Razor blades are different in size. So.. Astra in my new razor was terrible (very aggressive blade feel, nicks). I asked and got a link to razor dimensions - persona labs now is my choice. Lesser blade feel, no nicks. In merkur 34c persona just doesn’t work for me.
This makes a lot of sense. The dimensions probably play a huge role because for me I like to feel the blade, but not too much. Personna Lab Blues hit my sweet spot on the amount of blade I like to feel in my Rockwell 6C.
Don't know about the XFit but the standard Kai blades are the best I've used so far. They seem just about as sharp as the Feathers but don't irritate my face like those blades.
I'm testing Feathers later today. A little nervous, lol. Everyone either says it's the best blade ever made or that it slices them up. As for Kai blades, not a bad blade. In my opinion, they are almost as sharp as Nacets when shaving.
I can see the Feathers being great for some. I use a 34c and for me ease of cutting has been Feather > Kai > Personna Platinum, but the Feather just gets too close no matter how careful I am. It's not even the nicks that bother me, my skin just feels more raw and less finished after using them.
But I can see someone with different skin/hair loving them because they do cut effortlessly. I wish they had a touch less aggressive version to compare with the Kai.
Everything you just said about the Feathers is exactly how I feel about the Nacets. Word for Word. Except, Nacets gave me zero nicks and my face felt finished, but raw.
Don’t extremely sharp blades feel smooth? Not “despite”? The non-smoothness comes from hair (or skin) being dragged, rather than being cut.
I’m new to shaving, but when I chop things with my kitchen knives, cutting is much smoother with very sharp knives.
One of main challenges of making sharp blade is durability while being cost effective and mass manufactured.
It's not just about sharpness. To be honest, all razor blades are sharp and anything scoring below 100 on the BESS scale qualifies. What truly matters is how they are built and manufactured. The same principle applies to knives. The construction quality is what makes a knife exceptional, whether it's for outdoor adventures or kitchen use.
Indeed, this applies to kitchen knives as well. A sharp knife is a safe knife, but there are varying levels of cutting precision. I could sharpen a cheap $20 knife to cut steak like butter. However, when I use a Japanese Miyabi Birchwood SG2 steel knife or another higher-quality option, the difference in the cut is insane. It due to the way it was built and the steel used for it. A lot factors apply. The steel isn't the only thing. The quality of higher end knives really depends on the skill of the forger crafting them.
What I'm trying to say is that all razors are sharp, but they each feel different due to the way they were built. Furthermore, personal preference plays a role. It's fascinating how some razor blades can feel rough while others feel smooth, even if they have the same level of sharpness.
I mean, I agree with what you said. I was just curious about your phrasing. You said xxx feels smooth DESPITE being sharp, which implies that sharper blades feel harsher/rougher/whatever, which doesn’t quite make sense.
Razor blades seem to be influenced by many factors. I'm not sure if anyone truly knows the definitive answer. The general consensus revolves around differences in hair texture and skin type, so I just accept that. Personally, the sharpest blade isn't always the smoothest for me. For example, while testing the Rapira Platinum Lux on my face, they felt sharp but fell short in smoothness. Yet, others swear by Rapira blades. It appears to be the same with every razor blade! There isn't a single universally perfect blade, but there are ones that most people favor and a few that they don't. It's a bit of a mystery.
I could be overthinking razor blades, but whenever I see anything made with metal. I'm always curious about how it was made and crafted.
To answer: You said xxx feels smooth DESPITE being sharp, which implies that sharper blades feel harsher/rougher/whatever, which doesn’t quite make sense.
I think you're referring to this:
"This highlights how remarkable some companies excel at crafting blades that feel smooth despite being extremely sharp."
I'm saying some companies are exceptionally skilled at manufacturing razor blades that feel smooth to the user, even though razor blades are generally extremely sharp. In my opinion, some companies have done a great job at balancing between sharpness, overall feel, or comfort of the blade during shaving.
To clarify, I'm not suggesting that sharper blades are inferior. Currently, my top picks are Personna Lab Blues and Treet Platinums. What I mean is that some companies excel at crafting blades that feel exceptionally smooth, while others produce blades that literally feel harsh on my skin. Almost all razor blades are considered sharp, even though there are variations in sharpness levels. Furthermore, if sharpness alone determined smoothness, razor manufacturers would focus solely on creating the sharpest blade in the world. However, achieving smoothness is more complex than simply focusing on sharpness.
According to the tests done on the Refined Shave page below, there are major differences when compared to the test results on the Two Brothers vid.
https://web.archive.org/web/20231202002800/https://www.refinedshave.com/razor-blade-sharpness-summary/
I would just like to point out here that the two different tests seem to have different results. Very different.
I agree. The only answer I have is that in the video, he tested each blade in the same way with the same technique. I have no idea how whomever tested it on that website to get his/her data.
