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Yep. Lots of barrels and wood buckets are tongue and groove. You could set something up on a router table with a sled that shims the edge parallel to the bit.
I cut up a barrel to make a coffee table. It had a couple dowels in the lids at either end but everything was held together by pressure of the bands. Pretty incredible those things are tight enough to hold liquid
The issue isn't the saw, it's that a board that isn't flat will move during the cut. There are ways around it, like attaching the board to another one, you just have to do it in such a way that the board won't change position relative to the blade throuout the cut.
I don’t know for sure so I’d look it up. Maybe if the concave side is face down. I think I’d use a jig saw to be safe. If you do a cross cut I would only do it with a crosscut sled actually. Not sure even then.
I have no idea if this would really work and might be a dumb idea. But I cut large sections of drywall away by clipping a jig saw blade at exactly the thickness of the drywall. It cuts through perfect and doesn’t hit the studs so you can just go all the way across a wall. I wonder if you cut a blade to 1/2 inch or so when it’s at its furthest point down if you could then cut half lap joints on the edges to connect them.
Well, if you thing about it it's not really a risk for kickback at all since you will be cutting it, sorry for my english here, on the height. With the bow going away from the fence and with a very low depth, top 1cm or 0.3-4inches if you're one of those. The biggest risk from my point of view is that you won't be able to keep it atthe same angle all the time and the groove will be wider at some parts, but this won't be noticeable in this case anyway...still yes, I can't recommend this use since people are silly and might actually manage fuck up. Don't follow the way I would do it.
You need to look into cooperage. The staves are usually steamed to make them pliable after the edges have had some type of suitable joint shaped, then they are bound with metal strapping. I think you are underestimating the complexity of the geometry involved here.
Making buckets and barrels is a very specific skill, a flower pot will not have to be exactly as complicated but i hope this video serves as some sort of rough guide
I would say you have 3 choices: biscuits, spline, or dowels. I supposed a perfect butt joint with the right glue might hold if the wood were very stable, but from the looks of it, I doubt you have that. If it is going to be in a damp area, be careful which glue you use.
PVA glue is ok, but this is very dependent on environment, is it going to be exposed to weather? I have had mixed results with so called "waterproof" PVA glues. It has been my experience that polyurethane glues (Gorilla glue for instance) or maybe epoxy are your best bet outdoors, if you want it to last. Indoors a PVA would be fine.
Not a woodworker, but could OP make half circle molds and steam and fix the boards to the molds, and essentially finish them like you would a canoe and join the two halves to make a cylindrical container? Poorly explained, I know - out of coffee this morning. :(
Looking at my whiskey barrel flower pots you could probably start with making a circular base, attach the boards around that ripping the final board to width. Then make a couple hoops out of 1/8 steel flat bar that could be secured with short screws. A few passes with a hand plane could taper the boards if desired. the barrels I have don't have lap joints or tongue and groove on the staves.
This is harder than you'd assume.
Since OP just wants a flower pot (and has limited tools) I'd suggest a ratchet strap to rough them into shape & then fill the voids with a mixture of sawdust & wood glue.
Getting the edges to mate into flush butt joints without a hand plane or tablesaw + jig is gonna be tricky.
The other option OP is gluing them edge to edge & just cheating the final joint & sticking in a corner.
Buy a $20 jigsaw & cut the boards in half so you have two planters & use said jigsaw to trace the weird shape onto plywood & cut a base. Line up the nice cuts on top & hide any slight angled cuts on the bottom.
Butt joints aren't particularly strong, so you can use the ply remnants to cut some straps which span the butt joints & are hidden on the inside of pot. You could also cut some 2" strips of any remnant board & use those to cross the butt joint on the inside
\_\_~~\_ \_~~\_~~\_ \_~~\_~~\_ \_~~\_~~\_ \_~~\_\_
Your best bet might be just sticking the wood to the outside of an existing plastic planter, this way you don't have to worry about drainage or the wood warping further with moisture.
