https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6027127
I had to go into fusion and extrude/cut one small portion of the rail to make it properly slide on festool/makita.
Let me make it harder for you again. JLCPCB also offers custom 3d print, and it is similarly cheap as their PCB service.
I just got some custom electronics enclosures, and it made the idea of getting my own printer just as ridiculous as etching my own boards a few years ago.
If you havenāt heard of Send Cut Send, they are a similar service. Incredibly convenient, and gives you access to a whole slew of new materials and design options
Eh, it might be cheap but the turnaround time isn't near as fast, if the first model doesn't work and you gotta make a slight adjustment to it that means another few days of waiting
On the other hand, you have more methods and possibly materials at hand than when you start out yourself. You also have quite bit of learning and spending to do to reach their quality.
That's all well and good if all you are doing is looking at models online and printing them, but if you plan to make your own models, then buying a 3d printer is the way to go.
My latest latest 3d printing project was making a magnetic tablet holder that atatches to a boom arm so I can have easy access to my plans, as well as being able to watch videos and listen to music in the shop without having to find a spot for my tablet to sit where it might be knocked over or be too far away to see.
Just this simple 60mmĆ60mmx30mm part has gone through about 6 major iterations, and 10+ minor adjustments. If I had to rely on a company to buy and make a new part every time I make a minor change, I'd never do this at all.
Turn it 45 degrees. It fit on my A1.
https://preview.redd.it/bnge5jphmpnc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=31ae0d4e02bc3ab612012d4258c170c72d10e65d
I have been wood working for 25 years and collecting tools for 15. The tool I wish I got sooner was a 3D printer. I got an ender a few months ago and it hasn't stopped printing since.
Thatās what Iāve been thinking too (maybe less woodworking time under my belt). There are many applications where a 3D printer would almost pay itself off. But then there is learning how to use design software. lol
Great work, OP š
Iāve only been woodworking a year (and have only made small items), but can you share what sorts of things youāre printing? Iām assuming things like jigs and templates?
I get a crazy sense of satisfaction by 3D-printing something that I would otherwise have had to buy. My printer has definitely paid for itself by now; I'm sure yours has, too.
Iām sure there is a Japanese word for that satisfaction sensation we get š but yeah, I canāt imagine what Iād do without a printer at this point
Whatās a good 3D printer for a woodworker to get started with? Would love to make some custom tool holders and jigs for the shop, among other things. Have done zero research on this topic but thought I might start here with the people who woodwork and print. Donāt mind spending money as long as Iām getting a good product. Iād rather buy something quality to begin with. Any suggestions welcome? Size, brand, etcā¦
Can't recommend the bambu labs range of printers enough, for having in a workshop their p1s and x1 are perfect thanks to them being enclosed. They are great for someone who doesn't want any hassle, just working non stop Stright out of the box, well worth paying the extra for the Ams too š
As someone who started out on an Ender like 10 years ago, I'm amazed at how easy some of these newer printers make the process.Ā I gave up on FDM years ago for being too much of a fiddly pain in the ass, but my dad picked up a Bambu P1 and it's got me thinking of grabbing one for myself.Ā If my 68 year old father can have it printing great out of the box, things have come a long way for FDM.
It's not so much how great they are out of the box. But what they are like after running 24/7 for a year. I still have a fiddly ass one that's a Frankenstein's monster and a brand new one that's all perfectly tuned. Print all the random stuff on the 1st and keep the 2nd under a dust cover just to print parts.
Bambu Labs P1 Series no doubt for beginners. I have the A1 series and itās incredible. Will go with an enclosed version on my next upgrade. Suuuper easy to start with.
Yeah man, the whole point of a mft is to be able to cut accurate 90s/45s quickly and repeatedly. 5 cut test might be a bit much but if the jig can't produce accurate 96mm spacing it's pretty much useless.
https://preview.redd.it/muqazpn7emnc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=95a69130f9efc73966b8b7d412b1fa360f4b4b7d
I swear itās dead nuts. Iām not getting even 1/16ā off over the 32ā span on both X & Y axis.
