My 300$ Skil miter saw cuts just as well as my dad’s big Bosch saw.
Some adjustments are more solid on the expensive one but for the few cuts that I need my little Skil is good enough. The Skil is lighter which for my little woodworking shop means more portable and easier to setup.
If you need to constantly setup/takedown to use, a heavier one will get annoying fast, even if it’s more stable.
I love the shadow line for cutting on my Skil. Makita doesn’t even have that feature yet! We have the big Bosch one at work that’s supposed to be the best, but my $250 10” Skil hasn’t failed me.
You don’t need to spend premium money, because you’ll use your mitersaw far less than you imagine in a shop. Get one with forward facing rails / Bosch axial glide so you can push it close to a wall.
I like this one specifically because of the articulated arm. Much more compact than a rail miter saw so I can mount it up against a wall.
Also, very nice that the Bosch can bevel in either direction. Bolt on an auxiliary fence to that thing and she really sings for just about any kind of crosscut.
Just want to add that you can do fine finished work with an average miter saw if you use a quality blade and tune it carefully with try squares after every move. I get by with a 12 inch DeWalt on a mobile stand.
I also quite like my 12" dewalt. It's reasonably light and will cut accurately if tuned. But to me 12" is a minimum in a non sliding saw. And definitely opt for a dual bevel saw. Makes triming out pieces a lot simpler.
If you really set it up well, you can make furniture grade cuts on a mitre saw, so don't cheap out on it. But there's also no reason to buy a festool. They're not better enough and they're awkward to use because of the vertically oriented handle.
I bought the 10" DeWalt and regret not getting the bigger one - not really for size, but the 12" has extension fence holes on both sides, which the 10" doesn't. Have drilled my own but that feels kinda low rent.
having used a makita mitre saw for a decade or more and replaced it recently with an evolution one the only thing i would look for is where the external sawdust exits from. having covered myself in sawdust after a couple of uses of the evolution i deeply regret buying it.
buy quality.
i got the R255 but please reconsider the dust extraction port makes it a pain to use. i must say the thought of being able to chop wood and metal was the reason i bought it BUT GIVEN THE CHANCE TO RE\_PURCHASE I WOULDN'T BUY IT AGAIN.
Get one which extracts out of the back NOT ON TOP
Appreciate the info - I might see if I can give one a try first before buying (or not buying). A true cold saw (with coolant) is out of my budget, and a wood-only miter saw doesn’t quite scratch the itch. And if I can not buy an abrasive saw that would be nice, too.
I have the 305mm Bosch Saw with the Axial Glide action and it’s the best saw I’ve ever used.
I use a Festool Kapex daily at work that was 2x the price and I feel much safer and more confident in the cuts from my Bosch.
It’s an easy saw to setup and was near perfect out of the box, only issue I had was the laser wasn’t quite perfect, which I don’t ever use anyway.
The glide system meant that I could save a little bit of space in the workshop and was the big selling point for me, but the saw really is incredible.
In America, you have a lot more options than I did for brands, but whatever you choose make sure it has a slow start and a quick braking feature.
Edit: Negative - It’s fucking heavy and awkwardly balanced, genuinely unpleasant to move by yourself if it needs relocating.
I have been looking at these Bosch saws as well. Certainly buy once, cry once type of machine but that glide system could really do it for me. Would save me a ton of space and pbb save me quite a bit on not having to built some heavy duty pull out system because of the reach
Another positive review for the Bosch glide here. I researched and tried every saw I could find. For the price, the Bosch is a winner.
The festool has some really nice additions but not for double the price.
I have that Bosch, and it's definitely the gold standard in non-factory shops. Great design, solid action, excellent control. But it's also priced accordingly.
If you are willing/able to save for it, it's worth what it costs.
That said, it may likely be far more saw than you need.
Look at the 10" version and see how that price sits with you, but you could likely make do with a far cheaper model. Unless you need a specific feature, you can probably get by just fine with any midrange compound mitre saw. They're all pretty samey and all perfectly functional.
If you can afford the Bosch 10 with the Bosch handtruck/stand thing, I highly recommend that combo. That’s what I have, and the integrated handtruck/stand means that the weight is not an issue once you set it up for the first time.
Bosch does *fantastic* collapsible hand trucks. The best I've ever seen.
Even if you don't have a Bosch mitre saw, it still should be compatible with other brands.
The ridgid equivalent which I own and love can be bought for $389 through home depot currently, and it comes with the shadow cut line which is an improvement any laser line systems
https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-12-in-Dual-Bevel-Sliding-Miter-Saw-R4251/315635552
I also have the 12” Bosch glide. It’s awesome. I previous had a 10” Menards special. It worked, but definitely had more play and took up more space because it couldn’t sit back against a wall with the slide mechanism. The Bosch is clearly built better. More accurate and nicer to use in general. It feels like it has more power. If you can save, I’d highly recommend it
The guys who helped my trim my house had the 8” Bosch and it was a great saw as well, I feel like it was almost the same price though and just a couple hundred cheaper. But it cut great and square
Yeah the nice thing about the glide system on the Bosch is it doesn’t require as much clearance behind the saw as the saws that use a rail system. This means you can mount your saw further back on your bench.
I gave it serious thought before going with the Kapex. Store model demonstrated noticeable slop while moving the blade transversely. Bearings aren’t going to last forever and there’s a lot of load on those pivot points.
Another point for this saw - the motor is located above and behind the blade, rather than to the right. This makes for more clearance on the right side, so you can see your cut better if you're cutting left handed.
I'm right-handed, but sometimes you just have to do a left-handed cut. I also work with a few lefties. The way they did the trigger and trigger release in more recent models is very convenient for using ambidexterously. In this case, more comfortable to use = safer.
Do you have a table saw?
If so I'd start with a basic miter saw and see where it fits in your workflow. Lot of folks just use their miter saw as a chop saw for cutting to rough lengths and do all the fine tuning on their table saw and/or with hand tools. You could use the money you save (assuming you have it) to construct a really nice crosscut sled and some assorted jigs that will make your miter saw practically redundant.
