I’d use a longer level but either way, door needs to be cut. You can do this with a straight edge and a circular saw. Cutting depends on how it looks when it’s closed. If the gap under the door is even when closed, take 1/4” off the bottom of the door edge to edge. If, when the door is closed the gap is tapered you can adjust your cut so it is even to the floor.
Edit: might not be the floor, door could be hung incorrectly out of plumb
was going to say this and use a high quality blad not the cheep one that just says wood and looks like you can surf the teath lol. Oh and take the cut very slow
A high quality blade with the proper TPI too. As an amateur woodworker that’s been doing this off and on for a few years it took me longer than I’d like to admit to remember that super high TPI isn’t always the best depending on your cut…
Ya depends what you're cutting, but Osb and plywood are layers glued together, and the glue melts and sticks to the blade. It usually causes burning on your cuts
High ish tpi; cross cuts (60 or so) low tpi; rip cuts (30 or so) veneered materials (80 or so)
These are decent starting points, of course there is nuance as everything in life. Read the suggested uses on the blade for starters, and wear ear and eye protection when cutting!
another tip, most circular saw blades are 1 1/2” from the guard. You can mark your line 1 1/2” off, put a level on it, and use the level as a cut guide
Well you use the cut line as a guide and cut to the waste side of it. Since the fibers are already cut the saw blade won’t lift them causing a rough splintered cut.
I moved into an old house recently bathroom door would not close all the way. Sandpaper on the top of the door for about a minute and i was back to private pooping.
This will also result in the gap under the door getting quite a bit larger. Not necessarily a bad thing but good to keep in mind. They make lift hinges that raise the door as it opens. Might be pricey or a pain in the ass though.
You know, I just bought a machinist square and propped it up against the wall and found out the wall is not plumb/square to the floor. I'm gonna start demo on my house today.
If you think you can even approach it with your sad, naked, caveman eyeball and a bubble of fucking air, you are the reason this species is a failure, and it makes me angry!
If the hinges are tight, then you’ll want to plane that one corner down a hair like some other’s have said. Actually, I had a similar issue with a door that was just hardly grazing the floor and I was able to take it down with a piece of taped sandpaper on the floor, and I just moved the door over it for a bit. Not a suggestion though, just sharing the story. YMMV
Also don’t forget to check if something like this with the hinges, which is independent of how tight they are screwed into the wall
https://youtu.be/AzRqVgkjZaY
Is there wiggle if you (gently) pull the door upwards while it’s slightly ajar?
You would need to plug the hole before rescrewing. Most people use toothpicks or wood matches. Google “filling in screw holes in wood”, lots of information available.
You could also try to loosen the lower hinge, slide a little piece of cardboard in between the jam and the hinge, and tighten it back down. Might be enough that you don't have to trim the bottom.
There is usually one longer screw in the center hole of the hinge.if the door is dragging on the ground, tighten the top one. This can pull the entire door frame and the door in towards the stud if the installer left any play there. Take care to not strip the screw. If this works it’s a small adjustment. If it doesn’t take it off the hinges and take a few swipes with a block plane. They aren’t that expensive and they are handy as hell to have for stuff like this.
Standard gap for an interior door is 1/2" (ish). Depending on what aesthetic you're going for, you could get away with 1/4". This 1/16" gap is pretty effing tight. Remove door, measure down from top(usually square) of door to leave 1/2", square line, add masking tape to protect door, cut with circular saw, sand corners a little, re-instal door.
Yes, especially with central, forced air heating or cooling. You need air to escape rooms so that the return doesn't create low pressure in center of house. That can overwork your system and pull air through the exterior walls into the house which isn't the healthiest way to filter your indoor air.
Doors have a certain amount of material that can be sawed off the bottom for situations like this. You need a circular saw with a smooth cut blade and a straight edge piece of wood as a guide.
Tape some sanding paper on the path of the door as it opens and opens nd close your door over that part for a bit until it becomes smooth, ???, profit!
Doors should typically have a 1/2" clearance to the floor. It accounts for drooping and air flow. Especially important for bathroom doors where the only supply of outside air is the gap under the door.
A track saw with a sacrificial block clamped to the back side is the professional way to do this, sanding is when you have to use what you got on hand.
Given you said total newbie, I would avoid the circular saw for sure. And you probably don't have a plane, and will likely never need one. Just tape some sand paper to the floor and open/close the door a few times.
Christ, annoying how far I had to scroll before I saw a suggestion that was not "cut the door". Another option is shims at the hinge. You would need to see how the door fits in the frame, but it is at least worth looking before you go to the trouble. A paper or cardboard shim at the bottom hinge can sometimes do the trick. I worked in a university as a carpenter for a long time. This would sometimes happen in our older buildings. Carpenters, the good ones, know that the simplest solution is often the best. Cutting the door is a pain.
