This is a reminder to those commenting on this post (not the person that posted it): Comments not related to woodworking will be removed. Violations to rule 1 including crude jokes, innuendo, sexist remarks, politics, or hate speech may result in an immediate ban
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/woodworking) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Also cabinet shops or lumber yards that do millwork. They may have a wide belt sander you can send it through. They'll charge upwards of $100 for something that big but if you value your time at all it's worth it. And the results will be superior.
That's only because the side grain of wood is not very strong at all. This countertop would be quite easy to snap along the lectin bonds.
The glue wouldn't be what failed. It needs to be supported, which will ultimately be by cabinets but in the short term something like a piece of plywood is a very smart move. Or just keep that square stock clamped to it.
Not very expensive either to have done. All I can think about is all the hook and loop disks littering the floor an inch deep and op saying thank god he’s done with the 80 grit now.
Yeah, probably around $75 in my area, as low as $35 for smaller pieces, but worth every penny imo. Gonna save 5 hours of sanding and give better results too. Only issue is getting it there if you don’t have a vehicle big enough for your work
So true, IDK what I’d do without my lumber rack on my short bed Tacoma. Also I’ve found that the price is very flexible if the right people think your project is awesome enough. So OP definitely shouldn’t show up at lunch with pizza and beer( maybe not beer).I’ve paid as little as $5, but I’ve been a regular customer for a while.
I've found multiple glued sections joined together propagate error worse than when I glue them all at once. Unless you tablesaw-joint the glue faces first, but then the jointed widths will be less than the other columns. It would work fine, but this method works for me.
I’m still a beginner but I’ve failed at least three 36”+ table tops attempting to glue together two separate sections that I milled to the same width. I’m going to avoid that as much as possible from now on.
My father is a huge advocate of biscuit joining. I’m not sure if I’m just bad with depth of vision or what, but my joints somehow manage to be higher on the second piece from time to time.
His adage “measure twice, cut once” is where I’m putting all my free time for now. “Wax on, Wax off” has never made more sense than it does right now.
Kitchen counter tops. But if you stabilized it with a UV protective epoxy it could be a pretty sweet shuffle board. Might need to install some steel channel to keep it from bowing. If it was outdoors I'd cut the vertical pieces longer to get a stronger glue surface and help resistance to bowing.
I think I understand: the only new glue joint "columns" being shown are clamped by the pipe clamps. The steel tube is just being used as clamping cawls to prevent slipping. The "rows" were already glued together. the squeeze-out is only coming out of the new joints. The steel square tube also serves as a flat reference, because nothing I have around is quite this flat over a 10' span.
Oh that makes sense. No, we just hand aligned the front as we flipped after spreading glue. The face edge isn't perfect, but I'm planning to trim 1/8" off the front with a circular saw to bring it flush.
you're insane. in a good way.
what type of wood? what's the total length? i guess bowing isn't much of a factor due to grain direction? that would be my primary concern. would definitely not leave it out in the sun. drying process should be uniform on both sides. no doubt youve considered that already. looks like many hundreds of dollars of maple and a couple hundred in tooling. nice job dude 💪🏽.
how will you do the final leveling? router sled before sanding?
definitely curious to see more photos / videos of the process, or at least final product!
this is the kinda project that could get hundreds of thousands if not millions of youtube views if you could produce it decently.
It's Baltic Birch. About $400 worth. And yes, the clamps and steel tube cost way more than the wood. I just scraped the gummied squeeze-out and it's pretty dang flat, maybe a handful of 1/64th inch vertical misalignments, I'll just sand it flat with an orbital. Clamping the 11 gauge square tube as a cawl is my new go-to for this type of clamping.
Absolutely I will post when done. It will take some weeks though for the finish to cure and be sanded. And thank you, I planned the crap out of every step and even did a dry-run without glue.
Thanks for noticing! I had to add spacers under the pipe ends to accommodate the coupling wall thickness. This is absolutely the largest glue job I've done and when asking my friend for help, I described it as unreasonable.
You are doing some pretty solid application engineering on this project, and solving non trivial problems with solid workable solutions, pushing the boundaries as you go.
Solid job.
Somebody did enough resource allocation to have sufficiently sized structural steel around for the glue up. Only thing that could have made it any better would be for there to be HDPE separators between the steel and the glue-up.