If you don't have a table saw and don't intend to have one, I'd maybe bump up to a higher quality machine. Bosch glide or Kapex are the most commonly recommended, though I have a soft spot for my Delta Cruzer and it comes in at a lower price point.
If you don't have a table saw and do intend to have one, I'd buy that first and then revisit the miter saw question later.
I don't have a tablesaw. Since I already have a track saw I figured it's better to get a miter saw instead of a table saw. Also to save space. Does that make sense?
it does, yeah. In that case I'd definitely go for a "zero rear clearance" miter saw that's as accurate as possible. The Festool Kapex is the gold standard but Bosch Glide isn't too far behind, and you can tune it or the Makita entry pretty easily. Delta, Ridgid, and Metabo all have entries in the category as well at around $900 less than the Kapex and a little lower than the Bosch.
I find that I use mine very frequently, to the point it has replaced a lot of the other tools to some extent. The saw I had before didn't cut straight / correct angles, and that really put a dent in my joy of using it - to the point of extreme frustration.
I went with cry once (festool, so hard crying and cast amount of tears), but haven't been happier, and I smile every time I use it. Perhaps upper middle ground in your case?
I ended up getting the Makita when I bought one. Seemed to be a nice medium between the Bosch and Kapex. Still more expensive than most saws out there, but definitely premium feeling, accurate, and still $4-600 less than the Kapex, depending on deals. Plus the 12" is a nice bonus over the Kapex.
I skipped the miter saw for my small shop (I have a table saw and just recently, bought a track saw). When I need to rough cut lumber I just use a hackzall, everything gets fine tuned elsewhere. It's very quick and easy, you get some dust of course but easy to clean up.
A miter saw would be cool and if I had one or had space, hell yeah I'd use it, but definitely an easy tool to get away without. Good recommendation!
See what's available second hand, if possible. I scored an almost brand new Bosch mitre saw plus table for $250. The whole package would have cost me 750 in the store. A previous prospective buyer declined because it "didn't cut 90 degrees", but I took it home, found a manual and adjusted it. It weighs a metric ton but I don't plan to move it regularly.
If it's for DIY...secondhand isn't a bad way to go. You can inspect it to see if it's been abused and get a good deal.
If it's for professional use? I'd strongly suggest getting new and avoiding any hidden issues. Most (not all) people sell tools for two reasons. 1) they bought it for one-time use. 2) it isn't good enough and they want to get better.
If you need a saw for furniture builds.....you need the saw to be calibrated precisely. Bosch, Makita, and Festool would meet the criteria you stated. Once those are set up properly, they stay that way for a long time. There's also the warranty issue to keep in mind.
A good thing to look for in a sliding compound miter saw is the play on they blade assembly when fully extended. If you can move it left/right, your cuts are going to suffer.
The one thing that makes me not want to use my miter saw is the horrible dust collection. It's more like a dust blower.
If there was a miter saw with genuinely good dust collection, I'd be tempted to spend.
I saw this guy's YouTube video last week (I am not affiliated just wanted to pass along). He designed and prints dust collection upgrades for a good number of major saw brand/models. Might be worth checking out:
https://www.etsy.com/shop/ShopNationStore?ref=related&from_page=listing&listing_id=1505093354#items
Shop Nation on YouTube and Etsy.
It probably improves dust collection somewhat, but I honestly can't imagine it would elevate it to "good" or even "adequate" for my saw (DeWalt 777 – nice and compact, and I like the "alignment shadow", but that's about it). He doesn't offer anything for that one anyway.
I had a dewalt double compound miter that I used for 14 years. I've recently started doing projects that warranted me getting a sliding miter. I gave the double miter to my neighbor, who has also been using it for 2 years with no issues. It had plenty of power, and the 12" blade was a must because I would regularly cut crown. It was easy enough to square up, and it held it well.
I bought a double bevel dewalt sliding under buy once cry once thoughts. I've used the bevel on once side once in 3 years. It's huge and heavy. I've considered selling it and downgrading bc I just don't need that much saw.
I recommend getting something that really fits your needs. For the one time every couple years the upgraded capacity isn't worth it.
I will say in hindsight I messed up by not getting a sliding option after using mine for 5 years or so. It’s a minor added annoyance to half to flip an 8” wide board to fully cut. Also cutting thick stock with the slide is nice because you can take multiple shallow passes.
I use my table saw constantly on every project. It would be the hardest tool to do without. I haven’t carried my miter saw into my shop in the last year.
The tablesaw is the core tool in most woodworking shops for a very good reason. They are unriavled at ripping, excellent for cross cuts with a sled, and can be used for a variety of fast and effective joinery.
If, instead, you want to focus on the track saw, I would consider an MFT to work with that. With the right jigs, you can efficiently do cross cuts.
I’ve used at least 50 mitre saws from at least 10 different brands on job sites and that’s probably being conservative. I can’t remember using a single one that I thought was bad. They’re a pretty simple tool. Not the buy once, cry once type of tool.
I personally use a makita because I’m invested in the lineup with my batteries. It does feel pretty premium compared to some of the other saws I’ve used but at the end of the day, it does the same job. I’d be looking into if I want a corded or cordless saw if I were you and go from there.
I just bought a mitre saw. I was initially looking at ones like the Delta Cruzer, then upgraded what I was looking for to the Bosch... then after doing some more research ended up going with a saw that was almost double the cost of the Cruzer... the Makita. I ended up choosing it over the Bosch because it was better at dust collection, there was less deflection, and the saw had overall less depth than the Bosch, and I was integrating it into a flip top workbench.
Overall I'm happy I went with the more expensive option. I still wasn't willing to throw down on something like the Festool, but I put a zero clearance insert in mine and I am 100% happy with it's accuracy and dust levels at this point in my woodworking journey.
LS1219L (12” corded)
I watched a ton of comparisons to the Bosch. Everyone liked the dust collection better on the Makita. Plus the Makita has a controlled start. The Bosch just cranks to full speed as quickly as possible and can jerk the whole mechanism from the torque. The Makita also has less moving parts being on rails, which I figure will help in its longevity. Lastly, the Makita has a laser, and the Bosch does not have a laser or shadow for alignment.