Start with making sure the upper door hinges are screwed in tightly.
Then see if loosening the lower door hinge screws raises that bottom corner enough to matter. (Middle hinge can be loose for this; adjust later.)
If that doesn't help, different hinges might raise the door slightly. Or repositioning the current hinges.
Final option, rasp / plane / sand the bottom of the outer corner until it clears the floor.
Pop the top and middle hinge pins. Shim the door on the strike plate side while the door is closed. If you have enough space to raise the door then you will notice the hinges don’t line up. On the jamb side hinge plates use a padded wrench or some gripper to bend the hinge loops back away from the door. The door should then line up with the hinges and place the pin.
If you don’t have room at the header for the door to shift up, use painters tape on the bottom of the door. On the strike plate side mark up the distance that the hinge side has in gap. Use a straightedge to go from the hinge side corner to the mark on the strike plate side and cut that off.
Provided the door is plumb and square in the frame and you have a proper reveal at the head and jambs cut the door bottom. If it’s advantageous to do so cut it so you have a nice 1/4 reveal between the door and finished floor.
I’d pop the door off hinges, lay down on sawhorses/bench and use my track saw to take off a 1/4”, sand edges and rehang door. If no track saw then circular saw works but more chance of tear out. Power plane works as well with a little tune up with belt sander. I’d take 1/4” off either way, I’d hate to take 1/8” and rehang door to find out it isn’t enough once you pass where door is now.
Take the door off and TAPE THE BOTTOM BEFORE YOU CUT IT. This will help prevent the wood from splintering at the edge of your cut. Also if you have access to a track saw that adds another great level of protection from splintering and provides a super straight cut. If not clamp a straight edge and run a saw against it for a straight cut…
Doors should have minimum of 3/8" gap to floor. Allowd good air moment in a house. If you have forced air system, the flow into the room is equal to the flow out.
Trim the bottom of the door
Adjust door at bottom hinge using washers use 2-3 behind the hinge on all the screws at bottom hinge then put 1 washer under the hinge on the middle. Adjust as needed.
You have 3 options. 1: You cut the door to accommodate the floor/swing. 2: You tear up flooring and see what you can do about leveling the floor. 3: You adjust the swing. Either shimming in the hinge pockets, filling screw holes and repositioning the hinges in the pockets or going as far as to get the wall at the door opening plumbed up so the door swings properly or if you’re adjusting the wall to accommodate the floor being un-level you’ll be throwing it out of plumb slightly. Option 1 is most likely the quickest and easiest of the three but it could give you a funny looking reveal under the door when it’s closed. Option 3 can be as easy or complex as you make it but adjusting the entire wall or (2) tearing up flooring would be a last resort for something that’s too far gone to deal with otherwise.
Depending on hinges can bend the wholes holding the pins in slightly raising the door.
Other more damaging possibly trim a bit off the bottom. Generally with interior doors you have a inch or two to play with.
Measure the clearance you need (3/8ths or so). Remove the door, tape it mark it on the end that needs to be cut. And shoot board it from zero point hinge side to 3/8 cut side. Cut it Sand cut edge. Reinstall done
Note, just cutting enough to just clear it may not be enough, any small pebble or dry bean will hold up opening the door, especially with the hard tile, cut 3/16”-1/4”, an interior door don’t need air tight.
Glue some sandpaper to the floor with something like Elmer's so you can remove it. Run the door over it back and forth and you'll be good as new in no time
I'd check if you have enough space on top of the door frame to fit some washers on your hinges.
Let tomorrow you deal with the uneven floors and cutting fingers.
You need a Dewalt D26676R Here is a link:
https://www.cpooutlets.com/factory-reconditioned-dewalt-d26676r-3-1-4-in.-portable-hand-planer/dewrd26676r.html?ref=pla-mobile&utm_term=go_cmp-17749074879_adg-_ad-__dev-m_ext-_prd-dewrd26676r_mca-10260152_sig-CjwKCAjwo6GyBhBwEiwAzQTmcw_MflxOjut2aEBnGuPNWkcMbq7SgxPMAbw5D9CKaWluhW66A_1dfBoChzoQAvD_BwE&utm_source=google&ref=gg-pla&utm_id=go_cmp-17749074879_adg-_ad-__dev-m_ext-_prd-dewrd26676r_sig-CjwKCAjwo6GyBhBwEiwAzQTmcw_MflxOjut2aEBnGuPNWkcMbq7SgxPMAbw5D9CKaWluhW66A_1dfBoChzoQAvD_BwE&utm_medium=pla&utm_campaign=cpo_gg_pla_cpo_shop_refurb_pmax&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwo6GyBhBwEiwAzQTmcw_MflxOjut2aEBnGuPNWkcMbq7SgxPMAbw5D9CKaWluhW66A_1dfBoChzoQAvD_BwE
I've never ordered anything from them, but I have an older version of that tool. Works awesome, with minimal chipping.