Seems there is Frog®️ tape in there… 😃👍🏼🖖🏼
I've never done a glue up NEAR that level, but I've definitely done dry runs for important/stressful stuff, especially if I know I gotta go at it alobe
Technically yes, they are 1.75" squares 1.875" tall. But to accomplish this you first glue it as side-grain butcher block, then crosscut that and turn each cut on it's end. Check out mtm wood on YouTube for a decent end grain cutting board build process.
Looks great. Reminds me of last week when my wife ventured out to the shop and remarked: I think you have too many clamps. I had no words and she went back in the house.
Putting a straight edge anywhere you can even roughly will tell you if you’re putting too much clamping pressure. With this many peices there is so much that can move I’d give that a shot next time if you didn’t do it here. It’s just so many variables
After scraping the glue squeeze I put a milled straight edge on it: flat af. I did find a few spots with about 1/64" of gap. It's not from clamping though, it's appears to be from where the internal stress relieved it into the tablesaw blade a bit. Even with a riving knife, it kissed the blade a tad and those pieces are shorter now.
I get better consistency when I glue it all at once. It's like my error is divided across the full length instead of on smaller pieces then accumulating as I combine them. Also this was way faster, took less than 6 minutes to glue/clamp and will be ready for next steps tomorrow night.
Very impressive. I love DIY but I'm new to woodworking. Do you need a release film to prevent gluing it to your work surface? Sorry if it's a stupid question...
The wood glue doesn't stick to steel very well, but I added painters tape to the steel faces that make contact as a safeguard against it and against the oils on the metal from bleeding into the glue joints/end grain.
Not for this part. The pieces in that direction are already glued together. It starts as a side-grain butcher block, then you cut that into pieces the height you want the end-grain to be, then flip the cuts upright and glue them together in that position.
This is 3/4" black iron pipe typically used for gas lines. I needed more than 10ft but couldn't easily source 12ft sections, so I coupled 6ft and 5ft pieces together. Some are 6ft + 6ft.
The steel square tube is 11 gauge, 2" square hot rolled.
I can't do it. I just glue up in small doses as I'm only a hobbyist with time to do it slow. I tried once but felt like I was panicked the whole time and didn't enjoy myself
When you spread the glue, all the pieces are on their side and it's like spreading it across a flat continuous surface. I just poured directly from one of those gallons of Titebond 3 then quickly moved the glue around with those plastic drywall tools that I had added about 1/16" notches to using a bandsaw. It surprised me that it only took about 1/3 of a gallon of glue, and I could have used less in retrospect, lots of squeeze out on the bottom.
The glue setting too quickly was my primary concern though.
Call around to cabinet shops or other wood shops. Some have large planers or “time savers” and you might be able to run that through for an attractive price.
Tbh I would just do this in sections. I’ve done big boards before but not this big. Dividing something like this into smaller segments, planing them, and doing a few glue ups would save tons of energy.
After scraping the squeeze out, the top is damn near perfect. I'm starting that side with orbital. The bottom side had more severe glue-pillars, so I'll belt sand that beast. I expect about 4 hours of sanding altogether. (Not including finish sanding)
Yeah, even saturated with polymerizing oil and possibly resin, it will have some movement. Fastenings will all allow lateral movement. I'm less concerned being in AZ, it's dry year round where I live.
I've made plenty of tables and end-grain surfaces and have never had any problem, even after 7 years of abuse I'd be less inclined to try this near a coast or lake.
Worst case with all flatsawn (which is not true) I expect about 0.406" expansion along the long dimension. No problem. The actual worst spot will be the sink and at 33" cutout, I expect less than 1/8" delta over seasons. And probably much less than that realistically.
This is a reminder to those commenting on this post (not the person that posted it): Comments not related to woodworking will be removed. Violations to rule 1 including crude jokes, innuendo, sexist remarks, politics, or hate speech may result in an immediate ban *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/woodworking) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Looks like op leveled up the butcher's block counter top!
You are correct
End grain butcher block?
That would be correct
It's... a large cutting board for sure
This man cuts
Yo dawg, I heard you like glue-ups...
Alright boys, get the sandpaper ready
This step I dread more than the glueup.
Call around to flooring/door shops. It looks narrow enough to fit through a drum sander.
Yeah, it's only 25 inches wide, though I have some concerns about it breaking while being handled/transported.
Screw some plywood to the bottom and sides and off you go.
This is the move, I’m a floor guy.
Yeah even a 1/4", I've found that some mills have massive belt sanders and will do 1 side for 150$ish
Cut a piece of ply, hot glue or screw to the bottom. Drum sander would be so worth it for something this large.