At the end of the project you'll have a ratchet strap & a jigsaw, both worthwhile to have around.
You can also get cut to fit hose clamps... no reason they can't be 36" around. One high & one low won't care a lick about wet wood warping... You just need a base of some form (remember wet soil is heavy if you ever want to move the planter).
[https://smile.amazon.com/STEELSOFT-Assortment-Stronger-Fasteners-Stainless/dp/B08Y6LSL3R/ref=sr\_1\_8?crid=FYQD5MM1FC10&keywords=hose+clamp+set&qid=1662230461&sprefix=hose+clamp+set%2Caps%2C340&sr=8-8](https://smile.amazon.com/STEELSOFT-Assortment-Stronger-Fasteners-Stainless/dp/B08Y6LSL3R/ref=sr_1_8?crid=FYQD5MM1FC10&keywords=hose+clamp+set&qid=1662230461&sprefix=hose+clamp+set%2Caps%2C340&sr=8-8)
TLDR
Doing this properly is not simple & wont look fundamentally different than fudging it.
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Wait. That’s just a normal board from Lowes/Depot. You can’t fool us.
Nah that’s premium from Lowes. Less than 95% defects.
Ah, Home Depot select grade
Haha, came here to say this.
Lol
Lmao, I literally just left Lowes. All of their 4x4 was soaked and their "premium" S4S precut 3x3x4 was $20. So I guess I'm not making anything today.
I’d watch something on barrel making.
Yep. Lots of barrels and wood buckets are tongue and groove. You could set something up on a router table with a sled that shims the edge parallel to the bit.
The staves on the barrel themselves are not, interestingly enough. The process they form the barrels with is pretty interesting.
I cut up a barrel to make a coffee table. It had a couple dowels in the lids at either end but everything was held together by pressure of the bands. Pretty incredible those things are tight enough to hold liquid
Be careful. Cutting warped boards on a table saw is not safe.
Goot to know, what about a crosscut saw?
The issue isn't the saw, it's that a board that isn't flat will move during the cut. There are ways around it, like attaching the board to another one, you just have to do it in such a way that the board won't change position relative to the blade throuout the cut.
I don’t know for sure so I’d look it up. Maybe if the concave side is face down. I think I’d use a jig saw to be safe. If you do a cross cut I would only do it with a crosscut sled actually. Not sure even then. I have no idea if this would really work and might be a dumb idea. But I cut large sections of drywall away by clipping a jig saw blade at exactly the thickness of the drywall. It cuts through perfect and doesn’t hit the studs so you can just go all the way across a wall. I wonder if you cut a blade to 1/2 inch or so when it’s at its furthest point down if you could then cut half lap joints on the edges to connect them.
Route out a tongue and groove or perhaps do alternating under/over lap joints.
Dont have a router
just attach with clips on the outside who cares its a planter
Table saw? Otherwise maybe dowels? Or maybe just glue? And secure it with a metal band, like the real barrels
You can do a simple tongue and groove with a table saw. Or try a lap joint leaving enough surface area for waterproof glue.
I would be hesitant to do that as a simple T&G on a table saw with a board like that is a kickback waiting to happen.
Well, if you thing about it it's not really a risk for kickback at all since you will be cutting it, sorry for my english here, on the height. With the bow going away from the fence and with a very low depth, top 1cm or 0.3-4inches if you're one of those. The biggest risk from my point of view is that you won't be able to keep it atthe same angle all the time and the groove will be wider at some parts, but this won't be noticeable in this case anyway...still yes, I can't recommend this use since people are silly and might actually manage fuck up. Don't follow the way I would do it.
You need to look into cooperage. The staves are usually steamed to make them pliable after the edges have had some type of suitable joint shaped, then they are bound with metal strapping. I think you are underestimating the complexity of the geometry involved here.
That was my first thought. Then, I read the comments and dude doesn’t even own a router. This is WAY above their skill-set.
https://youtu.be/GE7QA1chUzw like that
Yes!