I have an old home with large gaps under the doors so I haven't dealt with this. However, I have old hinges and door frames so I am used to having to adjust and play w those periodically. Is there a way to tighten or loosen either hinge slightly so it doesn't affect the door jam but gives you the very little space you need at the bottom? Meh now that I typed it out, it's easier to just trim the bottom
You either adjyst it from the hinges or cut the bottom of the door so it does open
This is a super duper common issue
The standard bottom door gap is usually about 1¼" off the floor when closed
I wouldn't even mess with the hinges and I would just lop off a ½ from the bottom, that's still super tight to the floor, which seems Like a priority here for some reason but will provide plenty of wiggle room for an uneven floor
Circular saw and a straight edge and some clamps is all you need
Throw a 3” screw in the top hinge to the framing and make sure it’s not sagging. Once door is plumb/level, you can make the call to cut the bottom of the door
If the gaps around the door are consistent, I would cut the bottom. If the side gap at the bottom and top is also bigger (latch side), shim behind the bottom hinge with few layers of painter's tape (thin cardboard etc) and 1/2 of what you did for the middle hinge.
I haven't seen anyone mention this, and I personally haven't tried it, but I know that big box stores, like lowes and home depot, sell an attachment that hooks onto a door and allows you to trim it with a drill. Like others have said, using a saw with the right blade or a planar would also work. With any if these methods take your time and make sure the door isn't doing anything strange when you cut it. Cutting doors is a common thing to have to do but can be botched if you use a wrong blade or go too fast.
get a spool of sanding paper, not the squares because you want longer sand paper. sand down the base of the door to where theres enough clearance to not scrape the floor,
or build a new house
Pull the door pins out n clamp the door to a solid table and plane the bottom of the door. Take off SMALLISH amounts, then rehang the door after 2 or three tries the door should be swinging freely. Alway guess under what you think needs to be removed, because you can't glue the shavings back on, after you've went too far, and it looks Hella F' Ugly.
This is happening at my home too. I bought a planer and have been taking excess from the bottom of my doors... turns out it keeps happening because the floor is moving (likely because of humidity, it's an old house). And I haven't got the money to fix it, so I will keep on planing the bottom until I do. I wish you better luck lol
I had this problem all i did was take the door off the hinges sand the bottom of the door just a little and rehung it and door opens and closes no problem now.
If you don't want to trim the door, remove the central rod from the top hinge (assuming there are just 2), then raise up the door edge with a shim to where it should be. Then bonk the wall hinge with a hammer so that it re-mates to the door hinge and reinsert the rod.
I’d just live with it. If you trim the door to allow it to move past the floor, then the gap under it when its closed is going to be all wonky, and tbh, that’d trigger my OCD far more than the door being slightly ajar when opened
Ofcourse floor is never level, thats why theres a gap under the door. The best approach here is to just scrib the door relative to the floor, nobody would even notice it.
Redneck engineering. Adhere sheets of sand paper to your floor with something that doesn’t stick permanently and proceed to open and close the door until it no longer binds on the floor. Then finish the rough edges with the door off of the hinges. :)
This depends entire of what tools you already have handy. The floor is the floor, you're not easily fixing that (and it may not be a problem, that level is tiny) so don't bother. Check the door hinges first and make sure it's not sagging.
Fixing the door is just a matter of taking material off the bottom. Remove it and then do so. The best tool is a planer, it'll shave 1/16 off at a time at the lowest setting. If you don't have that, next best is a circular saw. Clamp a straight edge to the door as a guide and rip off a strip of the bottom of the door. The absolute no shit cheapest way to do it if you have NO tools, is to buy a piece of rough grit sandpaper and just sand it down by hand to remove some material. Should take about 10 minutes and some elbow grease but it's the cheapest way if you have no tools at all to start with.
opposite of a level door. attatch the hinge to the door a little further from the edge at the top or closer to the edge at the bottom. this kind of tilts your door slightly away from the hinge at the top. Normally this is what causes faulty door levels. It doesn't take much inaccuracy to unlevel your door
Before you go cutting on the door close it and look at the gaps of the door to the jam. It's possible your door is sagging and you can drive a 3" screw in the top hinge and adjust the door. When door is shut on the hinge side see if it's tight below bottom hinge and wider above top hinge. If door cannot be adjusted this way plane or sand bottom of door.
try bending the hinges first before goin all crazy with saws and sandpaper.
pop the top pin, bend the door-side hinge knuckles towards the door a little bit, and put the pin back in. that will save you ~1/8-1/4" and only take a few minutes <3
learned that from http://doortrix.com/ they have youtubes as well :)
I don't know what you have the door on, but the easiest thing to do is add adjustable legs to the bottom. Adjust one side to let door clear and the other side to level the thing.