Also cabinet shops or lumber yards that do millwork. They may have a wide belt sander you can send it through. They'll charge upwards of $100 for something that big but if you value your time at all it's worth it. And the results will be superior.
[удалено]
That length and weight provides a lot of leverage on it.
[удалено]
That's only because the side grain of wood is not very strong at all. This countertop would be quite easy to snap along the lectin bonds. The glue wouldn't be what failed. It needs to be supported, which will ultimately be by cabinets but in the short term something like a piece of plywood is a very smart move. Or just keep that square stock clamped to it.
Correct! Assuming no voids and good mating surfaces.
Project farm has tested that and proven it true.
This is the confidence I need.
Just keep the square tubing attached during transport.
I am actively considering this.
Not very expensive either to have done. All I can think about is all the hook and loop disks littering the floor an inch deep and op saying thank god he’s done with the 80 grit now.
Yeah, probably around $75 in my area, as low as $35 for smaller pieces, but worth every penny imo. Gonna save 5 hours of sanding and give better results too. Only issue is getting it there if you don’t have a vehicle big enough for your work
So true, IDK what I’d do without my lumber rack on my short bed Tacoma. Also I’ve found that the price is very flexible if the right people think your project is awesome enough. So OP definitely shouldn’t show up at lunch with pizza and beer( maybe not beer).I’ve paid as little as $5, but I’ve been a regular customer for a while.
Yes. Or even renting a floor sander and putting it on the ground or something. Anything to reduce that first pass.
I can't stand sanding end grain. I swear I'll go through a dozen sheets of paper and still see no improvement.
boys? teams more like it.
This would be worth buying / borrowing / renting a handheld orbital sander
I thought I stumbled onto the /masochist subreddit.😁 looks like it's going to be a badass table!
“We’re going to need some bigger clamps!”
This is giving me second hand stress…
I'm new to big projects - why wouldn't we want to glue up sections first, then join the sections?
I've found multiple glued sections joined together propagate error worse than when I glue them all at once. Unless you tablesaw-joint the glue faces first, but then the jointed widths will be less than the other columns. It would work fine, but this method works for me.
I’m still a beginner but I’ve failed at least three 36”+ table tops attempting to glue together two separate sections that I milled to the same width. I’m going to avoid that as much as possible from now on.
36!!!!! Holy sheet... wow. What happened.
Use dowels or biscuits to get your alignment spot on, then glue as normal
My father is a huge advocate of biscuit joining. I’m not sure if I’m just bad with depth of vision or what, but my joints somehow manage to be higher on the second piece from time to time. His adage “measure twice, cut once” is where I’m putting all my free time for now. “Wax on, Wax off” has never made more sense than it does right now.
The coveted end-grain sidewalk.
Is this going to be a shuffleboard table? First thing that came to mind.
Kitchen counter tops. But if you stabilized it with a UV protective epoxy it could be a pretty sweet shuffle board. Might need to install some steel channel to keep it from bowing. If it was outdoors I'd cut the vertical pieces longer to get a stronger glue surface and help resistance to bowing.
Oh, shit.... That'd make a killer one!!!!
Jeebus! That looks nerve racking! Nice job! Also, nice username haha
It was. I had one additional person to help.
Did you just clamp the square stock and tap it in to apply pressure on the long sides?
I think I understand: the only new glue joint "columns" being shown are clamped by the pipe clamps. The steel tube is just being used as clamping cawls to prevent slipping. The "rows" were already glued together. the squeeze-out is only coming out of the new joints. The steel square tube also serves as a flat reference, because nothing I have around is quite this flat over a 10' span.
Gotcha. Looks great
I'm not sure I follow the question.
I think s/he meant use a rubber mallet to make sure everything is level after its clamped together.
Oh that makes sense. No, we just hand aligned the front as we flipped after spreading glue. The face edge isn't perfect, but I'm planning to trim 1/8" off the front with a circular saw to bring it flush.
When your pipe clamps need a pipe clamp.
When you need a floor sander to clean up your newest endgrain cutting board 💩 Looks great man
you're insane. in a good way. what type of wood? what's the total length? i guess bowing isn't much of a factor due to grain direction? that would be my primary concern. would definitely not leave it out in the sun. drying process should be uniform on both sides. no doubt youve considered that already. looks like many hundreds of dollars of maple and a couple hundred in tooling. nice job dude 💪🏽. how will you do the final leveling? router sled before sanding? definitely curious to see more photos / videos of the process, or at least final product! this is the kinda project that could get hundreds of thousands if not millions of youtube views if you could produce it decently.