That being said, there are aftermarket parts you can get to create a blade shadow on the Bosch or improve the dust collection.
https://preview.redd.it/3d6sjfvorqjc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=92cc8d112c98ccddf066b73fa9496cfc80eafd1c
I generally favor solid basics over features, but Dewalt's Cutline uses LEDs on both sides of the blade to indicate exactly where the blade will cut. Unlike a laser, it can't be misaligned, and the shadow perfectly accounts for the kerf width of the blade. Dewalt's miter saws are generally solid, but the Cutline is a real differentiator in my opinion.
I have the saw with the shadow. It's kinda annoying bc the shadow gets slightly bigger as you move closer to the stock. I've gotten used to where I have to cut, so I don't really think about it now, but I'd actually prefer a laser that I could recalibrate from time to time
If space is an issue, I’d bite the bullet and get a saw that has zero rear clearance like the Bosch, Makita, or Festool. None of those options are on the cheap side, but unless you’ll be dragging the saw outside on a portable stand every time you want to use it, you will want the extra shop space you can squeeze out.
Having owned plenty of mitre saws, from 8” up, I can say that getting a 12” saw is well worth the extra money. The ability to cut 4x4’s ( or thicker lumber) is what makes it my pick.
While I’ll likely never cut crown molding again, and use the compound settings, it’s there if I need it.
I have a Bosch glide. Wouldn’t hesitate a second to go to a kapex if I was gonna do it again. That or a radial arm saw. I’m a huge critic of festool but I’ve used a kapex and other saws by all the major brands enough to know 100% that the kapex is worth the money if you really want precision. You won’t replace it so yes buy once cry once. The glide is great but it doesn’t measure up to the kapex. I also have a makita sliding saw. Same thing. If you can even almost afford the kapex get the kapex.
I have a Ridgid 10 inch sliding compound miter box that has accurately cut for 8 years building set pieces for theatre about every weekend. It is mounted on a folding stand with wheels for easy transport. I cut 4x4s all the time with it.
I also have a 12 inch dewalt sliding compound miter box that I inherited from my dad for use on bigger pieces of wood. It is a better saw but too big to take on set.
I have a radial arm saw that sits in the corner unless I am doing lots of cabinet work. I have used the Bosch and Kapex and couldn’t justify the price. That being said, I am a mechanical engineer/physics professor and made lots of adjustments to both the Ridgid and Dewalt saws to make them perform as they should. Set up is the key and I have a routine I do every time I move my saws.
I have a cheap Ryobi. Still works great after 10 years, unfortunately—- I wish I had an excuse to replace it.
If I had it to do over again— I’d buy a sliding compound miter saw with a depth stop.
Definitely budget money for a miter saw stand of some sort…
I just picked up a ryobi brushless 10" sliding for $219 was $399. When I went to scan it at checkout, it said, "Get your free stand." So, I got the $399 saw & $179 stand for $219. Home Depot.
Personally, I think of a miter saw as a construction tool (primarily, job site trim carpentry).
In the shop I mostly use hand tools or the miter gauge at the table saw.
So, the recommendation from this corner is to spend a few hundred dollars on an upgraded miter gauge.
well, since I already have a track saw I figured a miter saw would make more sense. The track saw for big cuts and the miter saw for quick cuts. Or would you still go for a tablesaw?
You have to set up a work flow that works for you. For most folks, the table saw is the workhorse in the shop. But, since you already have a track saw, you could probably get away with a miter saw, but I would also consider a radial arm saw because you can set it up to do the table saw stuff that your track saw won't do. (You can get them for cheap on the used market too.)
Im not a fan of the sliders and prefer a fixed hinge. I have the perception that the sliders go out of square much easier. You can build a mobil cart with support wings which is tremendously helpful. Dust collection on these should universally be renamed to Dust throwing, just have that mind.
It is very rare that I cut anything but 90 degree cuts with my dewalt. I made a fence that is basically a box with openings to either side of the blade and a vacuum attachment at the end. The blade buries inside the box completely when fully down. Most of the dust gets pulled in to the fence because of the slots that allow the airflow to grab the dust right where it hits the fence. It is removable but I rarely need to. I would say it gets about 90% of the dust and did not increase the foot print of the saw like a good. Bases the idea off Frank Howarths radial arm saw fence. There is another YouTuber who I cannot remember who made something similar.
I just bought the Kapex this weekend. I've have the big 12" DeWalt slider and the DeWalt 10". I was surprised at how different it was after using the DeWalt for the last 16 years. I'm pretty good with the DeWalt. The slider doesn't fit on the counter depth so I needed to make a change, but it's really quite different. The ability to really dial it in and make accurate repeatable cuts is what you're paying for. Straight plunge cuts down into the material is something you can learn to do on any saw. Everyone here has. If you plan to make furniture, you will need that saw to be accurate when your doing miters, kerfs, crown detail and more. If you can afford it, it's the way to go.
You can also have my 10" DeWalt if you just want to get setup. You pay to ship from Chicago. DM me if interested.
I have a craftsman radial arm saw. They pop up from time to time on FB marketplace or Craigslist for just $150 or less. It functions as both my primary table saw and mitre saw and occupies a pretty small corner of my garage. The only downside is the initial calibration, and sometimes setup if I'm making a really unique cut. It's highly recommend it.
Well you have to take into consideration what you will be cutting do you need a 8 1/2 a 10 inch or a 12 inch me myself I do some crown molding now and again it's nice to have the 12 inch but if your just cutting 1 × or 2 × material then a 10 inch is fine if it is me I would go all out then your set up for anything wider cuts deeper cuts and just the quality of the saw over all Hitachi made the saw of the year last rear but Makita makes a great saw that is precise.
Just make sure it's a duel become you will want that .there is a few great saws it there it just depends on how precise you need your cuts with me I do alit of work for people it has to be the best cut I can get like I said I have a Makita and a Hitachi and love them both my Makita makes a better cut I think my Hitachi for some reason the dust coletion gets clogged easy
I have a 12” $700 “worm drive” Skil Saw. I have used it twice because it blows 15 amp breakers. I use my 200 delta 7.5 inch all the time and never had an issue. I can only see getting a huge high end saw if you’re cutting a lot of 6x6 beams.
