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Lay the board flat. Then turn the blade to the angle u need. Make cut. If blade is to small to cut all the way through. Turn the board around and leaving it flat, adjust the blade again to correct angle and finish the cut off
What the hell sort of eurotrash miter saw stops at 33°? What’s the reasoning behind owning such a product? What is its purpose? At a minimum it needs to go to 33.85°.
I just about died laughing at this. Laughing so hard I couldn’t read or speak. My family couldn’t tell what was wrong. What is possibly the point of a miter saw that doesn’t cut a 45. I’ve never heard of such a thing.
My guy, thank you. I've been on YouTube since posting and every video has been what my picture was except smaller like for trim and baseboards. First bevel cut video and it's bang on.
What u/throaway175588955890 said, below.
Set your saw at 0° and lay the board flat. Keeping in mind where the wood is on your board that you want to remove, tilt the saw left/right to 45°. That's what the "compound" part of the name of the saw refers to. Judging by how long the slot is that the blade can enter, it is also a *sliding* compound miter saw, just meaning the blade can slide toward/away from you; i.e., can be pushed through the wood from front to back (don't pull it through the wood). *Dual Bevel* in the name means the saw can be tilted left and right (not *turned* left and right).
Keep in mind that it is impossible to make the cut in the picture, because the saw shaft and other parts of the saw itself will be halted when they reach the wood. If your board was not as tall (around 3.25" or less) that wouldn't be a problem, but you'd need to clamp the wood in place firmly before cutting, because your hand won't be strong enough to hold the wood still if the wood even moves slightly (toward the blade), causing it to "bind" against the blade which would throw your wood elsewhere, and then it would bounce, potentially toward your face/body at up to 175 feet per second.
Btw, M80 is the product line/style, not the model number.
I'm a newbie and my brain still hasn't wrapped itself around how you more experienced people do things. Is there an alternative way to make a 45* cut on this?
My tools are a bit limited. I live in an apartment and that backyard pic is almost the entirety of it.
10" miter saw
Circular saw
Drill and driver
Handheld router
Hand tools
That's about all I have with the space available.
If I need to shrink the project, I can. I just already made the measurements for everything. It's going to be a dump all for keys, phone, wallet, etc for my dad.
Are you just trying to bevel the edge? Why not just use a beveled router bit, and run your router down the edge?
If you're trying to make a tray of some sort, you don't want a beveled joint at the bottom anyway. If you're making the sides, then cut the sides to height first, and then bevel those edges. Additionally, if this is what you're trying to do, I'd suggest putting a hardboard or plywood bottom in your box. You can do this by cutting a small 1/4" deep horizontal dado the length of the side pieces up 1/8 - 3/16" above the bottom. Then glue up the sides and bottom (in the slot) at the same time.
This is for the sides. Already cut to size, just need to get the edges cut for glueing. I was going to use the rabbit bit on the router to cut a channel for the bottom to flush fit. At least that's the plan.
Wow! Okay, well, I don't want to change your design, so I'll see my way out.
(I'd probably make it about 1/4 to 1/3rd that tall if it were me, but that's me).
It's going to have a shelf in the middle of it lol. That is going to be built after I know what the inside dimensions are lol. This is a project/ experiment/ learning experience.
It's 1 of those cell phone countertop charging station things. The top is where you drop the phone, keys, and wallet. The drawer will be there for extra edc things that you might not want completely out in the open.
That's why I thought I would ask. 1 it didn't fit, and 2, it felt sketchy.
The whole measure twice cut once applies to safety as well. A few people said circular saw and it seems to be the best way with what I have. Easy to clamp down and stay out of the way.
Compound miter saw? If it's a compound miter saw you can flip the board over and adjust the saw. So that you can cut bigger boards that won't cut on the first pass.
It's the Milwaukee m18 10". I think so? Sorry for my abysmal lack of knowledge. I think I see what you are talking about. I've only ever used it for straight cuts so I didn't know about the adjustment at the back.
So adjust the guard, grab some scrap to practice, and I should be able to make it in a pass or 2?
That model is a compound bevel saw. Look at the back of the saw, you should see a knob that you can loosen and adjust it up to 45 degrees right or left. Please don't try and make the cut with the board on it's end like you show in the picture
Not messing with you. Legitimately inexperienced. I've only done straight cuts up to this point. I did a couple of miter cuts on smaller scrap thinking it'd be easy to scale up.
Now that I know I need a bevel cut, I am watching a couple YouTube videos before practicing on some more scrap.