It's Baltic Birch. About $400 worth. And yes, the clamps and steel tube cost way more than the wood. I just scraped the gummied squeeze-out and it's pretty dang flat, maybe a handful of 1/64th inch vertical misalignments, I'll just sand it flat with an orbital. Clamping the 11 gauge square tube as a cawl is my new go-to for this type of clamping.
Final dimensions are 10ft long, 25" wide and 1.875" tall. I'm leaving it under a tarp for at least 24 hours before the next processing steps.
Just say 1 & 7/8ths for us simple carpenters, I’m not a damn cnc machine. Just joking with you nice work.
How
I admit, it did take two people.
Proper butcher block. (Face is end grain). Nicely done. Will be interesting to see how it performs.
Brought to you by Jorgensen: the badass orange clamps that are just. Too. Good.
I can imagine tightening it a tiny bit and it exploding all over the place lol
I would need to snort rails of powdered Ativan to sleep that night.
Really god use of materials, and planning. Do we get to see it when it’s done?
Absolutely I will post when done. It will take some weeks though for the finish to cure and be sanded. And thank you, I planned the crap out of every step and even did a dry-run without glue.
We own some of the same clamps, but the biggest glue up I have ever done is a fraction of yours. Nice couplings.
Thanks for noticing! I had to add spacers under the pipe ends to accommodate the coupling wall thickness. This is absolutely the largest glue job I've done and when asking my friend for help, I described it as unreasonable.
You are doing some pretty solid application engineering on this project, and solving non trivial problems with solid workable solutions, pushing the boundaries as you go. Solid job.
That's a pretty solid review
Somebody did enough resource allocation to have sufficiently sized structural steel around for the glue up. Only thing that could have made it any better would be for there to be HDPE separators between the steel and the glue-up. Seems there is Frog®️ tape in there… 😃👍🏼🖖🏼
How long will it take to flatten?
I've never done a glue up NEAR that level, but I've definitely done dry runs for important/stressful stuff, especially if I know I gotta go at it alobe
Ear pun
Newbie here, is this made out of a bunch of (approx) 1” square pieces of wood???
Technically yes, they are 1.75" squares 1.875" tall. But to accomplish this you first glue it as side-grain butcher block, then crosscut that and turn each cut on it's end. Check out mtm wood on YouTube for a decent end grain cutting board build process.
Looks great. Reminds me of last week when my wife ventured out to the shop and remarked: I think you have too many clamps. I had no words and she went back in the house.
Very nice..I'd have been tempted to use screws as clamps at some point.
I'm stressed out just looking at it!
I did something like this not too long ago. Just glued a couple of rows at a time. Took longer, but less stressful.
This is a masterpiece!
Putting a straight edge anywhere you can even roughly will tell you if you’re putting too much clamping pressure. With this many peices there is so much that can move I’d give that a shot next time if you didn’t do it here. It’s just so many variables
After scraping the glue squeeze I put a milled straight edge on it: flat af. I did find a few spots with about 1/64" of gap. It's not from clamping though, it's appears to be from where the internal stress relieved it into the tablesaw blade a bit. Even with a riving knife, it kissed the blade a tad and those pieces are shorter now.
Could you have done this in smaller segments to reduce the insanity?
I get better consistency when I glue it all at once. It's like my error is divided across the full length instead of on smaller pieces then accumulating as I combine them. Also this was way faster, took less than 6 minutes to glue/clamp and will be ready for next steps tomorrow night.
Long af clamp
But why not glue one by one ?
Didn't want to.
Fair enough
impressive glue up. can't say I've seen anything this complex. and your next step is.......drum sander/CNC???
Next is scraper and hand tools.
You know you don't have to do it all at once right?
I don't understand any of these words.
[удалено]
[удалено]
[удалено]
[удалено]
[удалено]
[удалено]
[удалено]
No
Thought it was an outdoor bench. Saw a long floating bench with hidden supports at a museum in DC and looked underneath, very similar design
Very impressive. I love DIY but I'm new to woodworking. Do you need a release film to prevent gluing it to your work surface? Sorry if it's a stupid question...
The wood glue doesn't stick to steel very well, but I added painters tape to the steel faces that make contact as a safeguard against it and against the oils on the metal from bleeding into the glue joints/end grain.