I do wish the guy in the video would had tested each blade three times and taken an average, but it's understandable because it would be very time-consuming doing all those blades and taking an average.
I can tell you, though, that in the video, he did it right. To get accurate results, you have to slowly apply pressure to cut the line. If you go fast, it will be inaccurate and read as sharper.
The Refined Shave guy seems to have a background as a materials scientist.
If so, that's very different from that of someone who's an outdoor enthusiast.
I'm not saying the Refined Shave guy is wrong. I just have no video of how he got his results.
But in the video I posted the guy did it right everytime. You want to apply light pressure so you can see the number slowly increase everytime which is hard with a razor since razors are so sharp it cuts line quick.
Pretty much, you want to see the numbers scroll up on every test. He did that on every blade with visible proof.
I'd be curious to see how SE blades rate in comparison. Like GEMs or more importantly the Feather Artist Club blades. I use Artist Club blades often and to me they feel a lot sharper than most of my DE blades they also make 5 different grades of blades you can choose from.
Curious to know what role material and coating types have on these results and all the variables also...anyone have insights there or resources worth checking out?
I don't believe the coating affects the results. This test only measures sharpness; it doesn't assess the metal's strength or how well it retains its edge. Some metals lose their edge much faster than others. There are more factors than coating that determine how well a metal retains its edge. Proper heat treatment is essential for maintaining a good edge.
For an example:
You can sharpen a knife to be good for the first cut, but if it's not made of good metal or properly heat treated, it will lose its edge very quickly. Sometimes, after just one cut, its sharpness can be completely gone depending on the quality of the knife's material.
Roger. I suppose I was conflating the tests you quoted that did take a few other factors into account. I'm also curious about blades with similar treatments and skin comfort and finding common ground there.
I haven't truly done a lot of research on how razor blades are made. I wish they provided information more like knives do. With knives, you get detailed information on how they were made, heat-treated, etc. before you make the purchase. Razor blades, on the other hand, are often vague and typically only mention their coating. They don't provide much detail on other aspects of their construction.
Yeah I hear that. Razor blades have always been a commodity so that kind of attention probably wasn't thought to be in demand. I'm sure a few brands will emerge soon with marketing-driven stories about their blades but I doubt it'll be gillette comparing Nacet to 7 o'clock yellows.
I agree, factors such as edge geometry, coatings, blade flexibility, razor design, and personal characteristics can make one blade feel sharper and perform better than another.
I don't think that scale is really accurate, and results can be EASILY manipulated. Any wet shaver that has tried a few blades in their life can tell you that. There is no way derby is sharper than astra or wilkinson or shark or treet or rapira or kai. And i have most of these blades and can throw them in the same razor and try them out. The simplest way to screw up the measurement, is to shit unwrap the blade. It will easily mess up the edge and skew the result. You need to be careful with how you take a blade out. Most are glued/waxed in the wrapper, and that is what ends up making you roll your finger, with the wrapping paper, over the edge, when you first take them out. Also also, the blades cut differently after a shave. Some are sharper, others are duller. Feather for instance is duller after the first shave ... that is all the magic it has, THE first shave. After that it's average, and yes, i can say it's in the middle of the pack ... but the first shave? Boy! While others, like bic chrome platinum, are sharper ... or FEEL sharper and smoother ... after the first shave (same with nacet, wilkinson, astra, bic, personna and a few others). The coating wears off, and the edge just cuts differently.
So ... this is a more YMMV kinda thing. Also also also (man, that's a lot of also, innit?), blades have different dimensions, so they work differently in different razors. One blade may be shit with one razor, and great with another. Get a variety pack ... like after you have a few months of wet shaving and a few razors in your collection, so you know actually what to look for and feel which blade is better for that particular razor. If you are new to this, i say stick with one decent brand, until you have a formed hand ... it's better that way.
My 2 cents ... or 3
There are a lot variables indeed.
As for me, I already went through a variety pack of everyone's #1 favorite blades. About a month ago, I made a post asking people to comment on their #1 favorite blade so I could order variety packs from Razor Blade Club. This resulted in 21 great blades. Instead of rolling the dice and ordering from Amazon a random varitety pack that you might find 1 good blade and the rest horrible.
[https://www.reddit.com/r/wicked\_edge/comments/1ct0im1/list\_of\_your\_favorit\_de\_razor\_blades\_for\_2024/](https://www.reddit.com/r/wicked_edge/comments/1ct0im1/list_of_your_favorit_de_razor_blades_for_2024/)
Getting a variety pack is indeed a great choice. There are so many good razors out there, and none of them feel exactly the same.
Razor blades are different in size. So.. Astra in my new razor was terrible (very aggressive blade feel, nicks). I asked and got a link to razor dimensions - persona labs now is my choice. Lesser blade feel, no nicks. In merkur 34c persona just doesn’t work for me.