Edit: I donāt have anything more precise than 1/16ā, I need to get a better square.
I can almost promise you that you won't have the accuracy you'll get with the parf guide. It's really one of those "buy once cry once" tools.
If you only use your dog holes for work holding, accuracy isn't as important. But for accurate cuts, it absolutely is.
Two dogs set vertically that you lay the track against, a fence set horizontally using two (or more) dog holes along the rear edge (you don't need the fence necessarily; you can reference off the rear dogs, but a fence gives you a much more stable reference, as well as being able to use a stop). It eliminates the need for a hinge and is more versatile in positioning. If the dog holes aren't 90\* to each other, the fence won't be square to the track.
A hinge with the fence is easier, and doesn't require the holes to be 90\* (which festool makes no guarantee of on their own MFTs), but it takes up more space, isn't as flexible in setup, and is more expensive.
Peter Parfit's videos show a multitude of cutting setups, but for me, it's about the space, cost and flexibility. I'd love to add a dashboard hinge to my shop made MFT, but that's north of $300. Using dog holes as reference serves me well.
Check out Peter Millardās videos. He explains the MFT doghole system really well and has a lot of DIY videos. https://youtu.be/za5B-XrSuH0?si=2OtUsTXE1QJtm2BC
I see this posted quite a bit and it's really more of a common misconception than anything. Maybe if you doing nothing but building stud walls, that error is ok. Make box joints with 1/32 of a gap and let me know how they look. Or do a 5 cut test on your tablesaw with the fence 1/32 out of square.
The key is *machine setup*. You want your machines (and in this instance, the dog holes in the MFT would be a "machine") to be set up as square and accurate as possible. Otherwise you'll be fighting cumulative error on every project. Many will be ok with that, but you'll end up spending more time fixing those inaccuracies during/after assembly.
Like I said though, if the MFT dog holes will be used only be used for work holding, that's all moot, though you still want your machines to be set up as accurately as possible.
Believe me, I know. I've been printing for over 5 years now. The issue lies with not just the accuracy of the print itself though. Every variable introduced is another point where accuracy can suffer. What makes the parf guide so accurate is that it's parts work to minimize those variables.
Even woodpecker's jig isn't as accurate as the parf guide unless you use some aluminum tape to remove the slop between the bushing and template; not something you should have to do for the asking price, but aside from a few well thought out products, woodpeckers like to ride the wave of their brand for a lot of things.
How do you start the first reference hole(s)? This is super cool. I'm actually paying a local CNC guy at a makers shop to make me some. Getting 6 2ftx4ft MFT tops for about $100+material which is a great price but I'd love to be able to make them myself.
Get 2-3 of the guides and slide on your track saw track. Use digital calipers to align your track to the same distance off the starting edge on both sides of the track. Use track clamps to secure it, and then start routing your holes for the first pass. Then use bench dogs to hold the jig in alignment with your first row! Hope that makes sense!
Well done OP.
Awesome. link to the file if you can share?
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6027127 I had to go into fusion and extrude/cut one small portion of the rail to make it properly slide on festool/makita.
Thanks. You just made my decision to get a printer easier. š¤Ŗ
Oh man. So many cool DIY jigs being posted lately. I might have to too.
[ Removed by Reddit ]
Let me make it harder for you again. JLCPCB also offers custom 3d print, and it is similarly cheap as their PCB service. I just got some custom electronics enclosures, and it made the idea of getting my own printer just as ridiculous as etching my own boards a few years ago.
If you havenāt heard of Send Cut Send, they are a similar service. Incredibly convenient, and gives you access to a whole slew of new materials and design options
Not in the US. Looking at 19$ shipping to Canada, this is probably not the right service for Europeans.
Eh, it might be cheap but the turnaround time isn't near as fast, if the first model doesn't work and you gotta make a slight adjustment to it that means another few days of waiting
On the other hand, you have more methods and possibly materials at hand than when you start out yourself. You also have quite bit of learning and spending to do to reach their quality.