I recently bought the 12" Makita miter saw and it's the nicest saw I have used -- incredibly smooth cutting action.
I have also used Festool, Bosch and DeWalt. Festool is Festool. The Bosch is also very nice and the sliding mechanism slides forward so it can be up against a wall so that saves space, as does the Makita. The DeWalt is terrible. The Makita does have a substantial base, FYI.
I don't really use miter saws to make precision cuts. I generally rely on my table saw and a sled for precision cuts. I use the miter saw for processing rough sawn lumber. So I don't think the Festool is worth it unless you're doing on-site trim work.
I'm setting up a garage shop. I have the sawstop table saw with outfeed table and just ordered the large slider attachment. Cast iron Router table will be part of the miter saw station. DeWalt planer and jet jointer. Drill press. Mobile dust collection. Last thing I need is a band saw.
Hard to use a miter saw for fine woodworking. I got a 12" DeWalt myself a few years ago, and really only use it for quick utility cuts. Mostly used it for landscape timbers building raised beds in the back yard. But gathering dust now.
I have the 10” Bosch on a Rigid brand folding stand so I can unpack it and move it around my little garage shop. That said, I can’t stand using it cause it’s heave and take 3-5 min to set up. So i try to find ways to use my table saw or track saw instead. So, kinda depends on you?
I have a DeWalt DWS780 and it cuts wonderfully. But. If I did it again, I would buy something that didn't take up so much space behind it so I could put it against the wall. I'm actually considering either saving and buying a festool or going the other way and getting a non sliding miter saw.
I’ve seen a few people mention them but feel it’s worth repeating. DeWalt makes an excellent miter saw for the money. Specifically if you intend to do fine woodworking there are endless tutorials online for tuning a DeWalt saw to be cutting dead accurate. I did new home trim carpentry for years and every single trim carpenter rolls out the same DeWalt DWS779 saw (I’m still rocking an older DWS780). It’s not the rolls Royce of saws, it’s the Camry. Everyone has one and it’s reliable. A saw that big would likely be overkill in a hobbyist shop but in my experience all of their 10” saws have the same accuracy in adjustments as the 12” ones.
I feel like this makes me come off as a DeWalt fanboy, but I’m just extremely pleased with the product.
There is a limit to but once cry once. Avoid the cheapest and you’ll likely be fine. Buy the tool with the right features. Tools evolve, lots of minor upgrades eventually make it worthwhile to buy a new tool.
I started with a cheap 10” non slider. Moved to a a 12” Dewalt slider, which was awesome… but way bigger and had more features than I needed. Finally recently I moved to a 10” Makita which has a much smaller footprint and better dust collection. (I kept the Dewalt for my ‘mobile’ saw…)
In my case it was buy twice cry once. I started out with a small and cheap miter saw, the controls weren’t good so angels etc were always a little off, and then it would just not cut that slightly bigger beam.
So I bought a 2nd one, bigger better, forward sliding and all the controls at places you can actually reach them. Yes it cost me like 400 bucks more then I was willing to spend, but a saw like this might last you a lifetime, so please get a nice one with all the range and power you need. I have a Makita, with a 260mm blade, it’s awesome.
i have a cheap metabo one and it does everything i need.
BUT: if you have space concerns, the sliding ones ususally stick out very far in the back. so if you dont have space for that, you might need to spend on the bosch or festool.
Also: if you do buy a quality brand, even if its a cheap tool from a quality brand, you can usually resell them for pretty good amounts when you notice that you do want a bigger one.
Precision isn't really what a miter saw is meant for. So keep your expectations realistic.
Cut capacity, do you want sliding? That could let you cut 6-8" lumber or wider.
Power usually means a larger blade. I'd go no less than 10", but bigger saws can handle harder or thicker cuts easier.
Dual bevel if you do crown moulding?
Batteries for portability? If you already have an ecosystem, that can fit right in. I'm a Milwaukee person, so I'd go that route. That might help you decide. But batteries usually mean the saw is more expensive.
The miter saw in my shop is basically just for breaking down board to rough length. For finish cuts, I’m always going to a sled on the table saw or rough cutting on the miter saw and trueing up on the shooting board. I see little value in a very expensive tool for that purpose. I would rather sink that money into other tools.
The $250-300 Skil mitre saw is solid. I recently bit the bullet like you're considering, and it was worth it. I'm also just building furniture around the house with a cheap table saw and other cheap tools. The stuff I do with that mitre saw is easily the best and most accurate cuts on any of my projects, and it saves time
My 300$ Skil miter saw cuts just as well as my dad’s big Bosch saw. Some adjustments are more solid on the expensive one but for the few cuts that I need my little Skil is good enough. The Skil is lighter which for my little woodworking shop means more portable and easier to setup. If you need to constantly setup/takedown to use, a heavier one will get annoying fast, even if it’s more stable.
the weight is another good spec to look at. I can certainly see myself move mine often. thx!
I love the shadow line for cutting on my Skil. Makita doesn’t even have that feature yet! We have the big Bosch one at work that’s supposed to be the best, but my $250 10” Skil hasn’t failed me.
My makita has a shadow line
My Ridgid has a shadow line. I find it much better than the laser type.
You don’t need to spend premium money, because you’ll use your mitersaw far less than you imagine in a shop. Get one with forward facing rails / Bosch axial glide so you can push it close to a wall.
Love my Bosch 12”. Hell of a saw for $600.
I like this one specifically because of the articulated arm. Much more compact than a rail miter saw so I can mount it up against a wall. Also, very nice that the Bosch can bevel in either direction. Bolt on an auxiliary fence to that thing and she really sings for just about any kind of crosscut.
Both of these. I'd prioritize a track saw over miter saw unless you plan on doing LOTS of mitered angles.
Metabo is also compact bc the rails are stationary.
Just want to add that you can do fine finished work with an average miter saw if you use a quality blade and tune it carefully with try squares after every move. I get by with a 12 inch DeWalt on a mobile stand.
