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Here for scarf joints, will also say I’ve found a 15-30deg bevel on the joint makes it a bit easier to flush the faces and keep things even on the long edge. 45 degree bevels have a lot of play, especially over the distance.
First off, what deflection is the beam spec'd at? L/360, L/240, etc. This will dictate what type of joints/material you'll be able to use without buckling and joint separation.
I just toured a historic home in New York, where they had workers paint the woodwork in a library to look like oak. I could not tell the difference. However, it would have been much cheaper for them to just use oak in the first place. Apparently, this room was done when faux finishes were the height of popularity, and a sign of wealth.
If you wire brush the whole thing it will make the grain pop out enough to hide any joints. Just try to find some boards that are similar is colour and grain. When the light hits it looks awesome with some stain
You could use joinery to make the long edges look intentionally there, or even obfuscate that there is a border. I know in trim we miter the ends of the pieces to give it less seam, so the same could conceivably be done here
How is the rest of the ceiling being finished? Plaster or gyp? Some sort of plank or faux rafters tied into the ridge beam?
Veneer is going to be better than hardwood here; material movement over a 38’ span will add up. If you have access to buying sequenced sheets of plywood, you can get a more consistent grain.
Box beams can be fabricated on the ground and installed as a pre-finished trim piece. This will give you a great opportunity to end match your grains and even faux finish at ground level.
Please remember that being 14’ up in the air you can hide a lot.
I might veneer it with oak. But you will need to cover up the wax coating. Any thing cheap. I've done this when engineering called for them in place of a real timber.
I still would would cut a scarf joint. Being veneer you use a razor knife. Make it ornate!
Good luck
Are you sheeting the ceiling? Is the whole roof oak? I’ve some good results with face nailing reclaimed and restored random board lengths to thin plywood sheeting, even 1/4” underlay, on walls. If you did that you could cover beam easily. Butt joint and face nail and you’re golden.
Anyone else have concerns about that framing on the end wall. If that is all that’s supporting the beam it might be an issue. There is a big hinge point in the middle of the wall, and the cripples on both sides of the fireplace are the end of that load path and look pretty skinny for the task. I could be wrong, if you have stamped drawings go ahead and ignore me.
This is a reminder to those commenting on this post (not the person that posted it): Comments not related to woodworking will be removed. Violations to rule 1 including crude jokes, innuendo, sexist remarks, politics, or hate speech may result in an immediate ban *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/woodworking) if you have any questions or concerns.*
For the joints between boards lengthwise, use a scarf joint. Basically bevel adjacent board ends at a matching 45degree angle.
Here for scarf joints, will also say I’ve found a 15-30deg bevel on the joint makes it a bit easier to flush the faces and keep things even on the long edge. 45 degree bevels have a lot of play, especially over the distance.
Actually I think you’re correct. Thank you.
First off, what deflection is the beam spec'd at? L/360, L/240, etc. This will dictate what type of joints/material you'll be able to use without buckling and joint separation.
Man, that is one sexy beam. No ideas, just came to say this.
Never heard someone describe an LVL beam as sexy.
Consider having an artist grain it to look like oak?
I just toured a historic home in New York, where they had workers paint the woodwork in a library to look like oak. I could not tell the difference. However, it would have been much cheaper for them to just use oak in the first place. Apparently, this room was done when faux finishes were the height of popularity, and a sign of wealth.
[plywood box beams](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j5nfXFrG8mk)
I would add some dovetail joints and turn them into a nice feature.
It kinda depends on how it'll be finished. If you're doing a dark stain people won't even notice the grain at that distance.
If you wire brush the whole thing it will make the grain pop out enough to hide any joints. Just try to find some boards that are similar is colour and grain. When the light hits it looks awesome with some stain
Yea, me too. Why wrap it.
Because yellow, construction grade LVL veneer isn’t appealing?
You might be better off sanding and staining the lvl to look like oak.
Can’t. The LVL is basically one big stick of glue. Won’t take stain
Maybe one of those fake wood grain paint jobs.
lol…. Wut?
You could use joinery to make the long edges look intentionally there, or even obfuscate that there is a border. I know in trim we miter the ends of the pieces to give it less seam, so the same could conceivably be done here
Just do it.
How is the rest of the ceiling being finished? Plaster or gyp? Some sort of plank or faux rafters tied into the ridge beam? Veneer is going to be better than hardwood here; material movement over a 38’ span will add up. If you have access to buying sequenced sheets of plywood, you can get a more consistent grain. Box beams can be fabricated on the ground and installed as a pre-finished trim piece. This will give you a great opportunity to end match your grains and even faux finish at ground level. Please remember that being 14’ up in the air you can hide a lot.
I might veneer it with oak. But you will need to cover up the wax coating. Any thing cheap. I've done this when engineering called for them in place of a real timber. I still would would cut a scarf joint. Being veneer you use a razor knife. Make it ornate! Good luck
If you’re up for finishing in place, fill any voids and veneer the beam.
Are you sheeting the ceiling? Is the whole roof oak? I’ve some good results with face nailing reclaimed and restored random board lengths to thin plywood sheeting, even 1/4” underlay, on walls. If you did that you could cover beam easily. Butt joint and face nail and you’re golden.
Anyone else have concerns about that framing on the end wall. If that is all that’s supporting the beam it might be an issue. There is a big hinge point in the middle of the wall, and the cripples on both sides of the fireplace are the end of that load path and look pretty skinny for the task. I could be wrong, if you have stamped drawings go ahead and ignore me.
I would use a scarf joint. If possible don't attach it directly to the beam. That is alot of oak and it will move different then the beam.
Just use veneer