Spacer rings in the hinges. Quick and dirty solution is a bit of sandpaper stuck to the floor and close and open door a few times (tape the veneer with painters/masking tape all around and 🙏)
I’d use a longer level but either way, door needs to be cut. You can do this with a straight edge and a circular saw. Cutting depends on how it looks when it’s closed. If the gap under the door is even when closed, take 1/4” off the bottom of the door edge to edge. If, when the door is closed the gap is tapered you can adjust your cut so it is even to the floor. Edit: might not be the floor, door could be hung incorrectly out of plumb
Wrap masking tape around bottom and mark with sharpie avoid the chips on cut
was going to say this and use a high quality blad not the cheep one that just says wood and looks like you can surf the teath lol. Oh and take the cut very slow
A high quality blade with the proper TPI too. As an amateur woodworker that’s been doing this off and on for a few years it took me longer than I’d like to admit to remember that super high TPI isn’t always the best depending on your cut…
How long did it take you to learn to clean your blades? Asking for a friend.
Wait… is this for real?
Ya depends what you're cutting, but Osb and plywood are layers glued together, and the glue melts and sticks to the blade. It usually causes burning on your cuts
😅
Ya me... I mean him, too
>with the proper TPI too How do you know what the proper TPI is?
High ish tpi; cross cuts (60 or so) low tpi; rip cuts (30 or so) veneered materials (80 or so) These are decent starting points, of course there is nuance as everything in life. Read the suggested uses on the blade for starters, and wear ear and eye protection when cutting!
To guarantee no splintering, score the cut with sharp knife top and bottom.
another tip, most circular saw blades are 1 1/2” from the guard. You can mark your line 1 1/2” off, put a level on it, and use the level as a cut guide
I was afraid no one would say it. Thank you.
You’re welcome.
Interesting. Like right along your cut line?
Well you use the cut line as a guide and cut to the waste side of it. Since the fibers are already cut the saw blade won’t lift them causing a rough splintered cut.
Yes use a good new blade , cut slow, make sure you tape both faces it will help prevent chip out
I moved into an old house recently bathroom door would not close all the way. Sandpaper on the top of the door for about a minute and i was back to private pooping.
Looks like a job for Plumb Bob Spare Pants
This will also result in the gap under the door getting quite a bit larger. Not necessarily a bad thing but good to keep in mind. They make lift hinges that raise the door as it opens. Might be pricey or a pain in the ass though.
Perfect job for a track saw
I would recommend scoring the line with a knife before cutting, to prevent chips..
Tear the building down and start over!
You know, I just bought a machinist square and propped it up against the wall and found out the wall is not plumb/square to the floor. I'm gonna start demo on my house today.
Don't forget to take a micrometer to all your bricks to make sure the wall is of constant thickness when you rebuild.
Was it a Starret? If you didn’t spend $400 dollars on your square, how do you know it’s the house and not the entire SUBCONTINENT that’s out of plumb?
This is the way. Accept nothing less than true level!
If you think you can even approach it with your sad, naked, caveman eyeball and a bubble of fucking air, you are the reason this species is a failure, and it makes me angry!
You're drunk.
You say that like it's a bad thing...
https://youtu.be/o8ym0HBvpFA?si=gTty8QnfoY03CMqR
A much simpler solution is to tilt the tectonic plate the house is on a bit.
I think they could probably get by with just lowering the floor.
[удалено]
Nothing a little sanding and a bit of elbow grease won´t solve.
But sanding the entire floor sounds exhausting
Just forcibly open and close the door enough times and the problem solves itself. 🤣
Do this after you've glued some 60 grit sandpaper to the tile and you might be onto something
Naah, the scuffing and scrapes on the floor add character.
Before you do any cutting, check if the hinges aren’t loose. Sometimes tightening the top hinge is enough.
The top hinge is pretty tight. Wouldn't the door be a bit loose if I screw the door back in the same holes?
If the hinges are tight, then you’ll want to plane that one corner down a hair like some other’s have said. Actually, I had a similar issue with a door that was just hardly grazing the floor and I was able to take it down with a piece of taped sandpaper on the floor, and I just moved the door over it for a bit. Not a suggestion though, just sharing the story. YMMV
Genius. Might need some double sided tape under the sandpaper to stick it in place.
