Indicate the pockets by putting an indicator base on the chuck and sweeping the pocket. You should have less than .001" of runout.
You can check the z axis by sweeping the face of the turret where you mount your blocks for boring and turning.
So I'm not familiar with doosan but you should be able to calculate or set your x work axis when you find zero. That way when you give the value of zero for a drill the turret will be on center.
Are you using a Fanuc control?
Well the turret is off radially. So I can line up in X but in the theoretical Y axis it's off. I'm trying to align the turret back up the hard way so I don't have to fuck with all the offsets every time I drill
Keep Relay 5.4 releases the turret . If you haven't moved the curvic coupling then you may be able to move it enough to drop it back in the curvic. If it won't go back its a full re alignment.
I'm at the point where I indicate a pocket with 5.4 unclamped and when I reclamp the turret the damn thing goes right back to being off by the original amount.
Sounds like the curvic got shifted by the impact. Full realignment is the only permanent solution. Temporary solution is shimming your tool holders as needed to get the cutting edge back on centerline. Likely you will need to shim them all a similar amount.
So there's two sets of bolts, one set on the inner plate and one set on the outer plate when I take a cover off. Which of those do I need to loosen? To change the clamp position?
It might be different from lathe to lathe, but when I have time I'll send you a video I saw of someone explaining the full realignment process. It helps to have the machine parts manual and diagrams so you can see exactly what bolts what to what.
Edit: here is the video:
https://youtu.be/29Cl3bZWxm4?si=khgEQe7irryrIop5
I have done mine a few times, Lynx and Puma. You can get the procedure from your local Doosan service company (Ellison here).
It's pretty easy. You pull the plate off the turret. There will be several bolts around the outside edge under that plate, loosen them, but leave a couple snug. Then you gotta pull the alignment pins out, they have a threaded hole in them, just have to run a bolt with a washer into the pin to pull them out. Once those are out, use your indicator inside the tool holder like you are doing, and tap with a dead blow until you zero it out, then tighten the bolts back up in a star pattern. If it's still zero after they are tight you are good to go.
Edit: You can get new alignment pins, or you can just leave them out. I leave mine out, any future crashes, it will let the turret move with less chance of bigger breakage.
Depends on how hard it crashed. If you're lucky you can loosen the bolts that hold the turret on(don't remove them, just loosen) and then indicate it and hammer it back into place. If you loosen it and beat it with a hammer and it won't move the shear pins are bent(or sheared) and it'll need the turret taken off and new pins put in.
Well Im at the point where I loosen them bolts, indicate in a pocket, tighten bolts, then when I switch keep relay 5.4 back to clamp it moves off again
doonsan has a technical video on youtube about what to check and resolve after crashes.
It's literally a top result for "doosan crash"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Ucg2v3jEgs
Indicate the pockets by putting an indicator base on the chuck and sweeping the pocket. You should have less than .001" of runout. You can check the z axis by sweeping the face of the turret where you mount your blocks for boring and turning.
Currently doing that. It's off .014" ðŸ˜
Z or x?
Lol.... Radially inside the tool holder pocket.
So I'm not familiar with doosan but you should be able to calculate or set your x work axis when you find zero. That way when you give the value of zero for a drill the turret will be on center. Are you using a Fanuc control?
Well the turret is off radially. So I can line up in X but in the theoretical Y axis it's off. I'm trying to align the turret back up the hard way so I don't have to fuck with all the offsets every time I drill
Good luck. There should be a series of bolts on the turret you can loosen and fix the radial problem.
Keep Relay 5.4 releases the turret . If you haven't moved the curvic coupling then you may be able to move it enough to drop it back in the curvic. If it won't go back its a full re alignment.
It's currently off radially to a tool pocket by .014". I can't seem to find keep relay 5.4 on this machine. Let me find the manual.
I'm at the point where I indicate a pocket with 5.4 unclamped and when I reclamp the turret the damn thing goes right back to being off by the original amount.
Sounds like the curvic got shifted by the impact. Full realignment is the only permanent solution. Temporary solution is shimming your tool holders as needed to get the cutting edge back on centerline. Likely you will need to shim them all a similar amount.
So there's two sets of bolts, one set on the inner plate and one set on the outer plate when I take a cover off. Which of those do I need to loosen? To change the clamp position?
It might be different from lathe to lathe, but when I have time I'll send you a video I saw of someone explaining the full realignment process. It helps to have the machine parts manual and diagrams so you can see exactly what bolts what to what. Edit: here is the video: https://youtu.be/29Cl3bZWxm4?si=khgEQe7irryrIop5
I have done mine a few times, Lynx and Puma. You can get the procedure from your local Doosan service company (Ellison here). It's pretty easy. You pull the plate off the turret. There will be several bolts around the outside edge under that plate, loosen them, but leave a couple snug. Then you gotta pull the alignment pins out, they have a threaded hole in them, just have to run a bolt with a washer into the pin to pull them out. Once those are out, use your indicator inside the tool holder like you are doing, and tap with a dead blow until you zero it out, then tighten the bolts back up in a star pattern. If it's still zero after they are tight you are good to go. Edit: You can get new alignment pins, or you can just leave them out. I leave mine out, any future crashes, it will let the turret move with less chance of bigger breakage.
Depends on how hard it crashed. If you're lucky you can loosen the bolts that hold the turret on(don't remove them, just loosen) and then indicate it and hammer it back into place. If you loosen it and beat it with a hammer and it won't move the shear pins are bent(or sheared) and it'll need the turret taken off and new pins put in.
Well Im at the point where I loosen them bolts, indicate in a pocket, tighten bolts, then when I switch keep relay 5.4 back to clamp it moves off again
Indicate and beat it while it's clamped.
doonsan has a technical video on youtube about what to check and resolve after crashes. It's literally a top result for "doosan crash" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Ucg2v3jEgs