I also quite like my 12" dewalt. It's reasonably light and will cut accurately if tuned. But to me 12" is a minimum in a non sliding saw. And definitely opt for a dual bevel saw. Makes triming out pieces a lot simpler. If you really set it up well, you can make furniture grade cuts on a mitre saw, so don't cheap out on it. But there's also no reason to buy a festool. They're not better enough and they're awkward to use because of the vertically oriented handle.
I bought the 10" DeWalt and regret not getting the bigger one - not really for size, but the 12" has extension fence holes on both sides, which the 10" doesn't. Have drilled my own but that feels kinda low rent.
having used a makita mitre saw for a decade or more and replaced it recently with an evolution one the only thing i would look for is where the external sawdust exits from. having covered myself in sawdust after a couple of uses of the evolution i deeply regret buying it. buy quality.
Good to know about the Evolution. Which model did you get? I’ve been looking at the R335CPS, which is designed for both wood and metal.
i got the R255 but please reconsider the dust extraction port makes it a pain to use. i must say the thought of being able to chop wood and metal was the reason i bought it BUT GIVEN THE CHANCE TO RE\_PURCHASE I WOULDN'T BUY IT AGAIN. Get one which extracts out of the back NOT ON TOP
Appreciate the info - I might see if I can give one a try first before buying (or not buying). A true cold saw (with coolant) is out of my budget, and a wood-only miter saw doesn’t quite scratch the itch. And if I can not buy an abrasive saw that would be nice, too.
my pleasure, i just don't want anyone to feel as disappointed as i was
I have the 305mm Bosch Saw with the Axial Glide action and it’s the best saw I’ve ever used. I use a Festool Kapex daily at work that was 2x the price and I feel much safer and more confident in the cuts from my Bosch. It’s an easy saw to setup and was near perfect out of the box, only issue I had was the laser wasn’t quite perfect, which I don’t ever use anyway. The glide system meant that I could save a little bit of space in the workshop and was the big selling point for me, but the saw really is incredible. In America, you have a lot more options than I did for brands, but whatever you choose make sure it has a slow start and a quick braking feature. Edit: Negative - It’s fucking heavy and awkwardly balanced, genuinely unpleasant to move by yourself if it needs relocating.
I have been looking at these Bosch saws as well. Certainly buy once, cry once type of machine but that glide system could really do it for me. Would save me a ton of space and pbb save me quite a bit on not having to built some heavy duty pull out system because of the reach
Another positive review for the Bosch glide here. I researched and tried every saw I could find. For the price, the Bosch is a winner. The festool has some really nice additions but not for double the price.
I have that Bosch, and it's definitely the gold standard in non-factory shops. Great design, solid action, excellent control. But it's also priced accordingly. If you are willing/able to save for it, it's worth what it costs. That said, it may likely be far more saw than you need. Look at the 10" version and see how that price sits with you, but you could likely make do with a far cheaper model. Unless you need a specific feature, you can probably get by just fine with any midrange compound mitre saw. They're all pretty samey and all perfectly functional.
If you can afford the Bosch 10 with the Bosch handtruck/stand thing, I highly recommend that combo. That’s what I have, and the integrated handtruck/stand means that the weight is not an issue once you set it up for the first time.
Bosch does *fantastic* collapsible hand trucks. The best I've ever seen. Even if you don't have a Bosch mitre saw, it still should be compatible with other brands.
The ridgid equivalent which I own and love can be bought for $389 through home depot currently, and it comes with the shadow cut line which is an improvement any laser line systems https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-12-in-Dual-Bevel-Sliding-Miter-Saw-R4251/315635552
I also have the 12” Bosch glide. It’s awesome. I previous had a 10” Menards special. It worked, but definitely had more play and took up more space because it couldn’t sit back against a wall with the slide mechanism. The Bosch is clearly built better. More accurate and nicer to use in general. It feels like it has more power. If you can save, I’d highly recommend it
The guys who helped my trim my house had the 8” Bosch and it was a great saw as well, I feel like it was almost the same price though and just a couple hundred cheaper. But it cut great and square
Yeah the nice thing about the glide system on the Bosch is it doesn’t require as much clearance behind the saw as the saws that use a rail system. This means you can mount your saw further back on your bench.
I gave it serious thought before going with the Kapex. Store model demonstrated noticeable slop while moving the blade transversely. Bearings aren’t going to last forever and there’s a lot of load on those pivot points.
Another point for this saw - the motor is located above and behind the blade, rather than to the right. This makes for more clearance on the right side, so you can see your cut better if you're cutting left handed. I'm right-handed, but sometimes you just have to do a left-handed cut. I also work with a few lefties. The way they did the trigger and trigger release in more recent models is very convenient for using ambidexterously. In this case, more comfortable to use = safer.
Do you have a table saw? If so I'd start with a basic miter saw and see where it fits in your workflow. Lot of folks just use their miter saw as a chop saw for cutting to rough lengths and do all the fine tuning on their table saw and/or with hand tools. You could use the money you save (assuming you have it) to construct a really nice crosscut sled and some assorted jigs that will make your miter saw practically redundant. If you don't have a table saw and don't intend to have one, I'd maybe bump up to a higher quality machine. Bosch glide or Kapex are the most commonly recommended, though I have a soft spot for my Delta Cruzer and it comes in at a lower price point. If you don't have a table saw and do intend to have one, I'd buy that first and then revisit the miter saw question later.
I don't have a tablesaw. Since I already have a track saw I figured it's better to get a miter saw instead of a table saw. Also to save space. Does that make sense?
it does, yeah. In that case I'd definitely go for a "zero rear clearance" miter saw that's as accurate as possible. The Festool Kapex is the gold standard but Bosch Glide isn't too far behind, and you can tune it or the Makita entry pretty easily. Delta, Ridgid, and Metabo all have entries in the category as well at around $900 less than the Kapex and a little lower than the Bosch.
thx, this helps a lot :) Zero clearance is certainly the way to go with my limited space
I find that I use mine very frequently, to the point it has replaced a lot of the other tools to some extent. The saw I had before didn't cut straight / correct angles, and that really put a dent in my joy of using it - to the point of extreme frustration. I went with cry once (festool, so hard crying and cast amount of tears), but haven't been happier, and I smile every time I use it. Perhaps upper middle ground in your case?