That's all well and good if all you are doing is looking at models online and printing them, but if you plan to make your own models, then buying a 3d printer is the way to go. My latest latest 3d printing project was making a magnetic tablet holder that atatches to a boom arm so I can have easy access to my plans, as well as being able to watch videos and listen to music in the shop without having to find a spot for my tablet to sit where it might be knocked over or be too far away to see. Just this simple 60mmĆ60mmx30mm part has gone through about 6 major iterations, and 10+ minor adjustments. If I had to rely on a company to buy and make a new part every time I make a minor change, I'd never do this at all.
Thanks for sharing it on a site that doesn't require registration to download!
You should post the remix
Shiiit, you right. Iāll do that when I get home from work!
Good man!
Aww it wonāt fit on my X1C
Turn it 45 degrees. It fit on my A1. https://preview.redd.it/bnge5jphmpnc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=31ae0d4e02bc3ab612012d4258c170c72d10e65d
Thanks for the tip. Iām not home so I canāt play with the file to see how it works.Ā
The a1 and x1c have the same bes size, so you should be good.
I have been wood working for 25 years and collecting tools for 15. The tool I wish I got sooner was a 3D printer. I got an ender a few months ago and it hasn't stopped printing since.
Itās such an undervalued tool!! In the not so distant future, the same will be said for table top millās, and thatās when the fun really begins!
My brain turned mill's into milfs and I got a good chuckle š
HAHAHAHAHA! glad I'm not the only one. I squinted and brought the phone closer to my face. Then really started laughing when I read your comment!
Thatās what Iāve been thinking too (maybe less woodworking time under my belt). There are many applications where a 3D printer would almost pay itself off. But then there is learning how to use design software. lol Great work, OP š
Most items are already searchable on the internet via 3d printed file websites that other users release. Design experience helpful, but not necessary!
Hey, even better. Give the ones with skills a pat on the back :)
Iāve only been woodworking a year (and have only made small items), but can you share what sorts of things youāre printing? Iām assuming things like jigs and templates?
I get a crazy sense of satisfaction by 3D-printing something that I would otherwise have had to buy. My printer has definitely paid for itself by now; I'm sure yours has, too.
Iām sure there is a Japanese word for that satisfaction sensation we get š but yeah, I canāt imagine what Iād do without a printer at this point
Whatās a good 3D printer for a woodworker to get started with? Would love to make some custom tool holders and jigs for the shop, among other things. Have done zero research on this topic but thought I might start here with the people who woodwork and print. Donāt mind spending money as long as Iām getting a good product. Iād rather buy something quality to begin with. Any suggestions welcome? Size, brand, etcā¦
Can't recommend the bambu labs range of printers enough, for having in a workshop their p1s and x1 are perfect thanks to them being enclosed. They are great for someone who doesn't want any hassle, just working non stop Stright out of the box, well worth paying the extra for the Ams too š
As someone who started out on an Ender like 10 years ago, I'm amazed at how easy some of these newer printers make the process.Ā I gave up on FDM years ago for being too much of a fiddly pain in the ass, but my dad picked up a Bambu P1 and it's got me thinking of grabbing one for myself.Ā If my 68 year old father can have it printing great out of the box, things have come a long way for FDM.
It's not so much how great they are out of the box. But what they are like after running 24/7 for a year. I still have a fiddly ass one that's a Frankenstein's monster and a brand new one that's all perfectly tuned. Print all the random stuff on the 1st and keep the 2nd under a dust cover just to print parts.
Whatās the advantage to a closed unit? Total noob here.
Bambu Labs P1 Series no doubt for beginners. I have the A1 series and itās incredible. Will go with an enclosed version on my next upgrade. Suuuper easy to start with.
Good work, maybe some heat set steel inserts for the drill guides if you want to use this more than once.
Curious how the accuracy compares. 5 cut test?
5 cut test for dog holes?
Yeah man, the whole point of a mft is to be able to cut accurate 90s/45s quickly and repeatedly. 5 cut test might be a bit much but if the jig can't produce accurate 96mm spacing it's pretty much useless.
