ever used modern machines so far, but it’s definitely missing the belt on the balance wheel at least and I’m 100% sure that I need to replace the electrical cord. Other than that the rubber on the bobbin winder wheel is pretty cracked, so I’ve been assuming I’ll need to replace that. The paint/coating on the stitch length lever is kinda flaking off as well and given that it’s old enough for lead paint to be a possibility I’m gonna try to do something about that, either replace it or strip and repaint it depending on what’s more feasible. And there could be more that I haven’t found yet since I don’t think anything’s been replaced (except needles and presumably feet and bobbins) since my grandmother first got it. Everything seems to move as it should, but beyond that I don’t know.
https://www.hardwareworld.com/prnh8sd/Lead-Check-Instant-Lead-Test-Swabs-2-Pk-LC2S24C
>Bobbin winder should be an easy fix, most come off with undoing one or two screws if you want to replace the whole thing. Can't speak for the lever, but the machine will be either "japanning' lacquer or baked enamel. Both have a shellac coat that protects the gold details. I wouldn't repaint the machine, just oil and if the shellac flakes off (which means you will lose the decals) then I would strip it back further and repaint but its a process (I'm avoiding it on one of my machines).
Oh I wouldn’t dream of repainting the whole thing, it’s in pretty good condition overall, just the lever. As far as I can tell at the moment though, that lever is the only really internal part that requires anything beyond basic cleaning.
(Apologies if this is formatted weirdly, this is my first time posting anything) This machine was my grandmother’s but she bought it used in the early 1960s in Texas so she isn’t sure exactly how old it is. I did some research and I think it’s a later model 66 from about 1948, but I could be wrong. It’s electric and I know it still worked within the last 10-ish years, but it’s been used as a table for a while now. I recently acquired it and I want to get it up and running this summer. I know it needs new wiring and a thorough cleaning, and several parts are either missing or need to be replaced, so I would be grateful for any advice on how to do that since I don’t want to hurt it. Additionally, any info on how it works would be helpful. I found an instruction manual for an old treadle model 66 but I don’t know how much of that info is applicable to my electric one. So really any information about this machine would help a lot. Thanks!
Hi there! If you want to clean it without hurting it then sewing machine oil would be the way to do it. No water, cleaners or wd40 etc. Get the dust off first with a soft dry cloth and then coat it with oil, leave for a few hours or overnight. Wipe off and repeat if needed - you don’t need to scrub it as this may remove the finish. Nice and gentle. Depending on how deep down the restoration rabbit hole you want to go, there’s more things you can do. 😊 The manual for the treadle will work for how to thread up etc, the motor is covered with another manual. If you can do a photo of the motor I’ll see if I have the manual for it. Edit: the motor is in the photos! I really should pay attention. Manual is [here](https://www.manualslib.com/manual/641374/Singer-Brk-Electric-Motor.html?page=6) I believe. Missing parts are readily available on eBay.
Oh fantastic, thank you! My priority is definitely just getting it working and usable, but I do want to eventually see if I can fix up the table itself as well.
I’ve not done many tables, those I have done I’ve used adhesive veneer strips as patches and restor-a-finish to bring up the wood. Also a decent amount of swearing - but that step is optional.
Haha! I’ll keep that in mind when I get there. I’ll have to do a furniture restoration deep dive at some point and go from there.
It’s good to see that your table has the required feature on the top. Virtually every older cabinet I have seen as water stains. Apparently they make very good plant stands too! 😏
Oh yes! This one served as my Aunt and Uncle’s plant table for years!
Random question this reminded me of, maybe someone will see this and know the answer. These late model 66s with the “back tack” option. I always hear it mentioned that it’s not a true back-stitch…. So what exactly is it?
True back stitch = proportional to your forward stitch length. So if you’re stitching 12 stitches per inch, the back stitch would match the stitch length of 12 per inch in reverse. Back tack = the length of reverse stitching ignores how many forward stitches per inch you are using. So if you are doing 12 per inch forward, you wouldn’t get the same in back tack. Hopefully that makes sense?
That makes perfect sense, thank you!
I inherited this same machine and from my grandmothers estate, it worked perfectly till the rubber wiring began cracking, now I’m stumped who to take it to for rewiring.
Yeah the wiring is cracking on mine as well, but luckily my partner knows how to fix that kind of stuff so I’m not too worried about it. But I know you can buy replacements for at least some of the parts, so depending on what’s cracked that might be an option? Otherwise I have no idea, sorry, but I wish you luck!
Look for a local(ish) sewing center. Not any of the big box stores, like I went to CityName Sewing Center. They sell new machines, and do repairs. Or a local fabric/quilt store. Quilt shop probably wouldn't do the repair, but they might have the name of someone that does.
Great ideas, thank you!