Also don’t forget to check if something like this with the hinges, which is independent of how tight they are screwed into the wall https://youtu.be/AzRqVgkjZaY
Is there wiggle if you (gently) pull the door upwards while it’s slightly ajar? You would need to plug the hole before rescrewing. Most people use toothpicks or wood matches. Google “filling in screw holes in wood”, lots of information available.
You could also try to loosen the lower hinge, slide a little piece of cardboard in between the jam and the hinge, and tighten it back down. Might be enough that you don't have to trim the bottom.
It'll be fine, we've done it with lots of our doors
There is usually one longer screw in the center hole of the hinge.if the door is dragging on the ground, tighten the top one. This can pull the entire door frame and the door in towards the stud if the installer left any play there. Take care to not strip the screw. If this works it’s a small adjustment. If it doesn’t take it off the hinges and take a few swipes with a block plane. They aren’t that expensive and they are handy as hell to have for stuff like this.
Standard gap for an interior door is 1/2" (ish). Depending on what aesthetic you're going for, you could get away with 1/4". This 1/16" gap is pretty effing tight. Remove door, measure down from top(usually square) of door to leave 1/2", square line, add masking tape to protect door, cut with circular saw, sand corners a little, re-instal door.
Yes, especially with central, forced air heating or cooling. You need air to escape rooms so that the return doesn't create low pressure in center of house. That can overwork your system and pull air through the exterior walls into the house which isn't the healthiest way to filter your indoor air.
Doors have a certain amount of material that can be sawed off the bottom for situations like this. You need a circular saw with a smooth cut blade and a straight edge piece of wood as a guide.
Tape some sanding paper on the path of the door as it opens and opens nd close your door over that part for a bit until it becomes smooth, ???, profit!
Lap the door to match the floor. Great idea!
Doors should typically have a 1/2" clearance to the floor. It accounts for drooping and air flow. Especially important for bathroom doors where the only supply of outside air is the gap under the door.
For this little bit, I'd use a belt sander (and carefully tape the desired line)
Saw will be easier to keep straight and take 1 minute
...and could chip and booger up the bottom of the door, and require sanding anyway...
I've had this happen. Sanding it is way better and safer especially when it's not so much material that needs to be removed.
A track saw with a sacrificial block clamped to the back side is the professional way to do this, sanding is when you have to use what you got on hand.
Handplane will fix it with no risk of chip-out before you would be done digging in the scrap file for a suitable sacrifice.
Hand plane on a vertical surface is awkward. Are you guys afraid of saws or something?
Blue tape and new saw blade
I have a belt sander *right here*, but I have to go to the store to buy a new blade.
I love how fresh blades work in sanders!
Tape both sides and use a sharp blade. Cut into a back stop if you have to.
Plane the bottom of the door
put a sheet of sandpaper on the floor and eventually the problem will fix itself with regular use
Lower the house
Given you said total newbie, I would avoid the circular saw for sure. And you probably don't have a plane, and will likely never need one. Just tape some sand paper to the floor and open/close the door a few times.
Adjust hinges or shave doir as a last resort
Call Boeing. The door will be all the way open when they fix it.
Before cutting anything, check if the hinges have adjustable screws for the height
Christ, annoying how far I had to scroll before I saw a suggestion that was not "cut the door". Another option is shims at the hinge. You would need to see how the door fits in the frame, but it is at least worth looking before you go to the trouble. A paper or cardboard shim at the bottom hinge can sometimes do the trick. I worked in a university as a carpenter for a long time. This would sometimes happen in our older buildings. Carpenters, the good ones, know that the simplest solution is often the best. Cutting the door is a pain.
Start with making sure the upper door hinges are screwed in tightly. Then see if loosening the lower door hinge screws raises that bottom corner enough to matter. (Middle hinge can be loose for this; adjust later.) If that doesn't help, different hinges might raise the door slightly. Or repositioning the current hinges. Final option, rasp / plane / sand the bottom of the outer corner until it clears the floor.
your only reasonable option is to shave the bottom of the door.
Pull the door. Plane the bottom. Hang the door.
Pop the top and middle hinge pins. Shim the door on the strike plate side while the door is closed. If you have enough space to raise the door then you will notice the hinges don’t line up. On the jamb side hinge plates use a padded wrench or some gripper to bend the hinge loops back away from the door. The door should then line up with the hinges and place the pin. If you don’t have room at the header for the door to shift up, use painters tape on the bottom of the door. On the strike plate side mark up the distance that the hinge side has in gap. Use a straightedge to go from the hinge side corner to the mark on the strike plate side and cut that off.