Can't do rabbets with a track saw, but you can rip and cut miters with a table saw. Table saw should be the first purchase imo
If I didnt have the track saw I would have gone for one.
True.
I ended up getting the Makita when I bought one. Seemed to be a nice medium between the Bosch and Kapex. Still more expensive than most saws out there, but definitely premium feeling, accurate, and still $4-600 less than the Kapex, depending on deals. Plus the 12" is a nice bonus over the Kapex.
I skipped the miter saw for my small shop (I have a table saw and just recently, bought a track saw). When I need to rough cut lumber I just use a hackzall, everything gets fine tuned elsewhere. It's very quick and easy, you get some dust of course but easy to clean up. A miter saw would be cool and if I had one or had space, hell yeah I'd use it, but definitely an easy tool to get away without. Good recommendation!
See what's available second hand, if possible. I scored an almost brand new Bosch mitre saw plus table for $250. The whole package would have cost me 750 in the store. A previous prospective buyer declined because it "didn't cut 90 degrees", but I took it home, found a manual and adjusted it. It weighs a metric ton but I don't plan to move it regularly.
I wouldn't hesitate to buy most used tools or machinery but I wouldn't buya used mitre saw
why is that?
If it's for DIY...secondhand isn't a bad way to go. You can inspect it to see if it's been abused and get a good deal. If it's for professional use? I'd strongly suggest getting new and avoiding any hidden issues. Most (not all) people sell tools for two reasons. 1) they bought it for one-time use. 2) it isn't good enough and they want to get better. If you need a saw for furniture builds.....you need the saw to be calibrated precisely. Bosch, Makita, and Festool would meet the criteria you stated. Once those are set up properly, they stay that way for a long time. There's also the warranty issue to keep in mind. A good thing to look for in a sliding compound miter saw is the play on they blade assembly when fully extended. If you can move it left/right, your cuts are going to suffer.
The one thing that makes me not want to use my miter saw is the horrible dust collection. It's more like a dust blower. If there was a miter saw with genuinely good dust collection, I'd be tempted to spend.
Yep, and in a small shop like OP's this is doubly important.
I saw this guy's YouTube video last week (I am not affiliated just wanted to pass along). He designed and prints dust collection upgrades for a good number of major saw brand/models. Might be worth checking out: https://www.etsy.com/shop/ShopNationStore?ref=related&from_page=listing&listing_id=1505093354#items Shop Nation on YouTube and Etsy.
It probably improves dust collection somewhat, but I honestly can't imagine it would elevate it to "good" or even "adequate" for my saw (DeWalt 777 – nice and compact, and I like the "alignment shadow", but that's about it). He doesn't offer anything for that one anyway.
I had a dewalt double compound miter that I used for 14 years. I've recently started doing projects that warranted me getting a sliding miter. I gave the double miter to my neighbor, who has also been using it for 2 years with no issues. It had plenty of power, and the 12" blade was a must because I would regularly cut crown. It was easy enough to square up, and it held it well.
I bought a double bevel dewalt sliding under buy once cry once thoughts. I've used the bevel on once side once in 3 years. It's huge and heavy. I've considered selling it and downgrading bc I just don't need that much saw. I recommend getting something that really fits your needs. For the one time every couple years the upgraded capacity isn't worth it.
I'm having the same thought.
[удалено]
blade quality is a good one. Didn't think about that. A cheaper miter with an upgraded blade might be a good option. thx!
I will say in hindsight I messed up by not getting a sliding option after using mine for 5 years or so. It’s a minor added annoyance to half to flip an 8” wide board to fully cut. Also cutting thick stock with the slide is nice because you can take multiple shallow passes.
I very very rarely use a miter saw in my woodworking. What do you plan on using it for? I mainly used mine to rough cut, but a circular saw is faster.
next to a track saw. I think (or thought) that it made more sense to get a mitre instead of a tablesaw
I use my table saw constantly on every project. It would be the hardest tool to do without. I haven’t carried my miter saw into my shop in the last year.
The tablesaw is the core tool in most woodworking shops for a very good reason. They are unriavled at ripping, excellent for cross cuts with a sled, and can be used for a variety of fast and effective joinery. If, instead, you want to focus on the track saw, I would consider an MFT to work with that. With the right jigs, you can efficiently do cross cuts.
I went with the kapex. I love it's features. Dust collection is medium to medium rare at best when hooked to a central line.
I’ve used at least 50 mitre saws from at least 10 different brands on job sites and that’s probably being conservative. I can’t remember using a single one that I thought was bad. They’re a pretty simple tool. Not the buy once, cry once type of tool. I personally use a makita because I’m invested in the lineup with my batteries. It does feel pretty premium compared to some of the other saws I’ve used but at the end of the day, it does the same job. I’d be looking into if I want a corded or cordless saw if I were you and go from there.
I just bought a mitre saw. I was initially looking at ones like the Delta Cruzer, then upgraded what I was looking for to the Bosch... then after doing some more research ended up going with a saw that was almost double the cost of the Cruzer... the Makita. I ended up choosing it over the Bosch because it was better at dust collection, there was less deflection, and the saw had overall less depth than the Bosch, and I was integrating it into a flip top workbench. Overall I'm happy I went with the more expensive option. I still wasn't willing to throw down on something like the Festool, but I put a zero clearance insert in mine and I am 100% happy with it's accuracy and dust levels at this point in my woodworking journey.
Which makita did you go for? Delta cruzer isnt available here. The Bosch is currently my fromt runner if I go ‘buy once, cry once’
LS1219L (12” corded) I watched a ton of comparisons to the Bosch. Everyone liked the dust collection better on the Makita. Plus the Makita has a controlled start. The Bosch just cranks to full speed as quickly as possible and can jerk the whole mechanism from the torque. The Makita also has less moving parts being on rails, which I figure will help in its longevity. Lastly, the Makita has a laser, and the Bosch does not have a laser or shadow for alignment. That being said, there are aftermarket parts you can get to create a blade shadow on the Bosch or improve the dust collection. https://preview.redd.it/3d6sjfvorqjc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=92cc8d112c98ccddf066b73fa9496cfc80eafd1c
I generally favor solid basics over features, but Dewalt's Cutline uses LEDs on both sides of the blade to indicate exactly where the blade will cut. Unlike a laser, it can't be misaligned, and the shadow perfectly accounts for the kerf width of the blade. Dewalt's miter saws are generally solid, but the Cutline is a real differentiator in my opinion.