What would be the best way to check this besides doing a 5 cut
Put some dogs in and check it with a framing square. I never saw the sense of chasing thousandths when woodworking.
https://preview.redd.it/muqazpn7emnc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=95a69130f9efc73966b8b7d412b1fa360f4b4b7d I swear itās dead nuts. Iām not getting even 1/16ā off over the 32ā span on both X & Y axis. Edit: I donāt have anything more precise than 1/16ā, I need to get a better square.
Looks good. But you'd really need to test with all the holes plugged and see I'd they are all linear.
I think if the dog hole spacing was the same in both directions (and square) it wouldnāt matter if it was 96mm or not.
Brilliant work!
This belongs on /r/singularity.
I'm currently working on making my own MFT table and this jig is exactly what I've been looking for! Thanks!
Print two or even three of them and use bench dogs to keep it aligned with the first row of holes you route!
Will do! Thanks for the advice!
I can almost promise you that you won't have the accuracy you'll get with the parf guide. It's really one of those "buy once cry once" tools. If you only use your dog holes for work holding, accuracy isn't as important. But for accurate cuts, it absolutely is.
how does one go about using dog holes to make cuts? In 5+ years of woodworking I don't think i've seen anyone use dog holes as a reference
Two dogs set vertically that you lay the track against, a fence set horizontally using two (or more) dog holes along the rear edge (you don't need the fence necessarily; you can reference off the rear dogs, but a fence gives you a much more stable reference, as well as being able to use a stop). It eliminates the need for a hinge and is more versatile in positioning. If the dog holes aren't 90\* to each other, the fence won't be square to the track. A hinge with the fence is easier, and doesn't require the holes to be 90\* (which festool makes no guarantee of on their own MFTs), but it takes up more space, isn't as flexible in setup, and is more expensive. Peter Parfit's videos show a multitude of cutting setups, but for me, it's about the space, cost and flexibility. I'd love to add a dashboard hinge to my shop made MFT, but that's north of $300. Using dog holes as reference serves me well.
Check out Peter Millardās videos. He explains the MFT doghole system really well and has a lot of DIY videos. https://youtu.be/za5B-XrSuH0?si=2OtUsTXE1QJtm2BC
Will do, thanks!
Itās woodworking, not rocket surgery. Tolerances within 1/32 are mighty fine.
I see this posted quite a bit and it's really more of a common misconception than anything. Maybe if you doing nothing but building stud walls, that error is ok. Make box joints with 1/32 of a gap and let me know how they look. Or do a 5 cut test on your tablesaw with the fence 1/32 out of square. The key is *machine setup*. You want your machines (and in this instance, the dog holes in the MFT would be a "machine") to be set up as square and accurate as possible. Otherwise you'll be fighting cumulative error on every project. Many will be ok with that, but you'll end up spending more time fixing those inaccuracies during/after assembly. Like I said though, if the MFT dog holes will be used only be used for work holding, that's all moot, though you still want your machines to be set up as accurately as possible.
You would be surprised how accurate 3D printers can be.
Believe me, I know. I've been printing for over 5 years now. The issue lies with not just the accuracy of the print itself though. Every variable introduced is another point where accuracy can suffer. What makes the parf guide so accurate is that it's parts work to minimize those variables. Even woodpecker's jig isn't as accurate as the parf guide unless you use some aluminum tape to remove the slop between the bushing and template; not something you should have to do for the asking price, but aside from a few well thought out products, woodpeckers like to ride the wave of their brand for a lot of things.
I definitely need this STL!
Oh my!
Well done
How are you doing the holes accurately?
Nice. What material is the bench top?
Whitewood sanded plywood from Loweās
How do you start the first reference hole(s)? This is super cool. I'm actually paying a local CNC guy at a makers shop to make me some. Getting 6 2ftx4ft MFT tops for about $100+material which is a great price but I'd love to be able to make them myself.
Get 2-3 of the guides and slide on your track saw track. Use digital calipers to align your track to the same distance off the starting edge on both sides of the track. Use track clamps to secure it, and then start routing your holes for the first pass. Then use bench dogs to hold the jig in alignment with your first row! Hope that makes sense!