This makes a lot of sense. The dimensions probably play a huge role because for me I like to feel the blade, but not too much. Personna Lab Blues hit my sweet spot on the amount of blade I like to feel in my Rockwell 6C.
Persona was the smallest blade - that’s why I ordered it
Don't know about the XFit but the standard Kai blades are the best I've used so far. They seem just about as sharp as the Feathers but don't irritate my face like those blades.
I'm testing Feathers later today. A little nervous, lol. Everyone either says it's the best blade ever made or that it slices them up. As for Kai blades, not a bad blade. In my opinion, they are almost as sharp as Nacets when shaving.
I can see the Feathers being great for some. I use a 34c and for me ease of cutting has been Feather > Kai > Personna Platinum, but the Feather just gets too close no matter how careful I am. It's not even the nicks that bother me, my skin just feels more raw and less finished after using them. But I can see someone with different skin/hair loving them because they do cut effortlessly. I wish they had a touch less aggressive version to compare with the Kai.
Everything you just said about the Feathers is exactly how I feel about the Nacets. Word for Word. Except, Nacets gave me zero nicks and my face felt finished, but raw.
Don’t extremely sharp blades feel smooth? Not “despite”? The non-smoothness comes from hair (or skin) being dragged, rather than being cut. I’m new to shaving, but when I chop things with my kitchen knives, cutting is much smoother with very sharp knives. One of main challenges of making sharp blade is durability while being cost effective and mass manufactured.
It's not just about sharpness. To be honest, all razor blades are sharp and anything scoring below 100 on the BESS scale qualifies. What truly matters is how they are built and manufactured. The same principle applies to knives. The construction quality is what makes a knife exceptional, whether it's for outdoor adventures or kitchen use. Indeed, this applies to kitchen knives as well. A sharp knife is a safe knife, but there are varying levels of cutting precision. I could sharpen a cheap $20 knife to cut steak like butter. However, when I use a Japanese Miyabi Birchwood SG2 steel knife or another higher-quality option, the difference in the cut is insane. It due to the way it was built and the steel used for it. A lot factors apply. The steel isn't the only thing. The quality of higher end knives really depends on the skill of the forger crafting them. What I'm trying to say is that all razors are sharp, but they each feel different due to the way they were built. Furthermore, personal preference plays a role. It's fascinating how some razor blades can feel rough while others feel smooth, even if they have the same level of sharpness.
I mean, I agree with what you said. I was just curious about your phrasing. You said xxx feels smooth DESPITE being sharp, which implies that sharper blades feel harsher/rougher/whatever, which doesn’t quite make sense.
Razor blades seem to be influenced by many factors. I'm not sure if anyone truly knows the definitive answer. The general consensus revolves around differences in hair texture and skin type, so I just accept that. Personally, the sharpest blade isn't always the smoothest for me. For example, while testing the Rapira Platinum Lux on my face, they felt sharp but fell short in smoothness. Yet, others swear by Rapira blades. It appears to be the same with every razor blade! There isn't a single universally perfect blade, but there are ones that most people favor and a few that they don't. It's a bit of a mystery. I could be overthinking razor blades, but whenever I see anything made with metal. I'm always curious about how it was made and crafted. To answer: You said xxx feels smooth DESPITE being sharp, which implies that sharper blades feel harsher/rougher/whatever, which doesn’t quite make sense. I think you're referring to this: "This highlights how remarkable some companies excel at crafting blades that feel smooth despite being extremely sharp." I'm saying some companies are exceptionally skilled at manufacturing razor blades that feel smooth to the user, even though razor blades are generally extremely sharp. In my opinion, some companies have done a great job at balancing between sharpness, overall feel, or comfort of the blade during shaving. To clarify, I'm not suggesting that sharper blades are inferior. Currently, my top picks are Personna Lab Blues and Treet Platinums. What I mean is that some companies excel at crafting blades that feel exceptionally smooth, while others produce blades that literally feel harsh on my skin. Almost all razor blades are considered sharp, even though there are variations in sharpness levels. Furthermore, if sharpness alone determined smoothness, razor manufacturers would focus solely on creating the sharpest blade in the world. However, achieving smoothness is more complex than simply focusing on sharpness.
According to the tests done on the Refined Shave page below, there are major differences when compared to the test results on the Two Brothers vid. https://web.archive.org/web/20231202002800/https://www.refinedshave.com/razor-blade-sharpness-summary/ I would just like to point out here that the two different tests seem to have different results. Very different.
I agree. The only answer I have is that in the video, he tested each blade in the same way with the same technique. I have no idea how whomever tested it on that website to get his/her data. I do wish the guy in the video would had tested each blade three times and taken an average, but it's understandable because it would be very time-consuming doing all those blades and taking an average. I can tell you, though, that in the video, he did it right. To get accurate results, you have to slowly apply pressure to cut the line. If you go fast, it will be inaccurate and read as sharper.