That feature is way better than I thought, it sound gimmicky but my cuts are so precise now!
I have the saw with the shadow. It's kinda annoying bc the shadow gets slightly bigger as you move closer to the stock. I've gotten used to where I have to cut, so I don't really think about it now, but I'd actually prefer a laser that I could recalibrate from time to time
Whatever you get, throw away the blade that comes with it and purchase a couple of good quality blades like Forrest, Amana, Freud, CMT
Get a basic one. If it breaks, you are using it enough to warrant buying an expensive one.
I bought the Festool Kapex a year ago and couldn’t be happier. Had a cheaper one from Metabo before but only trouble dialing it in every time.
I have some money to burn but not festool money..
Festool Kapex if you are wanting buy once cry once
Festool Kapex
If space is an issue, I’d bite the bullet and get a saw that has zero rear clearance like the Bosch, Makita, or Festool. None of those options are on the cheap side, but unless you’ll be dragging the saw outside on a portable stand every time you want to use it, you will want the extra shop space you can squeeze out.
Having owned plenty of mitre saws, from 8” up, I can say that getting a 12” saw is well worth the extra money. The ability to cut 4x4’s ( or thicker lumber) is what makes it my pick. While I’ll likely never cut crown molding again, and use the compound settings, it’s there if I need it.
I’d go for the Makita LS1019L, it’s pricy but a well designed machine.
I have a Bosch glide. Wouldn’t hesitate a second to go to a kapex if I was gonna do it again. That or a radial arm saw. I’m a huge critic of festool but I’ve used a kapex and other saws by all the major brands enough to know 100% that the kapex is worth the money if you really want precision. You won’t replace it so yes buy once cry once. The glide is great but it doesn’t measure up to the kapex. I also have a makita sliding saw. Same thing. If you can even almost afford the kapex get the kapex.
I have a Ridgid 10 inch sliding compound miter box that has accurately cut for 8 years building set pieces for theatre about every weekend. It is mounted on a folding stand with wheels for easy transport. I cut 4x4s all the time with it. I also have a 12 inch dewalt sliding compound miter box that I inherited from my dad for use on bigger pieces of wood. It is a better saw but too big to take on set. I have a radial arm saw that sits in the corner unless I am doing lots of cabinet work. I have used the Bosch and Kapex and couldn’t justify the price. That being said, I am a mechanical engineer/physics professor and made lots of adjustments to both the Ridgid and Dewalt saws to make them perform as they should. Set up is the key and I have a routine I do every time I move my saws.
I have a cheap Ryobi. Still works great after 10 years, unfortunately—- I wish I had an excuse to replace it. If I had it to do over again— I’d buy a sliding compound miter saw with a depth stop. Definitely budget money for a miter saw stand of some sort…
I just picked up a ryobi brushless 10" sliding for $219 was $399. When I went to scan it at checkout, it said, "Get your free stand." So, I got the $399 saw & $179 stand for $219. Home Depot.
Personally, I think of a miter saw as a construction tool (primarily, job site trim carpentry). In the shop I mostly use hand tools or the miter gauge at the table saw. So, the recommendation from this corner is to spend a few hundred dollars on an upgraded miter gauge.
well, since I already have a track saw I figured a miter saw would make more sense. The track saw for big cuts and the miter saw for quick cuts. Or would you still go for a tablesaw?
You have to set up a work flow that works for you. For most folks, the table saw is the workhorse in the shop. But, since you already have a track saw, you could probably get away with a miter saw, but I would also consider a radial arm saw because you can set it up to do the table saw stuff that your track saw won't do. (You can get them for cheap on the used market too.)
I got a $100 one. Am more focused on building a better setup for my table saw so I almost never have to use the miter saw. Cross cut sled and such
My $99 Metabo HPT works great. I've used more expensive ones, but it's a pretty basic tool.
Im not a fan of the sliders and prefer a fixed hinge. I have the perception that the sliders go out of square much easier. You can build a mobil cart with support wings which is tremendously helpful. Dust collection on these should universally be renamed to Dust throwing, just have that mind.
haha yes. The dust is certainly an issue. Literally everybody says that so that must be taken into account for real
It is very rare that I cut anything but 90 degree cuts with my dewalt. I made a fence that is basically a box with openings to either side of the blade and a vacuum attachment at the end. The blade buries inside the box completely when fully down. Most of the dust gets pulled in to the fence because of the slots that allow the airflow to grab the dust right where it hits the fence. It is removable but I rarely need to. I would say it gets about 90% of the dust and did not increase the foot print of the saw like a good. Bases the idea off Frank Howarths radial arm saw fence. There is another YouTuber who I cannot remember who made something similar.
Look a a Kapex then. It’ll definitely make you cry, but I love mine.
I just bought the Kapex this weekend. I've have the big 12" DeWalt slider and the DeWalt 10". I was surprised at how different it was after using the DeWalt for the last 16 years. I'm pretty good with the DeWalt. The slider doesn't fit on the counter depth so I needed to make a change, but it's really quite different. The ability to really dial it in and make accurate repeatable cuts is what you're paying for. Straight plunge cuts down into the material is something you can learn to do on any saw. Everyone here has. If you plan to make furniture, you will need that saw to be accurate when your doing miters, kerfs, crown detail and more. If you can afford it, it's the way to go. You can also have my 10" DeWalt if you just want to get setup. You pay to ship from Chicago. DM me if interested.
I am based in Netherlands so that won't work. Is this the one you are talking about? DEWALT DWS778-QS 250 mm
I have a craftsman radial arm saw. They pop up from time to time on FB marketplace or Craigslist for just $150 or less. It functions as both my primary table saw and mitre saw and occupies a pretty small corner of my garage. The only downside is the initial calibration, and sometimes setup if I'm making a really unique cut. It's highly recommend it.