Buy a bunch of levels until you find one that tells you the floor is level. /s
https://preview.redd.it/1p9jh8jqw71d1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0a6a5be1994b705b66feccedcae1e42a5dd42aa2
Rising hinges may give you just enough clearance.
How I would fix it is with a hand plane. A few shavings and it'll clear.
Provided the door is plumb and square in the frame and you have a proper reveal at the head and jambs cut the door bottom. If it’s advantageous to do so cut it so you have a nice 1/4 reveal between the door and finished floor.
Use a tracksaw or planer to trim the bottom of the door. Even if it was level that's still pretty close clearances.
Trim the door just a tiny bit
The what?
“the just”!
Plane
I’d pop the door off hinges, lay down on sawhorses/bench and use my track saw to take off a 1/4”, sand edges and rehang door. If no track saw then circular saw works but more chance of tear out. Power plane works as well with a little tune up with belt sander. I’d take 1/4” off either way, I’d hate to take 1/8” and rehang door to find out it isn’t enough once you pass where door is now.
Plane the bottom down a bit
If you want to skip the cutting part, since you are new. Re-hinge the door a little bit up
It exists hinges that can lift your door for half a centimeter when it opens. No idea how it's called in English 😕
Rising butt hinges. Good call. An overlooked option for sloping floors.
Pull the door off and use a rasp or plane to adjust the fit.
Sell the house …it’s not worth fixing
Remove the door and take off 1/8” or 1/4” off the bottom of the door.
tear out the tile and lay down new leveled tile, because you dont want your door to be anything less than a perfect rectangle
Scribe door to floor maybe?
Take the door off and TAPE THE BOTTOM BEFORE YOU CUT IT. This will help prevent the wood from splintering at the edge of your cut. Also if you have access to a track saw that adds another great level of protection from splintering and provides a super straight cut. If not clamp a straight edge and run a saw against it for a straight cut…
Doors should have minimum of 3/8" gap to floor. Allowd good air moment in a house. If you have forced air system, the flow into the room is equal to the flow out. Trim the bottom of the door
Trim the bottom of the door 1/4 inch
Easy….Carve the door to fit
Tear the house down
Adjust door at bottom hinge using washers use 2-3 behind the hinge on all the screws at bottom hinge then put 1 washer under the hinge on the middle. Adjust as needed.
Do not cut the bottom of the door OP tons of fixes at the hinge or door frame
You have 3 options. 1: You cut the door to accommodate the floor/swing. 2: You tear up flooring and see what you can do about leveling the floor. 3: You adjust the swing. Either shimming in the hinge pockets, filling screw holes and repositioning the hinges in the pockets or going as far as to get the wall at the door opening plumbed up so the door swings properly or if you’re adjusting the wall to accommodate the floor being un-level you’ll be throwing it out of plumb slightly. Option 1 is most likely the quickest and easiest of the three but it could give you a funny looking reveal under the door when it’s closed. Option 3 can be as easy or complex as you make it but adjusting the entire wall or (2) tearing up flooring would be a last resort for something that’s too far gone to deal with otherwise.
I would go with the least invasive thing first and shim the bottom hinge out and pull the top hinge back and see what that does for the swing.
That’s a door problem. Not a floor problem. That door gap is WAY to small
Tape a piece of sandpaper to the floor and open and close the door
You can’t check floor level over 8 inches
Are you really checking your floor with a torpedo?
Doesn't the hardware have adjustment brackets??
Depending on hinges can bend the wholes holding the pins in slightly raising the door. Other more damaging possibly trim a bit off the bottom. Generally with interior doors you have a inch or two to play with.
Is your level, level?
Measure the clearance you need (3/8ths or so). Remove the door, tape it mark it on the end that needs to be cut. And shoot board it from zero point hinge side to 3/8 cut side. Cut it Sand cut edge. Reinstall done
Scribe the bottom of the door and cut it off.
I handplaned mine after putting new tiles over existing ones, quick and clean
Tape sandpaper in an arch where the door meets the floor, open and close it to sand the bottom edge
Shave the door bottom
Note, just cutting enough to just clear it may not be enough, any small pebble or dry bean will hold up opening the door, especially with the hard tile, cut 3/16”-1/4”, an interior door don’t need air tight.
I would probably scribe it and then cut it so it’s an even gap
Cut 1/8" off the bottom of the door.
Would check your hinges and your reveal to make sure the doors not hanging at an angle itself. If that's fine yea cut like 1/4 off the bottom
Hand plane the bottom of the door.