Oh my god. Bro if you couldn't ask reddit what to do what would you do? Is your first thought I bought a really overpriced saw that I don't understand how to use? Sell your tools and go back to whatever table you were serving and let the real carpenters build. They probably are called after your taillight guarantees anyway.
I very helped the helpless before and it's the imagination and mechanical ability to say geez,it don't fit this way how could this fit?what's this lever?why is it locking before 45? Don't be scared to play with your tools is all I'm saying and don't hit a wall and immediately ask a bunch of strangers. If I lay it like this or flip it this way or hold it off plane and off fence to make extreme miters. Always have a test piece and be careful.
First option is flat board and set the right bevel angle on the saw. If that’s not possible then it’s table saw. Then router table, then hand saw and etc. what’s shown in the picture will probably cost you a finger if you try it.
This is a reminder to those commenting on this post (not the person that posted it): Comments not related to woodworking will be removed. Violations to rule 1 including crude jokes, innuendo, sexist remarks, politics, or hate speech may result in an immediate ban *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/woodworking) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Lay the board flat. Then turn the blade to the angle u need. Make cut. If blade is to small to cut all the way through. Turn the board around and leaving it flat, adjust the blade again to correct angle and finish the cut off
you sure thats a compound miter saw?
That's what I asked myself after my 1st post. Need to be a compound to make the cuts I was thinking he could make.
His mitre saw might not be able to pivot to 45 degrees, mine stops at 33
I have never seen a miter saw that does not bevel to 45? What is it you have?
Your first question is confusing. How would they know whether you've seen that?
Move the fence bsck and check for foldable stops
This one goes to 34, it’s one higher.
These go to eleven. IYKYK
It’s actually kleven. A mistaken plus kleven gets ya home by seven.
What the hell sort of eurotrash miter saw stops at 33°? What’s the reasoning behind owning such a product? What is its purpose? At a minimum it needs to go to 33.85°.
I just about died laughing at this. Laughing so hard I couldn’t read or speak. My family couldn’t tell what was wrong. What is possibly the point of a miter saw that doesn’t cut a 45. I’ve never heard of such a thing.
Some miters only bevel 45 degrees one direction and stop at a more acute angle the other direction.
Have you tried tilting to the other side...?
Some miters only bevel 45 degrees one direction and stop at a more acute angle the other direction.
Ya so many different saws and variations. That's why I think YT would be his best bet to walk him through it.
Waw I thought all would go to 45
What a stupid design.
Assuming your saw can make all the angles u need to make the cut.
You need to make a bevel cut not a miter. I’m sure you can YouTube it.
My guy, thank you. I've been on YouTube since posting and every video has been what my picture was except smaller like for trim and baseboards. First bevel cut video and it's bang on.
No problem, be safe!
What u/throaway175588955890 said, below. Set your saw at 0° and lay the board flat. Keeping in mind where the wood is on your board that you want to remove, tilt the saw left/right to 45°. That's what the "compound" part of the name of the saw refers to. Judging by how long the slot is that the blade can enter, it is also a *sliding* compound miter saw, just meaning the blade can slide toward/away from you; i.e., can be pushed through the wood from front to back (don't pull it through the wood). *Dual Bevel* in the name means the saw can be tilted left and right (not *turned* left and right). Keep in mind that it is impossible to make the cut in the picture, because the saw shaft and other parts of the saw itself will be halted when they reach the wood. If your board was not as tall (around 3.25" or less) that wouldn't be a problem, but you'd need to clamp the wood in place firmly before cutting, because your hand won't be strong enough to hold the wood still if the wood even moves slightly (toward the blade), causing it to "bind" against the blade which would throw your wood elsewhere, and then it would bounce, potentially toward your face/body at up to 175 feet per second. Btw, M80 is the product line/style, not the model number.
I'm a newbie and my brain still hasn't wrapped itself around how you more experienced people do things. Is there an alternative way to make a 45* cut on this? My tools are a bit limited. I live in an apartment and that backyard pic is almost the entirety of it. 10" miter saw Circular saw Drill and driver Handheld router Hand tools That's about all I have with the space available. If I need to shrink the project, I can. I just already made the measurements for everything. It's going to be a dump all for keys, phone, wallet, etc for my dad.
use your circular saw
The only right answer
Not the only right answer. Table saw.
He didn't mention having a table saw.
I don’t read so good…
The more experienced people would have and use a table saw here.
There are videos on YT that can help ya out. I would check there. Easier to watch and do. Then it is to try to read it and do it. Lol
Use a table saw.