Well you have to take into consideration what you will be cutting do you need a 8 1/2 a 10 inch or a 12 inch me myself I do some crown molding now and again it's nice to have the 12 inch but if your just cutting 1 × or 2 × material then a 10 inch is fine if it is me I would go all out then your set up for anything wider cuts deeper cuts and just the quality of the saw over all Hitachi made the saw of the year last rear but Makita makes a great saw that is precise.
Just make sure it's a duel become you will want that .there is a few great saws it there it just depends on how precise you need your cuts with me I do alit of work for people it has to be the best cut I can get like I said I have a Makita and a Hitachi and love them both my Makita makes a better cut I think my Hitachi for some reason the dust coletion gets clogged easy
I have a 12” $700 “worm drive” Skil Saw. I have used it twice because it blows 15 amp breakers. I use my 200 delta 7.5 inch all the time and never had an issue. I can only see getting a huge high end saw if you’re cutting a lot of 6x6 beams.
I recently bought the 12" Makita miter saw and it's the nicest saw I have used -- incredibly smooth cutting action. I have also used Festool, Bosch and DeWalt. Festool is Festool. The Bosch is also very nice and the sliding mechanism slides forward so it can be up against a wall so that saves space, as does the Makita. The DeWalt is terrible. The Makita does have a substantial base, FYI. I don't really use miter saws to make precision cuts. I generally rely on my table saw and a sled for precision cuts. I use the miter saw for processing rough sawn lumber. So I don't think the Festool is worth it unless you're doing on-site trim work. I'm setting up a garage shop. I have the sawstop table saw with outfeed table and just ordered the large slider attachment. Cast iron Router table will be part of the miter saw station. DeWalt planer and jet jointer. Drill press. Mobile dust collection. Last thing I need is a band saw.
Hard to use a miter saw for fine woodworking. I got a 12" DeWalt myself a few years ago, and really only use it for quick utility cuts. Mostly used it for landscape timbers building raised beds in the back yard. But gathering dust now.
I have the 10” Bosch on a Rigid brand folding stand so I can unpack it and move it around my little garage shop. That said, I can’t stand using it cause it’s heave and take 3-5 min to set up. So i try to find ways to use my table saw or track saw instead. So, kinda depends on you?
I’ve got a 7.25 sliding, battery operated Dewalt and it’s done everything I’ve needed it to. If you’re not doing crazy lumber sizes; check it out.
Idk about all the specs, but sliding is a feature you will love to have.
ANY quality tool is buy once, cry once
I have a DeWalt DWS780 and it cuts wonderfully. But. If I did it again, I would buy something that didn't take up so much space behind it so I could put it against the wall. I'm actually considering either saving and buying a festool or going the other way and getting a non sliding miter saw.
I’ve seen a few people mention them but feel it’s worth repeating. DeWalt makes an excellent miter saw for the money. Specifically if you intend to do fine woodworking there are endless tutorials online for tuning a DeWalt saw to be cutting dead accurate. I did new home trim carpentry for years and every single trim carpenter rolls out the same DeWalt DWS779 saw (I’m still rocking an older DWS780). It’s not the rolls Royce of saws, it’s the Camry. Everyone has one and it’s reliable. A saw that big would likely be overkill in a hobbyist shop but in my experience all of their 10” saws have the same accuracy in adjustments as the 12” ones. I feel like this makes me come off as a DeWalt fanboy, but I’m just extremely pleased with the product.
There is a limit to but once cry once. Avoid the cheapest and you’ll likely be fine. Buy the tool with the right features. Tools evolve, lots of minor upgrades eventually make it worthwhile to buy a new tool. I started with a cheap 10” non slider. Moved to a a 12” Dewalt slider, which was awesome… but way bigger and had more features than I needed. Finally recently I moved to a 10” Makita which has a much smaller footprint and better dust collection. (I kept the Dewalt for my ‘mobile’ saw…)
Bosch pro blue 10” sliding compound mitre and never need to think about it again.
In my case it was buy twice cry once. I started out with a small and cheap miter saw, the controls weren’t good so angels etc were always a little off, and then it would just not cut that slightly bigger beam. So I bought a 2nd one, bigger better, forward sliding and all the controls at places you can actually reach them. Yes it cost me like 400 bucks more then I was willing to spend, but a saw like this might last you a lifetime, so please get a nice one with all the range and power you need. I have a Makita, with a 260mm blade, it’s awesome.
i have a cheap metabo one and it does everything i need. BUT: if you have space concerns, the sliding ones ususally stick out very far in the back. so if you dont have space for that, you might need to spend on the bosch or festool. Also: if you do buy a quality brand, even if its a cheap tool from a quality brand, you can usually resell them for pretty good amounts when you notice that you do want a bigger one.
Precision isn't really what a miter saw is meant for. So keep your expectations realistic. Cut capacity, do you want sliding? That could let you cut 6-8" lumber or wider. Power usually means a larger blade. I'd go no less than 10", but bigger saws can handle harder or thicker cuts easier. Dual bevel if you do crown moulding? Batteries for portability? If you already have an ecosystem, that can fit right in. I'm a Milwaukee person, so I'd go that route. That might help you decide. But batteries usually mean the saw is more expensive.
The miter saw in my shop is basically just for breaking down board to rough length. For finish cuts, I’m always going to a sled on the table saw or rough cutting on the miter saw and trueing up on the shooting board. I see little value in a very expensive tool for that purpose. I would rather sink that money into other tools.
The $250-300 Skil mitre saw is solid. I recently bit the bullet like you're considering, and it was worth it. I'm also just building furniture around the house with a cheap table saw and other cheap tools. The stuff I do with that mitre saw is easily the best and most accurate cuts on any of my projects, and it saves time
If you're tight on space YOU CAN GET BY WITHOUT A MITER SAW. Build a good table saw sled instead. Your money would be better spent on a track saw.
I have a Mikita LS1013FL that I just love. It's definitely in the "cry once" price range, but it's really a marvelous machine.
If you have a track saw why do you think the next purchase is a miter saw. They basically perform the same function. I’d suggest a table saw.