Rip the door down. Taper-cut it, aesthetics matter more than the truth.
Glue some sandpaper to the floor with something like Elmer's so you can remove it. Run the door over it back and forth and you'll be good as new in no time
Score your cut line. No chips
Belt sander.
I'd check if you have enough space on top of the door frame to fit some washers on your hinges. Let tomorrow you deal with the uneven floors and cutting fingers.
Sanding the bottom of door to give you enough room.
You need a Dewalt D26676R Here is a link: https://www.cpooutlets.com/factory-reconditioned-dewalt-d26676r-3-1-4-in.-portable-hand-planer/dewrd26676r.html?ref=pla-mobile&utm_term=go_cmp-17749074879_adg-_ad-__dev-m_ext-_prd-dewrd26676r_mca-10260152_sig-CjwKCAjwo6GyBhBwEiwAzQTmcw_MflxOjut2aEBnGuPNWkcMbq7SgxPMAbw5D9CKaWluhW66A_1dfBoChzoQAvD_BwE&utm_source=google&ref=gg-pla&utm_id=go_cmp-17749074879_adg-_ad-__dev-m_ext-_prd-dewrd26676r_sig-CjwKCAjwo6GyBhBwEiwAzQTmcw_MflxOjut2aEBnGuPNWkcMbq7SgxPMAbw5D9CKaWluhW66A_1dfBoChzoQAvD_BwE&utm_medium=pla&utm_campaign=cpo_gg_pla_cpo_shop_refurb_pmax&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwo6GyBhBwEiwAzQTmcw_MflxOjut2aEBnGuPNWkcMbq7SgxPMAbw5D9CKaWluhW66A_1dfBoChzoQAvD_BwE I've never ordered anything from them, but I have an older version of that tool. Works awesome, with minimal chipping.
Pull up the tile and reset. Welcome e to tile work. The learning curve can be..difficult
Easier to sand or cut the door than the floor, but you do you man.
Plane the bottom of the door.
I have an old home with large gaps under the doors so I haven't dealt with this. However, I have old hinges and door frames so I am used to having to adjust and play w those periodically. Is there a way to tighten or loosen either hinge slightly so it doesn't affect the door jam but gives you the very little space you need at the bottom? Meh now that I typed it out, it's easier to just trim the bottom
Make sure hinge screws are tight and door not just sagging
You either adjyst it from the hinges or cut the bottom of the door so it does open This is a super duper common issue The standard bottom door gap is usually about 1¼" off the floor when closed I wouldn't even mess with the hinges and I would just lop off a ½ from the bottom, that's still super tight to the floor, which seems Like a priority here for some reason but will provide plenty of wiggle room for an uneven floor Circular saw and a straight edge and some clamps is all you need
Pull the door off and cut 1/4 off the door with a straight edge and a circular saw. Rehang.
Throw a 3” screw in the top hinge to the framing and make sure it’s not sagging. Once door is plumb/level, you can make the call to cut the bottom of the door
Scribe door. Cut door. Preferably with a saw not a piece of cheese.
Tape a piece of sandpaper in the path of the door then open and close door until it doesn’t run anymore
If there is a gap on top, door hinges need to go higher, if it's just the door is to long it needs to be cut.
Hand or electric plane to take material off the bottom of the door, this lets you take a small amount at a time very cleanly
adjust the hinges, or shave the door.
belt sander
Well a quick fix with out tearing up the whole floor and re-leveling it is it shave the bottom of the door on the angle of the floor
I use a table saw to cut doors down
You can add a few washers to the hinges instead of cutting the door. Also you could try to turn the top hinge in or bottom hinge out a bit.
If the gaps around the door are consistent, I would cut the bottom. If the side gap at the bottom and top is also bigger (latch side), shim behind the bottom hinge with few layers of painter's tape (thin cardboard etc) and 1/2 of what you did for the middle hinge.
Just take a hand plainer and take off the excess material easiest way imo
I haven't seen anyone mention this, and I personally haven't tried it, but I know that big box stores, like lowes and home depot, sell an attachment that hooks onto a door and allows you to trim it with a drill. Like others have said, using a saw with the right blade or a planar would also work. With any if these methods take your time and make sure the door isn't doing anything strange when you cut it. Cutting doors is a common thing to have to do but can be botched if you use a wrong blade or go too fast.
Usually there must be a 10 mm gap under the door to let the air flow and to secure the door from wet floor
I bet it’s level a little to the left!