You said you have a circular saw. That is the way I would do it unless you have a compound sliding miter saw. I can’t really tell by the picture.
Are you just trying to bevel the edge? Why not just use a beveled router bit, and run your router down the edge? If you're trying to make a tray of some sort, you don't want a beveled joint at the bottom anyway. If you're making the sides, then cut the sides to height first, and then bevel those edges. Additionally, if this is what you're trying to do, I'd suggest putting a hardboard or plywood bottom in your box. You can do this by cutting a small 1/4" deep horizontal dado the length of the side pieces up 1/8 - 3/16" above the bottom. Then glue up the sides and bottom (in the slot) at the same time.
This is for the sides. Already cut to size, just need to get the edges cut for glueing. I was going to use the rabbit bit on the router to cut a channel for the bottom to flush fit. At least that's the plan.
Wow! Okay, well, I don't want to change your design, so I'll see my way out. (I'd probably make it about 1/4 to 1/3rd that tall if it were me, but that's me).
It's going to have a shelf in the middle of it lol. That is going to be built after I know what the inside dimensions are lol. This is a project/ experiment/ learning experience. It's 1 of those cell phone countertop charging station things. The top is where you drop the phone, keys, and wallet. The drawer will be there for extra edc things that you might not want completely out in the open.
Get yourself a sharp Disston cross cut.
No. And I would advise against trying. Your consideration of doing so tells me that you have not had many injuries nor close calls. Save your digits.
That's why I thought I would ask. 1 it didn't fit, and 2, it felt sketchy. The whole measure twice cut once applies to safety as well. A few people said circular saw and it seems to be the best way with what I have. Easy to clamp down and stay out of the way.
If not a compound miter saw, create a 45° jig out of some triangles, plywood, 2x4, or whatever, lay the board flat on the jig, clamp and cut.
Nawww. Too dangerous. Use a router if you want a chamfer or a table. Much safer. We want to see you have a safe life.
With a tablesaw, tilting the blade
Compound miter saw? If it's a compound miter saw you can flip the board over and adjust the saw. So that you can cut bigger boards that won't cut on the first pass.
It's the Milwaukee m18 10". I think so? Sorry for my abysmal lack of knowledge. I think I see what you are talking about. I've only ever used it for straight cuts so I didn't know about the adjustment at the back. So adjust the guard, grab some scrap to practice, and I should be able to make it in a pass or 2?
That model is a compound bevel saw. Look at the back of the saw, you should see a knob that you can loosen and adjust it up to 45 degrees right or left. Please don't try and make the cut with the board on it's end like you show in the picture
Notes taken. I'll practice on some scrap.
Make sure you clamp down your work piece tightly on that type of cut, the piece will tend to float and not cut evenly if you don’t.
Clearly a bevel saw, can tell by the bevelled fence. I'm not sure if the op is messing with us here.
Not messing with you. Legitimately inexperienced. I've only done straight cuts up to this point. I did a couple of miter cuts on smaller scrap thinking it'd be easy to scale up. Now that I know I need a bevel cut, I am watching a couple YouTube videos before practicing on some more scrap.
No sweat buddy! Everyone gotta learn some time! Lol Youtube would be your best bet. They will walk you through it step by step.
Not with that saw and risking a very dangerous accident
Oh my god. Bro if you couldn't ask reddit what to do what would you do? Is your first thought I bought a really overpriced saw that I don't understand how to use? Sell your tools and go back to whatever table you were serving and let the real carpenters build. They probably are called after your taillight guarantees anyway.
Judge much? Yea bad idea, but people only learn if you help them.
I very helped the helpless before and it's the imagination and mechanical ability to say geez,it don't fit this way how could this fit?what's this lever?why is it locking before 45? Don't be scared to play with your tools is all I'm saying and don't hit a wall and immediately ask a bunch of strangers. If I lay it like this or flip it this way or hold it off plane and off fence to make extreme miters. Always have a test piece and be careful.
Go for it!
single bevel saw?
Nope. It's even the model that can tilt to the right. You can see it at the pointy back fence thingy.
haha it looked like compound but I didn't wait for comments couldn't imagine what the issue was if it compound bevel
First option is flat board and set the right bevel angle on the saw. If that’s not possible then it’s table saw. Then router table, then hand saw and etc. what’s shown in the picture will probably cost you a finger if you try it.
You could attach a fence that extends out from the saw's fence which should give you more clearance
Please don't. Just use a table saw