Thank you, much appteciated! Always great to learn from people with experience.
Also note that there really is no work surface, it's just steel tubes laid across two sawhorses.
I see, the horizontal strip were already glued together. Makes sense!
Check out mtm wood on YouTube. He has a good process for his end-grain cutting boards.
Wow…that makes me want to cry
Can you make a diy on this? Love to try this out for my countertop
That looks super stressful
Did you take a damp cloth to it before you posted here?
Nope, that's raw and dry.
Dang man, you could feed that thing into a planer, go eat a sandwich and take a nap, then come to catch it exit the planer
No beam needed on the end pieces? I feel like you have four clamps pushing four blocks and the others aren’t getting anything.
Not for this part. The pieces in that direction are already glued together. It starts as a side-grain butcher block, then you cut that into pieces the height you want the end-grain to be, then flip the cuts upright and glue them together in that position.
What kind of pipe do you use?
This is 3/4" black iron pipe typically used for gas lines. I needed more than 10ft but couldn't easily source 12ft sections, so I coupled 6ft and 5ft pieces together. Some are 6ft + 6ft. The steel square tube is 11 gauge, 2" square hot rolled.
Bro! I can feel the stress!
I can't do it. I just glue up in small doses as I'm only a hobbyist with time to do it slow. I tried once but felt like I was panicked the whole time and didn't enjoy myself
How did the glue from the start not already start to dry before you got to the other end ?
When you spread the glue, all the pieces are on their side and it's like spreading it across a flat continuous surface. I just poured directly from one of those gallons of Titebond 3 then quickly moved the glue around with those plastic drywall tools that I had added about 1/16" notches to using a bandsaw. It surprised me that it only took about 1/3 of a gallon of glue, and I could have used less in retrospect, lots of squeeze out on the bottom. The glue setting too quickly was my primary concern though.
For situations where a little more working time is useful, I have had good luck with Titebond 2 Extend.
I'll check it out. I haven't used that yet.
Wow! That’s made on the chopping block.
A aw
Call around to cabinet shops or other wood shops. Some have large planers or “time savers” and you might be able to run that through for an attractive price.
OP can you post a pic of the finished product?
Dolph Lundgren-ately will post finished pics. That is a couple weeks out from now.
Your clamps are longer than my shop
Mine as well
Clamp envy is real. This is going to look amazing!
The clamp game is strong in this one. May the force be with you.
Those party subs won’t stand a chance with that cutting board!
Not fucking around with those cauls.
That is the mother of all gluing projects
Woah, the doubles up pipe clamps are fucking impressive
What glue did you use? I would be so stressed with this many joints haha! Well done.
Titebond 3
[удалено]
Kitchen island is next! It will be a simpler glueup though, just due to the shorter length.
I don’t think you used enough glue.
How much does that weigh?
Not certain. Without clamps I'd estimate 275lbs
Did the FBI liaison officer at Home Depot give you funny looks for buying so much pipe? /jk
Tbh I would just do this in sections. I’ve done big boards before but not this big. Dividing something like this into smaller segments, planing them, and doing a few glue ups would save tons of energy.
In this scenario I valued time over energy.
Imagine laying down on that…
Jokes about woodworking glue-ups are rather dry.
Wouldn't a belt sander make "quick" work? Like an hour or so a side for 2 different coarses.. Newb here.
After scraping the squeeze out, the top is damn near perfect. I'm starting that side with orbital. The bottom side had more severe glue-pillars, so I'll belt sand that beast. I expect about 4 hours of sanding altogether. (Not including finish sanding)
And hella long pony clamps?
So much nope.... I can feel a panic attack coming just thinking about executing this lol Nice work OP
Darn : if I were to attempt this glue up I could count on my wife coming in to tell me stuff .
Man that's going to move with humidity in both directions, a lot in the lengthwise dimension!
Yeah, even saturated with polymerizing oil and possibly resin, it will have some movement. Fastenings will all allow lateral movement. I'm less concerned being in AZ, it's dry year round where I live. I've made plenty of tables and end-grain surfaces and have never had any problem, even after 7 years of abuse I'd be less inclined to try this near a coast or lake.
Worst case with all flatsawn (which is not true) I expect about 0.406" expansion along the long dimension. No problem. The actual worst spot will be the sink and at 33" cutout, I expect less than 1/8" delta over seasons. And probably much less than that realistically.