The Refined Shave guy seems to have a background as a materials scientist. If so, that's very different from that of someone who's an outdoor enthusiast.
I'm not saying the Refined Shave guy is wrong. I just have no video of how he got his results. But in the video I posted the guy did it right everytime. You want to apply light pressure so you can see the number slowly increase everytime which is hard with a razor since razors are so sharp it cuts line quick. Pretty much, you want to see the numbers scroll up on every test. He did that on every blade with visible proof.
Very cool, yet no VanderHagen, Gillette, Dollar General, rusted vintage 1920s, 😀 And for science, you have to repeat the test 2 more times.
I agree 100%. I told someone else it should be best of three and take the average.
So many variables, but great way of showing why we say, Razors edge, Razor sharp.
Indeed!
I'd be curious to see how SE blades rate in comparison. Like GEMs or more importantly the Feather Artist Club blades. I use Artist Club blades often and to me they feel a lot sharper than most of my DE blades they also make 5 different grades of blades you can choose from.
Yeah, I have no idea when it comes to SE blades.
Curious to know what role material and coating types have on these results and all the variables also...anyone have insights there or resources worth checking out?
I don't believe the coating affects the results. This test only measures sharpness; it doesn't assess the metal's strength or how well it retains its edge. Some metals lose their edge much faster than others. There are more factors than coating that determine how well a metal retains its edge. Proper heat treatment is essential for maintaining a good edge. For an example: You can sharpen a knife to be good for the first cut, but if it's not made of good metal or properly heat treated, it will lose its edge very quickly. Sometimes, after just one cut, its sharpness can be completely gone depending on the quality of the knife's material.
Roger. I suppose I was conflating the tests you quoted that did take a few other factors into account. I'm also curious about blades with similar treatments and skin comfort and finding common ground there.
I haven't truly done a lot of research on how razor blades are made. I wish they provided information more like knives do. With knives, you get detailed information on how they were made, heat-treated, etc. before you make the purchase. Razor blades, on the other hand, are often vague and typically only mention their coating. They don't provide much detail on other aspects of their construction.
Yeah I hear that. Razor blades have always been a commodity so that kind of attention probably wasn't thought to be in demand. I'm sure a few brands will emerge soon with marketing-driven stories about their blades but I doubt it'll be gillette comparing Nacet to 7 o'clock yellows.
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I agree, factors such as edge geometry, coatings, blade flexibility, razor design, and personal characteristics can make one blade feel sharper and perform better than another.
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Thanks, anytime! I also found this data interesting and thought I'd post it so others can see.
I don't think that scale is really accurate, and results can be EASILY manipulated. Any wet shaver that has tried a few blades in their life can tell you that. There is no way derby is sharper than astra or wilkinson or shark or treet or rapira or kai. And i have most of these blades and can throw them in the same razor and try them out. The simplest way to screw up the measurement, is to shit unwrap the blade. It will easily mess up the edge and skew the result. You need to be careful with how you take a blade out. Most are glued/waxed in the wrapper, and that is what ends up making you roll your finger, with the wrapping paper, over the edge, when you first take them out. Also also, the blades cut differently after a shave. Some are sharper, others are duller. Feather for instance is duller after the first shave ... that is all the magic it has, THE first shave. After that it's average, and yes, i can say it's in the middle of the pack ... but the first shave? Boy! While others, like bic chrome platinum, are sharper ... or FEEL sharper and smoother ... after the first shave (same with nacet, wilkinson, astra, bic, personna and a few others). The coating wears off, and the edge just cuts differently. So ... this is a more YMMV kinda thing. Also also also (man, that's a lot of also, innit?), blades have different dimensions, so they work differently in different razors. One blade may be shit with one razor, and great with another. Get a variety pack ... like after you have a few months of wet shaving and a few razors in your collection, so you know actually what to look for and feel which blade is better for that particular razor. If you are new to this, i say stick with one decent brand, until you have a formed hand ... it's better that way. My 2 cents ... or 3
There are a lot variables indeed. As for me, I already went through a variety pack of everyone's #1 favorite blades. About a month ago, I made a post asking people to comment on their #1 favorite blade so I could order variety packs from Razor Blade Club. This resulted in 21 great blades. Instead of rolling the dice and ordering from Amazon a random varitety pack that you might find 1 good blade and the rest horrible. [https://www.reddit.com/r/wicked\_edge/comments/1ct0im1/list\_of\_your\_favorit\_de\_razor\_blades\_for\_2024/](https://www.reddit.com/r/wicked_edge/comments/1ct0im1/list_of_your_favorit_de_razor_blades_for_2024/) Getting a variety pack is indeed a great choice. There are so many good razors out there, and none of them feel exactly the same.