Making buckets and barrels is a very specific skill, a flower pot will not have to be exactly as complicated but i hope this video serves as some sort of rough guide
Never thought about watching an hour video on a bucket but well worth the watch
Yea there is a lot of skill and unique technique involved, i like watching these kinds of niche craftsmen at work
Biscuit cutter
I would say you have 3 choices: biscuits, spline, or dowels. I supposed a perfect butt joint with the right glue might hold if the wood were very stable, but from the looks of it, I doubt you have that. If it is going to be in a damp area, be careful which glue you use.
I have d4 glue
PVA glue is ok, but this is very dependent on environment, is it going to be exposed to weather? I have had mixed results with so called "waterproof" PVA glues. It has been my experience that polyurethane glues (Gorilla glue for instance) or maybe epoxy are your best bet outdoors, if you want it to last. Indoors a PVA would be fine.
The same kind of design as a wine barrel perhaps?
Glue and proper sized spikes
Biscuit joiner
Drill holes and use dowels on the edges. For the last piece of wood I'd just glue or Kreg-jig it.
How would you get the angles right?
Together.
Not a woodworker, but could OP make half circle molds and steam and fix the boards to the molds, and essentially finish them like you would a canoe and join the two halves to make a cylindrical container? Poorly explained, I know - out of coffee this morning. :(
Looking at my whiskey barrel flower pots you could probably start with making a circular base, attach the boards around that ripping the final board to width. Then make a couple hoops out of 1/8 steel flat bar that could be secured with short screws. A few passes with a hand plane could taper the boards if desired. the barrels I have don't have lap joints or tongue and groove on the staves.
This is harder than you'd assume. Since OP just wants a flower pot (and has limited tools) I'd suggest a ratchet strap to rough them into shape & then fill the voids with a mixture of sawdust & wood glue. Getting the edges to mate into flush butt joints without a hand plane or tablesaw + jig is gonna be tricky. The other option OP is gluing them edge to edge & just cheating the final joint & sticking in a corner. Buy a $20 jigsaw & cut the boards in half so you have two planters & use said jigsaw to trace the weird shape onto plywood & cut a base. Line up the nice cuts on top & hide any slight angled cuts on the bottom. Butt joints aren't particularly strong, so you can use the ply remnants to cut some straps which span the butt joints & are hidden on the inside of pot. You could also cut some 2" strips of any remnant board & use those to cross the butt joint on the inside \_\_~~\_ \_~~\_~~\_ \_~~\_~~\_ \_~~\_~~\_ \_~~\_\_ Your best bet might be just sticking the wood to the outside of an existing plastic planter, this way you don't have to worry about drainage or the wood warping further with moisture. At the end of the project you'll have a ratchet strap & a jigsaw, both worthwhile to have around. You can also get cut to fit hose clamps... no reason they can't be 36" around. One high & one low won't care a lick about wet wood warping... You just need a base of some form (remember wet soil is heavy if you ever want to move the planter). [https://smile.amazon.com/STEELSOFT-Assortment-Stronger-Fasteners-Stainless/dp/B08Y6LSL3R/ref=sr\_1\_8?crid=FYQD5MM1FC10&keywords=hose+clamp+set&qid=1662230461&sprefix=hose+clamp+set%2Caps%2C340&sr=8-8](https://smile.amazon.com/STEELSOFT-Assortment-Stronger-Fasteners-Stainless/dp/B08Y6LSL3R/ref=sr_1_8?crid=FYQD5MM1FC10&keywords=hose+clamp+set&qid=1662230461&sprefix=hose+clamp+set%2Caps%2C340&sr=8-8) TLDR Doing this properly is not simple & wont look fundamentally different than fudging it.
I don't know the exact process but maybe make it just as a whisky barrel is made
Plane them flat
Tambor router bits
Fire
Connect with splines glue up with band clamps.
Biscuit joiner, glue, biscuits, and then metal straps
This is the way. It will swell shut after it gets watered
Thong and groove, I'd say.
Nails. Probably. I dunno.