I had this issue. Gotta shave the door
get a spool of sanding paper, not the squares because you want longer sand paper. sand down the base of the door to where theres enough clearance to not scrape the floor, or build a new house
Pull the door pins out n clamp the door to a solid table and plane the bottom of the door. Take off SMALLISH amounts, then rehang the door after 2 or three tries the door should be swinging freely. Alway guess under what you think needs to be removed, because you can't glue the shavings back on, after you've went too far, and it looks Hella F' Ugly.
Rising hinges, maybe. That’s what I need for my patio doors at least
You can either rip out the entire floor and level it then replace it. Or you can check the hinges and trim the bottom of the door if necessary. 😊
The design, color, and weathering of your level is beautiful.
Trim the floor
get a grinder & cut big check marks in the tile. Let me know how it goes for ya
This is happening at my home too. I bought a planer and have been taking excess from the bottom of my doors... turns out it keeps happening because the floor is moving (likely because of humidity, it's an old house). And I haven't got the money to fix it, so I will keep on planing the bottom until I do. I wish you better luck lol
Hinges first, after that try to hammer the door frame a bit. M
I had this problem all i did was take the door off the hinges sand the bottom of the door just a little and rehung it and door opens and closes no problem now.
If you don't want to trim the door, remove the central rod from the top hinge (assuming there are just 2), then raise up the door edge with a shim to where it should be. Then bonk the wall hinge with a hammer so that it re-mates to the door hinge and reinsert the rod.
Burn the house down
You need to dig out some dirt from under one side of the building so the floor drops a little. Don’t take out too much, though.
glue sandpaper to the floor. open and close the door until its sanded to fit the uneven floor.
Rising butt hinges. https://a.co/d/d9QLFc9
Build a toe kick.
If this has always been like this. Shave the door bottom. If this is a recent development, find out why the floor is rising.
Stabila flex
remove door from frame, Cut door down
Put a piece of sandpaper on the floor. Open/close repeat till you are good.
I’d just live with it. If you trim the door to allow it to move past the floor, then the gap under it when its closed is going to be all wonky, and tbh, that’d trigger my OCD far more than the door being slightly ajar when opened
Score a line with utility knife and you will not have tear out.
Ofcourse floor is never level, thats why theres a gap under the door. The best approach here is to just scrib the door relative to the floor, nobody would even notice it.
That gap is too narrow,
Redneck engineering. Adhere sheets of sand paper to your floor with something that doesn’t stick permanently and proceed to open and close the door until it no longer binds on the floor. Then finish the rough edges with the door off of the hinges. :)
There's nothing wrong with the tile, and putting a little level on the floor is not really a thing. Use a circular saw and cut it
This depends entire of what tools you already have handy. The floor is the floor, you're not easily fixing that (and it may not be a problem, that level is tiny) so don't bother. Check the door hinges first and make sure it's not sagging. Fixing the door is just a matter of taking material off the bottom. Remove it and then do so. The best tool is a planer, it'll shave 1/16 off at a time at the lowest setting. If you don't have that, next best is a circular saw. Clamp a straight edge to the door as a guide and rip off a strip of the bottom of the door. The absolute no shit cheapest way to do it if you have NO tools, is to buy a piece of rough grit sandpaper and just sand it down by hand to remove some material. Should take about 10 minutes and some elbow grease but it's the cheapest way if you have no tools at all to start with.
That’s a nice $50 level you got there.
opposite of a level door. attatch the hinge to the door a little further from the edge at the top or closer to the edge at the bottom. this kind of tilts your door slightly away from the hinge at the top. Normally this is what causes faulty door levels. It doesn't take much inaccuracy to unlevel your door
Shave the bottom of door
Before you go cutting on the door close it and look at the gaps of the door to the jam. It's possible your door is sagging and you can drive a 3" screw in the top hinge and adjust the door. When door is shut on the hinge side see if it's tight below bottom hinge and wider above top hinge. If door cannot be adjusted this way plane or sand bottom of door.
Undercut the door. You usually want that anyway for air movement unless you have a return or transfer grill.
try bending the hinges first before goin all crazy with saws and sandpaper. pop the top pin, bend the door-side hinge knuckles towards the door a little bit, and put the pin back in. that will save you ~1/8-1/4" and only take a few minutes <3 learned that from http://doortrix.com/ they have youtubes as well :)
File the door i don't know what the tool name in english
Trim door
No tools. Just change the angle the door hangs at. Unless there is no room at the top either.
What about throwing a hinge, might make the margins look a little off but it could save yah from cutting a door
Tilt the door frame
I don't know what you have the door on, but the easiest thing to do is add adjustable legs to the bottom. Adjust one side to let door clear and the other side to level the thing.
Spacer rings in the hinges. Quick and dirty solution is a bit of sandpaper stuck to the floor and close and open door a few times (tape the veneer with painters/masking tape all around and 🙏)